Arthur

You might go to Clark Howard's web site. He's a consumer advocate and has a radio talk show. He deals with a lot of similar issues. One thing he advises is to send a letter (certified) asking for copies of all documentation showing the details of this "debt". Also something about if they report a bogus debt to a credit reporting agency you will suit them to the fullest extent of the law. I don't remember all the details but you should be able to ferret it out on his website.

I thought you could mark your ball anywhere on the course if it were interfering with another players swing, or by his request if your ball would interfere with his intended shot. Just could not clean the ball without penalty. So if two balls ended up touching each other in the fairway player a could mark and lift his ball just not clean it. If players a ball is on the fringe and player b's ball is in such a position that he intends to chip or pitch his ball where it would land close to player's a ball he could request that player a mark his ball. Anyway that was my understanding. Also during a tournament a rain delay or such that will carry over into the next day, all players mark there ball if they don't choose to play out the hole if that is still an option.

db you may very well be right on in your assessment, on the other hand robotic equipment cutting and shaping metal can meet amazing tolerances. When reading or researching something I always consider the motivation of the person. In this case to me he is talking like is the only one who has the answers and if you want to get the right equipment then you need to buy it from him. Not saying he is wrong just suspect in my eyes because of self interest. Would mean a lot more if he had nothing financial to gain from what he is saying. Having said that, the old wooden drivers definitely would play different, one Macgreagor model driver might our perform another driver of the same exact specs. But then wood is different from medal in grain patterns, density and the fact that a lot of them were hand carved. So I can believe it in wood heads, not so much metal heads. Just my two cents and I'm sure many out there will disagree with me which is fine.

Here's another option though it may be a bit pricey for you. http://www.golf-mats.net/?gclid=CJus...odWmPuzg#order

Here's a bit of advice that helped stop my slicing. (PM me for the source) Try setting up with your ball on your instep and driver club head in the center of your stance. Why? Because when you place the club head behind the ball when it's forward in your stance it can cause you to set up with your shoulders open a bit which can lead to an out to in club path. This may not apply to you but doing this has cured my slicing the driver so bad it was getting where I couldn't afford to play golf because of all the lost balls. Like I said this worked for me, it may or may not work for you. Good luck and keep the good thoughts going.

Not having warm weather gear and my bones aching in cold weather, around 50 degrees is my limit. That being said if the sun is out the wind calm can go if colder. Like an earlier poster said when it's not fun.

Anybody remember those tees with half a plastic cup on top guaranteed to cure a slice?

Golf is a game and supposed to be fun. If you aren't having fun or meshing with who you're playing with then maybe it is time to find a new group. You could have a conversation with those in the group that you enjoy playing with and let them know how you feel. Who knows they may want to split off into a smaller group with you.

One thought on FootJoy as far as I know they are the only non custom fit shoe maker that makes shoes in different widths. Which is good for me because I can't wear the standard width.

Would rather have the real thing than that knock off. My guess is for performance is not as good as the new metal drivers and maybe would not out perform the true wood drivers. Anybody can put a higher price on something then mark it down for sale. In my experience cheap clubs perform like cheap clubs.

Lee Trevino and Jack Nicklause both hit a push fade and controlled it by aiming left. New ball flight rules say that an out to in swing path with an open club face relative to the path creates a push fade, as I understand it. The open club face would give a higher ball flight and thus less roll so more control in the air. Having said that this is my understanding and it may be wrong, as I often am according to She Who Must Be Obeyed.

The best bit of advice I can give you is find a single iron blade in a six or seven iron and use it at practice for a while. If you like it then try to find an old 4 or 3 iron and try it. It keeps your costs down and gives you a good feel for the clubs.

Even if they count it as a stroke?

Could call the club house and have them arrested for trespassing if a private course. If public maybe disturbing the peace.

Thanks for the Andrew Rice videos. Will try that next chance I get.

As I understand the ball flight rules a push-dray is caused by an open club face (push) and an in to out swing (draw). As a rough guess I would suggest moving the ball a touch toward your front foot to lessen the curve.

So would a custom shaft help someone with an R swing speed? Have thought about custom shafts and there is a Golf Smith nearby. So do you get fitted by the regular staff or have to pay 99 dollars for the fitting/lesson store inside?

Just curious, from your handicap ranking it seems you scored lower than you would playing from your normal tees. Do you think the difference was having a shorter approach shot into the green or did you have an exceptionally good short game going today or do you need to update your handicap? The reason I ask is that the pro I was taking lessons from kept saying scoring only occurs from 100 yards in, while I find my driver and woods mishits can cost me two or three strokes before I get into range. We have argued over that and I'm working on getting a reaptable working swing for my mid irons to my driver and once I get that sorted out I know my scores will drop if not like a rock at least like a day old helium balloon.

One way to find out is to try it. One word of caution is that it sounds more like a band-aid than a cure. It seems that the shorter clubs are more forgiving with swing faults than the longer ones. Might want to get a lesson from a pro and see where you can improve your ball striking. Just my humble opinion and I am sure more knowledgeable and wiser heads can give you more concrete advice.

A couple of ideas my pro shared with me. Keep track of your stats: Fwys hit Green in Regulation chips/pitches putts. This will let you know where your strokes are leaking. Next he told me to break 90 you only need to shoot bogey golf. When your on the tee box look to see what two shots would put you at the optimum distance for your favorite club and plan from that. One thing I do is look at the scorecard and plan my shots before hand to give me the best chance to go low. An example is we have a short par 5 that has a hazzard about 150 yards from the green. Recently I found out that I could get there with a 5 iron and pitching or sand wedge leaving 150 to the green. This works better for me than driver (lost ball) and if my driver does by some miracle find the fairway, three wood into the hazzard or high right into the woods and lost ball. Hope that helps.

I would love to try to hit blades, just two things hold me back. Almost all the used blades come in a stiff shaft and my swing speed isn't enough to play with a stiff shaft. (Keep the jokes to minimum please) The second is after talking my wife into letting me get my Callaway x 22 tour irons 3 months ago it will be to frosty if I were to spend money on new irons. Especially since I need new woods and wedges so I'll be happy with my irons and live with the accuracy issue. Though I am a bit envious of those of you who can play blades. Good luck to you all no matter what you play.

Love the video Nick. Wish I could vote for it. Great way to condense and simplify. Also love the driver draw tip.

Might check google and see if there are any custom club builders in your area. Think they would only charge for the clubs and might fit each club. Don't know for sure but might be worth a look.

There is a lot of 4000 vintage golf clubs on sale at E-Bay if anyone is interested in starting a store. Out of my price range unfortunetly. Here's the link if anyone is interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/LOT-40000-OLD-VI...ht_6395wt_1057

A lot of times when I play in the morning I have to hit directly into a rising sun which makes seeing the ball all but impossible. I doubt using a yellow ball would help and I'm willing to try just about anything including playing in the heat of the day. Any thoughts if an other than a white ball would help>