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Master "Forged vs. Cast" or "Blade vs. Game-Improvement" Iron Thread


muskegman
Note: This thread is 1415 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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If you're on the fence, do it! Else you'll always wish you did. They're no harder to hit than any other iron if you strike the ball well.
What's In My Stand Bag...
Driver: R9 TP 9.5*
3W: R9 15*
Hybrid: Rescue Dual TP 2H 16*
Irons 3-P: MP-62Wedges: Vokey 52* & 58*Putter: 34" Newport StudioBall: Pro V1x
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As a "cobbler" myself, I need to put my two cents in. Whether you hit a blade, or a player's cavity back, they do about the same thing when you hit them in the center, except the cb might be longer and the blade might "feel" better. But what happens when you don't hit it dead center? that's what you should think about when purchasing irons. Perimeter weighting makes all the difference in the world, and even the smallest cavity will perform better than a blade on off-center hits. The main two reasons to use a blade are either a: you hit the ball dead center 98-100% of the time, or b: your iron trajectory is too high, and blades bent a degree or two strong with the proper shaft is the best way to help this. But if neither one of those applies to you, and you still want blades, get something that resembles a blade (MacGregor V-foil, Callaway X-forged) or a very understated cavity back (Mizuno MP-62, Titleist ZB.) Yes, today's blades are easier to hit, but since that is true, just think how that applies to cavity backs.

Agreed. I would say go for a "players' CB" of varying degrees. Titleist AP2, Ping S58, Callaway X22 Tour, TaylorMade Tour Preferred, Mizuno MP62...there are tons of great choices. If you haven't read it, check out Golf Digest's Hot List and also go to a store and test out a bunch of these sets.

Scott T

G5 9° V2 75 X / 909F2 15.5° V2 85 X / 909H 19° V2 100 X / MP-33 #3-PW X100 / X-Forged Chrome 54.15 60.10 X100 / FGP Black 34" / Penta TP

Handicap is a guess because I haven't established one yet.Best score so far is a 71 on a 6,509 yard 70.3/121 par 72 muni, during a glorious...
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Thanks for the replies and advice everyone. It looks like I will be purchasing some blades

But what happens when you don't hit it dead center? that's what you should think about when purchasing irons. Perimeter weighting makes all the difference in the world, and even the smallest cavity will perform better than a blade on off-center hits.

That is exactly why I want to get a less forgiving club. If I am striking the ball poorly I want to know.

If you are someone whose idea of practice is going to the range once or twice a week and only playing once a week, blades probably arent the best idea.

I play every day weather & time allow. usually 9 holes 3 or 4 times during the week and 18 on Saturday and Sunday. I only hit the range maybe twice a week. That is one of my bad habits. Hitting range balls is really boring to me. I would rather be playing. The issue is the course is not a good place to try and work issues out

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That is exactly why I want to get a less forgiving club. If I am striking the ball poorly I want to know.

I would suggest then getting a older or cheaper set of blades to practice with, and some player's cb to actually play with.

In my stand bag:
909D3 with 10.5 degrees of loft and a 45 inch Fujikura Rombax 6Z08, x-flex
909F3 15* with a stock Diamana Blue
FT 18* with an Aldila NV
X-forged ('07), 3-PW with Project X 6.0 CG12, 53/11, and 58* with DSG Red X2, 33"All with Lamkin Crossline Full Cord. (except the putter of...

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Agreed. I decided to take golf seriously this year, and am planning on getting some older blades to practice with (maybe Mizuno MP29's or MP30's). Currently playing Ping Eye2's. I made the decision to go with blades when I demo'd some Mizuno MP67's and Titleist AP2's. I happened to be striking the ball fairly well that day, and I must say, I seemed to 'feel' the clubhead/face much better with the blades and player's CB, and those pure shots sure felt REAL good.

Man, my hands hurt more on the misses. Good reinforcement to
stop missing

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I would suggest then getting a older or cheaper set of blades to practice with, and some player's cb to actually play with.

Why would you practice with different clubs than you play with? I am honestly asking. It doesn't make sense to me so I must be missing something.

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Wow $360? That would be sweet since I thought I was thinking it would be in the $1k range. Isn't it best to get fitted rather than buy off the rack? One of my issues is that I am 6'6" tall so if nothing else I need a longer shaft.
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I bought a set of Mizuno MP-57 irons a week ago and have since recorded my lowest 18 hole round 77, and my lowest 9 hole round 38 in the 4 rounds I've played with them so far. I went from a super game improvement iron to these and can't say how impressed I am with them.

Also included with my irons I picked up a mizuno mp-R series 56 wedge and find it leaps and bounds better then my 56 vokey spin milled wedge I was using. I just feel like the mizuno's sole is easier to work with. Also it is a little heavier then the Vokey which kinda gets knocked around in deeper rough.

Tour Burner 10.5 R
mp 57's
Vokey Spin Milled 56.10
Pal 4
Pro-V1X

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  • Administrator

Yeah, that's one side of the argument. The other has been presented here (and elsewhere) countless times.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

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Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Sent you a PM regarding this topic.

|Callaway FT-9 Tour Neutral 9.5 Diamana BlueBoard| TaylorMade TourLaunch 14.5 Matrix Ozik F7M2 X| Adams Idea Pro 20 Matrix Ozik Altus X| Mizuno MP-32 4-PW TTDG S300|Titleist Vokey 50| Tour Issue Titleist Black Ni Vokey SM 54|Callaway X Forged 62 || Kirk Currie Brazos| Callaway Tour IX/...

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One thing that I love about blades is the feedback to get even when you are practicing pitching with a PW, I played my old set of Comp EZs and I can not tell with my PW if I am hitting it solid or not but with mp mp33s I can tell right away.

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1

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I have been playing off and on for about 5 years. My second year of playing I went out and got fitted for clubs. I ended up with a set of TA7 custom to my swing at the time. Since then my stance, grip and swing have all changed A LOT. I need to get new irons and I am trying to figure out if I should go with blades or another cavity set.

Is your logic wrong? Yes, I believe it is. My problem with logic is that I think you put way too much emphasis on the club being the solution. I honestly think that even its true that today's blades are much easier to hit and you should be able to them that most of us would be much better off sticking to cavity back irons. I think you're gonna find that if you switch to blades 1 of 2 things will happen.

1. You'll love them and be a better golfer for having them. I'll be wrong and will gladly eat my words. 2. You make the switch and you find that even though you can hit them you just can't play the ball as well as you hit you're old irons or like you'd hoped to be able to. So you start trying harder and harder to hit them and the game (which serious or not, every golfer has to admit this is just a game) becomes harder and less enjoyable. So you do 1 of 2 things. (A) sell the clubs and buy others in which you lose money because you won't get what you paid for them or (B) take some lessons and a pro tells you what you already know. The irons are way too good for your swing and you should think about new irons that are custom fit to you. In which case, its you're back to square A. My suggestion, if you really are going to become a "serious golfer" and play the game "not just for fun", which I can't comprehend either unless you're pro, then go get custom fit for irons and let a professional make a recommendation. Easy to hit or not blades may not be the best solution and ya have to quit blaming you're clubs and focus on the swing and strategy.

Clubs:
Driver: Ping Rapture 10.5 degree, Stiff Flex shaft
Fairway Wood: Ping Rapture 17* - Stiff Shaft
Hybrids: Callaway Heaven Wood 20* Firm Flex
Irons: Titleist 704 CB (Forged) (4-PW), Dynamic Gold S300 ShaftsWedges: Titleist Vokey 52 and 58 degreePutter: Odessy White Hot XG Model #1Bag: Ping HooferBa...

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Why would you practice with different clubs than you play with? I am honestly asking. It doesn't make sense to me so I must be missing something.

i agree. playing with 2 different sets doesnt make much sense.

honestly, todays blades are not hard to hit guys. ESPECIALLY when most of us just use 4-PW, 5-PW set-ups anyways. todays blades (musclebacks) have thicker soles than the butter knives of the 60's and 70's which makes it easier to get the ball airborne (among other things). if you are a halfway decent ballstriker, i dont see any reason why you couldn't play with a set of modern blades. older blades? now thats a different story altogether. those things can be harsh
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I think the biggest difference between a blade (style club) and a SGI or GI club is the way you set up to the ball...I think with the offset in SGI and some GI irons that your set up can get thrown out of whack which can definitely affect your ball striking. Now I know your set up can get off hitting a blade style iron (that is why you have a coach) but you have a better chance of getting set up over the ball correctly with a blade. Haven't you picked up a new blade of the rack and set it down and immediately said "I can hit that"...but becuase of what you have heard about blades you calmly put it back on the rack and go about your business?

My understandning is this is why most Pro's still play a blade style iron even with all the forgiveness out there with a GI or SGI club. I know some of them play cavity back irons but most of those clubs are still pretty close (specs) to a blade in offset, bounce, etc...

One example is that SGI and GI irons are made to try and make up for Amateur's poor set up and poor swing path. If you have an over the top move (potentially because of your set up) then most of the time your swing will be steep and if you do not have enough bounce you will dig into the ground (if you were hitting a blade) so the manufacturers put enough bounce on the club so it will bounce off the turf and keep you from digging. But a better players swing path is more shallow (better set up) and therfore can play with less bounce (on blades)....just my 2 cents...

TEE - XCG6, 13º, Matrix Ozik HD6.1, stiff
Wilson Staff - Ci11, 3-SW, TX Fligthed, stiff

Odyssey - Metal X #7, 35in

Wilson Staff - FG Tour ball 

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Is your logic wrong? Yes, I believe it is. My problem with logic is that I think you put way too much emphasis on the club being the solution. I honestly think that even its true that today's blades are much easier to hit and you should be able to them that most of us would be much better off sticking to cavity back irons. I think you're gonna find that if you switch to blades 1 of 2 things will happen.

No offense but you miss read everything I said. Or attempted to say. Do I think switching to blades will make my game better NO WAY. I actually think it will make my game worse. At least up front. I want a club that will tell me when I hit the ball wrong not cover up for it thus improving my swing. Using your train of thought, or at least the way I am interpreting it, clubs don't matter. Right? So I am just as well off to purchase a $70 set of Willsons as I am buying a $1000 set of Mizunos? As far as the serious vs fun.. well if I get serious and improve my game then it will be more fun. Do I want to be a "Pro" no. But it would be nice to shoot a 75 - 80 instead of an 85 - 100
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To pretty much agree with Primate here, I definately agree that your ball striking will improve using blades or any other less forgiving iron. With that being said, sure it will be harder to hit greens (at least at first). If you're an "aspiring" player, going with a player's iron even if you're not ready yet is probably a good thing. I would suggest though to get a used set, or less expensive set of blades at first to make sure it's really what you want.

In the end, you might shoot better nearly every shot with a cavity back, but I think you'll improve way faster than using a game improvement club from the get-go. I personally love my blades, and if you're hitting shots off the toe and expect you're club to fix that for you then you're not an 'aspiring' golfer anyway.

They're not for everyone, but then again there's no such thing as a one-fits-all club. Hit what you have confidence in, and have fun. That's all that matters.
What's In My Stand Bag...
Driver: R9 TP 9.5*
3W: R9 15*
Hybrid: Rescue Dual TP 2H 16*
Irons 3-P: MP-62Wedges: Vokey 52* & 58*Putter: 34" Newport StudioBall: Pro V1x
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Note: This thread is 1415 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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