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Posted
As my game's continued to evolve its apparent where my strengths and weakness lie. I'm a very good iron and wedge player (full wedges, short game shots I'm still working on) but I can't seem to get into any kind of grove with the driver. I have a pretty steep swing and hit down on the ball with my irons. This produces a high and far ball flight, but with the woods its a disaster. My hybrid also gives me the same problem, a lot the time I just pop it up. Sometimes I'm able to swing the hybrid more around my body then vertically, and this produces a solid draw. I'm looking for some advice on how to get back to hitting the driver well.

In the bag:
Driver: r7 quad v2 stiff
3-Wood: XLS
Hybrid: X
Irons: CG Golds 3-GWSW: x forged 56/13LW: Vokey sm 60/.08Putter: Callie 35''Ball: pro v1


Posted
If you pop your ball up in the air with the driver, try to take your backswing brushing the ground for the first foot and not lifting up, check your ball position and ball height on your driver, I have recently placing the top of the ball no higher than the crown of the driver and also placing the ball position 2 ball back of my front heel and I have lowered my ball flight slightly and it might work for you too. Another thing that you might try is at address give your club a slight forward press so that your club shaft is not behind your hands but in front at address and the start of your backswing. Lastly, start your take away with a one piece take away and not with your arms but with your arms and your shoulder as one unit.

In summary:
1) one piece take away
2) slight forward press at address
3) check ball position and 2-3 balls back from the front heel
4) ball height, top of the ball is equal to top of the driver crown

try it and let me know if it helps. :)

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
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Posted
I have 2 distinctive swings. My irons swing is steeper, whereas my woods (especially driver) is more 'round'. Essentially, I driver and woods swing is more of a one-plane swing and I have found that works very well for me - drives are fairly long and tend to be straight or with slight draw (whereas irons tend to have a slight fade). Hybrids swing is a bit different than both as it's kind of a combination of the 2 swings. The main thing with driver is to keep my grip and arms soft and take driver back low and slow, always trying to keep the driver head as far away from my body as is possible throughout the swing.

At the end of last year I tried to get all of my clubs on more of a one-plane swing and it just didn't work for me. That was too flat for my irons, but it's the perfect swing for driver and woods.
Driver: SQ DYMO STR8-Fit
4 Wood: SQ DYMO
2H (17*), 4H (23*) & 5H (26*): Fli-Hi CLK
Irons (5-6): MX-900; (7-PW): MP-60
Wedges (51/6*): MP-T Chrome; (56/13): MP-R ChromePutter: White Hot XG 2-Ball CSPreferred Ball: e5+/e7+/B330-RXGPS Unit: NEOPush Cart: 2.0

Posted
stevie should be the one you are hitting, woods is not responsible for those comments

They will beat their swords into golf clubs and their spears into putters. Nation will not take up sword against nation, nor will they train for war anymore. Old Tom Morris 2:4


Posted
The longer the club the further forward in the stance the ball should be, the more upright your posture and of course the further the ball will be away from you. I don't know if anyone agrees but I think a steep swing plane with a driver is a killer.

My Clubs
Nicklaus Progressive XC Irons: 3H,4H, 5-GW
Ray Cook SW & Gyro 1 Putter
Taylor Made Burner Driver 10.5
Taylor Made V-Steel 3 & 5 MetalsMy Home Course: Indian RiverMy Blog: Rant-o-Rama-Ding-Dong


Posted
like pikapp23 said... i also have 2 distinct swings... you might wanna just hit the range and blast some balls around with your long clubs trying different things that ppl are suggesting... ball placement... stance... etc etc
RUSS's avg drive - 230yrds and climbing

Posted
Chances are good that your upper body is moving forward in the downswing to produce a steep angle of attack. This is good for iron shots, but bad for the driver. Focus really hard on keeping your upper body and head behind the ball when you hit your driver and that will promote an ascending strike, which is ideal for the driver. When my driver isn't working I can usually fix it by focusing on staying behind the ball.

Cleveland Hi-bore 9.5* stiff, Taylormade Burner T3 14.5* stiff, Mizuno mp 32 3-PW, Nike SV Tour Black Satin 52, 56, 60* wedges, Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 35 inches
In the market for a new driver, then my bag will be the shiz.


Posted
Keep it simple and fundemental, keep your balance, and concentrate on hitting the ball. Work on your tempo, don't try to swing to fast.

Eventually, I'll get the hint and stop advertising, which is against the rules.


Posted
  ganjagolfer said:
stevie should be the one you are hitting, woods is not responsible for those comments

Very good!

Home Course: Wollaton Park GC, Nottingham, U.K.

Ping G400, 9°, Alta CB 55S | Ping G400, 14°, Alta CB 65S | Adams Pro Dhy 18°, 21°, 24°, KBS Hybrid S | Ping S55 5-PW, TT DGS300 | Vokey 252-08, DGS200 | Vokey 256-10 (bent to 58°), DGS200 | Ping Sigma G Anser, 34" | Vice Pro Plus

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Posted
Hi there,

I'm newish to the game, so I am not preaching, but I was at the range a week or so ago for a group lesson. I explained that my irons shots were ok (ish!!), but my driver shots were, let's say, not so good. By miles!! The information I was given was to put my feet further apart. I heard "keep going, keep going", until I felt almost uncomfortable. I took a swing and the ball flew. I am sure this is not the only reason for not hitting properly, but I hope it provides food for thought.

Along with all the other advice above. I'm taking all that on board too.

Thanks to you all.

Posted
Thanks for the advice guys, unfortunately I will not be getting a chance to try it out for some time. We got about a foot of snow over the past few days :(

In the bag:
Driver: r7 quad v2 stiff
3-Wood: XLS
Hybrid: X
Irons: CG Golds 3-GWSW: x forged 56/13LW: Vokey sm 60/.08Putter: Callie 35''Ball: pro v1


Note: This thread is 6115 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • All great info. Thanks for the reply. 
    • Yea, it's more complicated than your high school projectile motion equations.  I am thinking it could increase under certain conditions. A gust of wind blowing in the same direction as the spin, causing more high and low pressure on the ball in a certain way that it increases the spin?  It has zero vertical velocity at its apex. So, it is all velocity caused by gravity for the vertical component.  Yea, landing angle is a big thing.  It is parabolic. Your apex is 90 yards in the air. A 30-yard elevated green is 1/3rd that height. At the apex, your vertical descent angle is zero, it should be horizontal. So, you are going from zero theta to let's say 45 degrees. Even if it was linear, let's say you're landing angle is close to 30 degrees. That is less than a driver and probably is significant.  Yea, it depends on how you hit it. Especially for downhill shots. If you hit a flighted shot, it might react more like a normal shot because of the lower launch and lower apex relative to your position. Versus a normal shot might come in at like 70 degrees, instead of 45 degrees.       
    • Wordle 1,553 3/6 ⬜🟨🟨🟨🟨 ⬜🟨🟩🟨🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • Spin will decay slightly over time, but not by a lot. The horizontal portion of the velocity will also decay due to air resistance. The vertical component will be increasing since the ball is accelerating due to gravity (albeit that the spin is creating lift, which will counteract that some). Neither of those has much of an impact of how the ball will react. The biggest difference is the vertical land angle. The angle theta prime (not sure how to show that on here) will be shallower than theta. That means the ball will stop faster at theta than at theta prime. The other thing is because there is still a horizontal component to the velocity, it will carry less far at theta prime than at theta.  The effects of those two things work in opposite directions. Which one "wins" will depend on ground conditions, ball flight, spin, any necessary carry distances, etc. Fortunately the margins are fairly small so you can wing it with enough experience. The calculation of the carry distance change is what your range finder estimates when you have slope turned on.
    • So, I was looking at this image and wondered what the best way is to play your approach to an elevated green versus a lowered green. Is the spin and velocity profile at θ' much different than at θ? I don't know the physics of it but to my wee brain, it would seem that at θ' the spin would be higher but velocity lower. At θ the spin would seem to be lower but velocity higher since it has more time to fall from its peak where it would be zero. Even the image below is off visually since we know the arc of the ball flight isn't consistent throughout.    It's okay if you tell me I'm overthinking this. 😂  
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