New driver advice needed

[SuperSyds]

Hi,

I am currently using a 15 degree Nike VR Pro hybrid off the tees and when I am swinging well I am getting 230-265 yards depending on the hole/wind. My next option off the tee is a 4 iron which I can get 205-225 out of it.

I usually play with 2 guys off 16 handicaps and I can keep up with their drivers on certain holes but always feel like a little boy with my small 15 degree hybrid compared to their drivers. I feel it is now time to step up as my swing is more consistent and I am now shooting below 90 more frequently.

So my questions is should I get a driver or work my way up and get a 3 wood to start? If driver, what drivers should I look towards, my initial thought was the Ping G25 for consistency and price has now lowered since the arrival of the G30.

Any ideas/comments welcome,

Thanks

Anton

[saevel25]

Hi,

I am currently using a 15 degree Nike VR Pro hybrid off the tees and when I am swinging well I am getting 230-265 yards depending on the hole/wind. My next option off the tee is a 4 iron which I can get 205-225 out of it.

I usually play with 2 guys off 16 handicaps and I can keep up with their drivers on certain holes but always feel like a little boy with my small 15 degree hybrid compared to their drivers. I feel it is now time to step up as my swing is more consistent and I am now shooting below 90 more frequently.

So my questions is should I get a driver or work my way up and get a 3 wood to start? If driver, what drivers should I look towards, my initial thought was the Ping G25 for consistency and price has now lowered since the arrival of the G30.

Any ideas/comments welcome,

Thanks

Anton

Go with a driver. I would keep the overall length of the driver less than 45". Just helps with consistency. Still, drivers have higher MOI and are more forgiving than fairway woods.

[dbuck]

One possibility is the TM SLDR mini available with higher lofts and a 43.5 shaft. It has a smaller head as well. If I was looking, especially for an "intermediate step",  a 12* with 43.5 would be on my radar. I would probably even consider it for a main driver.

As Saevel said, even if you go with the larger drivers, keeping the shaft under 45 enhances control.

[SuperSyds]

That mini might be a good option ill have a look around for shorter lengths, thanks for the comment

[DrvFrShow]

I played a year back in 70-71. I could never hit those damned drivers back then and would always use a 3 wood off the tee or even a 2 iron. It got me out onto the fairway.

Then two years ago I took up the game again, and these huge drivers had me scared. I teed off with my 3 wood in the new set. Worked well, too. Then I finally got fit for one of the new drivers and the numbers on the screen and shot pattern didn't lie. The Callaway Big Bertha gave me the best numbers. I'm hitting the 10.5 degree in the R shaft. I really like it. My drives average 230 yds. I tried out something like seven drivers including the new Bertha V series - the distance was there, but I had better control with the 2014 model.

I do have a tendency to push my drives. What ended up happening is that I wrapped electrical tape about an inch down on the butt end of the club to see if it helped at all, and it did. It almost eliminated pushing the drives. So I had the shaft butt cut from 45.5" to 44.5", and that solved the problem.

The Fubuki Z 50 shaft that is in them according to Mitsubishi, if your driver speed is 92 - 105 the Z 50 in Stiff should do the trick. >106 the Z 60.

You should give the Big Bertha a try, too. It's in the same price range as the SLDR.

[joekelly]

I checked out the Mitsubishi shafts, online only.  See the Z 50 series weighs at 56, 58 gms, the Z 60 series 62 to 66 grms, and Z 70 series 75 and 77 grms.  So we can notice that, if DrvFrShow is correct, the lighter the shaft and slower the swing speed.

Wouldn't you think that faster swing speeds go with lighter weights, overall,  since usually the heavier the object the slower the possible swing speed?     In these shafts the variance between 56 and 77 grms so would 20 grms make any difference?

[bste]

In these shafts the variance between 56 and 77 grms so would 20 grms make any difference?

On the heavier shaft the torque is less and the butt is larger to compensate for the faster swing speed, so you may get more speed out of a lighter shaft but you may lose accuracy. It could feel whippy.

Brian

[GIANTSFAN]

I have always had good luck and great drives with the cobra drivers. I started with a 12 and loved it then went to a 10.5 which is consistent for me at like 240-280 yd . Check the golf shows And last years models for demos and better pricing don't start off high end right away and spend too much money. You might find what you want by trying your friends drivers on the course that's always better conditions to sample clubs on the course. If you can really swing a club then you wang a stiff shaft or just regular you can't go wrong

[Mr. Desmond]

I checked out the Mitsubishi shafts, online only.  See the Z 50 series weighs at 56, 58 gms, the Z 60 series 62 to 66 grms, and Z 70 series 75 and 77 grms.  So we can notice that, if DrvFrShow is correct, the lighter the shaft and slower the swing speed.

Wouldn't you think that faster swing speeds go with lighter weights, overall,  since usually the heavier the object the slower the possible swing speed?     In these shafts the variance between 56 and 77 grms so would 20 grms make any difference?

From experience, slower swing speeds go for the lighter shafts to enable them to swing with more speed.

As to shafts within a family, with stronger flex and heavier weight, one typically receives a shaft with less torque and higher kickpoint than the lighter weight shaft.

Within a family of shafts, I think you would see considerable difference between a 50+g and a 70+ gram shaft, also depending on the balance of the shaft -- counterbalanced? or normal balance.

A shaft with a lower torque will tend to feel stiffer and has a player for whom it does not fit, attempting to swing out of his shoes to loosen it up ... that will contribute to wide dispersion and  inconsistency.

Typically, players with faster speeds will go to a heavier weight and/or less torque to gain consistency -- but it is all a balance.

The above is a general explanation based on my experience of trying too many clubs and shafts for 20 years.

[DrvFrShow]

I'll second the Cobra driver vote. I had an Amp Cell and loved it. Their BioCell driver is very nice.