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Posted
Gee, that sounds bad, "I need help with my shaft"

Seriously, i am looking at getting a pre-owned Callaway Fusion driver and there are two separate shafts, a Graph Design YS6 and a Aldila NV 65.

I haven't bought clubs in ages, so I haven't really kept up on these things. What's the word?

Great forum, BTW.

Posted
I've never used a YS6 shaft, but I have the Aldila NV in my Big Bertha. It is real stiff and has a higher kick point than the standard Callaway shaft and produces a slightly lower trajectory. If you have ample swing speed and are more interested in control, go with the Aldila. I don't hit it any farther than a regular flex driver, but can control it much better.
In the bag:

Callaway Big Bertha 454 9* w/ Aldila NV 65-S shaft
Callaway Big Bertha 3-Wood
Titleist DCI 981 irons Cleveland 588 60* and 64* wedgesOdyssey White Hot #5 center shafted putterBridgestone B330/Callaway HX Tour balls

Posted
I have a pretty high swing speed, control is the issue. With my TI Bubble If I don't hit it close to perfect the results are not so good. I am looking for a biggeer sweet spot, basically, and I have tried the Callaway and like it a lot.


Thanks.

Posted
The Aldilla shafts are very good. the low torque rating helps with control a lot I have a good Nike off the shelf driver, and a KZG with an aldilla shaft.. the feel when striking the ball is similar but the KZG hits much straighter on an off center hit..
The pro where I got the KZG said the average torque rating on an OEM graphite driver it about 4, and my Aldilla is 2.4. He said this difference alone means the ball will go 15 yards less off center on a one inch off center hit regardless of the head.
I had the same shaft put in my Nike 3 wood because I was hitting my KZG driver more accurate then the 3 wood, since I hit my 3 wood as straight as my 3 or 4 iirons.

Posted
It sounds like you might be more of a "hitter" than a "swinger," meaning you take a pretty hard cut at the ball. I think the NV suits that action better than the YS-6. Both shafts can handle plenty of swing speed, but they load/unload differently. The NV responds well to a hard swing, and has less torque, while the YS-6 is better for a smooth swinger (think Ernie Els/Fred Couples).

I don't really think there's a huge difference between the shafts distance-wise. But I think getting the one that best matches your game will help with the dispersion. If I were you, I'd try the NV. I've hit it in Callaway drivers (Fusion, 454) and it is a good match. I've never hit the YS-6 in a Callaway, so I can't speak to that combo.

Either way, good luck! The Fusion got a bad rap initially, but it is one of the most forgiving drivers I've ever hit, and it is plenty long.

in the bag today:
Driver: TaylorMade R9 10.5° (Fujikura Motore 65 stiff)
3-wood: Tour Edge Exotics XCG (Aldila DVS Fairway 75 stiff)
hybrid: Sonartec Md 21° (UST Proforce V2 Hybrid 85 stiff)
4-PW: Titleist 755 (Titleist TriSpec Regular)Wedges: Titleist Vokey Design 252.08 bent to 50.5° (Oil...

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Posted
I went with the Adila. I've been trying to refine my swing to be more of a swinger, and since I made some small changes I haven't been hitting the Bubble as well. I have been focusing on my hand positions, and I haven't been squaring the club very well, and the 7.5 is very unforgiving, plus it is old so the sweet spot is much smaller than newer clubs.

Thanks for your help!

Posted
I have a lot of sucess with grafaoloy! Try them
Ace Adair


904R 10*
I3 4 Wood 17* G5 Hybrid 22* CG-4's 4-PW Vokey Design 200 Series-- 50*, 54*, 58* G2 Anser Putter 35" ProV1 Hoofer 3 Bag "Putts get real difficult the day they hand out the money." -Lee Trevino "You are one evil, cunning woman. It's a massive turn on."--House...

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
This is more for the sake of discussion than anything, but I'm wondering if my regular-flex shafts have instantly become obsolete with my new swing. I'll need to get in to check my swing speed by I feel like I'm spraying the ball with this higher swing speed. My pro redirected my swing path and it has brought my swingspeed up a lot. I tested this out by using a friends stiff-flex shaft and I seemed to control it better.

I'm playing the 905T 10.5 with a Graffaloy Blue R-Flex. Do I need to:
A) keep practicing, my equipment is just fine
B) keep practicing and look for a stiffer flex shaft
C) seek mental help, cause you got issues

Peace

Jeff

10.5° Callaway FT-iZ Tour

18°, 20°, 23° Adams Idea Pro Prototype Hybrid

4-9 Titleist 690.CB
48° Titleist Vokey Tour Nickel
54°, 58° Titleist Vokey Tour Oil Can

Scotty Cameron NP2, 33"

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Posted
I have a fairly high swing speed, or so ive been told. I would say your equipment is ok, but it would probably be wise to look for a good quality stiff shaft. So I guess im going with "B".

In the Bag:

Wilson Fat Boy Driver
Callaway Steelhead 3 & 5 Wood (Steel Shaft)
3 & 5-SW Callaway X-1452 degree WedgeAdams Golf 60 Degree WedgePing B60 PutterOther Optional Clubs:Callaway Steelhead 1 WoodCleveland 60 degree wedgeAdams Golf 56 Degree WedgesWilson Blackjack PutterBall: ...


  • Administrator
Posted
A stiff shaft is always going to offer more control. Always. But the whippier the shaft, the more distance you get.

It's a matter of finding the right balance. The spot at which you get as much distance with a good amount of control.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Hi, I'm looking to buy a new set. Currently I'm using callaway x-14 graphite senior flex. I'm beginning to think it's too weak and my shots are inaccurate.

I'm not sure what to get.. steel shaft vs graphite. My driver swing speed is 88, and my 5 iron is around 78 mph. I think I need a REGULAR instead of firm... what would you recommend steel vs graphite??

I'm currently looking at cleveland CG4.... anyone experienced this club?? Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.
  • Administrator
Posted
The rule of thumb with graphite shafts in irons has always been this:

Graphite gives you greater distance, typically a higher ball-flight, but a less accurate (left and right) shot pattern.
Steel produces a tigher shot pattern, a lower ball flight, and a tad less distance.

The distance is largely due to the weight of the club, overall. Graphite shafts weigh a bit less than steel. Advances in graphite shafts lately have really tightened up the shot patterns off of graphite-shafted irons, too.

I say regular is about right. Graphite versus steel? Try a launch monitor and see what it tells you. If you don't like how they feel in steel, go for graphite.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

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    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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