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blade vs. cavity


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right now i have Mizuno MX 100's and have had them for about a year, what handicap do i need to be at before i should be using blade irons?

right now if i average about 10-12 over through 18, am i losing distance/accuracy by not using blades?

BAG:Nike ExtremeSport 2
DRIVERTaylormade R11
WOODAdamsgolf Insight
IRONSMizuno MX-100's
WEDGEPing 60 & Mizuno MP R Series 56 PUTTERSeemore FGPLOWEST 9:36LOWEST18:74

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right now i have Mizuno MX 100's and have had them for about a year, what handicap do i need to be at before i should be using blade irons?

look at the big thread about blades.

It'll tell you everything you need to know. There is no defined "point" where you use blades. Try them out and see if you like them. Some of the Mizuno blades are pretty easy to hit.

My Clubs
Driver - LV4 10* R flex
Wood - sam snead persimmon 2 wood (for windy days)
Hybrid burner tour launch 20* stiff flex.
Irons - Tour Mode 3i,4i stiffIrons - FP's 5-PW R-flexWedge - spin milled 54.14Wedge - spin milled 60.07Putter - Victoria Lowest round 2010: 79 (par 70)Latest rounds at...

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well im not sure if this is a strength but i hit the ball really high, but it seems like i can never get my distance down, one time it will be 10 yards short, next time it will be 10 yards too far

i dont seem to have too big of an accuracy problem

BAG:Nike ExtremeSport 2
DRIVERTaylormade R11
WOODAdamsgolf Insight
IRONSMizuno MX-100's
WEDGEPing 60 & Mizuno MP R Series 56 PUTTERSeemore FGPLOWEST 9:36LOWEST18:74

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well im not sure if this is a strength but i hit the ball really high, but it seems like i can never get my distance down, one time it will be 10 yards short, next time it will be 10 yards too far

Did you mean that your shots are typically "on line"?

I think that distance control is a pretty big piece of the "accuracy" puzzle.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.

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look at the link in the tour talk
a very few of the top 20 in the world play blades 3-PW...why do you want to?

as mentioned above and on this site
there is no special hcp to start using them, IF you want them

IMO combo sets are the sh*t....
you get the forgiveness of a CB in the long irons and the control and accuracy of a blade in the short irons

i loved mt Nike Pro Forged Combos....miss them a lot
i will see how this new set i have works out this year
"My swing is homemade - but I have perfect flaws!" - Me
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right now i have Mizuno MX 100's and have had them for about a year, what handicap do i need to be at before i should be using blade irons?

I have the Mizuno Mx-900s, and although they are very easy to hit, I find the lack of feedback to be a big negative. I switched to Musclebacks and I have been improving a lot faster. Just like putting (from mallet to a blade - Scotty Cameron Bullseye Blade), I have improved from going from a forgiving putter to a basic non-forgiving putter.

I have just bought a Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 but with the Bullseye, I can putt with anything nowadays.

STR8 Dymo 10.5
Dymo 3W
Mid Rescue 3
MP-33 4-PW
Eidolon 52* GW LW, SW Titleist Bullseye Putter

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I'll second the notion of a combo set. Are you looking for a club that is smaller in profile? Thinner topline? Less offset? If so, you don't necessarily have to hit a blade. There are plenty of cavity back models that have the same profile as a blade but have more forgiviness.

If you're not averse to using a component company, you can probably build yourself a set for the fraction of the cost of an OEM. Companies like Geotech, Snake Eyes, Wishon make what is known as a player's cavity and can be had for as little as $15 a head.

If you don't want to go that route, take a look at Adams. The Pro Gold series is a great club and can be had, new, for less than $400. They are also releasing the new CB1 and CB2 irons. These are a player's cavity and you can create a really nice combo set. The CB2 in the 3I and 4I, the CB1 in the 5I-7I and the Pro Black Blades (if you still want blades) in the 8I-PW.

Titleist 905T Accra SC75 M4 Shaft

Nike SQ 4W Accra T70 M4 Shaft
HB001 17* Hybrid with Mitsubishi Diamana Thump X Stiff Flex
Baffler Pro 20* Accra Axiv 105 Tour Hybrid Shaft

Taylor Made 24* Burner Accra Axiv 105 Tour Hybrid Shaft

Mizuno MP-32 5-PW Black Oxide Finish Project X 6.0 Shafts

Vokey 52* Oil Can Finish TTDG S400 Shaft

Cleveland 588 60* TTDG S400 Shaft

Rife Bimini Blade Putter

 

Ball-White and Round

 

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When you play to scratch from the back tees, you will be able to utilize blades for more than ego stokes. Until then, Cavity Backs. When you think you're too good for CBs get a combo set or player's CBs.

driver: FT-i tlcg 9.5˚ (Matrix Ozik XCONN Stiff)
4 wood: G10 (ProLaunch Red FW stiff)
3 -PW: :Titleist: 695 mb (Rifle flighted 6.0)
wedges:, 52˚, 56˚, 60˚
putter: Studio Select Newport 1.5

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I love my mp33's and play the PW - 5 irons. The feedback is incredible, I played the mp30's previous to the blades and before that the Mizuno, Comp EZ and my first set of clubs were the Ping Eye 2 Becu. After hitting the mp33's everything feels bulky and no feel. The mp33's are suprisely easy to hit. I would venture out and check them out or similar Mizuno blades and see for yourself.

I have played the mp33's for about 4 years and my lowest scores have been -3, -1, -1 and par for 18 holes and I made four birdies in a row during one of the rounds. Everytime I switch clubs, my scores and handicap has improved and maybe it might for you. don't forget the short game.

I think I bought the mp33's when I was a 8 - 12 handicap, I can not remember.

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1

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right now i have Mizuno MX 100's and have had them for about a year, what handicap do i need to be at before i should be using blade irons?

Well, Steve Stricker is about a +7 handicap, and he plays Cavity backs.

The answer, therefore, is that it depends. Blades are good for people who need blades. If you find that your shots go so high, that you rip the ball off the front of the green, then blades may help. To be honest, most people use more club than they can handle. Time after time, I've heard club fitters tell me about how 99% of the people they see use too much club. I compose my own set based on my own and my fitters ideas: I always use a little more forgiveness than I think I need, and a little more shaft flex than I should ideally have. I'll explain why in a minute. I also have my lofts and lies checked, and ask the fitter for input on what I should be playing. He recommended a small cavity like the Mizuno MP series, and a hard S or X flex shaft. I opted for a touch more forgiveness with the combo set, which has a blade in the short irons, and a full cavity in the longest irons. I also use a True Temper GS-95 stiff iron shaft, which is a little soft, but helps because I have arthritis. With this set, when I'm having an "off" day, I still get some forgiveness, yet I get all the feedback and feel of the best blades out there. The fact is, that is a major factor in choosing your set. I keep a touch more flex and a touch more forgiveness because I know I'll have off days. This is why tour pros so often carry cavity back clubs. If I'm having such a day, I can back off, swing easier, and hit a little off center, and still get the shot I need. That's the idea, play what works best on a bad day, but still fits on a good day.
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Note: This thread is 5158 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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