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Shaft PUREing, Puring, or Spining


Note: This thread is 4610 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • 1 month later...

How many of you have your shafted Pured? (I know SST Pure is the leader but there are a few others). Can you tell a material difference?

Thanks

What's in the bag:

Driver: Adams 9064LS (project RIP Shaft) 9.5 degree
3 Wood: Titleist 909R 14.5 degree
Hybrid 3-iron: 19 degree Tour Professional (bent to 18 degrees)Hybrid 4-iron: 21 degree Tour ProfessionalIrons: Tour X-20 5-PW Project X 6.0 shaftsGap Wedge: Mizuno MP10 52.08 Sand Wedge: Mizuno MP10 58.10 Lob Wedge: Nike 62.06

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I just bought a custom 3 wood.  Graffaloy Fairway Lite shaft stiff flex +1" over standard length with a Sonartec LS-99 17*.  The shaft was Pured and Flo'd by the club maker.  By far the best club I've ever hit.  Launch angle and consistancy is unbelieveable, by far the best club I've ever hit!!!  I can't say if the consistancy and ease of hitting this club is the Pure and Flo, or whether the time and research with the club maker resulted in a perfect fit or a combination of both.

I just got hold of a brand new Sonartec NP-99 19*  5 wood with a Sonartec  Fairway stiff shaft that I'll probably end up sending to the club maker and have it reshafted +1" with the same shaft as above, pured and flo'd.   I'll play it for a few rounds with the standard shaft, then send it in and see if it is that much different.   I hit it yesterday at the range and it was really a great golf club and shaft already, though the shaft is not long enough for me.

Pure and Flo.......seems to work in my limited knowledge.  We'll try it one more time and then really know if it is worth it.  Though it is pretty darn cheap for even a peace of mind.

Driver Callaway Diablo Edge --- Custom Sonartec 3, 5 and 7 woods made +1" stiff shafts --- Irons 5-L Ping G10 +1" 4.5* upright reg shafts --- ---Putter Tiger Shark

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I spine all of my shafts. If I buy from Golfsmith I'll have them SST/pure it for 10 bux more. IMO you don't really notice any difference until you get a pretty consistent golf swing and what I saw was a tighter dispersion pattern.

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  • 6 months later...

Ok, so old thread, I know, but whats worse, starting another on the same topic or digging up an old thread. Sometimes you just cant please everyone with this. Boohoo. Anyway, I have already decided to spine and FLO all my shafts, so I dont need anyone to tell me its all BS or its the greatest thing since sliced cheese or its a waste of money. My decision has been made. I made my own spine finder which cost me $30, got a laser from a chinese nicknack shop, $4, and the other stuff (shaft epoxy, new ferrules, compressed air gun to remove the grips) cost me about another $35. The thing Im confused about is where to align the spine relative to the target. Id say 4/5 people say to put it in the 9 o'clock position. But, when you FLO the shaft the laser should FLO parallel to the ground so the spine is facing up. So why wouldnt we put the spine in the 12 o'clock position when its at this point where the shaft is the happiest and flexes consistently. If we imagine the movement of the laser is the same as the club path at impact, that just makes more sense to me. The issue is the club is loaded in 2 directions during the down swing. Its loaded when the arms drop into the slot, like a pulling down of the hands and then that load changes axis as the hands release through impact. So which one is more important to returning the face square?? To me its the latter which means the spine should be at 12 o'clock. But this is just numpty logic and probably totally wrong. But if someone can explain why the 9 o'clock position is more beneficial, and I understand and agree, then this is the way I will go.  Cheers..

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If you really want to get your shafts pured, just do the graphite ones (would generally be your woods/hybrid). Steel iron shafts shouldn't feel any different pured.

I got a new driver recently with a custom shaft (Bassara UL Griffin TS), and figured what the hell, just pure it. I figure if you're going to spend the money, then do it right.

Driver: :tmade: R11 9.0 - Bassara Griffin UL - Tour Stiff 3-wood: :tmade: R11 Ti 15.0 - JAVLNFX M6 - Stiff Hybrid: :tmade: Rescue Hybrid - JAVLNFX Hybrid - Stiff 4-PW: :mizuno: JPX 800 PRO - Nippon 1150 GH Tour - Stiff Wedges: :edel: 50/56/60 - Nippon WV 125 Putter/Ball/RF: :edel: / :bridgestone: B330 / :leupold: GX-3i

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On fishing rods finding the spine is critical. (It's also easier to find then a golf shaft)  When the spines at 3 or 9 o'clock the rod won't cast straight, not an issue with a deep sea pole, but critical with a fly rod.  From this I would assume that I want my golf clubs spine in line with impact, which is not 12 o'clock like a fishing pole.

My club fitter tells me that I don't swing fast enough for it to make a difference, which is probably true.  If I had a 110 mph swing I would have my graphite shafts spined.

PS: Most fishing poles are assembled with the logo up, including some very expensive custom jobs. But, you can be certain the rod maker builds his own rods around the spine.

"Quick Dorthy....the oil can!"

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Note: This thread is 4610 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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