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Why do "Draw" drivers cost less than standard drivers?


Note: This thread is 5496 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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Posted
I own the TaylorMade R7 Draw and I paid $149 last year. Why do their "standard" counterparts usually cost $50 more? Am I buying a less effective club? I thought that a draw is optimal in golf and will allow you to hit the ball farther. Any information would be helpful.

Posted
Not sure exactly but perhaps it's because draw drivers are often marketed at the more casual golfer who fights a slice and doesn't have the time or is not willing to make the effort to improve their swing. The cheaper price might be aimed at getting this golfer to be more likely to pull the trigger and make the purchase?

Posted
It would make sense that golf companies would lower the price to entice a casual golfer who is fighting a slice.

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Posted
That's what I would think too - trying to entice the average Joe. But I haven't noticed a price difference across the board. Are you sure it wasn't just on sale or last year's model?

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Posted
I think more of them get returned, flooding the used market, which would mean a depressing of the prices of the new clubs. I think people return them because they dont magically fix a slice, or create a draw.

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Posted
I think more of them get returned, flooding the used market, which would mean a depressing of the prices of the new clubs.

Amen! IMO, it's just another gimmick to sell more clubs. All I ever got from hitting a draw driver was a smothered hook. To hit it straight, I had to rotate the club so far open that it added at least 5 degrees of loft to the face... like hitting a lob driver.

Rick

"He who has the fastest cart will never have a bad lie."

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Posted
Amen! IMO, it's just another gimmick to sell more clubs. All I ever got from hitting a draw driver was a smothered hook. To hit it straight, I had to rotate the club so far open that it added at least 5 degrees of loft to the face... like hitting a lob driver.

absolutely RIGHT ON. I met someone that works for Taylormade last year. I won't give his name b/c...well he's a "industry person." He said the draw biased driver is for the weekend duffer that doesn't play much and has a chronic slice. instead of actually correcting their swing and spending time working on that...they want that quick fix...or something that'll seem like a quick fix. it's all a marketing scheme he said to me.

"A slice swing is a slice swing....we sell/market draw-biased clubs to that demographic of golfers that are casual players that want the quick fix, will put it towards something that they think will fix their game. but don't be fooled...it's all just marketing."
DJ Yoshi
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Posted
That makes sense. I do often hit pull hooks with my club. I have never really had a major slice problem. I just bought the club because I was able to afford having a TaylorMade r7 for $149.99. I'm wondering if I should switch to a regular club to see if there is any difference with my shots. Thanks for the insight fellas.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I don't recall seeing "draw-biased" drivers at a lower price than the "standard" counterpart... but given that a "draw" driver rarely performs as advertised, it would make sense that it should cost less.


Posted

I think in this case it may be more of flushing out the inventory on a product that did not sell as well as anticipated.  Usually they all start out at the same price.

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Posted

Based on ball-flight laws, isn't a draw driver going to actually INCREASE the slice for a lot of golfers? Closing the face on a slice swing is going to jack the spin rate up BIG time, increasing the sidespin and, thus, the slice. Or not?

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Posted


Originally Posted by ohiolefty

Based on ball-flight laws, isn't a draw driver going to actually INCREASE the slice for a lot of golfers? Closing the face on a slice swing is going to jack the spin rate up BIG time, increasing the sidespin and, thus, the slice. Or not?



I'd say not. Possibly indirectly it would, since the player may compensate for the extra pulls, and pull-hooks, by aiming even farther left.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Note: This thread is 5496 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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