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64* wedge


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Going to be getting some new wedges soon and the ones I want are only available in conforming grooves. I was thinking a good way to combat this would be to simply buy a wedge with more loft. I normally use a 56* and 60* but I was thinking about going 56* and a 64*. I do all of my chipping with my 60* (minus bunker shots) and I'm a guy who likes to land the ball as close to the hole as possible and stop it quick. I think a 64* would do fill this role very nicely. But I have heard of it being a very unpractical club that lacks versatility. Does any here use of have used a 64* wedge? What are you thoughts?

Driver: taylormade.gif R9 Superdeep TP 8.5* - Aldila RIP 70x | 3-Wood: taylormade.gif R9 TP 15* - Diamana Blueboard 83x | Hybrid: taylormade.gif Rescue TP 19* - Motore F3 95x | Irons: taylormade.gif RAC TP MB 3-PW - Dynamic Gold x100 | Wedges: taylormade.gif TP xFT 54.12* and 60.10* - Dynamic Gold s400 | Putter:  ping.gif Karsten Anser - 33"
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I had a 64* wedge in my bag for years, a cheap wedge my dad gave me.  I only ever used it out of the sand, mainly cause I was horrible out of the sand and never practiced.  Ironically, I did all my chipping and pitching with a 56* sand wedge.  Once I took up golf seriously almost 2 years ago I started practicing regularly and my most lofted club became either a 58* or 60*.  A 58* or 60* wedge goes extremely high and stops or backs up when I want it to, so there's no need for me to go with anything higher.  64* wedge, at my skill level anyway, is too one-shot specific.  Great for getting the ball up quickly, but increased margin for error, and I'm still not that comfortable with anything much past a 1/2 swing with a 64* wedge.
Obviously depends on your swing, and a 64* is a handy tool in the right hands, but short game masters have been throwing the ball all the way to the pin with nothing higher than a 55* or 56* wedge for decades.
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i'd stick with your 60. it's got a lot more versatility than a 64 would, regardless of the rule change. as max power said, it's a one shot tool (a 64). if you're comfortable with your 60...and feel like you need that extra loft, why not open the face a tad? being that it's such a high lofted club in the first place you're obviously not looking to hit a 80 yard shot with it...put your stance at a 45* open to the target, open the face to 2 o clock aim left and let it pop...

In my Titleist 2014 9.5" Staff bag:

Cobra Bio+ 9* Matrix White Tie X  - Taylormade SLDR 15* ATTAS 80X - Titleist 910H 19* ATTAS 100X - Taylormade '13 TP MC 4-PW PX 6.5 - Vokey TVD M 50* DG TI X100 - Vokey SM4 55 / Vokey SM5 60* DG TI S400 - Piretti Potenza II 365g

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Originally Posted by Gioguy21

i'd stick with your 60. it's got a lot more versatility than a 64 would, regardless of the rule change. as max power said, it's a one shot tool (a 64). if you're comfortable with your 60...and feel like you need that extra loft, why not open the face a tad? being that it's such a high lofted club in the first place you're obviously not looking to hit a 80 yard shot with it...put your stance at a 45* open to the target, open the face to 2 o clock aim left and let it pop...



I have to agree with this.  I had a 64° wedge 20 years ago - never could see a good reason for it.  I am slightly prejudiced, since I don't even have a 60° in my bag (56° is my shortest wedge), but I just think that anything above 60 is too specialized, unless you have crazy skills like Mickelson.  And the grooves shouldn't be a big deal.  They really only affect full shots from the rough to any significant degree.  Short pitches and chips from the rough don't make use of the grooves anyway, and from the short grass you shouldn't lose any spin with the new grooves.

Rick

"He who has the fastest cart will never have a bad lie."

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If you're looking for versatility, I'd avoid the 64 -- the 56, 60 combo (or something near it) is a good one.

I've never had much success with a 64 (Cally X) -- it goes up, then down, and not always easy to judge unless you practice with it a lot. OTOH, I had an easier time using a 62 (Cally X) -- but I also used a 58 as my versatile wedge.

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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I maintained the 6° difference between my 50° gap wedge and 56° sand wedge by going with a 62° lob wedge.

:tmade: SLDRs 14* driver, 17* fairway, 19* and 22* hybrids | :odyssey: Versa White #1 putter

:nike: XR Pro 24*, 27*, 31*, 35.5*, 40*, 45*, 50* irons | :vokey: SM4 54*, 58* wedges

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Calling a ball that lands close to the hole and hops and stops a chip ..... isn't correct ...... it is a pitch !

There is ZERO margin for error that way ...... it is good or it isn't.

A chip (= short for chip AND run) and it is low and short (max. 50%) through the air and the rest is rolling towards the hole.

But just do it the way you like ..... if you can handle a 60* that good (at 10.6 ..... I doubt it), maybe you are one of the few guys that can handle a 64* aswell.

Cal Razr Hawk 10.5 | TM Superfast 3W | Adams Idea Pro Black 20 | MP-68 3-PW | TW9 50/06 + 58/12 | Ram Zebra Putter

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I play a 52*/58*/64* wedge setup.  I'm not sure why folks are so hesitant to play a 60* or even higher lofted wedge.  It makes sense because, as amateurs, we are going to be left with many more shots from 50 yards and in than a professional.  If you just let the club do the work, a 64* is great.  I put it in play because my home course has greens with very small landing areas, and the extra loft helps me execute shots much easier than even a 60* would.  I believe you do need some clubhead speed to get the most out of a high lob wedge, so try it with a cheap club before buying a new Vokey...

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Originally Posted by jldavis73

I play a 52*/58*/64* wedge setup.  I'm not sure why folks are so hesitant to play a 60* or even higher lofted wedge.  It makes sense because, as amateurs, we are going to be left with many more shots from 50 yards and in than a professional.  If you just let the club do the work, a 64* is great.  I put it in play because my home course has greens with very small landing areas, and the extra loft helps me execute shots much easier than even a 60* would.  I believe you do need some clubhead speed to get the most out of a high lob wedge, so try it with a cheap club before buying a new Vokey...



People are hesitant because 60 and 64 are difficult to hit especially with full swings. You may have success with your 64 but I'd be willing to bet that 8 out of 10 14 handicappers would not be able to hit it. In fact I will be willing to go as far to say that from 50 yards and in more people would have success hitting a controlled 52 or 56 than they would a full 60 or 64.

Driver: i15, 3 wood: G10, Hybrid: Nickent 4dx, Irons: Ping s57, Wedges: Mizuno MPT 52, 56, 60, Putter: XG #9 
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Originally Posted by clubchamp

People are hesitant because 60 and 64 are difficult to hit especially with full swings. You may have success with your 64 but I'd be willing to bet that 8 out of 10 14 handicappers would not be able to hit it. In fact I will be willing to go as far to say that from 50 yards and in more people would have success hitting a controlled 52 or 56 than they would a full 60 or 64.


This is the gospel.  It takes up too much practice time for me to ever get comfortable with anything more than my 56° CG15, and even that is only used when actually necessary.  I use 8I or PW for 95% of my chipping and pitching.  It's how I originally learned the game (I played for more than 10 years with nothing longer than a PW - not even a SW).  I tried to get into the "modern" short game for several years, but I finally realized that it was actually hurting my short game.  My bag is set now, and I'm going to play the entire next season without changing anything and see if the consistency pays off.  It was starting to show good results when last season ended.

Rick

"He who has the fastest cart will never have a bad lie."

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Originally Posted by Gerald

Calling a ball that lands close to the hole and hops and stops a chip ..... isn't correct ...... it is a pitch !

There is ZERO margin for error that way ...... it is good or it isn't.

A chip (= short for chip AND run) and it is low and short (max. 50%) through the air and the rest is rolling towards the hole.

But just do it the way you like ..... if you can handle a 60* that good (at 10.6 ..... I doubt it), maybe you are one of the few guys that can handle a 64* aswell.


I don't know -- Phil Mickelson calls those shots a chip. If you see his video, which is excellent, you'll see what is meant.

Everyone has their own definitions these days -- I heard the new definition of a chip versus a pitch a couple of years ago. If the flight of the ball is above your head, it's a pitch. If it's below your head, it's a chip.

But I agree that a 64 takes a lot of practice -- a heckuva lot more than a 58-60. And is probably not the best choice for most of us.

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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Originally Posted by Gordon McTavish

With all the less than positive opinions on high lofted wedges around here, does nobody find themselves needing to flop the ball over a bunker to a tight pin very often?


It happens, but not often enough to make a significant impact in my game.  When the ball is lying in rough, I can usually make a pretty good flop with my 56°.  It's all a matter of opening the face enough and setting up properly.  So it just isn't worth bothering with a specialty club which I don't really need more than once every 5 or 6 rounds.  I'd rather spend my limited practice time with the clubs which are more universally useful to me.

Rick

"He who has the fastest cart will never have a bad lie."

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Originally Posted by Gordon McTavish

With all the less than positive opinions on high lofted wedges around here, does nobody find themselves needing to flop the ball over a bunker to a tight pin very often?

Sure, I think most people do see the shot every so often but in that situation I am ok with taking my medicine and having a 20+ footer for my two putt. Generally if I short-sided myself like that I don't compound my issues with trying a "knock down, cut, punch, draw, flop" shot. Hat's off to those that can hit the shot but experience taught me that taking the two putt keeps whatever momentum going as opposed to hitting a difficult shot after short siding myself on the previous one and then on to the next hole.

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Originally Posted by 1par2win

Sure, I think most people do see the shot every so often but in that situation I am ok with taking my medicine and having a 20+ footer for my two putt. Generally if I short-sided myself like that I don't compound my issues with trying a "knock down, cut, punch, draw, flop" shot. Hat's off to those that can hit the shot but experience taught me that taking the two putt keeps whatever momentum going as opposed to hitting a difficult shot after short siding myself on the previous one and then on to the next hole.


Word  +1

After playing golf for more than 30 years, probably the commonest mistake I see amateurs make is trying to get too "cute" when they've short-sided themselves.  Most of the time they leave the shot short of the green and they are still short-sided for the next one.  Better to be certain that whatever shot you plan, the result is that you're going to be putting the next one.  Short-siding ones self is a mistake, and at times you will be punished for your mistakes.  Best to minimize the punishment as much as possible.  Better a one chip - two putt bogey than a two chip - two or three putt disaster.

Rick

"He who has the fastest cart will never have a bad lie."

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Originally Posted by Gordon McTavish

With all the less than positive opinions on high lofted wedges around here, does nobody find themselves needing to flop the ball over a bunker to a tight pin very often?



Yes, I open a 60.

It's fun to practice. But I use a 60 for everything around the green, except for chips where I want a lot of roll. It has me familiar with one club - if you practice enough with that one club, your confidence grows -- at least, that's my story...

Ping G400 Max 9/TPT Shaft, TEE EX10 Beta 4, 5 wd, PXG 22 HY, Mizuno JPX919F 5-GW, TItleist SM7 Raw 55-09, 59-11, Bettinardi BB39

 

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It happens, but I hit a flop with the 58* or 60*.  A properly executed flop shot with a 58* or 60* seems to go straight up.  For years I only used a 56* and hit high arcing flop shots with that when needed.

Originally Posted by Gordon McTavish

With all the less than positive opinions on high lofted wedges around here, does nobody find themselves needing to flop the ball over a bunker to a tight pin very often?



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It's fun to practice hitting flop shots over my bag at the range, seeing how short I can stop it on the other side. It's not a shot that comes up often during a round, but I get a really good feel for trajectory, distance, and rollout. Those shots seem even easier on the course. And yet I had no love for a 64 degree wedge. Might be something to do with the 64 degree wedge I had though - a stainless steel Dunlop that always seemed like the wrong choice no matter when I used it. I'm a 50*PW/56/60 or 48*PW/54/60 guy now.

Quote:

It happens, but I hit a flop with the 58* or 60*.  A properly executed flop shot with a 58* or 60* seems to go straight up.  For years I only used a 56* and hit high arcing flop shots with that when needed.



Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.

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Note: This thread is 4809 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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