Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 4818 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys,

Here are some notes about my golf experience:

  • I picked up golf in July of this year and have been using my brother's old irons: Titleist DTR's from the 80's
  • I've been very eager to learn and have put in 10+ hours per week of practice at the driving range consistently, along with an occasional lesson to make sure I'm on the right track
  • As of now, I'm hitting the 6 iron in the 140's, with the other irons appropriate distances around that mark
  • I've played about 6-7 rounds at a short par-3 course, where I averaged 36 and had a best of 33 (no mulligans or toe wedge)
  • My swing speed with an 8 iron was clocked in the mid 80's and was carrying about 125 yards
  • My teacher mentioned that I flip/cast the club, and said the result is a few mph lost from my swing translating into around 10-15 yards of distance lost
  • He said my clubs were a bit too long for me, so the head does not sit on the ground, which can cause a hook, and that my swing path is forced to flattened
  • He also mentioned that since my clubs are 20+ years old, a more modern club would have a bigger sweet spot and probably travel further.
  • I'm 30 years old, 5 feet 115 lbs, but athletic and in good shape.  Yes, I'm abnormally short.  I don't anticipate ever being a "long hitter", but from what I've read here, if I can get my 6 iron to go in the 160's then I would be very average in distance.  Eventually when I get a driver, I hope to hit in the 230-250 range.  I have a brother who is a few inches taller than me and he can crush the ball around 270 and shoots in the low 80's.

I've tested out some demo clubs and I did get some additional distance, but they were even longer shafts and the grips were too thick, so the accuracy was not quite there.  So far I've liked the Taylormade Burners; I forget which model but I was told they were a couple years old.  Also, the R11's were nice.  I tried out some Calloways that I didn't like.  Someone suggested the Taylormade Burner Plus, saying they were the more forgiving for a high handicapper.

I anticipate that I'll have another year or so of free time for extensive practice, but after that I'll likely stagnate.  My goal is to be able to hit in the 80's but I would probably be happy with low 90's, as long as my shots look good when I play with my boss.

Anyway, this message has way too much information to ask the basic question: what kind of effect can I expect from a newer, better club?  I'm hoping for more consistency and 20 yards.

Cheers


Posted

You would definitely benefit from being fitted for clubs. The "average" set of irons is made for someone between 5-foot-9 and maybe 6-foot-2, and people taller or shorter likely will need something outside the "average" specs.

(NOTE: There's no industry average for specs - it varies from club model to model and company to company. For example, I need a slightly flat lie for Ping irons, but the standard lie is fine for me with Callaway and Nike).

You likely would benefit most from a basic static fitting. This ensures that:

  • the clubs shafts are not too long or short for your height/arm length
  • you have the right lie angle. If the clubs are too long and rock back on the heel, you have too upright a lie, which causes you to hook
  • The grip thickness matches the size of your hands.

Also, by checking clubhead speed, the fitter can get some idea of what flex shaft you need. A good fitter can tweak all the above bullet items, or factory-order a set that fits you if needed..

Newer clubs have more efficient head design.

Note: Remember that the head is only half the club; a proper shaft (flex and length) is the other half.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

How much effect? Kinda hard to play with out them...

New clubs are longer(distance-wise) because they now call a 6 iron a 7 iron. The only true measure of club's worth is your score at the end of the day, not how far you hit them. The problem with "strong clubs", comes with your wedges. Your new PW is really a 9 iron, so now you need a gap wedge to make up the difference and that can lead to shorting yourself in the number of effective wedges you can carry. Don't get caught up in the "longer is better" hype.

I got new CG16s and they are made the same...6 iron labeled a 7. I got them because I HIT THEM WELL, not because I "hit them longer"! And yes it did cause a problem with sorting out my wedges.

R11s driver

R11 3 wood

Glide sole design 5 wood

Cleveland CG16 irons

Vokey SM4 48*, Vokey SM4 52*, Vokey SM4 56* wedges

Yes! Eleanor putter


Posted

if you are spending that much time playing/practicing I don't see why you wouldn't get a good new/used set.  If you get fitted that is always good especially at your height.  Getting new clubs will give you confidence and also (should) remove all those thoughts in the back of your mind that it might be the clubs costing you some strokes/distance.

Like Willie Malay said you will probly see a distance increase because of stronger lofts.  If you can get on the path to releasing the club properly that will be the best way to improve both distance and consistency.


Posted

Thanks for the replies.

I did go in to get fitted for some irons and several people mentioned how much impact changing clubs will have since my current set is so old.  I think I am going to go with Taylormade Burner Plus.  When I was playing with them they were going about 20 yards further, and more consistent...which is what I was looking for.


Posted

Clubs fitted for you will be a lot better than random combo irons.  Obviously new technology clubs will benefit your game more than older clubs, but in the end it all comes down to your swing.

Titleist 913D2 9.5 (UST VTS 65)

Titleist 913F 15 (Diamana S+)

Titleist 913H 19 (Diamana S+)

Titleist 714 AP2 (4-PW) (DG XP-95)

Titleist Vokey SM5 (52,56,58) (DG XP-95)

Ping Anser 2 Classic


Posted
Originally Posted by Willie Malay

How much effect? Kinda hard to play with out them...

LOL ... that was my first thought when I saw the title of the thread as well.

Originally Posted by Willie Malay

New clubs are longer(distance-wise) because they now call a 6 iron a 7 iron. The only true measure of club's worth is your score at the end of the day, not how far you hit them. The problem with "strong clubs", comes with your wedges. Your new PW is really a 9 iron, so now you need a gap wedge to make up the difference and that can lead to shorting yourself in the number of effective wedges you can carry. Don't get caught up in the "longer is better" hype.

I got new CG16s and they are made the same...6 iron labeled a 7. I got them because I HIT THEM WELL, not because I "hit them longer"! And yes it did cause a problem with sorting out my wedges.

Two thoughts here ...

1.  I don't think it's quite as simple as saying you're calling your old 6 iron a 7 iron now.  It's definitely true that the clubs all have stronger lofts but it's not totally the manufacturers playing marketing games.  More perimeter weight, and a lower CG, with traditional lofts, and then your ball is just going to be going straight up in the air.  I think that is why blades still have traditional lofts.

2.  In spite of what I just said, the bottom line, like you said, is that the stronger clubs cause the ball to go further.  Therefore the wedge problem you mentioned isn't really a big deal because even though you may have to add a gap at the bottom, you can take out the 3 iron because it's going as far as your hybrid or 5 wood.  That's what happened to me.  I upgraded from 3-PW (47*), 56*,60* to 4-PW (45.5), UW (50), SW (54.5), LW (59)  The 4 iron goes as far as the old 3 so there really wasn't a problem,

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
80mph 8 iron is pretty fast. That should be going about 165 at that speed if hit cleanly I think. So for that reason alone, you need new clubs. I just got new clubs for the first time. Distances and ball flight are similar to my old clubs. The only thing that really changed is that I seem to strike the ball much better and more consistently with the new clubs. That's it for me on the pros of getting new clubs, but confidence is 75% of the game, so I would say for me, it was worth it.

Note: This thread is 4818 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Day 470 - 2026-01-13 Got some work in while some players were using the sim, so I had to stick around. 🙂 Good thing too, since… I hadn't yet practiced today until about 6:45 tonight. 😛 
    • That's not quite the same thing as what some people messaged me today.
    • Day 152 1-12 More reps bowing wrists in downswing. Still pausing at the top. Making sure to get to lead side and getting the ball to go left. Slow progress is better than no progress.  
    • Yea, if I were to make a post arguing against the heat map concept, citing some recent robot testing would be my first point. The heat map concept is what I find interesting, more on that below. The robot testing I have looked at, including the one you linked, do discreet point testing then provide that discrete data in various forms. Which as you said is old as the hills, if you know of any other heat map concept type testing, I would be interested in links to that though! No, and I did say in my first post "if this heat map data is valid and reliable" meaning I have my reservations as well. Heck beyond reservations. I have some fairly strong suspicions there are flaws. But all I have are hunches and guesses, if anyone has data to share, I would be interested to see it.  My background is I quit golfing about 9 years ago and have been toying with the idea of returning. So far that has been limited to a dozen range sessions in late Summer through Fall when the range closed. Then primarily hitting foam balls indoors using a swing speed monitor as feedback. Between the range closing and the snow flying I did buy an R10 and hit a few balls into a backyard net. The heat map concept is a graphical representation of efficiency (smash factor) loss mapped onto the face of the club. As I understand it to make the representation agnostic to swing speed or other golfer specific swing characteristics. It is more a graphical tool not a data tool. The areas are labeled numerically in discrete 1% increments while the raw data is changing at ~0.0017%/mm and these changes are represented as subtle changes in color across those discrete areas. The only data we care about in terms of the heat map is the 1.3 to 1.24 SF loss and where was the strike location on the face - 16mm heal and 5mm low. From the video the SF loss is 4.6% looking up 16mm heal and 5mm low on the heat map it is on the edge of where the map changes from 3% loss to 4%. For that data point in the video, 16mm heal, 5mm low, 71.3 mph swing speed (reference was 71.4 mph), the distance loss was 7.2% or 9 yards, 125 reference distance down to 116. However, distance loss is not part of a heat map discussion. Distance loss will be specific to the golfers swing characteristics not the club. What I was trying to convey was that I do not have enough information to determine good or bad. Are the two systems referencing strike location the same? How accurate are the two systems in measuring even if they are referencing from the same location? What variation might have been introduced by the club delivery on the shot I picked vs the reference set of shots? However, based on the data I do have and making some assumptions and guesses the results seem ok, within reason, a good place to start from and possibly refine. I do not see what is wrong with 70mph 7 iron, although that is one of my other areas of questioning. The title of the video has slow swing speed in all caps, and it seems like the videos I watch define 7i slow, medium, and fast as 70, 80, and 90. The whole question of mid iron swing speed and the implications for a players game and equipment choices is of interest to me as (according to my swing speed meter) over my ~decade break I lost 30mph swing speed on mine.
    • Maxfli, Maltby, Golfworks, all under the Dicks/Golf Galaxy umbrella... it's all a bit confounding. Looking at the pictures, they all look very, very similar in their design. I suspect they're the same club, manufactured in the same factory in China, just with different badging.  The whacky pricing structure has soured me, so I'll just cool my heels a bit. The new Mizuno's will be available to test very soon. I'm in no rush.  
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.