Working the Ball with SGI Irons?

[rudygu]

Thanks for the answers. I just ask because even at a 0 handicap I try my best to not have to work the ball. At my home course there are several holes where you have to move your teeball right or left but if I have to work an iron shot that means that I have hit a bad tee shot and there's something in my way. Of course I have to control trajectory often but really and truly I will always take that full iron shot into the green that I don't have to think about. Call me a simpleton, some do, but I try to just keep it simple and hit as many straight shots as possible.

I could not agree more. I only work the ball if there is something to be gained from it. This is usually 2 or 3 iron shots per round for me, usually after a poor tee shot into the edge of a wooded area. If I only have a clear shot to the left edge of a green guarded by a bunker on the left, I will hit a slight fade (3-5 yds) at the left edge to give myself a better chance at hitting that green and avoiding the sand. I'll do the same thing with a draw if the situation is flipped. If I have a straight shot to the green, I don't hit a big, sweeping hook just for the fun of it.

The main reason for my original post was to determine if it would be easier to control trajectory with a set of player's cavities. I'm very happy with my current irons, but once my ballstriking improves enough to warrant it, I think I would like the increased workability this type of iron would offer.

[albatroz]

Try the Cobra Carbon CB . This will solve what ever seems to be lacking in your game .

[RichF]

I am not going to preach to you to work on your short game because you both probably already know that.

Yeah, good post - the more I play golf, the more I focus on pitching/chipping/putting....it's definately what I practice down on the driving range (I probably take my driver/3-wood out for maybe 5-10 balls, tops)

[RichF]

Try the Cobra Carbon CB . This will solve what ever seems to be lacking in your game .

[Leek]

I am currently using Callaway X-18 irons with dynamic gold s300 shafts. I can move the ball left and right decently with these (left is easier than right), but I can not control the trajectory at all. Every shot wants to go high regardless of ball position, etc.

If I were you, I would pick one shot shape and play it. If you want new irons, there is nothing wrong with that. I'm a major iron ho. Honestly, no set of irons has ever shaved strokes from my game, yet I switch 3 sets of irons and always are on the lookout for a new set. Putter? yes, getting a putter that you can properly aim makes all the difference..

[rudygu]

If I were you, I would pick one shot shape and play it. If you want new irons, there is nothing wrong with that. I'm a major iron ho.

When I got these irons back in February, my handicap (according to the online calculator I use) was nearly twice what it is now and I honestly don't think that playing "game improvement" cavity backs helped that much at all. The main benefit has been distance forgiveness. A toed shhot with the Callaways may miss 5 yds short and a little right, instead of 10 yds short and a little more right with the Hogan Apex Plus irons I had before. A terrible swing still yields a terrible result. That being said, these are the clubs I have now and I like them well enough, so I'll keep them a little longer.

I totally agree about the putter. I just got it a few weeks ago to replace an Odyssey dfx 5500 and my number of 3 (and 4) putts has gone way down.

[beung]

If I were you, I would pick one shot shape and play it. If you want new irons, there is nothing wrong with that. I'm a major iron ho.

I completely agree with you to pick a shape and learn to play that shape and if I had a shape to pick from I would pick a fade over a draw. fades just are more forgiving, draws, although go further are harder to control.

For me going from my TM LTs to my MP 67s has shaved about 3 strokes off my game, although I think I have them all back by switching from my 2ball blade to my Newport2 blade. Even with the smaller offset the LTs had, it was really making it hard for me to control my swing to prevent me from drawing too much. Now my the setup I had to try and make my LTs go straight makes my MP67s fade and my "normal" swing goes pretty much straight.

[Leek]

I completely agree with you to pick a shape and learn to play that shape and if I had a shape to pick from I would pick a fade over a draw. fades just are more forgiving, draws, although go further are harder to control.

More than likely, unless you had your LTs bent or custom ordered, they were more upright than your Mizunos. That will make them go left. TM is not stupid. They make clubs that are upright to make it seem like the average guys hit the ball better and eliminate their slice! What they are really doing is pulling them due to lie angle.

[Tomboys]

More than likely, unless you had your LTs bent or custom ordered, they were more upright than your Mizunos. That will make them go left. TM is not stupid. They make clubs that are upright to make it seem like the average guys hit the ball better and eliminate their slice! What they are really doing is pulling them due to lie angle.

Absolutely correct. Here's the specs:

TM LT 6 iron: Length: 37.25" Lie: 62* Miz 67 6 iron: Length: 37.25" Lie: 61* DT