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Posted
It seems like it would be the head, but a local pro says it's the shaft.

Also, my clubs have crappy old and mismatched grips, but they're comfotable to me. Should they re-gripped anyway?

Posted
Actually, I think it's the part just above the shaft.

In My Bag:
SQ Dymo2 10.5
SQ Dymo2 15
a2 3-PW
Tom Watson Wedges 52, 56, 60 Unitized Retro 33"


Posted
Yes, the part above the shaft and the brain that controls those parts. Definitely regrip. It is cheap, easy to do yourself if you want to.

Overall, I would say the clubface and shaft are equal in importance. What the pro is emphasizing is that shaft quality hah hah hahmmmm, is often overlooked.

HiBore XLS Tour 9.5*
Adams Fast10 15* 3W
A2OS 3H-7iron 60* LW
8iron Precept Tour Premium cb
9iron and 45* PW 50* GW 56* SW m565 and 455 VfoilPutter Anser Belly Putter Ball in order of preference TPblack e5 V2  AD333


Posted
I agree with the others; it has to be the grip. It is the only part of your body that the club actually touches.
I play the drums as well. The most important parts are the throne (stool), hi-hat stand, and bass drum pedal. They, too, are the only things that your body touches (besides sticks).

It could be the shaft instead, depending on who you talk to.

In my Ogio Ozone Bag:
TM Superquad 9.5* UST Proforce 77g Stiff
15* Sonartec SS-2.5 (Pershing stiff)
19* TM Burner (stock stiff)
4-U - PING i10 White dot, +1.25 inches, ZZ65 stiff shafts55*/11* Snake Eyes Form Forged (DGS300)60*/12* Snake Eyes Form Forged (DGS300)Ping i10 1/2 MoonTitleist ProV1


Posted
The shaft is the engine of your club. I suppose the grip is the tire of the car.

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1


Posted
I've heard before that you could buy the cheapest component head, but put a quality shaft in it and it will perform just as well as the more expensive equipment (I don't know how much I believe this, but still...)

Grips are very important since, as 'denver_nuggs' says, they are the only part of the club you have contact with. Grips are cheap and could even be replaced by you if you wanted (I do my own and have no special tools except a grip removal tool). Or you can go to a golf store or club fitter and they can do it for you. Usually grips are $2-8 each and installation is typically only a few dollars each. I think it's good to have all of the grips the same throughout the set. However, if your current grips are comfortable to you and the club is not slipping during your swing, then it may not be as important. Some people like grips that others would consider worn out.
Driver: SQ DYMO STR8-Fit
4 Wood: SQ DYMO
2H (17*), 4H (23*) & 5H (26*): Fli-Hi CLK
Irons (5-6): MX-900; (7-PW): MP-60
Wedges (51/6*): MP-T Chrome; (56/13): MP-R ChromePutter: White Hot XG 2-Ball CSPreferred Ball: e5+/e7+/B330-RXGPS Unit: NEOPush Cart: 2.0

Posted
I think the shaft is the transmission. You, as the golfer, are the engine.

The shaft must match the golfer.

The head is less important (I can now hit blades, cavities but I choose to keep my current clubs).

STR8 Dymo 10.5
Dymo 3W
Mid Rescue 3
MP-33 4-PW
Eidolon 52* GW LW, SW Titleist Bullseye Putter


Posted
Assuming your grip is good, then the shaft is the most important part of your club. If you have a great club head and a terrible shaft that doesnt fit your game, then u wont hit it good.

Posted
Shaft is most important... but everything is important to an extent...

worn grips are slippery and reduce feel, cause a bad grip, etc
wrong size grips cause mild fades and draws, and reduce feel
unmatched shaft can make a club nearly unplayable... just won't work
new technology helps, especially in driver heads... more forgiveness, etc.
iron heads should be matched to player ability... GI irons much easier to hit for some than blades

MOST IMPORTANT THING... the thing swinging the club, especially the part betwen his/her ears
My Clubs: Callaway FT-i Tour LCG 9.5° w/ Matrix Ozik Xcon 6 stiff; Sonartec GS Tour 14° w/ Graphite Design Red Ice 70 stiff; Adams Idea Pro 2h(18°) & 3h(20°) w/ Aldila VS Proto 80 stiff; Adams Idea Pro Forged 4-PW w/ TT Black Gold stiff; Cleveland CG12 DSG RTG 52°-10° & 58°-10°; Odyssey...

Posted

I think the most important part of the club is the price tag. If it is too big then I typically want it badly but can't have it. If it is too small I find myself considering it garbage and typically don't want it.

-E

In my Grom bag:

Driver........... Burner 9.5* S-Flex
3-Wood......... Burner 15* S-Flex
5-Wood......... Ovation 18* S-FlexIrons............. Pro Combos 3,5-PW Rifle 6.0Wedges......... CG12 52.10, 56.14, 60.10Putter............ 33" VP1 Milled PutterBall................ e6+ or B330-SRangefinder.....


Posted

Id say the shaft and grip. For instance the grip on my 58* wedge is completely worn down so I have almost no feel because I have to concentrate on holding onto the thing

In My Hank Haney IJGA Bag
Driver: FT Tour 9.5 w/ Aldila Voodoo Stiff
3 Wood: i15 15.5 w/ avixcore red stiff
Hybrids: Rescue 09 19, 22 w/ fujikara fit on stiff
Irons: 4 & 5 MP-52, 6-PW MP-58 w/ KBS Tour Stiff Wedges: MP T-10 52*, 58* w/ KBS Tour StiifPutter: Fastback 1 34 inBall: : Pro...


Posted
grip and shaft for sure the heads dont matter much at all i have a 4 year old driver with a fit shaft rapes all new drivers out even ones with the blu board white board and red board
and even the ones with the proforce v2 in it i am just way better with my 400cc head size and i hit it farther then every driver out there and to the guys talking bout irons a good player can hit anything but a bad player cant hit blades

driver. taylormade tour burner tp ust avixcore tour green 75 x
3 wood 909 f3 13* voodo xnv8
3 hybrid adams idea pro vs proto 95x
irons 3 no 4 5-pw nike cci forged blades
gap wedge nike sv tour blacksand wedge cg14 56* 14flopadopolous vokey spin milled 64 7putter scotty cameron classics newport...


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