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Posted

I remember reading a while back either on golf.com or golftipsmag.com a lesson (can't remember under what category) discussing divots, their starting point and their relation to where you address/tee up the ball. I was hoping to work on the start point of my divot recently (my divot usually starts a bit behind the ball - of course there are shots where I do not take a divot at all) but cannot find the same lesson I was looking for.

Does anyone remember seeing this lesson? Also does anyone have good pointers on taking an ideal divot (starting AT the ball and not behind). I envy Tiger's ability to rip up the field, but even smaller "LPGA" divots will keep me happy.

 

 

 

 


Posted
Just try to hit the ball first with a downward blow. The divot will be in the right place - whether it's shallow or deep.

Driver: Superquad 9.5° - XS
3 Wood: Big Bertha II 15° - S
Irons: Mizuno MX-20
Wedges: Mizuno 50-06, 56-11, 60-05
Putter: Hog Mallet


Posted
Trying to make a perfect divot probably isn't going to help you hit the ball well. The right mechanics will produce a good divot. The first step is to have some foward shaft lean because without that, you won't be taking any divot.

Posted
There was a lesson online about divots and their position. I just figured tha since I do take a divot on some shots, I could use this lesson to work my mechanics towards pushing my divot forward and getting cleaner contact.

 

 

 

 


Posted
I take a ball and place it outside my swing path the same place in my stance as the ball I'm striking, this way you can see how fat you hit after your swing and not have to guess.

What's In The Bag
Driver: TM Burner stiff
3i Cleveland Hibore Hybrid
3-6: MX-23
7-PW: MP-60 Project X 5.5SW: Golden Bear hybridLW/GW Cleveland 60* and Tour Edge 50*Putter: two bar rifle malletBall: NXT TourHome Course: Raintree CC 70.7/126 North 71/130 Southhttp://stink.net


Posted
i made a threaad about this a while ago but just make a good swing and really fully extend your arms. a few weeks a go i couldnt make a divot with a sand wedge and now im destroying the turf. divots should be about and inch infront of the ball.
What's In My Custom Bagboy Fleicshmans Bag:
Driver: Hibore with Aldila NV 65
Irons: CG2 Irons 3-PW
Wedges: 56 degree Reg.588 Tour Action Chrome Finish, 60 degree Vokey Design, vokey design 52*
Putter: milled series #3Hybrid: Rescue Mid 25 degree3 Wood: War HawkGolf Balls: Serious Play ...

Posted
I saw an article in golf magazine, (this month or last) suggesting to put a tee next to the back of the ball. Then hit the shot, the begining of the divot shouldnt start before the tee. Keep adjusting till you get it right. This worked for me.

In the bag:

Burner 10.5
Rescue mid 16, 19, 22, 25
X-16 irons Forged+ Vintage 48, 54, 60 Circa 62 #3 A009125


Posted
I remember reading a while back either on golf.com or golftipsmag.com a lesson (can't remember under what category) discussing divots, their starting point and their relation to where you address/tee up the ball. I was hoping to work on the start point of my divot recently (my divot usually starts a bit behind the ball - of course there are shots where I do not take a divot at all) but cannot find the same lesson I was looking for.

To strike the ball properly, you must have a flat left wrist (for righties at impact) and the low point of your swing needs to be 4" past the ball. Because of that, your divot should begin AFTER the ball, with the low point 4" past the ball.

Driver- Geek Dot Com This! 12 degree Matrix Ozik Xcon 6 Stiff
Adams Tour Issue 4350 Dual Can Matrix Ozik Xcon 5

Hybrids- Srixon 18 deg
Srixon 21 deg Irons- Tourstage Z101 3-PW w/Nippon NS Pro 950 GH - Stiff Srixon i701 4-PW w/ Nippon NS Pro 950 GH-Stiff MacGregor...


Posted
This is probably really poor mechanics, but I hardly ever have a follow through when taking a divot. When I find myself 135 and in I find myself concentrating on striking down on the ball. This produces a nice high shot that stops and backs up everytime, and takes the perfect divots. My finish usually does not come up past my hip on my left side. The mechanics are likely off, but it has produced great results that leaves me with a two putt and the most.

EGS

910 D3 9.5* Aldila RIP S 70 g
Burner 3 wood 15 * S
Bruner Hybrid 19* S MP-60 S300 4-PW CG 14 52*/10* TP Z 56*/12* TP Z 60*/6* Studio Select Laguna 1.5


Posted
This is probably really poor mechanics, but I hardly ever have a follow through when taking a divot. When I find myself 135 and in I find myself concentrating on striking down on the ball. This produces a nice high shot that stops and backs up everytime, and takes the perfect divots. My finish usually does not come up past my hip on my left side. The mechanics are likely off, but it has produced great results that leaves me with a two putt and the most.

Nothing wrong with that that's a punch shot.

Driver- Geek Dot Com This! 12 degree Matrix Ozik Xcon 6 Stiff
Adams Tour Issue 4350 Dual Can Matrix Ozik Xcon 5

Hybrids- Srixon 18 deg
Srixon 21 deg Irons- Tourstage Z101 3-PW w/Nippon NS Pro 950 GH - Stiff Srixon i701 4-PW w/ Nippon NS Pro 950 GH-Stiff MacGregor...


Posted
I suppose that is it. For some reason I always had it in my head that a punch was a low flying ball resulting from a half swing further up in your stance, but I guess it has more to do with the follow through than anything. But like I said, it works!

EGS

910 D3 9.5* Aldila RIP S 70 g
Burner 3 wood 15 * S
Bruner Hybrid 19* S MP-60 S300 4-PW CG 14 52*/10* TP Z 56*/12* TP Z 60*/6* Studio Select Laguna 1.5


Posted
yea i always considered a punch shot to be a low shot thats used to get under/through trees, etc. id probably consider a really high shot with alot of spin from 130 in to be more of a pitch or flop shot. just my thoughts though.

as far as divots go i personally never take one. not for any shot but ive never had a big problem with GIR and if im not really having a problem i dont see any reason to change to divots.

Driver: Taylor Made Burner 9.5*
Woods: Callaway X 3 Wood 15*
Hybrids: Callaway X 2 Hybrid 18*
Irons: Callaway X Forged (3-9)
Wedges: Callaway X Tour 54*Wedges: Callaway Forged+ (52*, 56*)Putter: Heavy PutterBall: Callaway HX Tour


Posted
Thanks for the replies. At the range yesterday instead of worrying about my divot I worried about fine tuning the other parts of my swing (grip, shoulder tilt, spine angle etc) and it seemed that automatically set me up for a nice divot.

 

 

 

 


Posted
In Bobby Clampett's book he maintains that the deepest point of your divot needs to be 4 inches in front of the ball. He points to a study (sorry, don't have the book with me)which showed how player handicap was related to divots. Went something like: Pro 4 inches in front, scratch 2inches, single digits at the ball, double digits before the ball. Don't hold me to these, but you get the idea.

Ben

Posted
In Bobby Clampett's book he maintains that the deepest point of your divot needs to be 4 inches in front of the ball. He points to a study (sorry, don't have the book with me)which showed how player handicap was related to divots. Went something like: Pro 4 inches in front, scratch 2inches, single digits at the ball, double digits before the ball. Don't hold me to these, but you get the idea.

I don't know if your numbers are exact, but I'll tell you this. You will never see a TOUR player who regularly takes no divot, or takes one even with or in front of the ball.

Driver- Geek Dot Com This! 12 degree Matrix Ozik Xcon 6 Stiff
Adams Tour Issue 4350 Dual Can Matrix Ozik Xcon 5

Hybrids- Srixon 18 deg
Srixon 21 deg Irons- Tourstage Z101 3-PW w/Nippon NS Pro 950 GH - Stiff Srixon i701 4-PW w/ Nippon NS Pro 950 GH-Stiff MacGregor...


Note: This thread is 6690 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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