• Announcements

    • iacas

      Introducing TST "Clubs!"   08/28/2017

      No, we're not getting into the equipment business, but we do have "clubs" here on TST now. Groups. Check them out here:
Sign in to follow this  
johnclayton1982

new shafts for irons - now playing all different

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I play callaway X-20 irons 7-SW, and Cobra Baffler rail hybrids 4-6 (sig needs to be updated).  I really like the setup, but I have a few issues.  Over time, I've lost a few of the clubs on the course, and a car ran over my original AW.  As a result, I've been buying irons from callaway pre-owned and ebay to replace, but due to stock issues and price issues (as well as me not really getting into golf until xmas of this past year), I didn't pay much attention to the shafts in the irons.  As a result, I have different shafts across several of my irons.  In my 7,9, PW and SW I have Callaway Uniflex Steel, in my 8 iron I have Callaway Graphite, and in my AW I have an aftermarket graphite.  In the 4 hybrid I have an alida NV shaft, and in the 5,6 Hybrids I have the stock Motore shaft from Cobra.

I hit my 8 iron about as far as my 7, and the only difference is the shaft.  For some reason that graphite shaft in the 8 gets the ball up and gets it far with the same swing.  I have a much harder time getting the four off the ground than the five and the six.  Sure, some is due to loft, but after looking up the shaft in the 4 hybrid I found it has a low launch, where the stock shaft is mid-high so that might have something to do with it.  I also love the Callaway grips and hate the cobra grips.

Due to an uptick in business recently, I want to go ahead and get new shafts so that they are consistent across the set.  I have searched old threads and found quite a few discussing new iron shafts but haven't found answers to exactly what I am looking for.

Some stuff about me:

My 150 club is my six iron hybrid (this didn't use to be the case, but after taking lessons my distance went down and my accuracy went way, way up).

I shoot in the high eighties on the relatively easy course I play at, and mid-90s at the hard course.  My handicap is 18.

I swing about 86-90 mph.

I would like a high launch angle, as my shots by nature are usually low flight (too low) rather than higher.

Questions:

Can I put the same shaft in my hybrids as the rest of the irons?

Should I use a different shafts in the wedges?

My favorite club is the 8 iron, regular flex, graphite - and it goes about 135-140, the same as the seven iron with uniflex steel.

I think I want graphite because I don't experience with the graphite shafts the "ball spray" problem that some discuss.

Ever since I got steel shafts (my previous Iron set, a cobra s9 2007, had graphite), my hands have experienced some significant pain after playing 3 or 4 days in a row.

So, I think I want graphite, regular flex, high launch angle for the irons and hybrids?

Any input would be much appreciated.  I'd like to get 4-SW new shafts and the callaway grips and would love suggestions on the shafts.  Thanks!

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Sign up (or log in) today! It's free (and you won't see this ad anymore)!

Sign up (or log in) today! It's free (and you won't see this ad anymore)!

I looked at the cost of doing this, and found the cost to replace the shafts on all my irons with anything decent was more than a new set would cost.  It may not be the same for you, but I'd compare prices.  The Callaway Uniflex is between a regular flex and stiff flex.  The graphite shaft might be regular flex which would indicate your swing speed is better suited to regular shafts.  I'd go to a pro shop and get fitted.

As for shafts between irons, hybrids and woods I've never heard of matching the woods and irons, but some have matched hybrids and irons.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I think you should find a used set of Adams "a" series irons with regular Grafalloy red graphite shafts.  Based on your swing speed and experience with graphite, this is my #1 recommendation.  If you want to go the shaft route, get on ebay and order some Aldila VS Proto 85 gram regular shafts.  They are a bit pricey, but worth it.  I think you will need the .355 size tips, but you can check with Callaway to be sure.  Aldila makes the VS Proto for hybrids too, so matching will not tbe a problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This would be my thinking as well.  You are probably looking at $45 per club for the shaft, intallation, and grip.  So probably close to $400 by the time taxes are figured in.  Your best bet would be to sell what you have and hit up the used market for some new sticks.

Originally Posted by newtogolf

I looked at the cost of doing this, and found the cost to replace the shafts on all my irons with anything decent was more than a new set would cost.  It may not be the same for you, but I'd compare prices.  The Callaway Uniflex is between a regular flex and stiff flex.  The graphite shaft might be regular flex which would indicate your swing speed is better suited to regular shafts.  I'd go to a pro shop and get fitted.

As for shafts between irons, hybrids and woods I've never heard of matching the woods and irons, but some have matched hybrids and irons.



Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  



  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • 2017 TST Partners

    Talamore Golf Resort
    PING Golf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Mission Belt
    Snell Golf
    Frogger Golf
    PitchFix USA
  • Posts

    • Thanks @1badbadger. Hopefully, you know I was joking about buying a ball based on what's printed on the box. I'll re-think my opinion about the ball not making a difference and consider going to a launch monitor. I'll have to make some calls in the area concerning a fitter I can trust. With my present swing, I think spin is likely more an enemy than a friend. I associate low compression with less spin, probably due to information on the web. Whether that is too much of a generalization, I don't know. My iron swing produces a high shot with less roll out - even a well-struck long iron. It's both a tendency and a preference. My short game does not involve any attempt to control spin - other than trying to avoid a thin chip or pitch. My driver is a mess right now, but it's all poor mechanics. When I am able to hit a good driver shot, it's higher with less roll out. It's not uncommon to get almost none - possibly due as much to the wet fairways I often play as anything. A two-way miss due to hook or slice spin is not uncommon. This is why I think lower spin would be better, but as you suggested, all these things should show up on a launch monitor and a qualified fitter would be able to make suggestions. Regarding the most expensive not necessarily being the best fit, I will add this... I find a lot of golf balls in the woods at my course and ProV 1's are one of the most common. While I'm partial to playing Titleist's DT Solo or TruSoft on the course, the ProV1's I find are used strictly for practice.
    • Since i was 9 or 10 years old i have been fascinated with miltary history (first grown up book i read was 1st edition of Stephen Ambrose's Band of Brothers). I've studied, researched and read about WW1 and WW2 tech, tactics and personal accounts for years and decided to move to a different era (not that there isnt more to learn cos' there is....lots) So i'm starting to read up on the Vietnam war, again about the tech, tactics and personal accounts. I have "Rolling thunder in a gentle land" which is a good broad account but a little heavy on the political side, and "Chickenhawk" which is incredible story of a Huey pilot. Any of you guys have any recommedations?
    • Granted, but as I said, this group did spend a fair bit of time looking for lost balls. They did hit a few provisionals, but you could see them looking for balls in the distance and then drop a ball from shoulder height into the fairway, so like many golfers they made up their own rules. If everyone did follow the rules to the letter, just think how much slower rounds would be! I like to play with new people regularly, and often the discussion on the first tee is 'what do we do about the lost ball rule?' Outside serious competition the 'walk of shame' rule is universally ignored, so why the pretense that it's a good rule? Like a lot of the other dumb rules that are being dumped in 2019, the governing bodies should have dumped this as well, if only in amateur golf! Andy
    • It all depends on the skill of the mushy human holding the club to be honest. I know far too many weekend and occasional golfers who drop £300+ on brand irons and £200+ drivers and i rock up with my £45 Hippo Beasts and £30 Ping G5 and i beat them (and im a crap golfer ). If you play a lot of golf then you'll benefit from investing in the more expensive clubs and fitting. Rec golfers can do fine with better priced clubs and pre loved clubs. just a quick note to @The Club Nut, fitting is great for many people but not essential. My Uncle is 70 yrs young, played since he was 10 and was a top amateur in the 60's and 70's (decided not to go Pro as he wanted a family) and he had his first ever custom fit for Ping's last year. His feedback? "Lovely clubs, hit them just as well as my Dunlop back-up clubs", typical Yorkhireman!!  
    • To answer your question, I would regard the area beyond the fairway where one feels the ball is lost to be a ‘lateral hazard’ and then drop the ball according to the current hazard rules. Namely, drop within two club-lengths of, and not nearer the hole than, the point where the ball last crossed the margin of the hazard (In the case of a lost ball, the margin would be the fairway edge) . Not always easy to determine where the ball crossed the margin, but then hooking a shot 200 yds away into a lateral water hazard that runs the length of the fairway poses the same problem at the moment.  However, unlike the lateral hazard rule, add 2 penalty shots not one. So in your scenario, the golfer who hit his shot behind a tree would lie 2, and the golfer who lost a ball would lie 3 Another option would be to adopt Speedgolf rules, but adding 2 penalty shots. See below     Andy  
  • Blog Entries

  • Today's Birthdays

    1. KingHack82
      KingHack82
      (35 years old)
    2. TobyC
      TobyC
      (50 years old)
  • Get Great Gear with Amazon