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Posted
As you should have understook I'm looking for a good SandWedge and i can't make up my mind.
I'm an Hp29 and i'm tired of using my Mizuno (MX-100 perimethral) which is huge and can't get trough the ball so well. I would like to buy a good sand that would allow me to make good Pitching Shots to make the ball fly high and make it roll very few (the less the better)at the impact with the ground.
My Golf Course ground is a mixture of softness and hardness. The ground is very soft because it's often rainy but bunkers are as hard as stones. I thought about a middle Bounce, maybe 8.
I woulde have liked to buy a Vokey Spin Milled Chrome or Oil (56°) but i don't know if it can be good for a novice like me. What do you think about it? Is it good for me or not? Even if i won't be able to use the 100% of its capabilities, that would be okay to use it at its 60% and improve my approach with time and training.
What do you say? And if the vokey is not good for me why don't you tell me which SW i could use? xD
Leon

P.s.:And was my Bounce idea okay?

Posted
Any decent wedge will be fine for you -- Vokey, Cleveland, Callaway etc. I think you'd probably be better off with a little more bounce though, maybe 10 - 12 degrees.

Stretch.

"In the process of trial and error, our failed attempts are meant to destroy arrogance and provoke humility." -- Master Jin Kwon

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Posted
It's a purely cosmetic choice. Pick whichever finish you prefer and just be aware that the un-chromed ones will weather and rust. Doesn't affect performance either way.

Stretch.

"In the process of trial and error, our failed attempts are meant to destroy arrogance and provoke humility." -- Master Jin Kwon

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Posted
I have 14* of bounce on my SW.
Bounce isn't a bad thing, it stops the wedge digging in on soft ground/bunkers.

Chrome wedges are nice but when it starts wearing off they look terrible.
I'd pick the oil can because you'll get an even coat of rust, not just the sole and the parts of the face where you hit the ball most of the time.

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...


Posted
I have 14* of bounce on my SW.

It took about a decade for the chrome on my Mizunos Pros to start visible signs of wearing through. After 15 years (off and on - been hoing lately) in the bag, they look a helluva lot better than that rusted POS "oil can" I got last summer. I was so familiar with the BeCu wedges from the 80s that I didn't realize the Oil Can "finish" was actually a lack of finish. Everyone has a right to their opinion when it comes to aesthetics, and my opinion is that picking up a club designed to begin rusting almost immediately after wearing off those ridiculous swirls, was possibly the stupidest equipment related purchase I've ever made.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
A non-shiny chrome finish will probably show bag wear less, and sand abrasion less.

As for bounce, are you a digger or a sweeper, or in between? People with steeper swing descent can use bounce more than people with a shallower one. Note that high bounce wedges can ricochet off of hard sand or ground and cause you to skull shots.

Also, wedges have the shortest shafts of all clubs. Thus, they are easier to control. Middle HDCP players can learn to use smaller-headed specialty wedges - it just takes a little practice. Also, tapping "full capabilities" of the wedge come with practice, and learning to hit some of the more "specialty" shots - as long as you can use them.

Check out club designer's Ralph Maltby link on the playability of wedges - it discusses bounce and other things:
http://www.ralphmaltby.com/50

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  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
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Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
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Posted
It took about a decade for the chrome on my Mizunos Pros to start visible signs of wearing through. After 15 years (off and on - been hoing lately) in the bag, they look a helluva lot better than that rusted POS "oil can" I got last summer. I was so familiar with the BeCu wedges from the 80s that I didn't realize the Oil Can "finish" was actually a lack of finish. Everyone has a right to their opinion when it comes to aesthetics, and my opinion is that picking up a club designed to begin rusting almost immediately after wearing off those ridiculous swirls, was possibly the stupidest equipment related purchase I've ever made.

good point.

I just hate looking at my vokeys now though, scratches aren't too bad but when they start to rust they look 10x worse. I think it's because the vokeys are made of a softer steel and bang up pretty easily compared to other cast wedges. I have some ancient wedges that got a lot of use which haven't started yet. if you look after the oil-can wedges they shouldn't rust too much

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...


Posted
good point.

Oil can rusts basically no matter what.

If you look after chrome you should never see rust.

Waiting out the 2 feet of snow that just dropped on the course....


Posted
I am not sure if the standard finish is chrome. But it is the lighter finish and I love it! Coming from Oil Can Clevelands I have not missed a beat. I also like them when it starts to get dark on twighlight rounds of golf. Easy to see the club head. (very occasionally I get a glare off of them but nothing serious)

In my SasQuatch carry bag.
909D2 9.5* (Aldila Voodo Shaft)
FT 3W 15* (Fujikura E370 Shaft Stiff Flex)
FT Hybrid 21* Nuetral (Fujikura Fit On M Hybrid Stiff Flex)
FT Hybrid 24* Nuetral (Fujikura Fit On M Hybrid Stiff Flex)Irons: X22 Tour 5 thru PW (True Temper Dynamic Gold S300) 2* upright (also...


Posted
Oil can rusts basically no matter what.

you will see rust on chrome if you wear it away.

You should get a thin layer on oil can's but some people deliberately leave them out in the rain to make them rust quicker and they look terrible after a few months.

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...


Posted
just get the tomwatson ones off rockbottomgolf
full set for like 60-70 bucks and they're pretty good wedges

My Clubs:
Ping I3 + blade 3-pw
9.5 09 Burner with prolaunch red
Nickent 4dx driver
Taylormade Z tp 52, 56, 60
YES Carolyne putter


Posted
I have 14* of bounce on my SW.

It also makes you much more susceptible to skulling the ball right over the green.

Waiting out the 2 feet of snow that just dropped on the course....


Posted
It also makes you much more susceptible to skulling the ball right over the green.

that's a myth, way over-hyped.

how do you skull the ball? if you hit the ball above the equator line. as long as you hit it with a descending swing it'll be ok. It's not as if once you take out a 14* wedge you'll skull all your chips.

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...


Posted
that's a myth, way over-hyped.

And on the other side digging in on all your chips is a myth too.

You don't buy a higher bounce "because you won't dig in as easy" you but it because you're a digger. A sweeper always uses low bounce as it works for them.

Waiting out the 2 feet of snow that just dropped on the course....


Posted
There are pros and cons to different types of wedges, and different levels of bounce. But -high bounce doesn't make you skull the ball, low bounce doesn't make you dig in under the ball, and a Vokey or other blade style wedge doesn't make it easier to "get through" the ball than a cavity back wedge. No matter what anyone says. I'm not knocking personal preference, I prefer a blade wedge myself-but not because it "gets through" the ball better than a cavity back wedge.

Note: This thread is 5524 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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