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Callaway Muscleback irons


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Hi, for all you equipment experts out there...

So I am about a 2-3 handicap on a 7100Y course I haven't been entering scores but that's about what I play to, 16 yrs old 140 lbs 5'8. I have always hit the ball fairly high so I am not the best wind player but that is ok with me. I don't know my CHS but I fly the ball around 280 off the tee at 4500 feet elevation. All of my clubs now are Titleist except 60 degree wedge and putter. My driver is 910 D2 9.5 set to 8.75 w/ Aldila RIP 60 Stiff shaft. My question actually isn't just about irons it is also my fairway wood. I think it is an f06 titleist except it has a Regular flex shaft and 17 degrees of loft. I like the extra bit of loft as it is easier to get up in the air, however, many of my mishits with it are a strong hook. Shold I worry abut a new shaft for it or leave it? Now to irons, Titleist AP1's I have had em for 4 years they are 4-PW with a standard regular flex shaft, I hit the 7 iron from about 185, they are cut down half an inch which I have actually grown to like. Now I demoed the Musclebacks on a demo day but I only got to hit like 3 6-irons and a couple 4 irons on the range. The thing is, I know callaway seems all hellbent that those irons are for only the best of best players, but I pured 2 of the 6-iron shots about 200 yards and I love the feel, the other one was a bit thin but I could work with it, I hit the 4-iron good too, now I probably wouldn't play with anything longer than a 5 iron of those clubs in my bag because if phil doesn't no way I could. My current clubs are pretty beat up and need to be regripped, I am wondering when/how much I should sell the set for or if I should trade em in, I could probably even wait till winter to buy them if they wold be cheaper. The other thing too, I want my irons to have a 3 iron, I don't mind my hybrid but I definately prefer hitting an iron. I was thinking to go 5-PW in the muscleback w/ 6.5 project X shafts cut down 1/4 or 1/2 inch, then 3 and 4 iron X forged same shaft. I can say this, the kids I play with who have blades/musclebacks hit the ball very well... and I heard from both of them that their ballstriking went up after adjusting to the new "hard to hit" irons.

Thank you!

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Guestimated single digit index?  - check

Age, height and weight listed?  - check

280 yard carry?  - check

Plays different flexes throughout set?  - check

185 yard 7 iron, regular flex?   - check

Makes comparison to professional golfer after puring a couple of shots with blade?  - check

Old clubs beat up, need a change?  - check

Prefers irons over hybrids?  - check

Change lengths?  - check

Mixed set of irons?  - check

How much to sell my clubs for?  - check

Blades make a better ballstriker?  - check

Other people are doing, why shouldn't I?  - check

LOL, sorry to poke fun, but I think you may have touched on every hot topic that is currently asked/posted about here.  No harm meant, just an observation.

Honestly, if you think you are ready to progress to a muscleback/blade iron, just do it.  My HC isn't near as low as yours, and I found it to be an easy transition, but then again, most of my problems (and most still are) stem from issues with the start/finish of the holes, not the in between.  That extra little bit of concentration you may perceive to be necessary when addressing the ball helped me to control my swing a little better by focusing more on contact than trying to knock the snot out of it.  Those Razr X musclebacks are supposed to be pretty forgiving, from what I have read.

You'll get more cash by selling your clubs than you will get for a trade, usually.  I have sold clubs for more than four times the "estimated" trade in value.  Many places will only give you trade value plus 10%.

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"2-3 handicap on a 7100Y course I haven't been entering scores but that's about what I play to, 16 yrs old 140 lbs 5'8."

I am not going to mock this post. Start entering scores. No gimmes, no leather wedges, no "I would have made that except"  etc and then repost the data.

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mopar,

I hope you know it wasn't intentional. The idea of this thread was to get some opinions from people who know about clubs and club fitting advise me so I could have some insight on what I have picked out for a set of irons shaft/length combo etc. My average tournament score this year is around 75 if you drop two horrible days and I leave a lot on the putting greens. instead of going through a checklist of what I posted give some insight on what you think of all those things. Tell me, when is the best time to buy new clubs? I haven't done so in a while...Wait till next spring? Maybe around January mid winter? Why would I come here and lie about my scores so people on the internet think higher of me who don't even know who I am?>?

Jon,

Same thing, I haven't had a single situation this year where I needed my handicap except the number to sign up for a usga tourney. I don't take any foot wedges or any of that. Honestly Jon I don't care how good you think don't think I am I am giving you info about my game so you can give your opinion based on the info. No need to be competitive "he's better than him" on an internet forum maybe not but that kind of seems to be, " Start entering scores. No gimmes, no leather wedges, no "I would have made that except"  etc and then repost the data. "...

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Originally Posted by Backspinalot

mopar,

I hope you know it wasn't intentional. The idea of this thread was to get some opinions from people who know about clubs and club fitting advise me so I could have some insight on what I have picked out for a set of irons shaft/length combo etc. My average tournament score this year is around 75 if you drop two horrible days and I leave a lot on the putting greens. instead of going through a checklist of what I posted give some insight on what you think of all those things. Tell me, when is the best time to buy new clubs? I haven't done so in a while...Wait till next spring? Maybe around January mid winter? Why would I come here and lie about my scores so people on the internet think higher of me who don't even know who I am?>?

Like i said, it was just an observation, because there is a lot of info there that can be touched on, that doesn't pertain to buying irons....  Nobody here can tell you if you can/can't hit the specific irons you are looking at, nobody.  Your best bet would be to get on a launch monitor or a range, and take them for a real test drive.  If you want to hear that you should buy them based on your shaft length, a mix of shaft flexes and the fact that you friends play blades well.....Then yes, go buy them.  Do it now!  Go, I said!  Have them yet? Buy them at 2 degrees up and plus 7/8" on the length, then you can sell them to me for cheap if you decide they are no good.

Usually you will find some good deals in both the fall and early spring, depending on your location.  Golf is a seasonal sport here in Canada (except for parts of BC, those bastards!), so retailers are looking to push last years junk off the shelves late fall/early spring.  Current models will stay relatively priced the same though.

As for:

"Jon,

Same thing, I haven't had a single situation this year where I needed my handicap except the number to sign up for a usga tourney."

Don't USGA tourneys require a certified USGA Handicap Index?

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Backspinalot,

You're 16 and may not have encountered the legion of "get a D*&nN; handicap" guys. You will. So, get a handicap. Costs a few bucks for a real one but at your level you should have one. Then there are no excuses when you kick some guy's butt after giving him ten strokes. You will know you have a 100% legit handicap and he can gripe all he wants.

Are you still getting taller? You will likely get bigger. So, consider that any clubs that fit you today may not fit you in two years. How often do you want, and can you afford, to change out your clubs?

My advise would be to get a fitting for length and lie and shaft flex. Consider getting your current heads bent for lie and re-shafted. Or get new heads too if you wish. When you do, consider that those new heads may need new shafts if you get taller, stronger.. older.  Beware of PX flexes since they run very stiff. 6.5 is crazy stiff. Search here and you'll find good info about that. You are playing well with regular flex shafts. Be careful about making such a huge leap up the stiffness scale.

You play at altitude and play a long course -- even with the altitude bump. Many of us have no idea how that translates for distances we think of so be aware that your distance sharing may bring skepticism. 280 carry sounds really long until you factor 4500 feet and then, who knows.

Keep us updated on your progress.

Russ - Student of the Moe Norman swing as taught by the pros at - http://moenormangolf.com

Titleist 910 D3 8.5* w/ Project X shaft/ Titleist 910F 15* w/ Project X shaft

Cobra Baffler 20* & 23* hybrids with Accra hybrid shafts

Mizuno MP-53 irons 5Iron-PW AeroTech i95 shafts stiff and soft stepped once/Mizuno MP T-11 50.6/56.10/MP T10 60*

Seemore PCB putter with SuperStroke 3.0

Srixon 2012 Z-Star yellow balls/ Iomic Sticky 2.3, X-Evolution grips/Titleist Lightweight Cart Bag---

extra/alternate clubs: Mizunos JPX-800 Pro 5-GW with Project X 5.0 soft-stepped shafts

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Originally Posted by moparman426

Like i said, it was just an observation, because there is a lot of info there that can be touched on, that doesn't pertain to buying irons....  Nobody here can tell you if you can/can't hit the specific irons you are looking at, nobody.  Your best bet would be to get on a launch monitor or a range, and take them for a real test drive.  If you want to hear that you should buy them based on your shaft length, a mix of shaft flexes and the fact that you friends play blades well.....Then yes, go buy them.  Do it now!  Go, I said!  Have them yet? Buy them at 2 degrees up and plus 7/8" on the length, then you can sell them to me for cheap if you decide they are no good.

Usually you will find some good deals in both the fall and early spring, depending on your location.  Golf is a seasonal sport here in Canada (except for parts of BC, those bastards!), so retailers are looking to push last years junk off the shelves late fall/early spring.  Current models will stay relatively priced the same though.

As for:

"Jon,

Same thing, I haven't had a single situation this year where I needed my handicap except the number to sign up for a usga tourney."

Don't USGA tourneys require a certified USGA Handicap Index?

Ugh um - You don't just throw a number at a guy sitting at a table and sign up for a USGA tourney.

a Oh yeah there bud I want to sign up for this tourney.

b What is your CURRENT certifiable handicap? And proof of it

a Oh I didn't keep scores but it is about 2-3

b Yeah right, NEXT contestant!

The post sounds like it was written from experiences of  a 30 year old pro/am level golfer not a bunch of kids in mid high school. Heck 16 year old kids can't even play well the oldest game in the world much less the hardest game in the world. (oldest is getting the girls to notice)

I always get a kick out of the posts where the guy can differentiate 1/10th of a degree difference in ball flight but then asks if he should buy the new regular shaft or the stiff shaft? What do you random, anonymous people on a forum that may know nothing at all about golf say I should do?  But keep in mind that my ball flight is 1/10th of  a degree higher when I am wearing a hat   So should I buy regular or stiff?

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Ok well I haven't had the best feedback yet!

Jon , I am beyond confused, are you saying I sound like a 30 yr old pro/am golfer or are you talking about mopar? A "bunch" of kids in mid-highschool? "Heck, 16 yr olds can't even play the game well" I may be interpetting wrong but it seems to me like you don't get out much....

And since you're so curious about how I entered the usga tourney, I doubt you've ever signed up for one, on usga for the us junior am qualifier in utah you give the 6-digit I think it is number of your handicap so they can verify if they wish, I doubt as they are going through the online entries they will go to my index page and see "oh well he hasn't entered a score in a while, let's look into this!" call the pro at my GC and ask...pfff... needless to say I played in the tourney. I made the post hoping there were a few people on here who know about club fitting, shafts, etc. could maybe get me pointed in the right direction for stiffness, length etc. The original post was directed to someone who knows something and can share what they know based on my "specs". Not someone to tell me whether I should post scores and tellin me my handicap is horse sh*t...

mopar,

I already have an idea of what I want for irons (mind the pun) I am probably going to grow a touch but in the last 4 years of owning my ap1 irons I have grown tremendously, I would dare say the length of my irons  is aound where I want my next set! That is why I said 1/4 inch off. I would just like to figure out what stiffness I should be looking at or if it isn't something worth looking at too hard. I will likely get standard lie, I am not very short or very tall and that is what I have grown up with. I don't know where you got 7/8 inch add to standard. I will look around though see what I can come up with in the next bit.

rusty,

flying the ball 280 at 4500 feet is about 260 at sea level give or take, just a guess. I hit the ball far for my size though I do take the club past parralel. I qestion since I may likely need X stiff in the driver next year if the regular shafts in my irons may be at all affecting anything? I don't want to get caught up in the whole equipment changes everything deal, just a question.

Thanks

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Backspinalot,

You are at a point where you would benefit greatly from a dynamic club fitting -- one where you hit balls, use a launch monitor, maybe even hit some outside so your fitter can judge ball flight beyond the numbers. My instructors say that a $5 set of clubs that fit you are better than a $5000 set that do not.

Your shaft will be selected based on swing speed, tempo, load, launch angles, backspin, ball speed... and more. Even an average fitting at a big box store like Golfsmith is better than guessing. Go somewhere with a Mizuno Shaft Optimizer to help narrow things down.

When it comes to new clubs, the most important distance in your golf game is not your current 280 yard driver carry distance. It is the 8 inches between your ears. Getting a good fitting can help you have confidence that your clubs fit you. And when your clubs fit you, you give yourself every chance to play better. Getting new clubs always helps us all (even the high cappers like myself) think that we are going to play better. Believing is a big first step toward doing.

BTW, as for recommendations, check my signature. Mizuno has some clubs made for player like you. (I think of myself as more KinderMizuno.) And I love my Project X shafts. Don't be afraid to check out lighter weight steel too. And KBS has some super offerings for better players. They are often compared and contrasted with PX.

  • Upvote 1

Russ - Student of the Moe Norman swing as taught by the pros at - http://moenormangolf.com

Titleist 910 D3 8.5* w/ Project X shaft/ Titleist 910F 15* w/ Project X shaft

Cobra Baffler 20* & 23* hybrids with Accra hybrid shafts

Mizuno MP-53 irons 5Iron-PW AeroTech i95 shafts stiff and soft stepped once/Mizuno MP T-11 50.6/56.10/MP T10 60*

Seemore PCB putter with SuperStroke 3.0

Srixon 2012 Z-Star yellow balls/ Iomic Sticky 2.3, X-Evolution grips/Titleist Lightweight Cart Bag---

extra/alternate clubs: Mizunos JPX-800 Pro 5-GW with Project X 5.0 soft-stepped shafts

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Originally Posted by Backspinalot

Hi, for all you equipment experts out there...

So I am about a 2-3 handicap on a 7100Y course I haven't been entering scores but that's about what I play to, 16 yrs old 140 lbs 5'8. I have always hit the ball fairly high so I am not the best wind player but that is ok with me. I don't know my CHS but I fly the ball around 280 off the tee at 4500 feet elevation.  ...

If you having been golfing a couple of years, and plan to play competitively, and your parents back your golf...

it may be time to get a fitting on a launch monitor. For details, see rustyredcab's advice.

If you knew your clubhead speed, and the pattern of your ball flight (draw-fade / high-low), you could get a better idea of what clubs and shafts you might need. IF you're going to be mixing iron sets, you want to be systematic about it. Jumping to MBs for 5i and above, with shafts trimmed maybe a half inch (?), appears a little hit and miss. Approach this as a science project. Measure your current performance, take notes, and work with a clubfitting expert to get what you need , not what will look cool in your bag.

Also, at age 16, you likely will grow some before you reach final adult size. So, make sure you don't jump so far into the future you have clubs you can't hit quite yet. A clubfitter that works with high school golfers can help you in this area.

Good luck, and keep us posted... (and, pay $25 and start building a handicap!)

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

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Note: This thread is 4247 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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