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Adam C

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Everything posted by Adam C

  1. So I did an install and review on the GP Concept Helix grip last week. Just found out that better instructions existed so I felt I owed it a second install and review. Here it is.
  2. I wasn't exactly sure how it worked either while I was doing the review, however since then I think I've figured it out roughly. The knob on the top is twisted which clamps the inside of the butt end of the grip against the inside wall or using the inside wall of the shaft. Then the twisting of the grip just tightens it up like when you keep twisting a rubber band and making it shorter and tighter. This does seem like it will have some big limitations as far as grip patterns and designs since they need to be able to twist around. Also you can't have any grip with alignment on it with
  3. That's what editing is for! The Directors cut of this video is NC17.
  4. Not sure if you have seen these yet, new prototype golf grips from Golf Pride. Just got some and tried them out. Here it is.
  5. You need to remember that the fulcrum for a swing weight scale sits at 14 inches from the butt end of the club. That means that the majority of whatever shaft you are using will be out past the fulcrum. Therefore the shaft weight plays a greater influence on the head side of the club vs. the grip and why a heavier shaft will increase SW more than a lighter one. Of course there are also shaft balance points to take into consideration but for this example I am assuming our hypothetical shafts are the same other than material and weight. Your example above would depend on the weights of
  6. Depending on the OEM, different brands will have either matching lengths in steel and graphite or go with the 1/2 over with graphite. However when they match them for length, the SW is usually 3 or 4 points lighter with graphite. SW can be tricky because it's not just the head weight, it's the relation of the head to the shaft and grip while also factoring in the shaft length and balance point. This means that for every 1/2 change in length, you get a 3 SWP change (longer=heavier). Also for every 9 grams of shaft weight change, you get 1 SWP change (heavier=heavier). Since the average sto
  7. There is no reason you can't just put 1/2 inch extensions in if you are just wanting a bit more length. If you are wanting to refresh the set a bit more then go with the 105s. Don't do the 120s. You like the the 105s, go with the 105s. Fitters trying to change things with shaft specs is unfortunate/a result of what they have to work with/understand. If you really want to change your ball flight in a significant way, then you bend down the lofts a degree or two. That is how you adjust ball flight. Shaft changes will be far less significant and in many cases not permanent as your body will
  8. It's all you. Just having two drivers right now to mess with is bad enough for my game.
  9. Yeah, I had narrowed it down to a few options before settling on the Callaway because I got a good price. M5, M3, Mizuno 190G or 200G were all in the running. I was leaning towards one of those since they have dual weights, giving me more options for tweaking without needing to buy or modify weights.
  10. Thanks. Sounds like we are on the same page with all this. I agree that most of these shafts people use are too stiff and way too heavy. Seems like every time I saw someone trying this it resulted in either high blocks to the right or low left line drives. I think a little extra flex can help with the timing also, which is a big trick when working a 48 inch shaft. It's gotten cold here but I ordered a 8g weight for the Epic Flash. Interested to see what my strike pattern looks like with the 15g vs the 8 vs 0 weight. Like you said, SW goes way up with no adjustments but with the light shaf
  11. I think you need to start by quantifying what you prefer about the R7. Distance, accuracy, feel, look. Like Erik said, year to year you aren't changing much but here we are talking about 10 years of tech, and that is something significant. Drivers today are different and you probably can't really do an apples to apples comparison with them. They are larger (head size compared to the 400cc R7), lighter, and have longer shafts. All those things take getting used to. And I wouldn't assume that the specs on your R7 will translate into a modern driver just because they are so different. Could
  12. This is exactly right. You will need some time (few hundred balls) to get used to the new shafts. One reason I don't love the modern fitting session. Five swings with 5 different shafts doesn't really tell you how you will hit each shaft. It only tells you how your body immediately reacts to a given shaft when coming from something different.
  13. In case anyone was thinking about building a 48 in driver, here is a video on how I went about it. Will also be follow up video where I try and hit it coming soon.
  14. DG will be a lower launching shaft in general and will be constant weight vs. the progressive weighting of the AMT Black. That being said, I would be very surprised if you see much difference in these shafts. Sounds like you are switching heads also, so that will make it even more difficult to determine what differences the shafts are presenting as the heads will impart the largest changes.
  15. Thinking it is real but has been refinished by someone other that Scotty. Looks like they sanded the whole thing down to remove dings which included sanding off the face milling. Can't say for sure that it's not fake. Colors and textures seem slightly slightly off, but again that could just be the refinish.
  16. There are still a lot of M2 drivers being played out there with an almost cult following. The Cobra drivers before the F9, most people will agree were not the best.
  17. Your woods are already longer than standard by design so making them even longer is not usually necessary or recommended. You can check the lie angles of the driver and 3 wood yourself to see if the lie angle is okay. Lie isn't really a huge deal with woods especially driver as it doesn't effect ball flight much. If your grips are bigger however, I would definitely get equally large grips on the woods. Other than that, if you are hitting the driver well and getting good distance in relation to the rest of the bag, I wouldn't bother changing much. If you feel like you are leaving dist
  18. So you can do what you did and add head weight to counter the grip weight. You can find lighter midsize grips, which obviously isn't always a viable option. You can also find shafts with more tip heavy balance points. You could also add a little length to the club to get that weight back. All these options have pros and cons. My personal feeling on SW is that it's mainly about getting a consistent feel through your irons and wedges. I don't care about matching woods, hybrids, putters to an iron SW. Most important for me is a smooth weight progression through the set so each club is gettin
  19. Are you that low launching with all your clubs? Also if you are only getting 268 yards of carry at that speed, contact must be an issue also. I would guess you are making contact very low on the face. Might want to check that first before trying to find a super high loft driver.
  20. You are overthinking it. You are basically going to have such similar shafts by hard stepping the 6.5 or softing the 7.0 (both in flex and more importantly in weight), that if you can hit one, you can hit the other or vise versa. You will get much more definitive results from bending the lofts to adjust trajectory. You would really need to move into a different weight class before I would say you would see any noticeable difference over the long haul between shafts.
  21. Might be an old deflection board. Hard to say from the angle. If you provide a couple more pics from other angles I might have a better/more definitive answer.
  22. If you have a vent hole and a good fit between the shaft and head, you won't need the clamps. Always take a drill and remove the epoxy from inside the shaft, at least enough to see light through it with the grip off. I always poke a hole in the tape through the grip's vent hole just to ensure I don't have a pressure build up if the grips are left on.
  23. Are you installing new shafts when this happens or using used shafts? If they are used, make sure you are drilling out the old epoxy to have a vent hole. If you do this, you shouldn't ever need to clamp anything, unless you live in an earthquake zone or under train tracks.
  24. I will take a picture. I have modified it slightly in that I put a brushed nickel finish on the steel section of the stroke lab shaft. Every other part of that club is matte finished and that bright chrome was distracting in my opinion. I got it like new from Callaway Pre Owned for like $130. I occasionally forget that no matter how much I might want to, I can't use a mallet style head. Would do $90 shipped to FL.
  25. In many cases there is not a huge difference between a starter set and a higher end set of a certain age. The starter set is a simple forgiving design, using less expensive materials and designs. Quality control will be looser than with high end stuff. Graphite shafts will be light and maybe more prone to breaking. Feel/sound will not really come into the equation with the cheaper sets whereas newer sets will have thought about these sorts of details. The starter set is basically a club design from 20 years ago with lower to mid grade materials. Still very useable but not packed wit
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