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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. It may be true with some off-brand infomercial type clubs as I have never checked any of them but with all the technology out there measuring ball data and with adjustable drivers it would be hard to sneak past the consumer and what would be the point.
  2. Just FYI. This isn't true. I used to hear this 15 years ago about old Callaway Big Bertha drivers but never actually measured one so I can't say for sure. However, I have measured enough modern driver heads to say that they are usually within .5 degrees up or down of what they print on the hosel.
  3. Ha Ha. He plays graphite shafts, what a loser! Is this really a thing? You need to be pretty hard up on insults to go after graphite iron shafts. For the people I play with the insults never come from what you are hitting, it's always how you hit them.
  4. No I wouldn't say that. Each club or group of clubs has certain elements that should be "fit" to the golfer. Drivers should have the correct weight, length, loft, grip size, swing weight etc, and this can be done in doors for many golfers and get the results you need. Wedges need to have the correct lofts and lies but this is much harder to discern indoors. Grinds can be important depending on the golfer but really need to be addressed outdoors on grass.
  5. No, assuming that you have a basic understanding of what you should be looking for. Wedge fitting, especially indoors is a huge waste of time personally. Wedges should ideally be adjusted after you have played with them a bit or at least spent some time at the chipping green. Then you can bend the lie angle or grind them down to fine tune what you need.
  6. Pretty sure the monitor will be accurately telling you how far and high you hit a foam ball. Don't know what that is worth unless you have some sort of conversion table of foam to real golf balls. In all seriousness, you need real golf balls with any of these systems as they are measuring the ball data and have preset info set into them so foam will most likely confuse them.
  7. True. Of course then you are paying $45 for the new finish vs. $20 per shaft for these. Can't justify paying that much.
  8. This is funny b/c I just reshafted my Mizuno with a set of KBS Tours in that same finish since I was bored and wanted to try something different. I used my belt sander on all the shafts and had the finish peel on one of the wedges. Only the one out of 8 I did had that issue. Also recently did a set of TMs with KBS $ tapers with a black finish but didn't have any peeling with those. I really just sand down to where I don't see any more black color and the tip looks almost copper-ish in color. I assembled them and have played a couple times with no issue with the peel since its locked into the hosel and ferrule at this point. My advise is just don't over sand them, and you should be good.
  9. I think I put this video on here before but it seems like a good place to go if you have any questions about tightening up the driver without going through a full fitting.
  10. If you are hitting on both sides of the face I would definitely look at shortening the shaft some first and see if that can tighten it up a bit. Start by just gripping down 1/2 inch at a time and see where you get the best strike pattern. At that point you can start adding some head weight need be to get the feel back with a shorter club. Also along with this, you can take a piece of lead tape and run it down the back of the shaft starting an inch below the grip. A 12 inch piece will be about 10 grams. Again, see what this does for your consistency to give you a better idea of idea shaft weight. I've always said that if you can fit yourself, the results will be better assuming you know what to look for. Professional fittings can be misleading either from the fitter or from the environment (ie indoor, launch monitor issues, inconsistent swing). Not to say you shouldn't do a fitting, but definitely understand what's important especially to your particular game.
  11. Don't assume that you need lighter based on some online charts alone. You should look at impact location on your driver and see how consistently you hit the center and look at your launch and spin numbers to see if they are in a good range and consistent. Weights are really about fitting yourself into a range of weights and then having your whole bag move smoothly through with your driver being the lightest and wedges being the heaviest. I think most pros are in the 60-70g class at this point which wasn't the case a few years ago so lighter isn't bad for many golfers. Heck, Webb Simpson plays a 57g driver shaft I believe right now, at least I know he has recently. Also need to take into consideration the length you play your driver at. If you play it shorter then a heavier shaft can be a good option. However if you play at something over 45 inches, you may be better off with the lighter shaft.
  12. Ferrules warp very easily even when you are careful so it would be good if you have a few extra just in case. Focus the torch low on the hosel and no closer than a half inch from the ferrule when heating, and as said above wrap the ferrule in wet towels before you start. Personally I go fast with the heat on this sort of job, the less time with the ferrule in contact with the hot hosel tip, the better.
  13. Yes, weight is by far the most important spec in shafts. Most people don't realize this and assume it's flex or bend profile but those are minimally impactful for most golfers compared to shaft weight. The other spec to be aware of is balance point on these shafts. I wrote about this in another post but you need to be aware that those KBS tour shafts are more butt weighted than many shafts including the Elevates. So be aware of your SW when building these clubs as the head weights may need to be adjusted moving into them.
  14. You are very likely going to want to use new tip weights. Those KBS tour shafts have more weight in the back end than the DGs. Unless you are planning to play them well over standard length, they will come out light. I reshafted my MP18 MMCs from Nippon Modus3 120s to KBS Tour 120s and had to add between 6 and 10g to all the heads and this was at 1/2inch over standard length.
  15. Don't make any snap judgements until you have more than one round under your belt. Sounds like you now have a considerably different set up than previously so it will take some time to get used to. At least 4 more rounds or some time at the range before I would start guessing and changing things willy nilly.
  16. Guessing a little but it's most likely around 77g, mid launch, torque probably around 3.6 (but that really makes no difference). Since it was just the stock shaft for that hybrid, chances are better than good that the current model TM hybrid will have a similar shaft in it spec wise.
  17. If you are saying that you have rotated the shaft 180 degrees to get from 8 to 12, then if you believe in the merits of flo, there is zero difference because you are returning to the same bend plane, just flipped over. The result would be the same. I would personally tell you never to worry about flo, spine, PURE in the first place, but that is for a different discussion.
  18. Wedge specs are really dictated by the golfer's swing, preferred short game style, and course conditions. Not knowing anything about your game other than your a 10, those specs seem pretty reasonable. The grinds aren't of much concern to me unless you are playing on some really tight surfaces or really hilly. I don't know if you need the C grind on that 60 as I'm not sure how often you plan on really opening that club up and Mickelsoning it. I usually vote for more bounce and less grind for most people as a rule but everyone is different so you have to weigh the pros and cons.
  19. Ideally you would tip it a 1/2 inch and butt cut it down to length as others have mentioned, however since it's an adjustable hosel and you can just screw it in I would say try it at the range first and see. Then you can decide if you need to tip and or butt cut it down, but you might as well try the simplest thing first.
  20. Weight and length most important. Finding a similar bend profile is of lesser importance. If you tell us what he recommended I can give you a list of alternate shafts.
  21. It is the bare metal oxidizing. You can clean it up and get it looking more metally (not a word), but the color won't match perfectly. Also will need to keep it very clean and dry to keep it from darkening again.
  22. From the picture, I would agree with a 7 out of 10 rating. Face wear on that club is pretty obvious but the grooves appear to be in good shape. Any club with good grooves and no big dings or dents I would put over a 6. The ferrules look a little scuffed and clouded, at least the one. You could fix that and get them looking new though. At least from that picture it looks like a pretty good golfer owned them and took as good a care as can be expected of them.
  23. He may not have said that he hit the blades better, however every chart you showed from the video is in fact demonstrating that he hit the blades better (ie more consistent) based on every metric you showed compared to the Max. Again I say these were only his personal results, and I would need to see other golfers who would usually benefit from the SGI iron types go through this to be on board. And who knows, maybe those Mavrik Max clubs are crap, never hit them myself. If people really think this has merit, then if you're in the market for some SGI irons, buy yourself a set of heavy old blades and see how that works out for you.
  24. Okay, first I said the distance would be more consistent referring to only the Max, not against the blade. Sure, more dots are better. But again what I said was 500 ball to get used to the club then 40 balls, and repeat with the other. It may seem obvious that he is only one person, but he presents himself as an expert so that what he says carries weight for many of his viewers (scary but true). You don't need a long disclaimer about it, maybe just title the video Do I Hit Blades better than Cavity Backs? Of course that's not the kind of click bait title that Golf Myths Busted is. Never said he was cherry picking, or it was random chance that he hit the blade better, have been trying to explain why he got the results he did. This is a case where the results are less important than what was behind them. Pretty sure I covered objectively why the results were what they were and what the value of those results were before I got into his video history. When "this guy" makes claims about debunking golf myths and that leads people to incorrect conclusions then yes I think it's okay to explore his tendencies and motivations. This I agree with completely.
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