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  1. 1. Which Driver should I but based on info below???

    • Taylormade Burner
      11
    • Ping G5
      3
    • Callaway FTi
      6
    • Nike SasQuatch Sumo
      2


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Posted
Please vote in the poll above on which driver you think would work best for me based on the information below:

1) I struggle off the tee . I use to play a FT-3 Tour 9.5 Driver with a NVS X65 shaft but right now I am only comfortable with my Hybrid (see signature) but it kills my ability to score (with shorter irons) and my ability to play the tips. I believe I need a more forgiving driver and keep working on my swing

2) I have pretty good iron game . I even like hitting my longer irons.

3) I think I need an "X" shaft . My swing speed equates to the fact that I play my 9 iron to 150yds and my 5 iron to 195yds. I had my driver swing speed measured by a device at a driving range not to long ago and it was between 105-110. However, last night at Golfsmith I could barley keep it near 100mph (not swinging well also).

Based on the above information I am looking to the expertise that all of you have in reference to my need... PLEASE HELP ME!!!

PS I would also like to know why you make the choice you do. Thanks.

TEE - XCG6, 13º, Matrix Ozik HD6.1, stiff
Wilson Staff - Ci11, 3-SW, TX Fligthed, stiff

Odyssey - Metal X #7, 35in

Wilson Staff - FG Tour ball 


Posted
I say Tayloremade Burner or even the R5 Superquad are my suggestions. i find my taylormade easy to hit, and i love it

Posted
Of your choices, I think the Burner is the best. Longer shaft = more clubhead speed = more distance. If you swing at 110 mph you should carry 270 yards off the tee, more or less, and maybe roll out a bit more. Best bet is to get on a launch monitor, though. If you're out to buy a driver they should do that for free.
"Shouldn't you be going faster? I mean, you're doing 40 in a 65..."

Driver: Burner TP 9.5*
3 Wood: 906F2 15*
2I: Eye 23I-PW: 3100 I/HWedges: Vokey Spin-Milled 56*06, MP-R 52*07/60*05Putter: Victoria IIBall: Pro V1xCheck out my new blog: Thousand Yard DriveHome Course: Kenton County...

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Posted
3)

105-110 is likely not going to be an X shaft, no. If you're sometimes under that (what does "barely keep it near 100" mean?), definitely not an X.

I can't answer the poll because you have some options there which make no sense together. The Burner is a "who cares what direction it goes, I just want to hit it FAR!" driver, and the SUMO 2 (I assume you meant that model) and the FT-i are "I don't care if it's a little shorter, I just want it to go straight" drivers. The G5 is somewhere in between. You've somehow managed not to include drivers from Cobra, the FT-5, the other Nike, the other TaylorMade, Titleist... Cleveland...

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

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Posted
The only way you are going to save yourself from wasting $300-$500 is to hit drivers on a launch monitor. I couldnt agree more with iacas. You left many drivers off that list that may be better suited for your game. 100-110 is not an X flex. Keep with a stiff, but like I said, take the hour and hit everything on a launch monitor. Only other question I have is why were you hitting a FT-3 TOUR? Do you have an abnormally high launch? Most 13 caps dont benefit at all from "tour" driver models.

LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......LAUNCH MONITOR.......
In My Bag
Driver: R5 TP 9.5 Diamana
3 Wood: V-Steel 15* UST V2
5 Wood: R7 Steel
Hybrids: Heavenwood 20* UST V2 Rescue Mid 22* UST V2Irons: RAC LT2 5-9 Project X FlightedWedges: RAC Black TP 47* 51* 55* 60*Putter: White Hot 2 BallBalls: One Black

Posted
$300 in lessons may pay better dividends than a new driver. My driver was $99 delivered, but I can outdrive most guys with new tech (High MOI) drivers and keep it in the short grass. I had it reshafted and cut to 44" but other than the improved accuracy of the 44" shaft it has nothing to do with the bat just how I swing it.

If you are not interested in taking a look at lessons, I'd highly recommend trying out some Tour Edge stuff and saving some $$, they make great gear and have a life time warranty.

What's In The Bag
Driver: TM Burner stiff
3i Cleveland Hibore Hybrid
3-6: MX-23
7-PW: MP-60 Project X 5.5SW: Golden Bear hybridLW/GW Cleveland 60* and Tour Edge 50*Putter: two bar rifle malletBall: NXT TourHome Course: Raintree CC 70.7/126 North 71/130 Southhttp://stink.net


Posted
Get the Ping G5. I personally love it. My only gripe with it right now is when I got it last fall, my swing needed a 13.5° loft...now I need a 10.5°. But yeah, the G5 is a great club in my opinion.

Driver Ping G10 10.5*
Hybrids Ping G5 (3) 19* Bridgestone J36 (4) 22*
Irons Mizuno MP-57 5-PW
Wedges Srixon WG-504 52.08 Bridgestone WC Copper 56.13
Putter 33" Scotty Cameron Studio Select #2


Posted

I really appreciate everyones input so far and I would like to address

"iacas" reply as you always seem to be very honest with your opinions (which is fine with me) and you are a more experienced and better player then I am (right now). I think my answers will help better understand the situation.
105-110 is likely not going to be an X shaft, no.

...imteresting as I do play DG S300 shafts in my irons but my reserach has included things like this http://www.golfsmith.com/ps/display_...yersguide_dfww which says that I should be in an X shaft? or are you saying based on this and my swing results on the monitor I should lean toward a stiff shaft? I also like clubs to have weight to them but I suppose that is related to the grams of the shaft and not the flex
(what does "barely keep it near 100" mean?), definitely not an X.

Barely keeping it at 100mph was a combination of things 1) It was right after work and even though I warmed up with about 15 "6 iron" swings I was not swinging well. You know that feeling when you feel like you have two right hands. 2) I am not sure their monitors were working correctly because another person was having problems with their monitor as well and then the guy helping me got up and hit a ball and barely broke 100mph and got this perplexed look on his face, however, he was cool enough to say I should come back when I am feeling like I am warmed up and swinging good instead of admitting they had a problem.

I can't answer the poll because you have some options there which make no sense together. The Burner is a "who cares what direction it goes, I just want to hit it FAR!" driver, and the SUMO

Good points as always but my choices were based on one thing that I think is most important when deciding on a club (I failed to mention this in the original post) and that is the Drivers in the Poll are the ones that when I set them down I feel like I can hit them and like the way they look. I don't like the look of the Cobra, Cleveland (FT-5 resembles FT-3) and from what I understand the Titleist Drivers are not very forgiving (for better players). Not that these are not all great clubs because I think they are. It is just that they are not appealing to my eye. Clear as mud???

TEE - XCG6, 13º, Matrix Ozik HD6.1, stiff
Wilson Staff - Ci11, 3-SW, TX Fligthed, stiff

Odyssey - Metal X #7, 35in

Wilson Staff - FG Tour ball 


Posted

You cant take your swing speed with a driver and use it for iron shaft fittings. You may be able to get it up to 110 with a 45" club, but I guarantee you cant with a 5 or 6 iron. Iacas was correct in saying that most likely you need a stiff flex shaft.

In My Bag
Driver: R5 TP 9.5 Diamana
3 Wood: V-Steel 15* UST V2
5 Wood: R7 Steel
Hybrids: Heavenwood 20* UST V2 Rescue Mid 22* UST V2Irons: RAC LT2 5-9 Project X FlightedWedges: RAC Black TP 47* 51* 55* 60*Putter: White Hot 2 BallBalls: One Black

Posted
A couple of things...these are my opinions on how to go about choosing a new driver. My handicap is similar to yours.

1. All new drivers are good today. If you buy a new, pro-line driver, you will be getting a good club, no matter who you go with. Not every club will work for everyone, but the point is you don't have to worry about getting something that's technologically bad or of cheap quality, etc.

2. Yes, go to a reputable place and get a driver fitting. Lots of stores have "launch monitors," but you want to be somewhere where there is an experienced fitter or pro, not some kid in a big box store who has memorized a few numbers on spin and launch. My recommendation is to go with one of the recommended fitting centers of the major manufacturers, which can be accessed by their websites, usually under a link for "authorized fitting centers." Where I live in NJ, most people think the best local fitting experience is at a Callaway fitting center, but there are many very good ones in most metro areas.

3. Swing speed is one thing that factors heavily in choosing a shaft flex, but so does rate of acceleration in your swing, subjective elements of feel, etc. Also remember that "S" and "X" aren't standardized terms, and don't mean the same thing from shaft to shaft. A good fitting session will recommend a shaft flex for you, and a good fitter will usually have you try shafts that are a bit above and below your recommended range, to bring in the subjective element. Most people say that if you're in doubt, the softer flex is better, but I think you have to decide that for yourself. Softer flex usually increases distance but decreases accuracy, although even this is not an iron clad rule.

After you've been fitted, you probably will end up with at least 2 or 3 'candidates' for your new driver. My recommendation at this point is to take the contenders to a practice tee or, if possible, out to the course with you, and field test them.

Everyone has their own way of doing this, but as a rule, it shouldn't take more than 5-6 shots in the real world with a club to tell if it's going to be good for you. The one that feels the best after a few swings is likely to be the best overall. But you shouldn't do the field test until AFTER you've been fitted "by the numbers."

Good luck, and let us know what you pick.

JP Bouffard

"I cut a little driver in there." -- Jim Murray

Driver: Titleist 915 D3, ACCRA Shaft 9.5*.
3W: Callaway XR,
3,4 Hybrid: Taylor Made RBZ Rescue Tour, Oban shaft.
Irons: 5-GW: Mizuno JPX800, Aerotech Steelfiber 95 shafts, S flex.
Wedges: Titleist Vokey SM5 56 degree, M grind
Putter: Edel Custom Pixel Insert 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

Wow! Great post...and thanks for the analytical approach.

See my reponse below:
A couple of things...these are my opinions on how to go about choosing a new driver. My handicap is similar to yours.

I agree. I think as I posted before as long as I purchase a quality club then the next most important aspect (other then shaft and launch angle) is whether or not when I look down at the club I think I can hit it or not.

2. Yes, go to a reputable place and get a driver fitting. Lots of stores have "launch monitors," but you want to be somewhere where there is an experienced fitter or pro, not some kid in a big box store who has memorized a few numbers on spin and launch. My recommendation is to go with one of the recommended fitting centers of the major manufacturers, which can be accessed by their websites, usually under a link for "authorized fitting centers." Where I live in NJ, most people think the best local fitting experience is at a Callaway fitting center, but there are many very good ones in most metro areas.

Great idea versus a salesman at Golfsmith or Edwinn Watts trying to get me into a club that they have in their inventory. Also I think I am going to educate myslef more on launch angles and shaft technology so that I am an educated buyer. I know some things but not enough.

After you've been fitted, you probably will end up with at least 2 or 3 'candidates' for your new driver. My recommendation at this point is to take the contenders to a practice tee or, if possible, out to the course with you, and field test them. Everyone has their own way of doing this, but as a rule, it shouldn't take more than 5-6 shots in the real world with a club to tell if it's going to be good for you. The one that feels the best after a few swings is likely to be the best overall. But you shouldn't do the field test until AFTER you've been fitted "by the numbers." Good luck, and let us know what you pick.

This is another great idea and I had already started thinking that I was going to look around for some demo days and try hitting some of the clubs that I like at the driving range at least.

Big Lex, I see in your signature that you play the FT i . I really like the technology of this club as it makes a lot of sense to me. However, I have read multiple times that if your swing speed is fast (define fast??) that this is not the club for you. Could you answer the following for me: 1) What is your driver swing speed 2) Which shaft do you have in your FTi 3) How do you like the club (Pro's & Con's) Thanks again for the post as it has helped much along with the others. I think I have some work to do before I am ready to decide.

TEE - XCG6, 13º, Matrix Ozik HD6.1, stiff
Wilson Staff - Ci11, 3-SW, TX Fligthed, stiff

Odyssey - Metal X #7, 35in

Wilson Staff - FG Tour ball 


Posted
Wow! Great post...and thanks for the analytical approach.

To answer your questions:

My measured swing speed in fitting sessions for a driver ranges from 95 mph up to about 102-3 at the absolute highest. I have the new By You shaft from Aldila, S-flex. I love the club. It is longer than the FT-3 I was playing before. The knock on the FTi has been that it isn't as long as other drivers. This may be true, but this club/shaft combination is longer for me. Not alot longer, but a little for sure...probably 5 yards on average. Pros and cons...compared to the FT-3, there frankly isn't much difference, but it's just a bit longer, with a slightly flatter trajectory and a bit less curvature for me. I am playing this club mainly because one of my closest friends is a Callaway rep, and he wanted me to try it and play it at my golf club. I was very happy with my FT-3 and probably wouldn't have switched. But after switching, I'm glad I did. The only think I didn't like about it, initially, was the sound (too loud and harsh). But after a while, I got used to it, and actually like the sound now. The sound is pleasing when you see the ball going straight and far... Good luck with your search, and let me know what you end up with. JP

JP Bouffard

"I cut a little driver in there." -- Jim Murray

Driver: Titleist 915 D3, ACCRA Shaft 9.5*.
3W: Callaway XR,
3,4 Hybrid: Taylor Made RBZ Rescue Tour, Oban shaft.
Irons: 5-GW: Mizuno JPX800, Aerotech Steelfiber 95 shafts, S flex.
Wedges: Titleist Vokey SM5 56 degree, M grind
Putter: Edel Custom Pixel Insert 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Get fit by a good clubfitter.

Driver- Geek Dot Com This! 12 degree Matrix Ozik Xcon 6 Stiff
Adams Tour Issue 4350 Dual Can Matrix Ozik Xcon 5

Hybrids- Srixon 18 deg
Srixon 21 deg Irons- Tourstage Z101 3-PW w/Nippon NS Pro 950 GH - Stiff Srixon i701 4-PW w/ Nippon NS Pro 950 GH-Stiff MacGregor...


Posted
Try to find a dealer that allows you to hit several drivers outside on a range. Demo days are great because they usually have lots of shafts to choose from. Probably, a shaft out there for you, just have to find it. Even the same type clubs can feel different, so as the saying goes, if you love the demo and can buy it, buy it. Just buying a brand from advice is a good way to buy a driver but never keep it in the bag.

Posted
I have the same swing speed specs as you and I play a R burner 10.5*

I would recommend trying on a launch monitor before buying, it's the only way to know what is best for you!

BTW there is no way in hell you should be playing a X shaft, it will only serve to exascerbate the problems you are having off the tee.

MX500 9.5* S
Burrows Golf MAC Powersphere 3W
IDEA PRO Irons
Perfect Club 21*
IDEA PRO 3HSakamoto 54* X-tour 60* Newport 2 Pro Platinum Custom


Posted
You need to have a STIFF shaft (low torque and high bend point) with 9.5 degree loft. Try Grafalloy Blue. X-STIFF have a tendency to hook the ball.

I don't think you need a new driver.... what you need a new shaft....

I switch 3 drivers last year, it does not make any improvements.
Whats in my Golf Bag:
Driver: Nike Sumo 5000
5 Wood: Mizuno MP-001
Iron: Mizuno MX-950 5-PW
Wedge: Cobra FP 60 degrePutter: Odyssey 2-BallBall: Yellow balls

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