Jump to content

Adam C

Established Member
  • Content Count

    234
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Adam C

  1. You can still find those shafts around, although I would guess you were hitting the TaylorMade TP version of the shaft. I know they made an A,B, and C versions. I found the B version 50gm R flex on Diamond Tour Golf website. A and B were similar except the B is counterbalanced. C was a different animal all together. If you can't find the A, the B should work, just be aware that the swing weight might drop if you don't extend the playing length or add some head weight. Honestly I believe the most important aspect of a shaft is the weight, so if you can't find the exact one you want, start looking at others with similar weights first, then move on to other specs.
  2. At that launch angle and speed, I don't think that spin number is going to hurt you. If your launch was higher maybe but at 10.7 you usually need more spin.
  3. Like F2YGolf said, you can't really see the taper unless you hold a .355 next to a .370 and look at the very tip. It's just something you have to measure or you just know like here, Mizuno alway use .355 taper. What you're referring to is the stepping on the shaft. Basically how the shaft maker reduces the diameter from the butt to the tip. Each shaft will have slightly different step patterns (the spacing, the number of steps) and some shafts will have no steps (like a Project X shaft). This helps determine how the shaft bends and feels.
  4. I have not ever hit one, and I know they did not sell well, but Matrix made many great high end shafts that just usually flew under the radar, probably why they closed shop. If it works for you keep it, it's a quality shaft as good as any of the $300 aftermarkets out today.
  5. That's an aftermarket Matrix shaft. 85 is actually not the weight. That is the flex designation on these shafts. I think these shafts sold pretty poorly, and that numbering system probably didn't help. 85 is basically the swing speed recommendation for that shaft. They go from 75 up to 115 which equals light up to XX flex. So 85 would be the R flex. They do come in different weights and that number should be printed somewhere on the main graphics section in a small font.
  6. Golf is at least 90% player ability. At best, 10% club influence.
  7. Are you sure they didn't say soft step? That would make more sense to me at least. What the seller told you was right, the shafts have not been tipped b/c they are taper tip meaning you can not tip (aka cut) them. Soft stepping refers to taking the shaft that is pre designed to fit into say the 6 iron, and instead install it in the 7 iron, and so on through the set. This gives you slightly softer and higher launch compared to the standard install. I would try them and see what you think of the shafts. Everything they told you is more or less correct. I don't like when shaft companies try to say they have high launch/low spin shafts. Spin and launch go hand in hand, if you have higher launch, you will have higher spin. That's just how golf balls work. You could always pull the shafts and soft step them after, would just have to butt trim them down after to get the length back to where you want it. Would only do that however if you felt you wanted a bit more height. No problem. I appreciate the vote of confidence.
  8. You have an 85 gram shaft in your driver? What shaft is in it? I will go ahead and say not knowing anything about your game or swing, that is way to heavy. I could only think of a couple PGA pros using a shaft that heavy. Don't know if you need/want to go down to 55g but definitely 65g at least would benefit you based on your distances you mentioned.
  9. Could try something a bit stiffer (R flex) and heavier and see if that straightens anything out, though a pull is usually still going to exist regardless of equipment changes. But never know until you try.
  10. The uniflex Callaway shaft was basically a TT Lite. True Temper 115-118 gram, mid to high launch. I would be looking at shafts that are mid-high launch R flex. Weight wise probably figure 60g driver, 70g 3 wood, 85g hybrids give or take. Are you looking at re-shafting your current woods and hybrids, or buying new? Most of the stock shaft offerings for new clubs will fall pretty close to these basic specs if you pick out the right weight. If you are re-shafting, I can try and focus you on some options but would need to know some basic fitting info. Club speed, typical miss, ball flight, price point.
  11. Simple issue, difficult fix. You lose your leg to spine angle in your downswing. You can see it very simply in the video if you put your cursor arrow right on your butt at the far left edge. Run the video with the cursor there and watch what happens going into impact and after. All of a sudden there is a large space between the cursor and your butt or left hip if you move all the way to the finish. Compare that to any PGA pro down the line swing video and you will see they never move their butt off that initial spot and finish with the left hip covering that same spot. They keep that spine angle through the entire movement and that is so important for consistency. Practice leaning with your butt just up against the back of a chair, or stool, or your golf bag if you have a stand bag and work on swinging and hitting shots while making continuous contact with that surface. Don't let the hips thrust towards the ball. Or practice without a club with your butt against a wall, and make half practice swings again keeping contact with the wall. Keep taking video, so you can monitor progress. It's a good looking swing, get this fixed and look out.
  12. You have two issues that I would address, one lower body and one upper body. I would really focus on your knees first. Right now you can see your left knee move forward while your back knee straightens and basically locks at the start of your swing. Your weight moves forward at the start of your swing and ends up moving backwards through your downswing aka reverse pivot. I would focus on taking that initial knee bend you have in your set up, and work on keeping that same knee flex through the entire swing. Never lock your knees. From there, you should be able to hopefully move your weight back a little at the start and forward on the downswing. The upper body issue I see isn't a chicken wing, it's a very early release, some would call a cast. The club head has moved past your hands a good 10 inches behind the ball. This will lead to all kinds of fat and thin shots, high ball flight, and a big loss of distance. I would start with working on your chipping. I would be willing to bet that this issue is also present in your chipping movement. Really try practicing hitting your chips where the club head never passes the hands. Keep that left wrist firm and don't let it break down. Once you can do that, try and do the same with a longer pitching movement. Just half swing, but again keep your hands in front of the club head through the entire swing. Only do this up to a half swing. After that, hopefully the feel will stay with you into your fuller swings. Anything longer than a half swing will require letting the club head eventually move in front of the hands, so you don't hurt yourself, but if you focus on leading with the hands through impact on the shorter swings, it should make the longer swings easier to apply the same idea to.
  13. Those TA3s were sweet. However, 1. They are not forgiving, move forgiving then the TA1s, but still need to bring a swing to use them. 2. They are almost 20 years old now, so I wouldn't pay more than $50 for the set with new grips. If you are looking for Cleveland, would want to find a set of TA5s or TA7s for more forgiveness. But there are plenty of forgiving irons out there that are newer, more forgiving, and still relatively cheap.
  14. It's hard to fix. I know because I fight it also with my longer clubs but it makes a huge difference in my consistency when that angle is maintained.
  15. You're losing your angle between your upper leg and your lower spine. Your hips are moving in towards the ball through the impact zone which does two bad things. Changes your spine angle and basically forces you to change your swing path to the left of target. Result, slice, or high slice, or straight pull, or pull hook, all depending on how you get your hands to the ball at impact. Second it closes any space you had for your hands to move past your hips. This can quickly result in flippy hand motion which is very hard to time correctly. Work on maintaining that posture at set up through impact. Hit some balls leaning back against your golf bag if it has a stand, or a chair back, or even just practice swing without a club with your back side against a wall. Keep your butt in contact with that surface, whatever it is. On the through swing the contact point will move from your butt to your left hip as you turn through, but again alway keep contact. Fix that and you will be way more consistent.
  16. That's her. I changed the grip. I know, I know, to a Lamkin Crossline. Simple lines are always best in my book. Less distractions the better.
  17. Agree. Getting the ball up in the air and flying the right distance is what most higher handicappers would be happy with. More bounce and a fuller sole.
  18. I am not talking about curve. I am talking about just hitting the ball in the center of the face which is a problem for higher handicappers, which is what the OP is. I realize that I am making assumptions about his particular wedge game but having worked in the business for years I always lean to the more forgiving side of the coin. Look, I'm not talking about Alien wedges or some crazy super wide soles here. OP listed what he was looking at. Vokey, Callaway, Cleveland CG4, all very traditional wedge designs. I am saying with those wedges, a lot of sole grinding, heel and toe relief etc, is not likely to help a higher handicapper versus the basic more full sole design. Again talking high handicappers here, not pros and 3.6s.
  19. The grind will make a club less forgiving from a pure cg/moi standpoint. You are removing material (aka weight) from around the perimeter, low on the club or from the back of the sole. From that you are essentially shrinking the sweet spot and raising the cg and moving it forward. None of these things make a club easier to hit. That being said, better golfers can handle those changes and benefit from, as you mentioned, the versatility to manipulate the face or hit from uneven lies. However, for golfers who struggle with solid contact around the green, I think the larger sole with it's forgiving nature, outweighs the lack of versatility from those features.
  20. If you have 22 degrees of bounce then yes, the grind can play a major role. However, as most wedges max out at 16 degrees, and that's on the mid lofts, it's more fine tuning. And you have to remember that any time you grind down a wedge, you are removing material from the sole and making it less forgiving. This can be fine and even beneficial for some golfers, but it can be a total disaster for others. If you have issues with consistency in your chipping and sand game, I say more bounce and wide sole for most amateurs.
  21. Bounce is something you have to figure out based on how you swing the club, what type of courses you play, and what kinds of shots you plan on hitting. High bounce- better for steeper swings aka big deep divots. More bounce is also helpful out of most sand and thicker rough. Low bounce- better for shallow swings aka little thin divots. Can be better off tight lies and hard pan. Grind is less of an issue unless you plan on opening or manipulating the face for shots around the green. Basically just removing material from the sole to allow for better turf interaction. Good news for loft is you can always adjust the loft after the fact to fill your gaps accordingly. At least with the brands you mentioned, (although the Cleveland stuff can be a bit stubborn to move). Also not a bad idea to check your lie angle with them and make sure that is where it should be.
  22. Take some masking tape, foot spray, impact stickers, dry erase marker, etc, and see where on the face you are making contact with these irons. That's a starting point. How far did you hit your previous sticks?
  23. If you spent around $50 for the set I think you did okay more or less.
  24. If your lie is 4 degrees off with 4 degrees of loft, you would be approx 1.8 inches offline at 30 ft.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...