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Posted
My Irons are hit pretty straight. What can I be doing that making me slice only my driver. I understand Im not getting the club face squared but what are a few things that you can suggest I can do to work on getting the club faced squared. Any drills will help! thanks

In my Slingshot Bag:

Driver Big Bertha 10.5

Woods 3 WoodHybrids Hybrid 3 Iron 20ºIrons CCi 4-AWWedge Custom Systems Wedge 56ºPutter Karsten B60


Posted
Have someone watch you swing plane. Do you come over the top with it or does the ball start out straight and slice to the right? There is a different feel to a driver than an iron. Longer swing, faster swing. The clubface is open, so you could stop during the swing to check the wrist position. Not on the downswing of course. Try swinging very slowly and making sure your don't cup the left wrist or rotate the arms over in the backswing.

Ogio Grom | Callaway X Hot Pro | Callaway X-Utility 3i | Mizuno MX-700 23º | Titleist Vokey SM 52.08, 58.12 | Mizuno MX-700 15º | Titleist 910 D2 9,5º | Scotty Cameron Newport 2 | Titleist Pro V1x and Taylormade Penta | Leupold GX-1

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Posted
driver is the longest club so it will exaggerate the slightest error. it can be a number of things.. if your timing is off your lower body can block it and make it impossible to get it back around. Try thinking of a baseball swing after impact... the rolling over of the wrists... that is what you want through the ball with a driver. a good drill is to just make sure your feet are squared up to your target..(always have a specific target) and swing down your feet line.

Putter first 
:titleist: newport 2 oil can
:titleist: 58* SM4
:titleist: 54* SM4
:titleist: 50* SM4
:titleist: 4-pw AP2 project X 6.0
:ping: i20 9.5 TFC Stiff


Posted
describe your slice for us.

is it going left then severe right?

is it going straight then right

is it just straight right?

is it curving right from impact?

is it pushing right then curving more right?
In my Warbird Hot Stand Bag:

Driver: R9 420cc 9.5° stiff
3 Wood: Burner 07 Fairway #3 Stiff
5 Wood: Burner 07 Fairway #5 Stiff3 Hybrid: Burner 08 Rescue #3 StiffIrons: MX-25 4-G Project X 5.5SW: CG12 STD bounce 56° Black PearlLW: CG12 STD bounce 60° Black PearlPutter: California...

Posted
I'm not the OP, but mine is going left then severe right. Obviously an out to in swing path, but I can't figure out what to do. I have tried closing my stance (bringing my right foot back) and I still slice it pretty bad, it just starts out more straight. Any tips on closing the club face?

In an old bag:

Driver Hibore XLS 10.5*
3 Wood V Steel 15*
Hybrid 3DX 20*Irons Ta5 3 - PWWedge CG10 56 degreePutter Classic 1


Posted
I'm not the OP, but mine is going left then severe right. Obviously an out to in swing path, but I can't figure out what to do. I have tried closing my stance (bringing my right foot back) and I still slice it pretty bad, it just starts out more straight. Any tips on closing the club face?

Focus/practice shifting your weight onto your left foot as you come down and through the ball. Use a club, or you can even use a towel to exaggerate your shoulder turn and feel your weight shift. Whenever I start slicing my driver (usually hit a slight draw), the culprit is me staying back on my right foot, probably from trying to overswing. Focus on a nice smooth transition and weight shift-eliminates any slicing from me 98% of the time.


Posted
driver is the longest club so it will exaggerate the slightest error. it can be a number of things.. if your timing is off your lower body can block it and make it impossible to get it back around. Try thinking of a baseball swing after impact... the rolling over of the wrists... that is what you want through the ball with a driver. a good drill is to just make sure your feet are squared up to your target..(always have a specific target) and swing down your feet line.

This is the right way to try to correct a slice. Don't get too technical, just imagine swinging a baseball bat. Make you practice swings at a level where you can imagine a baseball being pitched to you. You'll have better balance, you'll be more likely to be on plane, and square with your shoulders and feet to your target line. You need to swing around you body.

Driver= Titleist 909D3 9.5 deg
3 Wood= Titleist 909F3 15 deg
Hybrid= Adams Idea Pro Black 19 deg
Irons 3-P= Titleist 695 CB
Wedges= Titleist Vokey Spin Mill 54/10, 60/4Putter= Titleist Scotty Cameron Newport 1.5Ball= Titleist ProV1x, NXT Tour


Posted
i fixed my slice by practicing my driver swing in slow motion...
then id go to the range and hit 1/2 swings... 3/4 swings... then full swings...
if the 3/4 swings started slicing... id go back to 1/2 swings... and make sure i analyze my set up/ grip/ ball placement/ tee height/ alignment... etc...
ive found that any one of these things or a combo of these things being a lil off would get me to have bad ball flights... or at least not what i wanna do
RUSS's avg drive - 230yrds and climbing

Posted
My Irons are hit pretty straight. What can I be doing that making me slice only my driver. I understand Im not getting the club face squared but what are a few things that you can suggest I can do to work on getting the club faced squared. Any drills will help! thanks

Whats the shaft on your driver? If your playing a shaft not suited for you, that could lead to a lot of your problems.

G10 (VS Proto 65 X) or 905S (speeder X) / X Tour 3W (VS Proto S) / Adams Idea Tour Proto 18* (VS Proto S) / S59 Tour, Z-Z65 Cushin (D2) / Mizuno MP-T 51-06 , 56-10, / Miz TP Mills #6 ~or~ Cleveland BRZ #5
 
 
85,84,85,84


Posted
My Irons are hit pretty straight. What can I be doing that making me slice only my driver. I understand Im not getting the club face squared but what are a few things that you can suggest I can do to work on getting the club faced squared. Any drills will help! thanks

Chances are you are swinging from over the top, or outside to in. Have someone analyze your driver and iron swing on video and see if you are going over the top. You might be doing the same type of swing with your irons, but the slicing effect is minimal as compared with a wood (that's what one instructor explained to me with my slicing problem). If the video shows you aren't swinging out-to-in then check on other issues one-by-one as out_in_30 mentioned in his post.

2011 Goals:
* Improve club-head speed to 90 mph with the driver
* Ensure increased speed does not compromise accuracy
* Prevent overextending on the back-swing (left-arm is bending too much at the top)
* Relax arms initially at address ( too tense)* Play more full rounds (failed from 2010)


Posted
I had two things that contributed to my slice. A swing over the top and an open clubface.
They creep into my swing every now and then, especially the over the top with the driver. I have however managed to get the irons on a better plane, removed the open clubface and gotten better release out toward the target.

The only thing that cause a ball to go far to the right is an open clubface. My left wirst was cupped and I didn't rotate the arms out through the ball. Keeping a flat left wrist has eliminated the shots to the right. I still hit the occasional slightly right when I lose focus or hold off the release. It's still not the banana slice I had before. More like a small fade.

Ogio Grom | Callaway X Hot Pro | Callaway X-Utility 3i | Mizuno MX-700 23º | Titleist Vokey SM 52.08, 58.12 | Mizuno MX-700 15º | Titleist 910 D2 9,5º | Scotty Cameron Newport 2 | Titleist Pro V1x and Taylormade Penta | Leupold GX-1

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Posted

My slice starts off straight. It tricks me sometimes, looks like I hit a good drive then once the ball picks up so height the ball just rips right!

In my Slingshot Bag:

Driver Big Bertha 10.5

Woods 3 WoodHybrids Hybrid 3 Iron 20ºIrons CCi 4-AWWedge Custom Systems Wedge 56ºPutter Karsten B60


Posted

Then I'd suggest you check the following:

1: Grip, pretty basic, but a bad grip can cause an open clubface.
2: The position of your left wrist at the top of the backswing. Look at the images below to see what a flat left wrist looks like.
3: Make some easy swings where you focus on not holding off the release, but letting the right hand overtake the left through the ball. If you hold off the release only a fraction of a second, the club will never have time to square up. This can produce a finish position where the club is more in front of you instead of turned around the body. You don't want to flip the hands or conciously turn the wrists, but making sure you don't hold it off. The hands will release through the ball automatically if you let them, but it is possible to develop a move where you hold it off. There is some distance in this move. I've done some experimenting on my part and found that when I get good lag and a release through the ball, I'll gain more distance. My current swing got little lag and little snap, so I'm hitting it short, but straight.


4: At the top of the backswing, check the position of your arms from the elbow to the wrists. If you roll over the arms, the club will be pointing more behind you. With the club parallell to the ground on the backswing you want it to aim on the target line. If the club is aiming left of the target, the arms and wrists have rolled over clockwise and will give you an open clubface. If the club is pointing right of the target, the arms and wrists have rolled counter-clockwise and the clubface is shut.

It is possible to roll the wrists to shut the clubface and cupping the left wrist to open it, which I'd guess would produce some bad shots.

Ogio Grom | Callaway X Hot Pro | Callaway X-Utility 3i | Mizuno MX-700 23º | Titleist Vokey SM 52.08, 58.12 | Mizuno MX-700 15º | Titleist 910 D2 9,5º | Scotty Cameron Newport 2 | Titleist Pro V1x and Taylormade Penta | Leupold GX-1

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Posted
Pick up this month's Golf Digest (the one with Arnie on the cover, Sept. '09). There is a big section on this very subject, detailing a couple of moves that are key to stopping the slice. The info contained in that article is based on info collected by GolfTEC, after analyzing the swings of 180000 ameteurs and 150 pros. A lot of it leads to the downswing starting differently, with the right shoulder tilting downward, instead of the left tilted towards the ground. There was a lot more to it than that, but it's worth the read. Here's a link - http://www.golfdigest.com/instructio...ssteveatherton .

 
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This Week's Bag Drop - Miura Passing Point 9003 Forged Irons and Adams Idea Pro a12 Irons and Hybrids  - Sweet new forged cavity backs from Miura (do they make any irons that arent simply beautiful?) and irons/hybrids from Adams created with...


Posted
Thanks alot guys ill try that this week.

In my Slingshot Bag:

Driver Big Bertha 10.5

Woods 3 WoodHybrids Hybrid 3 Iron 20ºIrons CCi 4-AWWedge Custom Systems Wedge 56ºPutter Karsten B60


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    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • Please see this topic for updated information:
    • When you've been teaching golf as long as I have, you're going to find that you can teach some things better than you previously had, and you're probably going to find some things that you taught incorrectly. I don't see that as a bad thing — what would be worse is refusing to adapt and grow given new information. I've always said that my goal with my instruction isn't to be right, but it's to get things right. To that end, I'm about five years late in issuing a public proclamation on something… When I first got my GEARS system, I immediately looked at the golf swings of the dozens and dozens of Tour players for which I suddenly had full 3D data. I created a huge spreadsheet showing how their bodies moved, how the club moved, at various points in the swing. I mapped knee and elbow angles, hand speeds, shoulder turns and pelvis turns… etc. I re-considered what I thought I knew about the golf swing as performed by the best players. One of those things dated back to the earliest days: that you extend (I never taught "straighten" and would avoid using that word unless in the context of saying "don't fully straighten") the trail knee/leg in the backswing. I was mislead by 2D photos from less-than-ideal camera angles — the trail leg rotates a bit during the backswing, and so when observing trail knee flex should also use a camera that moves to stay perpendicular to the plane of the ankle/knee/hip joint. We have at least two topics here on this (here and here; both of which I'll be updating after publishing this) where @mvmac and I advise golfers to extend the trail knee. Learning that this was not right is one of the reasons I'm glad to have a 3D system, as most golfers generally preserve the trail knee flex throughout the backswing. Data Here's a video showing an iron and a driver of someone who has won the career slam: Here's what the graph of his right knee flex looks like. The solid lines I've positioned at the top of the backswing (GEARS aligns both swings at impact, the dashed line). Address is to the right, of course, and the graph shows knee flex from the two swings above. The data (17.56° and 23.20°) shows where this player is in both swings (orange being the yellow iron swing, pink the blue driver swing). You can see that this golfer extends his trail knee 2-3°… before bending it even more than that through the late backswing and early downswing. Months ago I created a quick Instagram video showing the trail knee flex in the backswing of several players (see the top for the larger number): Erik J. Barzeski (@iacas) • Instagram reel GEARS shares expert advice on golf swing technique, focusing on the critical backswing phase. Tour winners and major champions reveal the key to a precise and powerful swing, highlighting the importance of... Here are a few more graphs. Two LIV players and major champions: Two PGA Tour winners: Two women's #1 ranked players: Two more PGA Tour winners (one a major champ): Two former #1s, the left one being a woman, the right a man, with a driver: Two more PGA Tour players: You'll notice a trend: they almost all maintain roughly the same flex throughout their backswing and downswing. The Issues with Extending the Trail Knee You can play good golf extending (again, not "straightening") the trail knee. Some Tour players do. But, as with many things, if 95 out of 100 Tour players do it, you're most likely better off doing similarly to what they do. So, what are the issues with extending the trail knee in the backswing? To list a few: Pelvic Depth and Rotation Quality Suffers When the trail knee extends, the trail leg often acts like an axle on the backswing, with the pelvis rotating around the leg and the trail hip joint. 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Disrupts the Pressure Shift/Transition When the trail leg extends too much, it often can't "push" forward normally. The forward push begins much earlier than forward motion begins — pushing forward begins as early as about P1.5 to P2 in the swings of most good golfers. It can push forward by abducting, again, but that's a weaker movement that shoves the pelvis forward (toward the target) and turns it more than it generally should (see the next point). Limits Internal Rotation of the Trail Hip Internal rotation of the trail hip is a sort of "limiter" on the backswing. I have seen many golfers on GEARS whose trail knee extends, whose pelvis shifts forward (toward the target), and who turn over 50°, 60°, and rarely but not never, over 70° in the backswing. If you turn 60° in the backswing, it's going to be almost impossible to get "open enough" in the downswing to arrive at a good impact position. 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    • Day 135 12-25 Wide backswing to wide downswing drill. Recorder and used mirror. 
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