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Posted
Hi again,
I see many threads on many of you raving about great prices, mostly on Ebay, on used clubs, of various brands and models. I'm sure the new technology built into all the new clubs, will help our game, it is not a garantee. So I assume this isw why many of you are interested in this, and obviously to save $$$. My problem is, since I was fitted for my hybrids, I need 1.25" - 1" longer shafts. So, taking this into account, say for a 5 - pw, that's around $325(depending on tax rate), to replaces the shafts. Then there is the price of the irons. So used irons, for $250(if any worth it at that price) plus the $325+ reshafting, we're around $575+. Is it worth it, saving $100, or $200, and sacrifice the new technology, warantee, etc? In my case, as you can see, I have 11 year old TaylorMade Supersteel irons. Not only are thye off the rack, too short, but they are stiff flex, where I need regular. If I mishit, i get a lightning bolt up my arm, and I am losing distance. I don't think TM was that great back then, so I don't think these irons are worth reshafting. And because of the incorrect flex, it won't even be worth adding extensions. My iron play is deceent, I hit the ball ok. It's everything else in my game which makes my scores high. And money is tight. So, what to do. Although I might only save a $100 or $200, would it be worth buying used and reshafting, or spend the extra $$ for new clubs? In another thread, I loved the Ping I3+. Yet I don't see many for sale anymore. Any suggestions on used irons worth the money and compare to newer ones? No Callaway or Adams. I read many good things about the Ben Hogans. I even know someone who swears by them. I also read, some time ago, about the TM RAC LTs. Would these be worth buying and reshafting. Then for someone like me, can help my game(compared to what I am using now) for the next 2 - 3 years. THEN I can buy new when I can afford it.

Posted
http://www.callawaygolfpreowned.com/...efault,sc.html

you should be able to pick something up there cheap that has the correct flex for you. If you don't mind your clubs looking like you actually use them then why not buy used.

4DX Evolver 10.5 Stiff UST V2
Big Bertha Steelhead Plus 3wood
mp-32 3-pw tt x100's
xtour 56/52deg
feel golf 60 deg lob wedge dual force rossie blade I golf balls


Posted
If you are going to replace the shafts then it isn't worth it to buy used. If you looked a bit I bet you could find a nice used set with the correct length and flex.

Brian


Posted
If the difference is only going to be $100-$200, Id buy new. It makes more sense to do that than to buy used now, get them reshafted and then buy new in a couple years.
I personally think that for the average golfer, buying new isnt worth the money because they arent going to see much of a difference in their scores from a new set to a set that is 5 years old; but in your case you are looking at a set of custom/fitted irons, so new is definetly the way to go.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S


Posted
Sites like Callaway Preowned , and stores like Golf Galaxy and Golf Discount identify the club specs on their used sets. If you can't find what you need as a far as shaft length and lie, you might go ahead and buy new stuff. By the time you pay to have them bent and lengthened, might as well get them new from the factory.

Also, is new technology enough of an improvement to make a difference? I hit the X22 irons about 3 yds. farther than the X20s. Price difference? About $300 more for the X22s. (I then bought a slightly used set of X20 irons for $400; only the 3i, 7i and 9i showed much wear - prior owner probably quick-swapped them for an X22Tour set.)

Some used clubs are slightly used, others are really beat up. Best to check them in person, or go through a mfgr Pre-owned site. That's why I don't mess with eBay.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Why in the world would it be $325 to pull the shafts and put in overlength ones?? As a 30 handicap, and I mean no offense, trust me I was there myself just a couple years ago, you shouldn't need expensive shafts. It's my opinion that anything over $150 to replace 6 iron shafts is a HUGE ripoff!! What shafts cost $325 for 6 of them, installed of course??

Posted

I'd like to know where that $325 figure came from? Should be about $20 per + the cost of the shafts + grips. I'll do it for half that.

:tmade: R15 14* Matrix Black Tie 7m3

:adams: Speedline Super S 3w & 5w Matrix Radix HD S VI

:callaway: X-12 4-PW Memphis 10

IONNOVEX  Type S GDT 50*, 54* & 62* Mitsubishi Rayon Kuro Kage Black 80ir

:odyssey: Tri-Ball SRT

-Landon


Posted
  LBlack14 said:
I'd like to know where that $325 figure came from? Should be about $20 per + the cost of the shafts + grips. I'll do it for half that.

LBlack right that reshafting price excessive.

Callaway PreOwned had X20 irons | 5-PW | with Uniflex shaft | + 1.25 inches longer than avg | good condition for $287.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
my tip is to figure out what yo like and just constantly look for those in your local area
i was lookin for a set of ping black dot irons of basicaly all types
then finally I3 blades popped up and i love them

My Clubs:
Ping I3 + blade 3-pw
9.5 09 Burner with prolaunch red
Nickent 4dx driver
Taylormade Z tp 52, 56, 60
YES Carolyne putter


Posted
Wow, thanks for all your input. Golfsmith wants $18 labor, plus $12 - $15 per shaft, +$5 grip. With tax that's still around $38. I think Golf Galaxy told me around $40 per, and my proshop told me around $50. That's still around $230 at least. Hey, would anyone know what my Supersteels are considered: GI, Super GI, inbetween, or between players and GI. I asked Taylor Made once and couldn't get any clear answers. I am wondering if I should simply reshaft what I have. Getting the cheapest shafts available, so long as the length and flex are correct? Then after a year or two invest in new irons? I did buy 2 new custom fitted hybrids last season also. Then play, practice(new stack and tilt), and improve. Or, if you think my supersteels are very outdated and I should still pursue used, better irons? Maybe I should then buy 2 new wedges then if anything, since my cheap MasterGrips aren't worth reshafting, since they are $30 each anyway? I am so confused.

Posted
  Alohaed said:
...Hey, would anyone know what my Supersteels are considered: GI, Super GI, inbetween, or between players and GI. I asked Taylor Made once and couldn't get any clear answers.... Or, if you think my supersteels are very outdated and I should still pursue used, better irons?

If you have the Supersteel Burners from 2000, they are considered Super Game Improvement with an MPF = 806. (This comes from the 2005

Maltby Playability Factor (MPF) Irons book. If you are interested in how golf clubs work, and/or the history of golf clubs, this 272-page full-color book is on sale for about $2 at assorted golf shops.) As for new irons... You have a 30 HDCP, you might consider starting with some lessons. Then, the pro could analyze your swing, ask you what your goals are, and recommend the club mix for how you play - and where you want to take your game. Your current irons appear to be SGI, so they should suit you through the first wave of golf lessons. Note: Golf Digest uses three categories for rating golf clubs on user friendliness - Players, Game Improvement, and Super GI. GoldDi categories are what most people on this blog use. Ralph Maltby, who invented the system, uses six categories.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

Hey WUtiger, thanks. I appreciate the info. I went to the Maltby website and saw a similar question about these from another person. Maltby said they are considered one of TM's best GI clubs of those days. And although they are too short, if I do hit them correctly, it is nice and the ball gets up in the air easily. The only bad thing is for my swing speed, they are incorrect, stiff shafts. I am not so much concerned about losing distance. It is on on a mishit, I get a stinger up my arm. BUT, I guess you, and others are correct. At my handicap, spending $800+ on new irons won't help much, and money IS an issue for me. I will stick with them another year. Instead of spending $200+ for shafts, I will get extensions for $5 per then club, and lose a few yards. I hope my grips can be saved, since they are new. Then get fitted for wedges, adding a gap wedge. I will take lessons and practice from my new Stack and Tilt book. Maybe I can get more power from this swing and I might gain some distance back. And if I improve enough, then get new clubs next year, and might then be able to get the Ping I15s or AP1s. I love this forum!!!


Posted
  Alohaed said:
... Instead of spending $200+ for shafts, I will get extensions for $5 per then club, and lose a few yards.

Alohaed, If you have the shafts lengthened, this will increase your swing arc and probably get you a few extra yards. One thing, longer shafts will increase the swingweight; they may feel heavier. ... Also, you might be able to get by without GW; and, if you have trouble with LW, put it aside for awhile. Sounds like a good plan. Keep us posted.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 5685 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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