Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 762 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted

I’ve recently bought a new driver and three wood head, updated to the latest Ping models.

My current set have Fujikura shafts, and they would fit the new models, but I thought I might buy shafts and sell the older ones complete. 
A quick search on eBay shows prices ranging from US$50-US$500, so my question is what is so different to justify those prices. ?

There are plenty around the $100 mark, what if anything is there to gain by buying such an expensive shaft?

Just for information only ,as there is no way I would pay that for a Golf shaft , but also I would be staying away from the cheapest ones .

Normally, you get what you pay for, and in this instance, I’m not sure exactly what I am paying for  .

 

Thanks

Thanks

 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

  • Administrator
Posted

Are you asking why some shafts are more expensive than others?

  • Marketing.
  • The market.
  • Materials.
  • Design.
  • Construction.
  • Feature set.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
43 minutes ago, iacas said:

Are you asking why some shafts are more expensive than others?

  • Marketing.
  • The market.
  • Materials.
  • Design.
  • Construction.
  • Feature set.

I am more asking, is there any significant advantage to me buying an expensive shaft?

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

Those 3,4,5 hundred dollar shafts are 'usually' precision made with the highest of tolerances regarding materials, weight, trueness, kick points, etc... and are usually meant for the elite players who can tell the difference. A fitting tech who works on commission might try and upsell out of a stock shaft by showing those extra 2 yards you get with the $400 shaft instead of the stock one. 

For 99% (or more) of golfers, one of the 3 or 4 stock shaft choices will work just fine. 


  • Moderator
Posted

For shafts, as the stiffness increases (torque decreases), the weight increases. Elite shafts, more money, give option of keeping weight low with the lower torque. It certainly isn’t always the case. But if I want to keep the weight around 62g and find torque around 3.0, there is basically nothing unless you want to spend $300.

Most people would never need an expensive shaft. The $50 ones are just fine. As skill and driver distance goes up and you want to get the right launch numbers, you may have to buy a more expensive shaft that fits you best.  

Philip Kohnken, PGA
Director of Instruction, Lake Padden GC, Bellingham, WA

Srixon/Cleveland Club Fitter; PGA Modern Coach; Certified in Dr Kwon’s Golf Biomechanics Levels 1 & 2; Certified in SAM Putting; Certified in TPI
 
Team :srixon:!

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
On 1/30/2024 at 9:12 PM, Sammydreep said:

I am more asking, is there any significant advantage to me buying an expensive shaft?

It's pretty much impossible to answer this question without a proper fitting. 

The answer is going to be different for every person.

Most of the high end shafts are "better" shafts in terms of materials used, tolerances, etc, but whether that "better" shaft is better for you can't be answered by strangers on the internet.

Driver: :titleist:  GT3
Woods:  :cobra: Darkspeed LS 3Wood
Irons: :titleist: U505 (3)  :tmade: P770 (4-PW)
Wedges: :callaway: MD3 50   :titleist: SM9 54/58  
Putter: :tmade: Spider X

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

I replied to this earlier, but it seems to have disappeared. 
Thanks for your replies folks, I would say you’ve confirmed what  I suspected  .

I’ve just swapped shafts from the old club at the moment, what a mission to get the shaft out of the head.

The G 410 was a 14°, the G430 a 16° .

I am hitting it way higher than I thought with a 2° difference , and I’ve had to tee it right down. The bonus is, I appear to be hitting it a little bit further  ;-)

 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

I was fit for my driver and hybrids many years ago, but went back in to see how much had changed over the years (as I just got fit for new irons). As I've gotten older (turning 60 this year), my swing speed was down almost 7 mph from when I got fitted before (5 years ago it was 100 mph and now it was down around 92-94).  So I hit 4 shafts and 2 were really close to each other, but the differences were pretty negligible. One shaft was their stock shaft and the other was a $400 higher-end one.  They were both way better then my current shaft, so I'm switching to the stock lighter stiff shaft ($150).  And it gained me back about 4 mph, and then tweaking the hosel setting, it made the dispersion even better. 

Now I just need to get my clubs back and see how it goes on the course.

 

-Jerry

Driver: Titleist 913 D3 (9.5 degree) – Aldila RIP 60-2.9-Stiff; Callaway Mini-Driver Kura Kage 60g shaft - 12 degree Hybrids: Callway X2 Hot Pro - 16 degree & 23 degree – Pro-Shaft; Callway X2 Hot – 5H & 6H Irons: Titleist 714 AP2 7 thru AW with S300 Dynamic Gold Wedges: Titleist Vokey GW (54 degree), Callaway MackDaddy PM Grind SW (58 degree) Putter: Ping Cadence TR Ketsch Heavy Balls: Titleist Pro V1x & Snell MyTourBall

"Golf is the closest game to the game we call life. You get bad breaks from good shots; you get good breaks from bad shots but you have to play the ball where it lies."- Bobby Jones

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 762 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • The first post is here:   Do you have an overly long backswing that ruins sequencing and leads to poor shots? In nearly 20 years of teaching, I've found 5 common faults. You don't have to swing like Jon Rahm, but a shorter swing will probably help you #PlayBetter golf. Which is your fatal flaw? #1 - Trail Elbow Bend Average golfers ♥️ bending their trail elbows. It can feel powerful! Tour players bend their trail elbows MUCH less. A wider trail elbow creates a longer hand path and preserves structure. It also forces more chest turn; not everything longer is bad! Overly bending your trail elbow can wreak havoc on your swing. It pulls your arms across/beside your body. It requires more time to get the elbow bend "out," ruining your sequencing. The lead arm often bends and low point control is destroyed. The misconception is that it will create more speed, but that's often the opposite of what happens. Golfers often feel they swing "easier" but FASTER with wider trail elbows. Want to play better golf with a shorter backswing? Don't bend your elbow so much. #2 - Hip (Pelvis) Turn I see this all the time: a golfer's hips are only 5-10° open at impact, but he turns them back 60°+ in the backswing. Unless your father is The Flash, your hips are probably not getting 40° open at impact from there! That's more rotation than Rory! Golfers who over-rotate their pelvis often over-turn everything - trail thigh/knee, chest/shoulders, etc. They have more work to do in the same ~0.3 seconds as a Tour player who turns back ~40° and turns through to impact 40° or so. Want to shorten the pelvis turn a bit? Learn to internally rotate into the trail hip, externally rotate away from the lead hip, and do "less" with your knees (extending and flexing) in the backswing. Learn some separation between chest and pelvis. #3 - Rolled Inside and Lifted Up Amateurs love to send the club (and their arms) around them. You see the red golfer here all the time at your local range. The problem? Your arms mostly take the club UP, not around. Going around creates no height until you have to hoist the club up in the air because you're halfway through your backswing and the club is waist high and three feet behind your butt! 😄  Learn to use your arms properly. Arms = up/down, body = around. Most golfers learn how little their arms really have to do in the backswing. The picture here is all you've gotta do (but maybe with a properly sized club!). #4 - Wide Takeaway Width is good, no? Yes, if you're wide at the right time and in the right spots. Golfers seeking width often don't hinge the club much early in the backswing… forcing them to hinge it late. Hinging the club late puts a lot of momentum into the club, wrists, and elbow just before we need to make a hairpin turn in transition and go the other direction at the start of the downswing. When you're driving into a hairpin curve, you go into it slowly and accelerate out of it. Waiting to hinge is like coasting down the straightaway and accelerating into the hairpin. Your car ends up off the road, and your golf ball off the course. Give hinging at a faster rate (earlier) then coasting to the top a try. You'll be able to accelerate out of the hairpin without the momentum of the arms and club pulling in the wrong direction.   #5 - Sway and Tilt Some sway is good but sometimes I see a golfer who just… keeps… swaying… Their chest leans forward a bit for balance, resulting in a whole lotta lean. The green line below is the GEARS "virtual spine." Pros sway a bit, but stay ~90°. This sway often combines with the extra pelvis turn because this golfer is not putting ANY limits on what the "middle of them" (their pelvis) is doing in the backswing. These golfers spend a lot of energy just to get back to neutral! The best players begin pushing forward EARLY in the backswing. Often before the club gets much past their trail foot! Pushing forward (softly) first stops your backward sway and then begins to get your body moving toward the target. Push softly, but early!  
    • I  no longer spend the time and effort trying to sell something I no longer need. Instead, if the clubs are in good condition, I go to my local golf shop or even Dicks Sporting Goods. Trade the clubs in for store credit and pick up something I need, like a hat. Cause you always need another golf hat!
    • Day 205 3-10 Wider backswing, reconnecting arm in downswing/arching wrist through. Also worked on less pause at the top. Recorded and hit a few foam balls. 
    • I really enjoyed this episode with Nick from Callaway. I didn't know the problem with swing weight and female golfers, but it makes sense. I actually think swing weight might not matter that much. If everyone senses the club differently, then wouldn't it mean that people might feel swing weights differently? Swing weight is a way to classify how heavy a club feels during the swing. Yet for a 70-year-old golfer, a D0 might feel like a D4 for a 25-year-old golfer? I think stronger people would consider higher swing weights lighter. Maybe a C8 equals a D2 in terms of feel?   
    • Wordle 1,725 3/6 ⬜🟨⬜🟨⬜ ⬜🟨🟩⬜⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.