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Posted
Can I remove the head w/o a propane torch? Have never handled a torch, other than for desserts. Should be ok for a newbie, careful precautions taken, right? Will a heat gun do? How much of a chance is there for a newbie to mess up the first shaft? Figure I might need to buy extras of everything required, no?

Steve

Kill slow play. Allow walking. Reduce ineffective golf instruction. Use environmentally friendly course maintenance.

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Posted

Can I remove the head w/o a propane torch?

There are alternative methods, heat guns are a slower heating process. (also difficult to concentrate the heat where required)

I have used a stove, both gas an electric.

The key is to rotate the club so the heat does not concentrate in one spot of the hosel.

A cigar "torch lighter" could also be used.

If really in a pinch, a candle would probably work.

Propane torches are the choice of most.

Club Rat

  • Upvote 1

Johnny Rocket - Let's Rock and Roll and play some golf !!!

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Posted
Steel shafts?

~Justin

R11 9.5* w/Matrix Ozik Code 6.2
Taylormade 14* V-Steel w/ProLaunch Blue
Taylormade 16.5* V-Steel w/Aldila NV
Taylormade 21* V-Steel w/Dyanlite Gold S300
Mizuno MX 23 5-6 w/Rifel 5.5 SSx2
Mizuno MP 32 7-PW w/Rifel 5.5 SSx2
Callaway X-Forged 52*, 56*, 60*
Mizuno 0803 Custom Slighter


  • Moderator
Posted
Steel shafts?

Yes, although I'll eventually want to do my driver/wood/hybrid if I'm successful with the steel.

Steve

Kill slow play. Allow walking. Reduce ineffective golf instruction. Use environmentally friendly course maintenance.

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Posted
You'll want a shaft puller and heat gun for graphite. Steel, anything that gets it got enough for the epoxy to break down will work.
  • Upvote 1

~Justin

R11 9.5* w/Matrix Ozik Code 6.2
Taylormade 14* V-Steel w/ProLaunch Blue
Taylormade 16.5* V-Steel w/Aldila NV
Taylormade 21* V-Steel w/Dyanlite Gold S300
Mizuno MX 23 5-6 w/Rifel 5.5 SSx2
Mizuno MP 32 7-PW w/Rifel 5.5 SSx2
Callaway X-Forged 52*, 56*, 60*
Mizuno 0803 Custom Slighter


Posted

You'll want a shaft puller and heat gun for graphite. Steel, anything that gets it got enough for the epoxy to break down will work.

Heat guns work well for this.

I do second the notion of wanting a shaft puller for graphite. The torch is fine if you're very careful (can't overheat it or you'll melt the graphite and ruin it), but the shaft puller is definitely a necessity. It pulls the head off immediately when the epoxy breaks down. I've reshafted my hybrids and woods without this, and it's a real pain that will somewhat frequently (50% of the ones I did) destroy the tip of your shaft and require you to drill out the hosel of the club before you can install a new shaft. You can use the old shaft again though, provided you don't mind tipping it ~.75" first.

  • Upvote 1
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  • Moderator
Posted

Thanks all. I'm looking at this shaft.

http://www.golfsmith.com/product/30101457/true-temper-xp95-355-steel-iron-shaft

What do you do if you want to cut the shaft to a specific measurement? So my 6I is 37.25" according to specs. There's only 37.5" listed by Golfsmith. So is that "0.25" the bit that goes inside the clubhead?

Is this a decent shaft cutter?

http://www.golfsmith.com/product/30040140/golfsmith-hand-held-shaft-cutter

Is this what you mean by a shaft puller?

http://www.golfsmith.com/product/30025511/golfsmith-economy-shaft-extractor

Steve

Kill slow play. Allow walking. Reduce ineffective golf instruction. Use environmentally friendly course maintenance.

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Posted

Hey @nevets88 Golfsmith has a "resources" section under the "club making " section, check out the articles and guides area.

The cutter should work fine for steel shafts, dremel tool for graphite. I'm sure you'll find experienced clubfitters on TST, I'm not, so....

I'd like to hear about the whole process, please keep posting on your experience.

Thanks Brian

  • Upvote 1

Brian   

 

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Posted

Since you are a novice at this, see if you can find a demo 6i that's the same model as your iron set. Practice pulling the shaft and reshafting on the demo 6i before you do your actual set.

  • Upvote 1

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  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
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Posted
Cut from the butt end (where the grip goes) after the shaft is installed. Leave 1/8" for the grip for your desired length.
  • Upvote 1

~Justin

R11 9.5* w/Matrix Ozik Code 6.2
Taylormade 14* V-Steel w/ProLaunch Blue
Taylormade 16.5* V-Steel w/Aldila NV
Taylormade 21* V-Steel w/Dyanlite Gold S300
Mizuno MX 23 5-6 w/Rifel 5.5 SSx2
Mizuno MP 32 7-PW w/Rifel 5.5 SSx2
Callaway X-Forged 52*, 56*, 60*
Mizuno 0803 Custom Slighter


Posted

What do you do if you want to cut the shaft to a specific measurement? So my 6I is 37.25" according to specs. There's only 37.5" listed by Golfsmith. So is that "0.25" the bit that goes inside the clubhead?

Is this a decent shaft cutter?

Is this what you mean by a shaft puller?

All shafts can be cut with a "Dremel" tool.

I would not use a "pipe cutter" as per the item mentioned on steel shafts.

Once the shaft is cut, you will need to use "emery cloth" on the tip to clean the shaft end. (both graphite or steel)

Shaft puller's are for professionals to make the job easier and quicker.

I have always just used a leather glove and twisted the club heads off of the shafts.

Really, the only trick is not to overheat the club head when pulling heads from graphite shafts, they will melt !!!

Steel shafts are very easy to work with ......... No dangers !!!!!!!!!!  No problems !!!!!!!!!!!

If you have an old club, practice with them.

A tip on re-gluing.......  Only mix a small amount of epoxy and only do 3 or 4 clubs at a time.

30 minute epoxy works fine, 5 minute epoxy sets up really quick and should only be used for 1 or 2 clubs.

Club Rat

  • Upvote 1

Johnny Rocket - Let's Rock and Roll and play some golf !!!

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