Driver loft size...difference between 8.5* - 11.5*

[Shanks A Million]

You're right, my bad I got the two mixed up. The dimples create turbulence that hugs the golf ball and eliminates the low pressure area behind the ball that a ball with no dimples would create.

Yes, correct, but at around 180 mph, give or take, the two balls would be nearly the same, but from 30 mph to 180 mph, the dimpled golf ball has lift. The real battle is making a golf ball with a good balance of lift and spin, and making it perform well with both the driver and wedges. Too many dimples, and you've got a balloon, too few, and it's a stone. Also, USGA rules require a golf ball's dimples to be symmetrical in order to prevent manufactures from making balls that self correct. They usually follow one of two general patterns, I believe they are triangular and icosahedral.

If you go and take a look at the different golf balls on the market, you'll find something most of you probably didn't realize. The balls designed for higher swing speeds have less dimples than the ones designed for slower swings. The ProV1 has 392 dimples, while the ProV1x has 332 dimples. That's because the ProV1x is designed to have less lift than the ProV1. These factors also change the ideal driver launch angles and spin rates.

[Titleist_ProV1x]

The lack of lift has nothing to do with a lack of spin, just that a ball without dimples doesn't "grab" the air. A ball with no dimples creates turbulence behind the ball, slowing it down while a ball with dimples makes a smaller area of turbulence. Then the spin of the ball forces that high pressure turbulence down, which (because objects move from areas of low pressure to areas of high pressure) causes lift.

Yes, correct, but at around 180 mph, give or take, the two balls would be nearly the same, but from 30 mph to 180 mph, the dimpled golf ball has lift. The real battle is making a golf ball with a good balance of lift and spin, and making it perform well with both the driver and wedges. Too many dimples, and you've got a balloon, too few, and it's a stone. Also, USGA rules require a golf ball's dimples to be symmetrical in order to prevent manufactures from making balls that self correct. They usually follow one of two general patterns, I believe they are triangular and icosahedral.

Excellent read Shanks & Jamo, thanks guys

[Laxplayer201092]

heres the long and the short of it.

if you want to work the ball and have a decent swing speed, lower lofts will work well for you. Back spin fights of side spin, so if you have a higher lofted head, your gonna hit the ball higher, but not move the ball so much. keep in mind as well that just because a cllub says its 10.5, doesnt mean it is. i had a superquad tp that said 10.5 but actually played at 8.8 degreees

[M2R]

I'm not sure if reading Shanks' reply made me feel smarter or dumber. Probably the latter.

Me neither but I do know for sure I want some of those variable surface viscosity balls

, mine just have the more mundane differential surface velocity.

[Blades4me]

currently using a 11.5* driver...but was thinking about going down to 8.5 or 9. to help keep my ball flight down. My concern: do you find it substantially harder to get the ball up the air?

Why don't you go and get on a launch monitor and see what loft & shaft combination gives you a launch angle of 12-14* with a ball rpm of 2500-3000 rpm's; (the Bridgestone ball fitting will give you those numbers and their equipment is very percise AND its free). Those are the optimin numbers for maximim distance and trajectory for anyone. If you don't want to do that then 10-10.5* are good general loft(s) for the most ppl. Also as previously posted the shaft has alot to do with it also. Be advised that the loft that is stamped on the bottom of the driver is not that accurate. Usually its .5 to 1* more than what it is stated at--it will always be more not less than stated. Some OEM's will put 9 or 10* on the sole, but if the loft was measured it would come out to around 11 or 12*. The reason for this is 3 fold, 1) most guys scoff at a high lofted driver b/c they aren't, (lol), manly; 2) the more loft the more forgiving the club--this is one reason most teaching pro's will say that 90% of we amatues shouldn't have a driver in the bag and just use a 3 metal to drive with and 3) when making the heads they can't get that accurate; even the tour models, that are much closer inspected will be at least .5* more than stated.

[jamo]

If you go and take a look at the different golf balls on the market, you'll find something most of you probably didn't realize. The balls designed for higher swing speeds have less dimples than the ones designed for slower swings. The ProV1 has 392 dimples, while the ProV1x has 332 dimples. That's because the ProV1x is designed to have less lift than the ProV1. These factors also change the ideal driver launch angles and spin rates.

That was the only difference between the Titleist DT Roll and DT Carry. Once has fewer, larger dimples, and the other had more, smaller dimples. The inside of the two was nearly exactly the same. (I believe one had a larger core by a very very tiny fraction of a mm).

[cigarsmoke23]

Why don't you go and get on a launch monitor and see what loft & shaft combination gives you a launch angle of 12-14* with a ball rpm of 2500-3000 rpm's; (the Bridgestone ball fitting will give you those numbers and their equipment is very percise AND its free). Those are the optimin numbers for maximim distance and trajectory for anyone. If you don't want to do that then 10-10.5* are good general loft(s) for the most ppl. Also as previously posted the shaft has alot to do with it also. Be advised that the loft that is stamped on the bottom of the driver is not that accurate. Usually its .5 to 1* more than what it is stated at--it will always be more not less than stated. Some OEM's will put 9 or 10* on the sole, but if the loft was measured it would come out to around 11 or 12*. The reason for this is 3 fold, 1) most guys scoff at a high lofted driver b/c they aren't, (lol), manly; 2) the more loft the more forgiving the club--this is one reason most teaching pro's will say that 90% of we amatues shouldn't have a driver in the bag and just use a 3 metal to drive with and 3) when making the heads they can't get that accurate; even the tour models, that are much closer inspected will be at least .5* more than stated.

thanks for the advice. will defininitely do that this weekend.

[Shanks A Million]

That was the only difference between the Titleist DT Roll and DT Carry. Once has fewer, larger dimples, and the other had more, smaller dimples. The inside of the two was nearly exactly the same. (I believe one had a larger core by a very very tiny fraction of a mm).

Really? Never knew that. Did you know the Srixon AD-333 is the only ball on the market with an odd number of dimples? Can't confirm that 100%, but it seems to be true. I wonder how they did that.

To the OP, the question of driver loft is similar to the question of shoe size. Which one will work best? Well, for me, a size 12 in Nautica, size 10 wide in Footjoy, size 11 1/2 in Timberland, etc. The answer to the question depends a lot on the ball, swing speed, shaft, etc. For me, my "ideal" driver for my 110 mph clubhead speed has an 11.2° to 12.9° launch angle, with a spin rate around 2,100 RPM. The driver loft should be about 8.5° with a lower kick shaft, to a 9.5° with a higher kick shaft (X-Stiff), so I use the 9.5° with a higher kick shaft to get some more carry, and more forgiveness. When I nail it right on the screws, the driver I have will give me about 255-265 yards of carry, with 275-280 total yards. I am most concerned with optimizing my driver, to find the most fairways, and get the most distance as is possible while still finding those fairways.

[cigarsmoke23]

Why don't you go and get on a launch monitor and see what loft & shaft combination gives you a launch angle of 12-14* with a ball rpm of 2500-3000 rpm's; (the Bridgestone ball fitting will give you those numbers and their equipment is very percise AND its free). Those are the optimin numbers for maximim distance and trajectory for anyone. If you don't want to do that then 10-10.5* are good general loft(s) for the most ppl. Also as previously posted the shaft has alot to do with it also. Be advised that the loft that is stamped on the bottom of the driver is not that accurate. Usually its .5 to 1* more than what it is stated at--it will always be more not less than stated. Some OEM's will put 9 or 10* on the sole, but if the loft was measured it would come out to around 11 or 12*. The reason for this is 3 fold, 1) most guys scoff at a high lofted driver b/c they aren't, (lol), manly; 2) the more loft the more forgiving the club--this is one reason most teaching pro's will say that 90% of we amatues shouldn't have a driver in the bag and just use a 3 metal to drive with and 3) when making the heads they can't get that accurate; even the tour models, that are much closer inspected will be at least .5* more than stated.

thanks for the advice. will defininitely do that this weekend.

[jamo]

Really? Never knew that. Did you know the Srixon AD-333 is the only ball on the market with an odd number of dimples? Can't confirm that 100%, but it seems to be true. I wonder how they did that.

Yup, I actually did a science far project last year testing dimple patters. DT Roll v DT Carry, Top Flite D2 (with dimples inside of dimples) v XL 5000, Callaway HX Hot v CS3 Hot, and Taylor Made TP Red w/LDP v TP Red w/o LDP (basically the first version v the second one).

The Callaway HX Hot ones had hexagonal dimples, the CS3 ones (only available at Wal Mart and not even on Callaway's website at all) have circular ones. All of the dimple innovations actually made a difference in my testing except the Taylor Made ones. So if you find the first generation TP Red/Black balls at a discount, buy them. As for the DT balls, the DT Roll 392 dimples and a 1.565" core, while the DT Carry has 252 dimples and a 1.595" core. I looked up the Srixon AD-333, they do have 333 dimples, not sure if any one else has an odd number.