Advice on new wedges

[TN94z]

I am in need of a new set of wedges. Currently, my misses are fat and I believe my AoA is more shallow than steep as my divots aren't big when I take them. Here is my question...I am currently working with Evolvr to correct some hip turn/weight forward, early extension, and hands forward issues which probably leads to the fat mishits I have now. Do you guys think that my swing will change enough as I work with evolvr to put me into a different bounce of wedge than where I am now? Basically, do you think it's okay to go ahead and buy the wedges now or do I need to wait and see how my swing changes progress? It's just a thought

[WUTiger]

First of all, you don't give us much info to work with:

• Do your current wedges match your iron set, or are they specialty wedges?
• What wedges do you currently have, and what is their loft and bounce?
• Do your current wedges just not fit your swing, or are they all beat up and beyond salvage?
• Do you hit full shots with PW and GW, or do you mainly hit partial shots with all your wedges?
• Do you play on hard turf and firm sand, or soft turf and fluffy sand, or something in between? Soil/sand conditions combine with swing characteristics to guide you to what wedge bounce and sole grind might work best for you.

If you're working with Evolver, wait until you get your swing wobbles stabilized before buying new wedges.

[TN94z]

  On 6/20/2017 at 11:01 PM, WUTiger said:

First of all, you don't give us much info to work with:

• Do your current wedges match your iron set, or are they specialty wedges?
• What wedges do you currently have, and what is their loft and bounce?
• Do your current wedges just not fit your swing, or are they all beat up and beyond salvage?
• Do you hit full shots with PW and GW, or do you mainly hit partial shots with all your wedges?
• Do you play on hard turf and firm sand, or soft turf and fluffy sand, or something in between? Soil/sand conditions combine with swing characteristics to guide you to what wedge bounce and sole grind might work best for you.

If you're working with Evolver, wait until you get your swing wobbles stabilized before buying new wedges.

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I didn't give all of that info because I know what bounce, grind, etc...I would go with if I buy now. I've read through and decided on bounce, gap, etc.. over the years. I didn't want to start another one of those topics. The main question was whether I should wait on the swing progression, which you answered in the last sentence. All my wedges are specialty wedges and are worn out and/or broken. 

[WUTiger]

I understand now. I was a bit confused because you have six logos under Awards..., but did not list any club mix info in your sig line.

Let us know what mix of wedges you eventually buy!

[inthecup]

I think you are safe to buy new wedges.  Remember bounce is your friend.  Your need for bounce is not going to change with a tweaked swing.

What are the bounce of your current wedges, that could be your problem.

[TN94z]

  On 6/21/2017 at 12:15 PM, inthecup said:

I think you are safe to buy new wedges.  Remember bounce is your friend.  Your need for bounce is not going to change with a tweaked swing.

What are the bounce of your current wedges, that could be your problem.

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Currently I have a 52 with 8* and a 56 with 14*. They are both pretty old clubs. The 52 is a wedge that came in a Tom Watson set many, many years ago...haha. The 56 is a Cleveland that I bought probably 10 years ago...

[Mr. Desmond]

Wait a few months and work diligently, see where you are as to your swing.

Go to youtube and search Roger Cleveland, and Roger Cleveland and Pete Cowen - that should help with certain wedge shots. Roger has some nuggets on setup and swing around the green, and the bunker setup is gold.

[TN94z]

  On 6/22/2017 at 1:32 PM, Mr. Desmond said:

Wait a few months and work diligently, see where you are as to your swing.

Go to youtube and search Roger Cleveland, and Roger Cleveland and Pete Cowen - that should help with certain wedge shots. Roger has some nuggets on setup and swing around the green, and the bunker setup is gold.

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Thanks. I have no doubts that the swing changes that I am needing to make are where my errant shots are coming from. So I am patient as far as that goes. I am not necessarily looking for new wedges to try and "help" the errant shots. I am more looking at buying new wedges because these are old and worn out and seem to have lost a lot in the spin department. I was mainly just afraid to buy new wedges and then make swing changes that might possibly change me from a sweeper to a digger and require a different wedge build, for instance. That was my only concern.

[Mr. Desmond]

  On 6/22/2017 at 2:07 PM, TN94z said:

Thanks. I have no doubts that the swing changes that I am needing to make are where my errant shots are coming from. So I am patient as far as that goes. I am not necessarily looking for new wedges to try and "help" the errant shots. I am more looking at buying new wedges because these are old and worn out and seem to have lost a lot in the spin department. I was mainly just afraid to buy new wedges and then make swing changes that might possibly change me from a sweeper to a digger and require a different wedge build, for instance. That was my only concern.

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And that's what I meant. Have a pro see your swing and help determine with you do with the clubhead after you complete more swing "enancements". And it depend on what shots you hit around the greens and which wedges that you use for each shot. When I think wedges, I think specialty - the 54-60 lofts.

Do you take a shallow or deep divot - U shape (more shallow) or V shape (Steep) swing?

I sometimes get too steep and need bounce to help me.

If you are using the 54 for bunkers, look at the sole for bounce - but the sole is more than just bounce. Do you like to open it up, square, lean the shaft back, forward, can you compenate so you don't dig a certain shot? Do you want a lot of toe or trailing edge relief in a bunker? Maybe not because it cuts off bounce.

On a LW, 58-60, do you use it for rough, bunkers, flops? Look at the leading edge, look at the relief (grinding) it offer on the heel, toe, trailing edge.

The wedges are real weapons if you know what to look for in a grind and what shot you want to hit.

[TN94z]

  On 6/22/2017 at 5:35 PM, Mr. Desmond said:

And that's what I meant. Have a pro see your swing and help determine with you do with the clubhead after you complete more swing "enancements". And it depend on what shots you hit around the greens and which wedges that you use for each shot. When I think wedges, I think specialty - the 54-60 lofts.

Do you take a shallow or deep divot - U shape (more shallow) or V shape (Steep) swing?

I sometimes get too steep and need bounce to help me.

If you are using the 54 for bunkers, look at the sole for bounce - but the sole is more than just bounce. Do you like to open it up, square, lean the shaft back, forward, can you compenate so you don't dig a certain shot? Do you want a lot of toe or trailing edge relief in a bunker? Maybe not because it cuts off bounce.

On a LW, 58-60, do you use it for rough, bunkers, flops? Look at the leading edge, look at the relief (grinding) it offer on the heel, toe, trailing edge.

The wedges are real weapons if you know what to look for in a grind and what shot you want to hit.

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Got it. Yes, I will for sure do that once I have ironed out some swing issues. I think I may be convinced to just wait a little longer and see how the swing goes.

[SLAMGolf]

You should be nipping wedges with very little divot, almost thin and middle to slightly towards the toe for the most spin.  The more you interact with the turf, the more you bring earth into play.  Any matter on your clubface reduces the friction and therefore spin significantly.  Low friction wedge shots launch high with low spin.  Err on the side of more bounce, get something with all the milling on the face and pay for a premium ball.  Clean your clubs, but leave the sand on them after bunker shots.