Wedges

[David in FL]

EXACTLY

But then, we're not pro's. That's the problem, too many players of modest ability try to emulate the game of a tour pro. No wonder they struggle......

[purple drank]

But then, we're not pro's. That's the problem, too many players of modest ability try to emulate the game of a tour pro. No wonder they struggle......

The first time I saw a chipper was about 10 years ago. It was made by Top Flite of all companies. lol I thought they only made balls. At any rate he used it on every hole from 15 yards and in. I wasn't sure it was legal as I had never seen one and it didnt perform all that well.

[purple drank]

Each to their own like Arnie says.

[Lowkie]

Each to their own like Arnie says.

I completely agree, you apparently like the Seahawks and we don't judge you about you bad decision there LOL, just kidding I'm originally from Seattle.

[Mr. Desmond]

Overstock usually has good prices.

But $200+ for a Hireko Chipper?

http://www.overstock.com/Sports-Toys/Hireko-Golf-True-Ace-Chipper/8019272/product.html

Someone didn't see this thread about cheap chippers.

[purple drank]

I completely agree, you apparently like the Seahawks and we don't judge you about you bad decision there LOL, just kidding I'm originally from Seattle.

Thanks and yes I bleed blue and green. This seems to be the year for us having the most complete team I've ever seen.

[purple drank]

Overstock usually has good prices. But $200+ for a Hireko Chipper? [URL=http://www.overstock.com/Sports-Toys/Hireko-Golf-True-Ace-Chipper/8019272/product.html]http://www.overstock.com/Sports-Toys/Hireko-Golf-True-Ace-Chipper/8019272/product.html[/URL] Someone didn't see this thread about cheap chippers.

OUCH...but then again the acer on that same link is only 31 bucks. Mr D would you game one of these??

[Lihu]

The first time I saw a chipper was about 10 years ago. It was made by Top Flite of all companies. lol I thought they only made balls. At any rate he used it on every hole from 15 yards and in. I wasn't sure it was legal as I had never seen one and it didnt perform all that well.

Maybe they got lots of complaints on why their balls don't spin enough on the green, and got tired of explaining it to their customers?

[Lihu]

Overstock usually has good prices.

But $200+ for a Hireko Chipper?

http://www.overstock.com/Sports-Toys/Hireko-Golf-True-Ace-Chipper/8019272/product.html

Someone didn't see this thread about cheap chippers.

Not exactly conforming, is it?

Maybe they relabeled it as a high loft putter?

[purple drank]

Maybe they got lots of complaints on why their balls don't spin enough on the green, and got tired of explaining it to their customers?

IKR

[Welkin]

Should a sand wedge be used when not in the sand? particularly when in thicker grass?

I'm a really bad weekend hack, I've finally started getting some lessons to try and learn the basics but I want to put some more time into my short game as well and I thought to start with I should get clear in my head what clubs to work with and not get caught up in changing around all the time.

I currently have a PW (45), SW (54) and a LW (64), the LW I haven't been using. I'm happy hitting the PW ~ 100m and have been using the SW for shots closer than ~ 50m but my friends have been saying that I shouldn't use a SW ( I flub enough shots with it but then at the moment I do that with most clubs).

I just want to be able to get the ball 10m to 30 m to the somewhere on the green without it rolling on too far. Not sure I want to go back to the LW but would it be worth me getting something like a 58 wedge for those closer shots or am I better off with the PW or SW?

Sorry for the ramble but first post and I thought I'd be better off joining a thread rather than starting a new one.

[MiniBlueDragon]

Should a sand wedge be used when not in the sand? particularly when in thicker grass?

I'm a really bad weekend hack, I've finally started getting some lessons to try and learn the basics but I want to put some more time into my short game as well and I thought to start with I should get clear in my head what clubs to work with and not get caught up in changing around all the time.

I currently have a PW (45), SW (54) and a LW (64), the LW I haven't been using. I'm happy hitting the PW ~ 100m and have been using the SW for shots closer than ~ 50m but my friends have been saying that I shouldn't use a SW ( I flub enough shots with it but then at the moment I do that with most clubs).

I just want to be able to get the ball 10m to 30 m to the somewhere on the green without it rolling on too far. Not sure I want to go back to the LW but would it be worth me getting something like a 58 wedge for those closer shots or am I better off with the PW or SW?

Sorry for the ramble but first post and I thought I'd be better off joining a thread rather than starting a new one.

I'd try and look at wedges from the perspective of their loft and bounce instead of their label. I use:

50.06 - Would be labelled as my AW
54.09 - Would be labelled as my SW
58.10 - Would be labelled as my LW

With my R12's I didn't have any option regarding bounce for the lofts I wanted but to be honest the bounces are perfect:

50.06 I'd likely be using for my 100y approach shots and hopefully from the fairway or if not in the fairway it's likely to be light-mid rough and the bounce is "ok" for that too.
54.09 Useful for shots from thicker rough.
58.10 Perfect for greenside bunkers as it has plenty of bounce.

I'd use any of the above clubs though if the lie warranted it, e.g.

Chip shot from the fairway from 30y out with the ball on bare ground greenside - 50.06 to minimise the likelihood of thinning it.
Ball in deep rough but miles from the hole - 58.10 to minimise sliding under the ball and just get it back into the fairway.

If you can think of wedges in terms of what they can do rather than their label you'll be able to play more suitable shots IMO.

[Ernest Jones]

SW wedge is just a high bounce wedge. It can be used anywhere on the course, in fact it's kind of arbitrary which club you deem to be your sand wedge, it's really just the club you choose to use as your primary out of bunkers. Typically they fall within 54*-58* but even that is not written in stone. My "sandwedge" is a 56* and it easily sees the most action, followed by my 60*, out of all my wedges (52-56-60) from all kinds of lies.

[Welkin]

Thanks for the replies, I suppose what I'm wondering about is more the bounce than the label and I wasn't really sure how bounce affected how suited a club was to different areas. I don't know what bounce my SW has but seeing as that's how it's stamped I'll assume it's at the higher end. The course I play most at is pretty hard, fairways, rough and especially the bunkers so I'm thinking something like a 58 but with less bounce might be a decent starting club for around the greens and greenside bunkers.

[MiniBlueDragon]

I'd speak to your club professional and ask what bounce he recommends for your home course for each wedge and see what he says. Even showing him your SW and having him say "this is ideal" will fill you with the confidence you need to try the club in different situations.

[Ernest Jones]

Thanks for the replies, I suppose what I'm wondering about is more the bounce than the label and I wasn't really sure how bounce affected how suited a club was to different areas. I don't know what bounce my SW has but seeing as that's how it's stamped I'll assume it's at the higher end. The course I play most at is pretty hard, fairways, rough and especially the bunkers so I'm thinking something like a 58 but with less bounce might be a decent starting club for around the greens and greenside bunkers.

With chipping and full swings bounce is largely irrelevant because you (hopefully) have a forward leaning shaft. Bounce becomes relevant when hitting shots with little to no forward shaft lean such as pitches, flops and sand (in the case of sand shots it may even be negative shaft lean depending on your technique) and generally speaking the more bounce the better. Common misconception is that too much bounce will make the club "bounce" up and blade the ball when in reality it is the exact opposite. Highly recommend looking at the Edel wedge threads for some very good info on bounce and how to use it.

[MiniBlueDragon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Handicap

Thanks for the replies, I suppose what I'm wondering about is more the bounce than the label and I wasn't really sure how bounce affected how suited a club was to different areas. I don't know what bounce my SW has but seeing as that's how it's stamped I'll assume it's at the higher end. The course I play most at is pretty hard, fairways, rough and especially the bunkers so I'm thinking something like a 58 but with less bounce might be a decent starting club for around the greens and greenside bunkers.

With chipping and full swings bounce is largely irrelevant because you (hopefully) have a forward leaning shaft.

Bounce becomes relevant when hitting shots with little to no forward shaft lean such as pitches, flops and sand (in the case of sand shots it may even be negative shaft lean depending on your technique) and generally speaking the more bounce the better. Common misconception is that too much bounce will make the club "bounce" up and blade the ball when in reality it is the exact opposite.

Highly recommend looking at the Edel wedge threads for some very good info on bounce and how to use it.

I learn something new every day. I've always been under the impression that to completely make bounce irrelevant on a shot the forward shaft lean has to be greater than the amount of bounce, e.g. with my 58.10 I'd need to have 10 degrees of forward shaft lean to completely remove the bounce, otherwise the bounce will still be used to some degree.

From personal experience with the 58.10 off hard lies blading the ball happens far more often as the bounce simply can't go into the ground enough to slide under the ball without manufacturing shaft lean to prevent it.

Time to find the Edel thread methinks! :)

[Ernest Jones]

I learn something new every day. I've always been under the impression that to completely make bounce irrelevant on a shot the forward shaft lean has to be greater than the amount of bounce, e.g. with my 58.10 I'd need to have 10 degrees of forward shaft lean to completely remove the bounce, otherwise the bounce will still be used to some degree. From personal experience with the 58.10 off hard lies blading the ball happens far more often as the bounce simply can't go into the ground enough to slide under the ball without manufacturing shaft lean to prevent it. Time to find the Edel thread methinks! :)

There's vids on here of Mike hitting pitches off of a putting green, Erik hitting pitches off of a carpet laid over concrete and there are lots of online videos of Stan Utley hitting wedges in a parking lot all with high bounce wedges.