Stock shaft - which do they mean?

[ryunin]

I have recently bought my fw first wood - 2012 Cleveland Black 5 w - and it felt so wonderful and natural for me that I started to wonder why my driver feels so different... (never-ending discussion follows..), a friend of mine, a single HCP golfer told me that I should have the same kind of wood and driver, at best the same series, so in my case I should have Cleveland Black 2012 driver with miyazaki  39 shaft which I have with my 5 wood /and it came as stock with the 5 wood...  So now I am looking for a nicely priced Cleveland Black 256 driver with regular miyazaki 39 shaft. Some reviews say that this driver comes stock with miyazaki shaft, but the best deal I found only says it comes with  "cleveland stock graphite shaft"but I am not sure what they mean by that, as at some websites there are a few different shafts for this driver listed as stock shafts. I need to make sure I get the same shaft as my wood, miyazaki 39... How to make sure and can I find somewhere what they mean by stock shaft in the case of this particular driver? Thanks for helping.

Here is the driver, seller and info I am talking about:

http://www.rockbottomgolf.com/cleveland-golf-cg-black-driver.html#product-info

[jcjim]

You need to clarify what's the name of the shaft that's in the club is. many Mfg's use what they call their stock shafts...Plus they offer different shafts as a upgrade either more costly or the same price...

If you have to have exactly the same shaft that's in your driver then you need to find out.

As a aside the idea that you have to have the same shafts in your driver and woods I guess would be nice but since everyone swings their drivers and their woods differently maybe it's not the most important. Of coarse I've never considered that I needed the same matching woods and driver.

Edit   I just saw it's Rock Bottom they are very tough to get in touch with...They wouldn't refund me the full amount when the club I bought was destroyed in transet and never was delivered to me until I got Ebay to force them to..it took weeks to solve and a lot of headaches.

[ryunin]

You need to clarify what's the name of the shaft that's in the club is. many Mfg's use what they call their stock shafts...Plus they offer different shafts as a upgrade either more costly or the same price...

If you have to have exactly the same shaft that's in your driver then you need to find out.

As a aside the idea that you have to have the same shafts in your driver and woods I guess would be nice but since everyone swings their drivers and their woods differently maybe it's not the most important. Of coarse I've never considered that I needed the same matching woods and driver.

Edit   I just saw it's Rock Bottom they are very tough to get in touch with...They wouldn't refund me the full amount when the club I bought was destroyed in transet and never was delivered to me until I got Ebay to force them to..it took weeks to solve and a lot of headaches.

thanks for that comment, I thought it might be difficult to contact them or rely on their information, too bad they only say stock shaft, it is most probably the one that is mentioned in reviews, but not sure 100 per cent... do you think that a 2012 driver   will be available for sale from time to time for another year or two , or these last pieces I found all around the net are really the last?

[jcjim]

thanks for that comment, I thought it might be difficult to contact them or rely on their information, too bad they only say stock shaft, it is most probably the one that is mentioned in reviews, but not sure 100 per cent... do you think that a 2012 driver   will be available for sale from time to time for another year or two , or these last pieces I found all around the net are really the last?

2012 clubs will be available for some time. Ebay will be a big source. These bigger companys that sell online eirher supply the club specs in their adds or they don't so finding info is difficult...But the smaller sellers aren't the problem.Global Golf is another that has lots of inventory and they sell on Ebay or on line. They may be a source. Three balls is another of the big sellers..Well good luck with the search, if you don't need the club today I'd bet you'll find it over a month or so..

[Golfingdad]

a friend of mine, a single HCP golfer told me that I should have the same kind of wood and driver, at best the same series

I strongly disagree with this statement, FWIW.

[dkolo]

I have recently bought my fw first wood - 2012 Cleveland Black 5 w - and it felt so wonderful and natural for me that I started to wonder why my driver feels so different... (never-ending discussion follows..), a friend of mine, a single HCP golfer told me that I should have the same kind of wood and driver, at best the same series, so in my case I should have Cleveland Black 2012 driver with miyazaki  39 shaft which I have with my 5 wood /and it came as stock with the 5 wood...  So now I am looking for a nicely priced Cleveland Black 256 driver with regular miyazaki 39 shaft. Some reviews say that this driver comes stock with miyazaki shaft, but the best deal I found only says it comes with  "cleveland stock graphite shaft"but I am not sure what they mean by that, as at some websites there are a few different shafts for this driver listed as stock shafts. I need to make sure I get the same shaft as my wood, miyazaki 39... How to make sure and can I find somewhere what they mean by stock shaft in the case of this particular driver? Thanks for helping.

Here is the driver, seller and info I am talking about:

http://www.rockbottomgolf.com/cleveland-golf-cg-black-driver.html#product-info

Get fitted for your clubs independently of one another. What driver model you have has exactly zero bearing on what woods or irons you should be using. Your friend is giving you bad advice. Similarly, shafts for higher handicap players aren't the biggest deal. I have a R flex driver and a S flex 3 wood, and I hit them both just fine. As long as you don't hit an X-stiff when you should be hitting a senior flex shaft, it's not something to stress over.

[newtogolf]

I strongly disagree with this statement, FWIW.

I agree, driver and 3 wood are 2 totally different clubs, just because they have the same name and even shaft doesn't mean you will hit them equally well.

[ryunin]

Thank you guys for comments and advice. I have done some search and reading and came to the same conclusion as you - that a driver requires adifferent approach and for example the relaxed, easy going swing that works with my 5 wood doesn't work with my driver and I probably woudn't benefit from the super light shaft I have with my 5 wood. So I will just keep my current driver and will work on the swing.

As for fitting, when does dynamic fitting makes sense? Isn't it better to wait until my swing becomes at least a little bit consistent,  at least with the driver where my swing does not exist yet? I mean it is going to change rapidly within the next 12 months, I am changing a lot of things this year with the driver, shorter backswing, calm hips in backswing, more dynamic downswing, I mean if I get fitted dynamically now, in half a year it will be useless, I think. I have cleveland custom 588 with a regular flex and one lesson was about three basic things I am supposed to do and now a teacher told me to get used to the whole driver swing, and stop worrying about details ... so really only a beginning.

[jcjim]

You're asking the right questions. When you're new to this game you are going to go through many changes especially in your swing. Spending money on fittings isn't something you need to do. There are places on the internet that will estimate the flex you need based on the distance you hit your clubs. For instance if you hit your PW 100 yards you don't need a stiff shaft to do it regular will work. If you hit your driver 200 yards you don't need a stiff shaft but if you hit it 250 then you'll generally need a stiff shaft.

[WUTiger]

For some models of long clubs, the Driver and the FW have the same exact shaft.

Circa 2009, I bought a Callaway HyperX Tour driver and X.Tour 3W. Both of them had a Fujikuri FitOn e360 R-flex shaft, 68 grams.

Fast-forward to the X2Hot series: stock R-flex driver shaft is an Aldila Tour Blue 55 gr. shaft, while the the FWs have the same R-flex shaft model, but in 60 gr. version (a bit heavier)

XR series is similar: stock R-flex driver shaft has Project X LZ 50 Blue (54 grams), while stock R-flex (5.5 flex) FW shaft is the Project X LZ 50 Blue Fwy (also 54 grams).

I can't tell from comparing specs if it's the exact same shaft or not.

If you look in a components catalog, a few of the graphite "long club" shafts will simply be marked as WOODS: these are designed to go in a driver or FW depending on how you trim it. Other shaft models will have a WOOD and a FAIRWAY version of the same shaft. The FAIRWAY will be several grams heavier in weight, the idea being that the shorter shaft (after trimming) needs to weigh more to give the clubs a similar feel.

A few golfers can feel this, but most of us can't.

[ryunin]

Thank you guys for the tips and advice and explanation of stock shafts and fitting for a certain shaft type or length.