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Posted
I was just wondering, when should you get blades instead of cavity-backs?
I’ve been “blading” (replacing with blades) my irons in the past few years (blades from the PW to the 8-Iron, cavity backs irons 4-7).

I’ve been thinking I should buy a set of blades since I feel quite comfortable with them, but I don’t know if that is asking too much. I’m quite straight with my irons, getting good distance, etc. As any player around the 14 handicap, I obviously need some kind of forgiveness, but I admit I’m not too desperate on improving my game in x-strokes in the next years or so, so I wouldn’t mind waisting a shot or two.

Any feed back? What would you think?

Thanks mates

Cheers…

Posted
I think that if you want to take you game to the next level then you should upgrade to the control of blades or players cavity backs (ex. MP-57, AP2) because they will allow you to shape shots the way you want, but if you still just want to hit a straight ball every time then stay with the cavity backs because they seem to be working now.
In the blue and tan grom Bag:

Driver r7 460 10.5*
Fairway Woods '07 Burner 15* and 18*
Irons 4-PW r7 XDWedges 47*, 52*, 58* CG14,Putter TiffanyBall One Tour D

Posted
Everyone should have a set of blades just to challenge themselves. I even got the 1 iron to go with my Apex blades. Not to mention you can pick up awesome vintage clubs dirt cheap. I play with mine pretty regularly, and it really doesn't seem to hurt my score that much (but I usually don't play the 1).

"You can foment revolution or you can cure your slice - life is too short for both" David Owen

WITB*: 2010 winter edition

Driver: AyrtimeFW/hybrid: Distance Master Pro Steel 5w, 7w, 27* hybridIrons: Powerplay 5000 hybrids (6i-SW)Wedge: SMT Durometer 55 degPutter: Z/I Omega mallet*as soon...


Posted
There was a good article in this month's Golf Digest discussing this very topic. One of the questions was do golfers need to be good to play blades or do they become good by playing blades? There have been other threads, too. I just think it comes down to preference and how you want to play. What's the worst that can happen by making a switch?

Titleist 905T Accra SC75 M4 Shaft

Nike SQ 4W Accra T70 M4 Shaft
HB001 17* Hybrid with Mitsubishi Diamana Thump X Stiff Flex
Baffler Pro 20* Accra Axiv 105 Tour Hybrid Shaft

Taylor Made 24* Burner Accra Axiv 105 Tour Hybrid Shaft

Mizuno MP-32 5-PW Black Oxide Finish Project X 6.0 Shafts

Vokey 52* Oil Can Finish TTDG S400 Shaft

Cleveland 588 60* TTDG S400 Shaft

Rife Bimini Blade Putter

 

Ball-White and Round

 


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Posted
I got a set when I saw a used set of Hogans in good condition for around $100. You don't have to play them all time. It's definitely worth the experience to feel how they play. I'm not sure if playing with different irons makes you a better player, but it sure makes you a better informed one. Switch and experiment.

Steve

Kill slow play. Allow walking. Reduce ineffective golf instruction. Use environmentally friendly course maintenance.

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Posted
The only real way to find out if you're ready for blades is to demo a set see how they feel.

Driver: Hi-Bore XL 8.5* X-Stiff

3 Wood: ORLIMAR VT830 15* Stiff

Irons: RPM Undercut OS 4-GW Sand Wedge: CG 10 54*Lob Wedge: 588 60*Putter: White Steel 2-Ball CS Ball: NXTBag: IDEA Stand Bag


Posted
The only real way to find out if you're ready for blades is to demo a set see how they feel.

x2, I thought I could hit blades, and for fun gave them a try. I didn't know if it was that day or not, buy I tried the 695 MB's from titleist and I could not hit one solid shot, It felt sooo weird.

In My Bag

Driver: Sasquatch 460 9.5°
3 Wood: Laser 3 Wood 15°
5 Wood: r7 19° (Stiff)Irons: S58 Irons 4-PW Orange DotWedge: Harmonized 60°Wedge: Z TP 54°Putter: Tiffany 34"Balls: Pro V1 Shoes: Adidas Tour 360 IIThe Meadows Golf Coursewww.themeadowsgc.comAge: 16

Posted
If its above a 6 iron..never..lol. But seriously, I think switching to a players club about a year or so after I began the game really sped up my learning of ballstriking. Cavity or not, you have to hit most players irons in the center of the clubface or you're dead. Game improvement clubs often mask your faults at impact. Some of them even prevent you from hitting down and through the ball with their crazy soles, and thats not good. I think its best to shove some blades into a players hand when they are still junior golfers. Or even have them begin the game using blades, they wont know better anyway, right?

But at the same time a friend of mine, who is a A+ player, (3 index at least) played blades for 20 years but switched to a more forgiving ping iron over the winter. Now he is just hitting the ball apeshit with those things.
THE WEAPONS CACHE..

Titleist 909 D2 9.5 Degree Driver| Titleist 906f4 13.5 degree 3-Wood | Titleist 909 17 & 21 degree hybrid | Titleist AP2 irons
Titleist Vokey Wedges - 52 & 58 | Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 Putter | ProV1 Ball

Posted
I'm not sure its every really a good time to go to blade irons. With the advantages of cavity back irons it almost doesn't seem worth the switch. How many people go back to the smaller headed drivers because they can work the ball better? Until you are a master with your irons you have now I would stay away from blades. When you do want to make a switch, switch to something that is close to a blade but still has a cavity.

Posted
When you do want to make a switch, switch to something that is close to a blade but still has a cavity.

For example, the Ping S58's, or the Titleist Ap2's

In My Bag

Driver: Sasquatch 460 9.5°
3 Wood: Laser 3 Wood 15°
5 Wood: r7 19° (Stiff)Irons: S58 Irons 4-PW Orange DotWedge: Harmonized 60°Wedge: Z TP 54°Putter: Tiffany 34"Balls: Pro V1 Shoes: Adidas Tour 360 IIThe Meadows Golf Coursewww.themeadowsgc.comAge: 16

Posted
Thanks mates.

Another question, is there really a big difference between what they call "super improvement irons” and just “improvement irons”? (Let’s say, between Mizuno’s MX-25 and Mizuno’s Mx-950). Or for example in clubs like PING’s, what’s the significant difference between G10s and i10s or TItleist AP1 to AP2? Yes, one is supposed to "forgive" more but is there a real difference?

Cheers...

Posted
Other than the fact that blades are beautiful, I don't think anyone ever really needs a blade. It's more of an ego thing in my opinion.

In the
AMP Cart Bag
Driver : 3Dx Square Tour 8°
3 Wood : 4DX
2H : Edge CFT TitaniumIrons : M685 3-PWWedges : CG12 Satin 54° and 58°Putter : Odyssey White XG #9 33"Balls : Staff ZIP


Posted
Well the G10 is a more forgiving iron than the i10. The i10 might be a good choice if you want to switch to something closer to a blade.

Posted
Next year I am going to go for a full set of new name-brand irons and I absolutely love the look of Mizuno forged blades. The only problem is, I don't know if I will actually learn to play better by using them, or if I'd just get frustrated and switch to something forgiving. It probably would just be an ego thing to own some...

Posted
I'm learning on forged blades because that is all I have right now. When I strike the ball correctly, it feels good. When I don't, it feels baaaaaad.

In my Warbird Hot:
Driver: Burner 10.5* Reg Flex
3 Wood: Mercury Golf MR Jumbo 16*
Irons: X-20 4-AW
Putter: 33" Rossa FontanaShoes:Footjoy Contour


Posted
i do agree that feedback is really important with clubs. Even though the feedback on a bad blade shot is bad, its still not good with a cavity. You can always tell when you hit the butter sweet spot of the club.

Tour Burner 9.5 w real Diamana 63 S
906f4 15.5 Proforce V2 S
909H 19 Diamana S
755 4-PW
Vokey 50/56/60Yes! NatalieBushnell Medalist w/ PinseekerI'll play just about any ball


Posted
My advice is to switch to the blades. I just made the switch a little while ago. It was an eyeopener at first, but I soon saw my handicap dropping.( I was around a 15-16 when I switched) I really enjoy being able to push the ball around the course. Blades really open up some cool shot choices.

You won't hit them as consistently straight, unless your practicing every day, however.

I shoot blades for the same reason I hunt whitetail deer with a traditional longbow.

Posted
I am on the fence about this one. I've seen blades hurt many more people than I've seen them help. Some people say that it helps them work the ball, but I've never had problems working the ball without them. Some people say that it helps them control trajectory, but I think 98% of the time, higher is better than lower, and 98% of golfers who think they hit it high don't hit it as high as they think they do. Some people say that it helps to groove their swing. This, I can see, but it really doesn't help me personally. I don't hit good shots when I miss the sweetspot with any club, let alone a muscle back. Not to mention that the majority of the PGA, Nationwide, Hooters, NCAA, etc. do not play true muscle backs all the way through the set.

Turf interaction is my only pet peeve about my current irons. They don't really dig it out of a bad lie like a blade would. However, you can get blade-like turf interaction in a non-blade club, I just don't currently have it.

So, with all the negatives, why am I on the fence? Blades are the sexiest thing in golf (including the best the LPGA has to offer). You'd look about 12-33 points cooler walking down the fairway...

Unfortunately, I am not really good enough to benefit from playing them; but if you are, I say buy some!

In the Bag:

Driver: FT-5 Tour 9.5*; Grafalloy PL Red
FW Wood: X 17*; Stock shaft
Hybrid: X 21*; Fujikura BanzaiIrons: X-18 Pro Series; S300Wedges: X forged 56* & 60*balls; tees; like $20 in change; chapstick; bugspray; a bunch of wrappers and such.


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    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • When you've been teaching golf as long as I have, you're going to find that you can teach some things better than you previously had, and you're probably going to find some things that you taught incorrectly. I don't see that as a bad thing — what would be worse is refusing to adapt and grow given new information. I've always said that my goal with my instruction isn't to be right, but it's to get things right. To that end, I'm about five years late in issuing a public proclamation on something… When I first got my GEARS system, I immediately looked at the golf swings of the dozens and dozens of Tour players for which I suddenly had full 3D data. I created a huge spreadsheet showing how their bodies moved, how the club moved, at various points in the swing. I mapped knee and elbow angles, hand speeds, shoulder turns and pelvis turns… etc. I re-considered what I thought I knew about the golf swing as performed by the best players. One of those things dated back to the earliest days: that you extend (I never taught "straighten" and would avoid using that word unless in the context of saying "don't fully straighten") the trail knee/leg in the backswing. I was mislead by 2D photos from less-than-ideal camera angles — the trail leg rotates a bit during the backswing, and so when observing trail knee flex should also use a camera that moves to stay perpendicular to the plane of the ankle/knee/hip joint. We have at least two topics here on this (here and here; both of which I'll be updating after publishing this) where @mvmac and I advise golfers to extend the trail knee. Learning that this was not right is one of the reasons I'm glad to have a 3D system, as most golfers generally preserve the trail knee flex throughout the backswing. Data Here's a video showing an iron and a driver of someone who has won the career slam: Here's what the graph of his right knee flex looks like. 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    • Day 135 12-25 Wide backswing to wide downswing drill. Recorder and used mirror. 
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