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Posted
I have Prolaunch Red which is really low launch. It's got a high kickpoint.

I thought frequency was essentially a more exact shaft flex measurement...

Driver: FT Tour 9.5
Fairway woods: X-Fairway 3 and 5
Irons: : X-Forged '09 3-PW in Carolina Blue, Oklahoma Orange, and Wake Forest Green grips.
Wedges: X-Forged '09 54-14 and Vokey Spin-Milled 60-7
Putter: Odyssey Black Series #8

Preferred Ball: Z-star Tour Yellow

In the Pockets: Ball, Ecotee, Switchblade Divot Repair tool, Pencil w/ Eraser.

 


Posted
cpm= cycles per minute

:tmade: R15 14* Matrix Black Tie 7m3

:adams: Speedline Super S 3w & 5w Matrix Radix HD S VI

:callaway: X-12 4-PW Memphis 10

IONNOVEX  Type S GDT 50*, 54* & 62* Mitsubishi Rayon Kuro Kage Black 80ir

:odyssey: Tri-Ball SRT

-Landon


  • 5 weeks later...
Posted
I seen in one of these forums the following questions which I thought was very interesting and help me research a good shaft. I hope it can do the same for you.


1.What is my tempo: fast, medium, slow

2.What is the length of my swing arg: long, medium, short

3.What is my transition at the top: pause at the top, or smooth?

4.Where do I release my wrist cock, early, middle, late

5.What is my swing speed, launch angle and spin rate?

6.What head do I plan on putting the shaft into?

My answers at that time using a Fujikura Speeader Fairway for Titleist Stiff Shaft with a Pro Titanium 905R 8.5 club head were

1.medium
2.short
3.pause, strong move to the ball
4.middle
5.(98 – 106), (16.2 – 18.6),(39K – 42K)


I now play a ALDILA NV Stiff shaft with a Pro Titanium 905R 10.5

Driver: Titliest 905s 10.5º (ALDILA NV S-flex, 65grams)
3-Wood: Cleveland Launcher 15º (Fuji Rombax 7V05 S-Flex, 70grams)
Irons: Cleveland CG7 Tour Black Pearl, 4-PW
Wedges: Cleveland CG12 60º| Cleveland CG12 56º | Cleveland CG15 52º
Putter: Talyor MadeBall: Nike One Black


Posted
Which driver?

Let's see...assuming ~$300 per driver, that would be $3,600! Even at ~$200 per driver, that's $2,400.

I could play a lot of round of golf with that dough.

Don

:titleist: 910 D2, 8.5˚, Adila RIP 60 S-Flex
:titleist: 980F 15˚
:yonex: EZone Blades (3-PW) Dynamic Gold S-200
:vokey:   Vokey wedges, 52˚; 56˚; and 60˚
:scotty_cameron:  2014 Scotty Cameron Select Newport 2

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Ya have to know how and where to shop and do your own work. It pays in the long run and I get to try alot of different stuff and not lose anything.

:tmade: R15 14* Matrix Black Tie 7m3

:adams: Speedline Super S 3w & 5w Matrix Radix HD S VI

:callaway: X-12 4-PW Memphis 10

IONNOVEX  Type S GDT 50*, 54* & 62* Mitsubishi Rayon Kuro Kage Black 80ir

:odyssey: Tri-Ball SRT

-Landon


Posted
Hi all,

I am assuming you are a tall player by the length of the shaft recommended by the pro. I say that because most people don't realize they gain more distance (but loose accuracy) with a longer shaft. Tiger used to play 43" steel shaft, but when he moved up to 45" graphite shaft, that's when he started spraying his drives a lot.

I am average height and play 44-1/2" Mitsubishi Diamani Blue (Titleist 909 D2 Driver) regular-flex shaft. I had it custom fitted with 1/4" tipped and 1/4" cut at the grip. My swing speed is 105. The stiff shaft was a little too stiff and the regular was a little to whippy. So I had the regular shaft tipped to increase the stiffness. Also having it 1/2" shorter make it a lot easier to control.

Don

:titleist: 910 D2, 8.5˚, Adila RIP 60 S-Flex
:titleist: 980F 15˚
:yonex: EZone Blades (3-PW) Dynamic Gold S-200
:vokey:   Vokey wedges, 52˚; 56˚; and 60˚
:scotty_cameron:  2014 Scotty Cameron Select Newport 2

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
(Titleist 909 D2 Driver) ... Also having it 1/2" shorter make it a lot easier to control.

Y... Did you notice/feel any change in swingweight with 1/2" trimmed off? I've been thinking about butt-trimming my driver shaft 1/2" - it measures 45.5" stock. Some people say 1/2" won't be that noticeable. Now I see a possible advantage to drivers with changeable weight screws in back.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha B16 OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:  image.png.0d90925b4c768ce7c125b16f98313e0d.png Inertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  :srixon: QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
Any House Of Forged shaft will be great
If you always do what you've always done....You'll always be where you are right now..
Driver: C830.2 HOF Taiwan Proto
3 wood: Versus VS 1 Proforce V2
7 wood: DCT Fujikura Motore F1
3-pw: Nakashima NX-1 Project X 6.5 53*: ...

Posted
Any House Of Forged shaft will be great

What kind of launch and spin you getting with that shaft?

Driver- SuperTri 9.5*
Wood- 906 F2 13*
Hybrids- Rescue TP 17*
Irons(4-PW)- R9 TP w/ KBS Tour
Wedge-ZTP 52* w/ KBS Tour Wedge-58* VokeyPutter- Studio Select New Port 2 Mid-SlantBall-TP Black/Red

Note: This thread is 5924 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • I work with a lot of golfers who want more shaft lean at impact, who currently have AoAs that range from +2° to -2°, and who love to see the handle lower and more "in front of their trail thigh" from face-on at P6. And a lot of these golfers try to solve the issue by working on the downswing. They do something to drag the handle forward. Or they just leave their right thigh farther back so the same handle location "looks" farther forward. Or they move the ball back in their stance. Or they push themselves down into the ground to get the handle lower and increase (decrease?) their AoA (to be more negative). The real fix is often to get wider in the backswing. To do LESS in the backswing. To hinge less, fold the trail arm less, abduct the trail arm less. I had a case of this over the weekend. Before, the player had 110° of trail elbow bend, "lifted" his trail humerus only a few degrees, etc. The club traveled quite a bit around him, and he tended to "pick" the ball from the fairways. In the "after" swings below (which are mild exaggerations — this golfer does not need to end up at < 70° of elbow bend. These were slower backswings with "hit it as hard as you normally would" intent downswings), you can see that he bent his elbow about 70° instead of 110° and lifted his right arm an extra ~15° or more. You can't see how much less this moved his hands across his chest (right arm abduction), but it was also decreased. His hands stayed more "in front of" his right shoulder rather than traveling "beside" them so much. The two swings look like this: The change at P6, without talking about the downswing one little bit (outside of him telling me that he tends to pick the ball), is remarkable: Without 110° of elbow bend to get out (which he gets to 80°, a loss of 30°), the golfer actually loses slightly less elbow bend (70 - 50 = 20), but delivers 30° less elbow bend, lowering the handle and letting the elbow get "in front of" the rib cage… because it never got "behind" or "beside" the rib cage. If you look at this video showing the before/afters of P6, you'll note the handle location (both vertically and horizontally) and the shoulders (the ball is in the same place in these frames). This golfer's path was largely unaffected (still pretty straight into the ball, < 3° path and often < 1.5°), but his AoA jumped to -5° ± 2°. I've always said, and in talking with other instructors they agree and feel similarly, that we spend a lot of time working on the backswing. This is another example of why.
    • We had a member of our senior club who developed a mental block on pulling the trigger. I played with him to see what the membership was talking about. I timed him a few times when he would get over the ball. 45 seconds. He knew he had a mental block and would chide himself, “Just hit it!” Once on the green he was okay and chipping was a bit better. It was painful to watch him struggle. Our “bandaid” was to put him in the last tournament  tee time with two understanding players. We should have suggested to him to take a break from our tournaments. I agree with the idea that when a player realizes they have a problem, the answer is to go fix it and not return until they are able to play at an acceptable pace.
    • Day 56 (4 May 26) - Worked on some ball-then-ground drills - going from P3 thru impact - with a slowed tempo, working to keep all parts in sync.   
    • Wordle 1,780 3/6 🟩⬜🟨🟨🟨 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • Wordle 1,780 4/6 🟨⬜⬜⬜🟨 ⬜🟨🟨🟨⬜ 🟩🟨🟩🟨⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
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