Why were woods made of wood?

[James_Black]

We basically always had irons that were made of metal, why weren't fairway woods made of metal until recently?

Were they too heavy or something?

[Shagbag]

Primarily because of weight. In the early days of the game all clubs were made from wood so as not to damage the ball. As the ball evolved to be made out of hard rubber, clubs made of steel began to be made and were called "irons". Wood continued to be used for Drivers and Fairway woods because of the weight considerations. As steel alloys improved and became lighter and lighter, companies began to experiment with making woods out of metal. I think Taylor Made marketed the first actual "metal" wood in the late 1970's.

[Clambake]

Also the analytic capabilities and manufacturing processes were not sufficiently evolved. It took a lot of computational power to do the stress and failure mode analyses needed to make the really thin metal shell, along with new welding techniques to work with such thin metals.

[delav]

It's also important to consider the manufacturing technologies over time. Investment casting technology has rapidly developed over time. Early metal woods were just that... metal shaped over a wooden or foam core. Large, thin, lightweight metal castings are a result of modern technology.

As for irons... although irons of the 50's, 60's, 70's and 80's were metal, they were not complex cavity back clubs like we have today. Manufacturing the tooling for a forged or cast muscleback is a less intricate process than designing the tooling for a perimeter weight cavity back. The same could be said for a modern GI iron, which would have been largely impossible to manufacture back in the days of musclebacks and wooden woods.

[bigoak]

Balata balls could be cut by a wooden driver. A metal fairway club could do more damage. Persimmon is a hard wood. The modern golf ball and modern equipment is a fantastic improvement. With the Balata ball, pros were digging out a new ball at least every 4 holes. Compared to the hand work to make a wood, the modern drivers should be a fraction of the selling prices. I remember gluing a wooden head and whipping the hosel, adjusting the lead weights under the sole plate, resealing the sole and eventually refinishing the head. Today just buy a new head, glue it up, adjust to the weight you want and you're off to the range.

[WUTiger]

When Gary Adams founded TaylorMade in 1979 and started making metal woods, it was not the first time the idea had been tried.

Classic club guru Jeff Ellis talks about early 1900s metal woods in a Forbes magazine interview. He has written two books on the history of golf clubs.
http://www.forbes.com/2005/08/15/gol...16conn_ls.html

As far as steel-shafted wooden headed clubs go, most were fashioned out of persimmon or other hardwood. Many underwent a process called oil-hardening (sorry, I don't know how it worked).

From a scientific standpoint, wooden-headed clubs had an occasional problem with wood knots in the head. Occasionally, off-center knots would create unintended draw-bias or fade-bias in certain clubs. As a caddie in the 1960s, I remember the pro ordering replacement clubs for members because a driver "just wouldn't hit right."

While this was only an occasional problem, it does how the imperfections of wooden heads, as opposed to metal heads designed by aerospace engineers.

I played a persimmon-headed MacGregor MT driver until 1994, and I never really had a jumbo driver (460 cc.) until 2008.

One difference between the two:
* With persimmon-headed driver... After I got warmed up during a round, I couldreally "jump on" a couple of tee shots on the back nine for extra distance.
* With my current driver... I hit good drives with a slow and smooth swing, but if I "jump on" one it flies into never-never-land. Possibly has to do with jumbo head + longer shaft. (Or, maybe the fact I have a 19 HDCP)

Note on Custom persimmon: If someone made you a custom driver or fairway wood out of a persimmon head block, a good clubsmith could adjust the lie angle to slightly upright or slightly flat. Not many current metal-wood makers offer this.

[Shindig]

Compared to the hand work to make a wood, the modern drivers should be a fraction of the selling prices.

If the only expense in making them was the manufacturing, I suspect you'd be right. But they have to pay R&D; and marketing, among other expenses.

[sean_miller]

* With persimmon-headed driver... After I got warmed up during a round, I couldreally "jump on" a couple of tee shots on the back nine for extra distance.

I never found old metal drivers to be any longer than a good persimmon driver on good hits, but they were more consistent on mishits. Now though, I'd say my best strike on a persimmon head and my G10 is about 30 yards difference.

With the G10 though, swinging that pumpkin on a stick is best done smoothly. I can't go after it like those old drivers. It's probably shaft and torque related, but it seemed like the harder you swung a persimmon driver the straighter it went. Is that selective memory?

[allin]

I believe all of the factors listed were part of it. Availablity of materials, availablity of craftsmen, cost, durability. After all the first big user of metalwoods was driving ranges.

[James_Black]

I never found old metal drivers to be any longer than a good persimmon driver on good hits, but they were more consistent on mishits. Now though, I'd say my best strike on a persimmon head and my G10 is about 30 yards difference.

The reason you could go for it (well what I think) is that the ball flew lower. When I hit my 2 wood, unless I tee it high I can keep the ball low and let it roll out, if it goes towards Ob the rough will slow it down (hopefully). With my Cobra the ball just keeps flying into the trees.

[JWL1957]

Some driving ranges had metal drivers in the late 60's. They were clunky looking things with a hollow bottom.

[sean_miller]

The reason you could go for it (well what I think) is that the ball flew lower.

Not sure about that. The ball flew a bit lower due to a higher centre of gravity, but the ball spent more time on the face, so sidespin was higher too. You've never seen a slice until you've seen a wound ball sliced with a wood wood - especially those plasticy things Northwestern and Campbell used to make.

[Gerald]

I had two super fairway woods in the old days (25 yrs ago) from Daiwa Whisker and they were totally "Graphite", I should have framed the 5 Wood,,,,,, it brought me an Albatros once ...... still it is near unbelievable, but I somehow managed to hit the second shot on a par 5 at least 240 yds with it, we were sure it would have reached the green, but we couldn't find it ..... it was in the hole.....

Anyway I still don't like the modern 3 and 5 woods ....... if I bumb into such a graphite 5 wood...... I might well buy it instantly, by today standards sure not a great club, but you could really hit these things.

Besides that as far as I remember the good old persimmon driver with a steel shaft, went also way over 225-240 yds off the tee, and on really good shots 250-275 yds was possible, not as easy as today, but who cares ....... just only a few real good strikers would be able to hit these now.

[sean_miller]

I had two super fairway woods in the old days (25 yrs ago) from Daiwa . . .

Play a round of golf with the Daiwas then settle in with a drink and some video golf . . .

Attachment 2441

[Gerald]

No even better, I bought one at eBay a few minutes ago, at only $8 ..... can't wait to take it with me along the modern superstuff in my bag, anyone looking in my bag...... LOL.

[James_Black]

Not sure about that. The ball flew a bit lower due to a higher centre of gravity, but the ball spent more time on the face, so sidespin was higher too. You've never seen a slice until you've seen a wound ball sliced with a wood wood - especially those plasticy things Northwestern and Campbell used to make.

I haven't played golf with a balata though.

I've only played with a ultra, slazenger ect if I'm hitting my old clubs.