Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5761 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
I need the opinion of those smarter than me about irons. I have been playing the same set since I was 11 but I want to put new shafts in them (Project X 6.0) now. If i am going to spend a couple hundred on shafts, should I just spend the extra money and get fitted for a new set? Don't know if being fitted will improve my game and i am playing well right now. All comments welcome. Thanks in advance.
Driver......... R9 Supertri 9.5* - Project X 6.5
FWY Wood.. MP Titanium 15* - Project X 6.0
Irons........... MP 68 3-PW - Project X 6.0
Wedges....... xFT 52.09 56.16
................... Tour 59.06Putter.......... Studio Select Squareback Ball............. ProV1x Supporting Project X One 330...

Posted
I need the opinion of those smarter than me about irons. I have been playing the same set since I was 11 but I want to put new shafts in them (Project X 6.0) now. If i am going to spend a couple hundred on shafts, should I just spend the extra money and get fitted for a new set? Don't know if being fitted will improve my game and i am playing well right now. All comments welcome. Thanks in advance.

I'd do it. at your handicap, the small details matter. project x 6.0's don't come cheap and these days you'll see a lot of players irons on sale for about 400-500 that already come with project x's. I'd shop around and look for some deals and see what you can get and get fitted for those. 11 years is quite a long time to be playing one set :)

DST Tour 9.5 Diamana Whiteboard
909F3 15* 3 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
909F3 18* 5 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
'09 X-Forged 3-PW Project-X 6.0 Flighted
CG15 56* X-Tour 60* Abaco


Posted
I need the opinion of those smarter than me about irons. I have been playing the same set since I was 11 but I want to put new shafts in them (Project X 6.0) now. If i am going to spend a couple hundred on shafts, should I just spend the extra money and get fitted for a new set? Don't know if being fitted will improve my game and i am playing well right now. All comments welcome. Thanks in advance.

This depends on who is putting the shafts in and which irons you have now. I don't know the TA5 well enough to comment with that regard.

However, my swing speed is approaching the point where I am going to put S300 into my irons before too long (R300 now). Looking at the cost of new shafts, new grips for those shafts, and labor for the installation, versus new irons of last year's model, and I'm not saving much by repairing my existing ones. So I'm going to spend the little extra (it will cost me a little over $400 + tax) to get new ones in this case

-- Michael | My swing! 

"You think you're Jim Furyk. That's why your phone is never charged." - message from my mother

Driver:  Titleist 915D2.  4-wood:  Titleist 917F2.  Titleist TS2 19 degree hybrid.  Tour Edge Exotics C723 21 degree hybrid.  Irons 5-U, Ping G400.  Wedges negotiable (currently 54 degree Cleveland, 58 degree Titleist) Edel putter. 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
I need the opinion of those smarter than me about irons. I have been playing the same set since I was 11 but I want to put new shafts in them (Project X 6.0) now. If i am going to spend a couple hundred on shafts, should I just spend the extra money and get fitted for a new set? Don't know if being fitted will improve my game and i am playing well right now. All comments welcome. Thanks in advance.

4.0? No kidding you're playing well. $200 seems like a lot of coin to spend on an 8 year old set of irons - does that include new grips? Some people re-grip several times a season, so there's really no set amount to spend maintaining a set of irons you already own.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
I used to have the TA3's about 12 years ago. I liked them but they're a far cry from what's available today.

I switched from the DGS300 to the Project X 5.5 and while there is definitely a difference between the two, I don't think it will have a huge impact on your game. If I were you, I'd priortize in terms of benefit:

1.) Club fitting (just happens to be the cheapest option, too)
2.) New heads
3.) New shafts

Posted
I'd do it. at your handicap, the small details matter. project x 6.0's don't come cheap... )

This will be your big step in equipment, so get fitted for new clubs. Your swing is definitely grooved enough to benefit from full fitting.

In comparison, the reshaft will cost a lot. I priced a reshaft for a friend of mine, and the costs for eight irons (metal) are: $80 labor + $24 basic grips + PX shafts... ($200 to $270). So, you're looking at $375 to tweak several year old clubs. You could get custom fit for a factory order for about twice that. As a 19-year-old with a 4.0 HDCP, sounds like a good time to invest in your future.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha B16 OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:  image.png.0d90925b4c768ce7c125b16f98313e0d.png Inertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  :srixon: QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
I went with new irons. I sold my tour burners for 300 since they were new and paid a little over 190 for my new Nike splits with a coupon from Watts. It was better than sticking new shafts since I was going to get DG S-300 anyways I went with clubs that had those shafts. Best thing I did!

- VR Pro LTD - 9.5 Ahina X

- VR_S 3, 5 woods - Fubuki X

- VR Pro Combo - 3-Pw S300's
nike.gif - VR VRev Wedges - 52, 58 

- Method 001 - 34in.

- 20XI-S

- 20XI Staff Bag

 


Posted
I am actually getting my old set back today. I sold to a friend and now I am buying back ironically TA 5. They are pretty nice irons and I played better with them than I do now so for 50 bucks and a hybrid I don't use, I thought I'd give the old guys a home.

But I don't think reshafting them would be wise IMO. If you really love the heads you could do it. You could also get fit for new shafts. I am sure there are club makers who could help you make a good decision.

If your hitting greens and playing well, why do you want to make a change? I'd say don't fix what isn't broken. I've went through 2 sets since my TA5s and I'm going back. I liked the shafts and thought the offset was the reason I hooked the ball (I was wrong) and I am no better with newer irons than I was.

Brian


Posted
As said above...I would look into some new sticks. I played a set of TA3's for about 5 years until the grooves fell off and loved them, but at this point, if I were you, I'd look at a new set. You can find some very good deals out there too!

Irons - nike.gif Forged Blades / Project X 7.0

Driver - nike.gif VR Pro Ltd. Edition 8.5° / FUBUKI Alpha 70x

Wood - nike.gif SQ 3+ 13° / Stock Diamana S-Flex
Wedges - cleveland.gif Tour Action Gunmetal Reg 588 54° & 60° / DG S400
Putter - White Hot XG 2-Ball F7

Bag - nike.gif SQ Tour Carry


Posted
Votes are in.
Go try and get fitted for new clubs and see what you like!

- VR Pro LTD - 9.5 Ahina X

- VR_S 3, 5 woods - Fubuki X

- VR Pro Combo - 3-Pw S300's
nike.gif - VR VRev Wedges - 52, 58 

- Method 001 - 34in.

- 20XI-S

- 20XI Staff Bag

 


Posted
Thanks everyone. I am going to get fitted next week!
Driver......... R9 Supertri 9.5* - Project X 6.5
FWY Wood.. MP Titanium 15* - Project X 6.0
Irons........... MP 68 3-PW - Project X 6.0
Wedges....... xFT 52.09 56.16
................... Tour 59.06Putter.......... Studio Select Squareback Ball............. ProV1x Supporting Project X One 330...

Note: This thread is 5761 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Haiduk - Archdevil        
    • Probably since the golfer has to swing the club back and up. The hands have to move back and up. You can feel them go back and up just by turning the shoulders and bending the right arm, because it brings your hands towards your right shoulder.  The difference is if you maintain width or not. Less width means a shorter feeling swing path so the more you need to lift the arms. Being as someone who gets the right arm bend at 110+ degrees, it's 100% a timing issue. I am use to like a 1.5+ second backswing. It probably should be like 1 second at most. Half a second or more will feel like an eternity. I have had swings where I keep my right arm straighter and I am still trying to time the downswing based on the old tempo.  Ideally, for me, it is probably going to be a much quicker and shorter (in duration) backswing, while keeping the right elbow straighter. Which also means more hinging to get swing length without over swinging. 
    • Wordle 1,789 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟨🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I'm currently recuperating from surgery, so no golf, but have been thinking about this quite a bit. This and the don't overbend the right arm thing. It's hard for me to even pose the position, so I'm not 100% sure, but I feel like it's impossible to have the right humerus along the shirt seam and not overbend your right arm, unless your hands are down near your hips. If the left arm is up at or above the shoulder plane and your right arm is bent less than 90 degrees, then your right humerus has to raise or your hands will get pulled apart. Your left hand can't reach your right hand unless either the right upper arm is up or the right arm is overbent. Is that right? If it is, then focusing on not overbending the right arm would force you to raise the humerus. And actually thinking further on it, if you do overbend your right arm, then you're basically forcing your upper arm down or forcing your left arm to bend. Since (for me at least) bending the left arm too much is not something I think I need to worry about, it means that the bend in the trail arm is really the driving force behind what happens to the right humerus. 
    • I managed to knock off a 3, a 13, and a 15 a couple of weeks ago. The 3 was a 185 yard par 3 with a 6 iron to 12 feet. 13 was a 350 yard par 4, which was a 2 iron and a 9 iron to about a foot. 15 was a 560 yard par 5 with a driver in a bunker, 4 iron into the semi, gap wedge to 8 feet and a putt.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.