billchao

My wife bought me the Bionic glove once as a gift and the seam ripped open during the first round... I use the Titleist Players glove exclusively now, I find they fit my hand the best and have the best feel, almost like having no glove on at all. Like some others have mentioned, I retire the glove when it gets cruddy, long before it shows any sign of breaking.

I just wanted to chime in, for the record I feel you should play from whatever tee box you like as long as you don't adversely affect others. However, I disagree with your example. A guy who hits the fairway 10% of the time is not very likely to be at his desired landing area in terms of yardage. A mishit affects both accuracy and distance. So, in your example, the guy who set up for a 300 yard drive but missed has likely found himself only about 260 off the tee and in the rough (or worse). Long hitter or not, it's a hard shot. I'd honestly rather be the 220 guy at that point, 90% fairway's hit means. He is likely to score no worse than 5 on this hole. Should have hit 3w... I'm just speaking from experience here. I usually play my driver 270. Sometimes I'll stripe it down the middle 280-285. Sometimes I'll slice it and hit it 240. Trust me the hole gets harder when its 30 yards longer than you expected. Your last statement is an oversimplification too. If there's a dogleg in either direction, there's a good chance that being long off the tee will hurt you even if you pure it. You can definitely drive a ball through a fairway as well. I guess my point is that a 300 yard driver of the ball has a lot of options off the tee he should be exercising to hit more fairways.

Got lucky today and managed to play in the nice weather... really need to play more than once a month. First time playing this course: par 72, 71.3 rating, slope 124. Shot 91 with 33 putts but I missed a 3' putt for birdie on 17. Had a bit of rust on my short game: a couple of pitch shots flew the greens. Also shot 7 over on the par 3s... Seven pars though, which I'm happy about. I hit 3 fairway's and 4 GIR, but most importantly, ZERO penalty strokes! Not one lateral miss or OB. I am glad to see my swing changes are working; still have a lot of work to do yet. Overall, very pleased with the round.

Is there a reason people couldn't use this technique with their regular long putter and just move the ball closer towards the target?

I think this product is a dud. It fills no practical need (pencils are free) and costs more than tees, as others have mentioned. I don't know about you, but I usually buy a yardage book or a ball marker or a golf ball as a souvenir. If I wanted a pencil or tee with the club's name on it, it's free. I think you're trying too hard to make it marketable.

Ah ok I see the mix up now, thanks.

I don't believe I said that? If I implied it, I apologize. What I was trying to illustrate is that a plane's engine will draw air even when stationary.

Which aircraft is irrelevant. What type of engine it has is also irrelevant. What is important is that the engines will move air. The displacement of that air will create a low pressure area in front of the engine where the air used to be, which will cause more air to rush into it. Thus, air movement is created by the engine. Take a jet engine and mount it to some brackets to secure it and turn it on. It still sucks up the air in front of it and blows it out the back, yet and it's not moving laterally an inch. They do thrust tests on engines all the time by attaching them to 747s and putting on the brakes. The engine is still causing force to be applied to the airplane. The very instant the thrust of the plane is strong enough to create lift, the conveyor belt is out of the picture and that plane is gone.

Sounds like you have inconsistency with the clubface angle at impact. Assuming your swing path is as consistent as you say, your misses are simply: closed face=pull draw, open face=push fade. Hard to tell what your path is, but I doubt it deviates more than a few degrees either way. As for your driver, if you hit the ball with a descending blow, your path will be more inside out. The opposite is also true. You seem to hit the driver on the upswing, which will make your path more out to in. The only way to hit a draw from that position is to hit a pull draw. If you want to hit a straight or push draw, you have to hit the ball earlier on your swing arc. Either push your weight forward more or tee the ball slightly back. As for the release, I'm not quite sure how to answer that. What do you mean by release? Do you feel like you throw the club or turn your wrists or flip? I actually have an early extension problem, so one of the things I work on is feeling like I'm swinging to the left.

That's because the model airplane has very little mass and therefore little inertia, which means it is easily moved by the record player. A plane, having more mass, is more likely to remain stationary, causing the wheels to spin. My wife tells me that my mattress example isn't very good, either, so I apologize if you're still confused. I guess the important thing here is that a plane's movement is through the air and independent of the ground.

I guess I didn't explain it as well as I thought about it in my head... The plane takes off via air pressure differential on its wings. The engines propel air, causing air around the plane to move faster than the surrounding atmosphere. As long as the air movement is fast enough to create lift, the plane will take off. Therefore, as long as the plane's engines are creating enough thrust upon the plane, it will fly. Maybe try thinking about a mattress strapped on top of someone's car moving down the highway. The mattress is stationary in relation to the car (much like the plane is to the conveyor) but the air movement caused by the propulsion of the car lifts up the mattress. The relation of the mattress to the earth is irrelevant.

I'd go with hybrids if I were you. I carry a 3 wood, but I hit it off the tee mostly. When I do hit it, like some others have mentioned, I choke down a bit on the club and swing easy. The focus is on solid contact. Let the club do its thing. If there is any doubt in the lie, I'll go 3 hybrid all the way. I'll trade the loss of yardage for better contact any day. As for practice, if you have the option to hit off grass, go for it. Mats can hide swing flaws and give you a false impression of your progression with your practice.

Generally, larger heads are more forgiving on mishits but smaller heads are more workable.

Imagine you are wearing roller skates on that moving sidewalk, going against the direction of the belt. Now imagine there is a long rope tied on to a pillar beyond the length of the sidewalk. Can you pull yourself through the conveyor belt with the rope? That's how thrust independent of the ground works. Also if you are stationary on a conveyor and jump straight up, you would land behind your original position. That might be the piece you are missing. While the plane may appear stationary (relative to our perspective) it is actually moving forward (per its perspective). Remember that engines on planes will move air regardless of whether they are on wheels or affixed to a specific position.

Then go with my original advice. Play your natural shot.

MSRP is manufacturer's suggested retail price. An OEM can no more dictate what you sell their product for than they can dictate what products of theirs to buy and how many (they do have the power to influence these decisions in other ways, however). You can discount their product however much you want, but at a certain point, you cannot advertise that price, which is a moot point for auctions like eBay. I am not suggesting that counterfeiting golf equipment not a multi-billion dollar industry, nor am I saying the potential of buying a fake isn't out there, but you cannot assume that everything not MSRP online is counterfeit. It's not like I'm advocating buying the newest set of Mizuno clubs for $200.

I've play winter golf in NJ and I can tell you that Under Armor is definitely the way to go, top and bottom. I wear my regular golf pants on top of that and my regular golf polo, followed by a light pullover fleece with a zip-up turtleneck, and finally a light windbreaker over everything. It's important that none of the layers are bulky for mobility. I'll usually shed the windbreaker or the fleece during the round, depending on how hot I get (Under Armor is great stuff). Oh, and don't forget long socks and some kind of wrap for your ears. I use winter golf gloves, can't think of the brand off the top of my head. Also, tuck everything in layers so you don't get gaps as you move (gloves over the Under Armor sleeves and under the fleece). I've got more advice about playing golf below freezing, but I don't think you're as crazy as I am, so I'll save it for another time.

You get partial credit. Yes, hit a club that will play short of the bunker to the widest part of the fairway. However, with that setup, you're more likely to hit a low duck hook straight into the trees on the left. What is your preferred shot shape? Do you predominately draw or fade the ball? I draw the ball (except driver: push fade ), so I offered how I would play the hole. If you're a fader, you should really tee off from the right side, aim left, and let the ball fade back in the middle. Don't try to hit a shot you aren't familiar with, that's probably the most important point here.

That only changes the clubs I'd use, not the strategy. Draw away from OB, short of the bunker. [quote name="bjoern2796" url="/t/63269/what-type-of-shot-should-i-play-in-this-situation#post_785867"]I hit my driver 245 yards. [/quote] If you are accurate with driver, hit the shot with it. I'd go 3 wood so you don't accidently put it in the bunker. Remember this is the first hole, you don't want to start your round off on the wrong foot.

How far do you hit your driver? Personally, I'd tee off on the left side and play the draw away from OB, hit my 200-215 club and take that bunker out of play. An approach from 130-140 is perfectly reasonable and I've taken all the trouble out of the shot. The idea here is that I'm willing to miss in the trees because (rough estimates here) I'll lose half a stroke on average in the woods, two strokes OB and a little under one from the fairway bunker so I'm giving myself the best chance at a low score if I'm miss towards the trees. Also, if that map is accurate, the fairway is also widest just short of that bunker. Go with the percentage play here.

Anybody have any experience putting a 3 wood shaft in their driver? I got intrigued after reading about it on Andrew Rice's blog and I was wondering if this was something worth experimenting with or if I should just cut down my driver and mess around with the swingweight. Here's the link: http://www.andrewricegolf.com/2012/10/which-driver-shaft-length/

Because he pulled the 5 iron for a wedge.

Could be a licensing thing too, no?

Agreed. Remember that the whole point of the system is to identify specific moments during the golf swing and clear up any confusion we could have over semantics. Whose 3 o'clock are we talking about anyway? My view? My caddie's? Bird's eye?

You sway away from the target on your backswing. In fact, your head moves back the entire span of one of those slats on your porch. From what I can see, you actually gain knee flex in your right knee, try straightening it as you turn back. You want to feel your weight more centered at the top as opposed to loaded up on your right side. Because your hips moved away from the target back, when you shift your weight forwards, you are only returning them to about where they started at address as opposed to several inches forward. This causes you to cast just to make contact with the ball.