retexan599

Recently bought a Sun Mountain C-130 cart bag and really like it. Lots of room for golfer stuff. 15 full length dividers. Feels quite sturdy. Not cheap, but I think it will be worth it.

I am now 76 and have been using drivers from Pinemeadow Golf for some years. Right now I am using the model shown here: http://www.pinemeadowgolf.com/golf-clubs/woods/zr1.mark2.driver . I get it in senior flex and with my preferred grip. It is working well for me and was only about $100.

I recently converted my driver, 3W, 5W, and 7W from regular flex to senior flex. In all cases I am getting substantially longer distance and better accuracy. Now that I am age 76 and my swing speed is (probably) on the low end, this has made a difference for me. I don't what it would do for someone with a higher swing speed. Just FYI....

When I stopped using multiple balls from the refurbished bags, I got more consistent; it took one variable out of the equation and I can concentrate on other factors without wondering about the ball. Right now I have been playing the Bridgestone E6 for some time and like them a lot.

I have only recently become aware of the effect of shaft flex in my clubs, mainly due to posts in this and other forums. I am a 76 yr old senior, but have played with 'regular' flex graphite shafts for years. Recently I had purchased a 9.5* driver to compare to my 10.5* and, on a whim, ordered the 'A' (senior) flex. My drives are now averaging 15-20 yards longer. Truthfully I don't know if it is the loft or the flex, but I have a feeling it is the flex. I am going to get a 10.5* with the 'A' flex to see whether it is the flex or not. Now I am beginning to question my fairway woods and irons which are all 'regular' flex except for the 3W which is 'firm'. Never stop learning....

I use a quick shorthand. The 2nd line of the scorecard is GIR, and whether it missed L, R, Lg, or S. The 3rd line is number of putts and whether missed L, R, S. The 3rd line is fairway hit, with a check mark if in the fairway, or ML, MR if missed. Starting on the 4th line, I note the clubs I used with a + or - or blank in front of it. And if it was a great shot, draw a triangle around the club, if a bad shot the triangle is upside down. Or, if I pushed the drive, it will say "-D psh". Or "6I pll" if I pulled the 6I. Then when I do my 'at home' recap of the round, I can see which club(s) I hit and how it went. I can scan across the card and see how many + or - or triangles rightside up or upside down. Gives me a way to quickly encapsulate the round. I also use the Golfshot GPS app on my iPad, so I can see the distances I hit and cross check my written card. Yep, I am an engineer and stats are ingrained.

What I usually do at the driving range is to get a sense of the effect of changing a factor in my swing. Example: maybe I want to understand better the effect of tee height on my drives. So I will hit a few drives with the tee quite high, then at a medium height, then quite low. This gives me a feel for the difference(s) of varying tee height. May also do that with how far or close I am standing to the ball; what happens if I set up markedly further away, or then if I am markedly much closer. Then I can see what effect the different positions have on my result. Etc. I almost never go to the range to just hit balls, but mainly to test out the effect of swing variables. An exception is after I have had a long layoff: just go hit some balls to get my body to remember what it is supposed to be doing.

It helped my consistency when I stopped using the grab bag of used balls and centered on one ball. Occasionally I change ball brands, but only deliberately and use the same brand/type for a period of time. As an engineer, I think of it as 'taking one variable out of the equation'. Agree with those above who say choose something reasonably priced. For a couple of years I used a $1 golf ball, now I use a $2 golf ball, as my index has gradually improved into the 14-16 range. When I get below 10, I will no doubt move to a $3 golf ball. Hope springs eternal.....

My brother and I were there for a practice round in 2004. We walked the course backwards, from #18 to #1. This way we encountered almost every golfer who was practicing that day. It is a poignant memory because he passed away a couple of years later, but we talked about it up to the day he died. I still wear the Masters logo pullover I bought that morning for cool weather golf days. If there is golf in heaven, the course should be a copy of Augusta National.

I use impact stickers from longshotgolf. The good thing about them is that I can peel them off the club face after practice and onto a piece of paper to take home and refer to later, with notes I add to explain what I was trying at the time. Like this: You can get the impact stickers at: http://www.longshotgolf.com/productdetailsheet.aspx?CategoryID=5&ProductID;=3380 I got my first stickers at golfsmith in an introductory package.

Sorry you (and I) have this problem. I use the same reverse overlap for all clubs including my putter. All the right hand fingers are on the club. The forefinger of my left hand sits snugly between the third and fourth finger of my right hand. No interlocking, as knuckles are way too enlarged to fit together. I found the oversized grips to be essential as I too cannot make a closed fist with either hand and the regular grips required too much closure/pressue. Couple of other things: I switched to graphite shafts some years back to lessen the shock to my hands when striking the ball. I do not try to take a divot as that would also cause shock. The only clubs with steel shafts are my sand wedge and putter. At about hole #5, I take one tylenol for discomfort plus one ibuprofen to reduce swelling. I allow at least one day, usually two days between rounds to let my hands calm down. Some years back (15+) I had some treatments where the doctor deliberately minipulated my fingers (under anesthesia) to move the joints beyond their normal range of motion, in order to try to provide more range. This was followed by hot wax treatments (which really felt good). This definitely helped for a few years. I have thought about repeating the treatment, but decided to just live with it. I have x-rays taken at the time in which the knuckles are a white splash, indicating no cartilage left, just bone. Rather ugly looking x-ray. A doctor once told me that I was probably lucky, because osteoarthritis usually only attacks one part of the body and I 'drew the hand card', meaning that I was unlikely to get osteo elsewhere. Hope any of this helps. I do get to play golf probably twice a week, usually feeling like I have found a reasonable solution to that issue.

I have arthritis in several fingers of both hands and went to oversized grips about 4 years ago. Mine are Winn Master Wrap Excel RF Oversize +1/8” Weather Black. These are very soft and feel good. I also use a reverse overlap grip to accommodate the fingers, and gloves on both hands. Once you get calibrated to all that, they work very well for me.

My fairway woods are all the original Adams Tight Lies, Air Assault clubs. I do use an 11 wood, and the loft is 32 degrees. At least that is what is engraved on the sole plate: T 32* S. My 9 wood is 28*, the 7 wood is 24*, the 5 wood is 19*, and the 3wood is 13*. My longest iron is my 6I.

Sounds like BS to me....

I use the GolfShot app on my iPad. Keeps lots of stats, including yardage of your shot if you ask it to. Then it emails me a copy of the scorecard. It also keeps your stats online. Cost is about $30/yr.

I have a one page summary of reminders that I scan when stopped at traffic lights on the way to the course. These are simply to refresh my mind about what I already know and to purge myself of non-golf thoughts or worries. Key thoughts (usually recent learnings) are highlighted in color. There are short lists for each club in my bag. My normal reaction is "Oh yeah, I remember now...." The page gets updated after any practice sessions where I have learned something, and stuff I have ingrained is deleted to make room. Only one page and it helps me 'kick-off' the round.

May not be a popular choice, but when I hit age 70 I graduated to the senior tee box (forward men's tees). Enjoying the game a lot more since I did that, now 75.

I would like to see a list or table of stock putter head weights for various manufacturers' products, types, etc. I have searched SandTrap and the web and have not found one. Not thinking of the 'swingweight' per se, just the raw dead weight of the putter head without the shaft. I had thought this would be easy to find, but so far I can only see a head weight for a specific putter model for a given manufacturer. Anyone know where there is a kind of 'master list' of head weights? I am trying to simplify my search for a new putter. Thanks.

Ran across this thread in December. Moving the right foot back (behind) a couple of inches has helped me hit my fairway 3W markedly straighter than with the toes in line. I have not had the same success with the driver, at least not yet. I have been working on other aspects of the driver swing and the foot behind technique may yet be of value. But it has been dramatic with my fairway 3W. On that case alone I thank the posters in this thread (especially posting the Hogan foot chart). Thanks!

For my arthritis, i do these things: - wear gloves on both hands - graphite shafts - ovesized Winn grips - at hole #6, one ibuprofen + one acetaminophen - wait two days between rounds

I wear trifocals in both my regular glasses and sun glasses. The sun glasses are an older prescription and it turns out that the trifocal lens is just right to focus clearly on the ball at address. The reason I like it is that it helps me keep focussed on the ball during my backswing; if I allow my head to turn too much, the ball slips out of the trifocal area. I have trained myself to keep the ball in focus through the trifocal lense and it helps me keep my head more still than otherwise. May be kind of quirky, but it works for me. And the bifocal lense lets me read the scorecard as the poster above does.

I take several measures to combat the arthritis in my hands: - wear gloves on both hands - lessens the shock. - use Winn Jumbo tour grips; my hands won't close well enough on a mid-size grip. - graphite shafts to absorb vibration. - reverse overlap grip; finger joints too thick to interlock. Hope this helps...

Just for accuracy -- beta blockers are a legitmate part of treatment for heart disease. I take a beta blocker prescribed by my cardiologist to manage my heart rate and blood pressure. The beta blockers are very powerful medications and they have had to make dosage adjustments and different formulas over the years. I also take other meds for my heart issues, and it all has to be kept in a close balance and with monitoring. Too much beta blocker or too little can be a problem, depending on the given situation. Just my two cents....

I do play up to an 11 metal wood. All my woods are the original Adams Tight Lies. I have them for 3, 5, 7, 9, & 11 woods. The longest iron I play is a 6I. The height of the faces on these tight lies clubs is fairly small; they 'feel' like hybrids. All my clubs have graphite shafts. Have not looked into 13+ woods, as my 6I is good for me. At my age of 75, they work for me.