Adam C

The only graphite PX shafts that were made in the USA were the Hand Crafted HZDRUS line made in San Diego. This is no longer the case. All PX graphite are made in China. I am guessing they also make all the steel True Temper lines in a China factory for Asian distribution.

As others have said, there are many more options now for shafts. Those old Ping shafts were very heavy and stiff and you may want to look at something lighter and or more flexible. New shafts will run between $20-$40 each for high end steel. Figure around $25 per club to have someone else install. Though, those Eye2s are pretty simple to do yourself if you wanted to tackle that project.

The extension will make the butt end slightly stiffer, though the added length will lower the frequency overall. 1.5 inches should be fine and far cheaper than reshafting the set.

Ebay is your best bet. A club that old will unlikely still have components available from TM to replace. Problem is you will probably need to buy a whole set just to get the single shaft you need. You can easily replace it with something different with similar specs but obviously the graphics will not match.

Pretty sure it's fake. Has that cheaper fake look that some Callaway's have. Might be wrong as it's so old and my memory of that club isn't great, but the lettering looks clunky, the face looks overly shiny, and the textured section on the sole doesn't look quite right. Even if real, I don't know that I would pay $50 for it. You can spend a little more (still under $100) and get something better in my opinion.

Go with the NVS. That Trinity shaft was crap. I don't know why but it's not worth any amount of money from my experience.

Just a note. If you are using the heat gun on the tape be careful. If you get the tape hot enough where it's actually bubbling up, you are getting hot enough to damage those graphite shafts.

Would need to know budget and length you plan on playing at but there are probably 30 off the top of my head that would all work fine. Obviously if you liked the Mitsu Red stuff, you can easily find a 70g raw shaft in R and tip it the correct amount but like I said there are plenty of options.

You can buy a very basic clamp for the head that fits into a vice, then you can bend it. That runs around $150-$175. Then you also need a bending bar, say $50, and a protractor to measure results, $20. The basic machines start around $350 and go up.

Hard to tell in the pic but looks like it could be shaft tip bend not hosel. Just something to be aware of since certain shafts have a propensity to bend at the tip. If it is the shaft, bending the hosel would not be the answer, replacing the shaft would be.

Nope. You can stamp over it and just make a non descript pattern, you can hammer it out to lessen it, or you can grind it out. Obviously the last two will cause damage to the head and finish that will probably be far worse than the original stamping. Probably easier to just live with it, or change his name!

There is no reason you shouldn't be able to get the same amount of adjustment going in any direction with a club. That being said, some cast clubs with multi material construction will most likely bend less and possibly be slightly different in different directions. But assuming that the most anyone would bend a club would be a few degrees, it should be the same in any direction. I chose going flat in the video because it's the easiest to film as you don't move your body much and everything stays in focus better.

Okay. Feel free to take a guess below and then check out the video and see how close you were. Keep the results secret, interested to see what people guess?? Club 1- Mizuno MP18 MMC 4 iron Club 2- Generic Turbo Power I Pak component 5 iron

I just bent a Mizuno iron to failure a day ago for a new video coming out Friday. Won't spoil it, but will tell you I got more than 4 degrees out of it without issue. Also, before you go bending anything, go ahead and check the lie angles yourself so you aren't just guessing at what you need.

Who do you think spends the majority of advertising dollars in these publications? Don't bite the hand that feeds you.

Guessing here slightly but feel pretty confident that it's the same shaft, just two different paint jobs. Fact that they are both 48g makes it pretty certain in my mind.

Been planning this video for a while and finally got around to filming it. Not all adjustable hosels are created equal and understanding how they differ can help you find the right fit and settings for your game.

Don't worry about the torque on the graphite. Shaft makers are good at matching twisting stiffness with the rest of the shaft. I would argue that if you can swing the graphite easier because of the weight and vibration dampening, your results over a round of golf will be better vs. a steel shaft that may feel heavier by the end of the round and impact your results. Other option is go with steel, play them for a season and then install aftermarket graphite if you want a change. Do this and you could also make a test club or two, and see the results first hand.

I think what you are seeing there is just a quick tack glue to hold the tip weight from falling out before final assembly. Like boogielicious said, use the same epoxy to hold them.

7g is the standard weight progression assuming you are using standard 1/2 inch length gapping through the set.

I would consider that a classic wedge shaft in specs. Probably in-between the 130 and 125 in terms of feel.

Might also consider the 125. It's the lowest launch of the bunch if that's what you like. The 130 is usually considered the highest launch by most people. It's why Sergio played them for so long.

That one is going to be tricky. Feel like I have a vague recollection of a shaft like that but really not sure. Not sure tipping specs will even be useful on a shaft like that if you are trying to match it up with a modern driver head. The head weights are much lighter now so the tip trimming guide for older stuff goes out the window since they were gauging off a heavier head and shorter play length. My best advise would be to install without tipping and play it an extra inch longer. Grip down to where you plan on playing it and see how it reacts. If it feels too loose, you can go back and tip trim it down. If it feels okay, you can then butt cut to final length or just keep gripping down.

Is there a reason you don't want to just run the 130 through the wedges as well either in the x or drop into s? General rule is get the wedges slightly heavier than the irons or keep them the same. Don't usually see many people go lighter, at least not by choice. If you're worried about the flex, you might want to just look at DG S400s. I know it boring, but there's a reason 95% of tour guys use them. The ascending weight would still match up and they will be a little softer than the 130x for better touch and feel.

Yep. Just a strap hinge from the hardware store epoxied to the end. Slightly cheaper than a specialized club ruler.