Indoor Rock Climbing

[billchao]

Anybody do indoor rock climbing? I’m thinking about trying it out and I’m not sure where/how to start.

It seems like something I could be pretty good at; I’m light with a good reach and a decent amount of upper body strength for my size. I’ve just never been that comfortable with trying new things or joining clubs on my own.

[dennyjones]

My daughter and her husband climbed quite a bit, actually bouldering.    They are both on the smaller size and have very good upper both strength.   I went to Planet Rock a couple of times and it was fun but I don't have the hand strength anymore.    Our meetup group has been and it's fun, I'm sure you'd enjoy yourself.    Don't hesitate because you feel uncomfortable being a single, the training and support at most places is friendly and welcoming.  

[billchao]

28 minutes ago, dennyjones said:

My daughter and her husband climbed quite a bit, actually bouldering.    They are both on the smaller size and have very good upper both strength.   I went to Planet Rock a couple of times and it was fun but I don't have the hand strength anymore.    Our meetup group has been and it's fun, I'm sure you'd enjoy yourself.    Don't hesitate because you feel uncomfortable being a single, the training and support at most places is friendly and welcoming.  

Do you think it would be better to get started by just walking in or taking a lesson with an instructor?

[dennyjones]

8 minutes ago, billchao said:

Do you think it would be better to get started by just walking in or taking a lesson with an instructor?

I believe that would be the best choice, yes.  

[Bonvivant]

1 hour ago, billchao said:

Anybody do indoor rock climbing? I’m thinking about trying it out and I’m not sure where/how to start.

It seems like something I could be pretty good at; I’m light with a good reach and a decent amount of upper body strength for my size. I’ve just never been that comfortable with trying new things or joining clubs on my own.

I climbed for about a year back in 2010. I became a member of a small gym in Columbus, OH, and also frequented the free outdoor wall that they have on the south side of the city. Having a decent reach is nice, but not necessary to becoming a proficient climber. Upper body strength means almost nothing at all in climbing though. It is more of balance and leg/core/grip strength that makes for a good climber. If you watch videos of good climbers, you will not see them pulling themselves up the faces with their arms. They will be using their legs and a good balance to get themselves there.

It is an absolute blast though. If you do decide to go to a indoor rock gym I have a couple of pieces of advice. If you do not have someone else to do this with, I suggest finding a gym that has a good bouldering wall, or has an auto belay system. People are always helpful and friendly in these places, but relying on someone you don't even know to belay you may feel like you are imposing on them. Or worse, you don't trust their belay and you freak out when you are 30 feet up in the air.

Try to remember that it is more about legs, grip and core if you go, too. If you are using your arms to pull yourself up the wall, you will be tired in 15 minutes and won't have too much fun with it. Most gyms offer day passes, not by the hour, so burning yourself out in those first few minutes after spending 10-20 dollars for a day pass + rental gear will be a hard loss and you won't be likely to go back.

If you decide to go with a friend, they staff should put you through a rope tying and belay course/test. This takes all of 20-30 minutes when you first get there. If they don't do this, something is seriously wrong (I have never been to gym that didn't do this). After the test, you will be free to climb as you please, and most gyms have the routes marked out with tape, and will have some type of difficulty scale that can be followed. I would suggest ignoring this at first and just finding your way up tthe wall without worrying about routes. After a couple of goes at that, find one of the easiest routes in the gym for a bit more of a challenge. You can follow the route with hands only (open feet) or follow with both hands and feet for a bit more of a challenge.

Like I said, if you go solo, find a gym with a good bouldering section. This is always where I spent most of my time because I am fairly afraid of heights. A good bouldering wall will have a mix of vertical, slight over-hang, and steep over-hanging sections. The steeper the over-hang the more your upper body strength will help, but it is still more of a balance, grip, and core thing even when you are with your back to the ground. The bouldering section will follow the taped route method, and should have grades that tell you how tough the problems are (problems are the bouldering equivalent to routes). The same idea follows if you go this route - start by just getting to the top a couple of times and then start on easy problems (open feet first and then closed feet).

I find the bouldering wall more fun and social because you don't spend quite as much time on the wall. You may sit for 2-5 minutes while other people are on the section of the wall that you are working on. You may run into another noob and you can work out problems together, share beta (information about how to complete a problem or route), and just shoot the breeze while you wait. Also, there will almost certainly be a climber that has been doing it far longer that you and can offer bits of advice, because they have probably solved most of the problems on the wall.

I never took a lesson, but only took pieces of advice from those that were more advanced than me. This isn't like golf where you need a coach to grow and improve quickly. Lots of times half the fun is figuring out how to get up a certain route/problem on your own.

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. Just tag me in the post you make and I'll answer anything.

Edited January 11, 2020 by Bonvivant
addition

[Bonvivant]

I just thought of a couple of other things, more side notes than anything else. I'd wager that the core and leg strength that are gained and required with rock climbing would offer a good boost when it comes to power, speed, and stability in the golf swing.

Another funny thing when it comes to grip strength: I remember seeing a bit back that people are told to grip light, and that is generally wrong because the average golfer doesn't have the grip strength of a pro. Something like a pro may say they are gripping it 3-4 out of 10, 10 being white-knuckling, but a pro's 3-4 may be an amateur's 7-8, and that is the grip strength that works best, although you do still have to have a loose wrist which is tougher when you are gripping at that level. I am wondering if the grip and hand strength gained by climbing may make it easier to have a looser wrist while maintaining that same grip pressure that pros describe as a 3-4. Perhaps a proficient climber that goes to the gym 2 times a week may feel that same grip pressure as a 5-6 instead of higher on the scale, thus making it easier to keep the wrists in a fluid motion instead of rigid.

I'd be interested to hear @iacas's take on this, because I believe he was the one that posted about how most amateurs are actually gripping the club weaker than they should. Any insight?

[boogielicious]

3 hours ago, billchao said:

Anybody do indoor rock climbing? I’m thinking about trying it out and I’m not sure where/how to start.

It seems like something I could be pretty good at; I’m light with a good reach and a decent amount of upper body strength for my size. I’ve just never been that comfortable with trying new things or joining clubs on my own.

Start here.

El Capitan, The Direct Line - AAC Publications - Search The American Alpine Journal and Accidents

---

search the american alpine journal and accidents in north american climbing by the american alpine clubs

My mother was an avid climber. It is best to work with some experienced people. We have a gym around here that gives group classes.

[billchao]

@Bonvivant, thanks for the information.

3 hours ago, Bonvivant said:

Upper body strength means almost nothing at all in climbing though. It is more of balance and leg/core/grip strength that makes for a good climber

I'm not worried about my leg/core strength, either. And your forearms are part of your upper body 😜

3 hours ago, Bonvivant said:

This isn't like golf where you need a coach to grow and improve quickly.

It's not that I think I'd need lessons to improve, just more about having someone experienced giving me a proper introduction to the activity.

1 hour ago, boogielicious said:

Start here.

El Capitan, The Direct Line - AAC Publications - Search The American Alpine Journal and Accidents

---

search the american alpine journal and accidents in north american climbing by the american alpine clubs

 

Too far away. I think I'll start with this instead:

 

1 hour ago, boogielicious said:

It is best to work with some experienced people.

That's what I'm thinking. Since I don't know anyone that could show me the ropes I'm leaning towards some form of instruction. Get in there, learn some things, meet some people. Just looking at some pictures of gyms, it's kind of intimidating. There are a bunch of holds on various walls all in different colors. If I walked in on my own I'd have absolutely no idea what I'd be doing.

[Bonvivant]

1 minute ago, billchao said:

@Bonvivant, thanks for the information.

I'm not worried about my leg/core strength, either. And your forearms are part of your upper body 😜

It's not that I think I'd need lessons to improve, just more about having someone experienced giving me a proper introduction to the activity.

That's what I'm thinking. Since I don't know anyone that could show me the ropes I'm leaning towards some form of instruction. Get in there, learn some things, meet some people. Just looking at some pictures of gyms, it's kind of intimidating. There are a bunch of holds on various walls all in different colors. If I walked in on my own I'd have absolutely no idea what I'd be doing.

I'm really outgoing, so I didn't have any problems meeting people and getting tips from very good climbers, but I could see going for instruction first if your personality is more reserved.  It can be intimidating the first time, but it is one of the most welcoming, friendly, and helpful communities that I was ever a part of. I suppose one of the advantages (I am sure there are loads of others) of instruction is the lingo will probably be introduced more gradually. If you just meet a climber and ask for help on a particular route or problem, they might sound like they are speaking a different language at first, which is beyond confusing.

Good luck, and I hope you have a blast. You are making me want to go find my shoes and chalk, lol.

[iacas]

I climbed at an indoor facility in Florida, Ft. Lauderdale. Was great. Had the shoes, the belt, the chalk bag, everything. Really enjoyed it, even though I'm a bit thicker and, like long-distance runners, good climbers tend to be thin (CG can be closer to the wall) and lighter weight.

[billchao]

4 minutes ago, Bonvivant said:

I'm really outgoing, so I didn't have any problems meeting people and getting tips from very good climbers, but I could see going for instruction first if your personality is more reserved.

Oh I'm not, at all. Put me in a room full of people I know and I'll talk your ear off, but put me in a room full of strangers? Fuggedaboutit.

7 minutes ago, Bonvivant said:

You are making me want to go find my shoes and chalk, lol.

I didn't even think about gear. What kind of stuff would I really need to get started? Can I just go in sneakers?

8 minutes ago, iacas said:

I climbed at an indoor facility in Florida, Ft. Lauderdale. Was great.

I talked to a couple of people I know and they said it was fun, too. Guess I'm just going to have to give it a shot.

[Bonvivant]

4 minutes ago, billchao said:

I didn't even think about gear. What kind of stuff would I really need to get started? Can I just go in sneakers?

Most gyms don't allow you to climb in street shoes. As a first timer, you will probably be best served to just rent shoes and possibly chalk too. The chalk thing is about 50/50 on gyms that offer it as an option. If you are going to top-rope, then you will rent a harness as well. If you go once or twice, and know that you are going to continue to do it, you will want to buy your own climbing shoes, chalk bag and chalk, and a harness too if you are into the higher walls.

Rock climbing shoes come in a very large variety, and if you get serious, you will want your own so that they fit like a glove and serve your purpose best. Here is a decent write up on the types:

Tackle steep slab or overhung terrain in our picks for the best climbing shoes

---

Whether you enjoy pulling on plastic or ascending granite faces in wild places, here are our picks for the best climbing shoes you can buy. We've included options for all different types of climbing, experience levels, and a...

The shoes that I wore were were of a moderate and slip-on variety (5.10 moccasyms). I bought them very close to uncomfortably tight, but they wear in over time and mold to your feet. La Sportiva and Five Ten are probably the top two brands, and shoes can range in price from 60-160 USD depending on the shoe. In the article they mentioned that most beginners should choose a flat shoe, but the performance of these shoes will leave something to be desired if you end up sticking with it. I skipped flat shoes and went straight to moderate. The shoes that a gym will rent out will almost always be flat, and relatively worn out, so they don't offer the best grip/sharpest edges, but they will get you into it just fine.