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  1. 1. Which 3-wood?

    • TaylorMade Burner TP
      13
    • Ping G10
      9
    • Titleist 906F4
      15
    • Other
      32


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Posted
If you are a 20 hndcp... forget the Cleveland, Callaway and TaylorMade... go to Rockbottomgolf.com and look for the Adams LP Fairway wood. You can get it in a 13*... smaller head, lower profile and easy as pie to get in the air with good distance. On top of all that you can get it for under 50 bucks.

Hmm this isn't a bad option until I become a better ballstriker. What shaft should I be getting in stiff? The Aldila or ProLaunch?

« Keith »


Posted
pick a 3 wood that's 5 to 6 degree higher than your driver

What's the reasoning behind this? Just curious.

« Keith »


Posted
Titleist or Nike, and even better would be the Nike hybrids. Awesome clubs there.

In my bag:
Driver: 907D1 10.5*, Aldila Spec-Grid S67 reg
Woods: Looking for a wood. Titleist 906F4 or Nike CPR.
Utility: CPR 2-3 hybrids, 22*-26*Irons: 755 Forged 4-PW, Tri-Spec Steel RegWedges: Vokey 200 series 56.10 SW, 60.04 LWPutter: Tracy 33"Ball: DT CarryI mark my Titleist by...


Posted
Taylor Made Burner Non TP version is good...it's so easy to get the ball hit up :)

_________________
Patrick the Pup
Bag : Edge
Driver : 9.5 Ti460
Fairway Wood : F Speed 3 WoodHybrid : XLS 2i Irons : 3 - PW MP 29 Wedges : SW (56) + LW (60) MPT WedgesPutters : Itchy Bitchy Monza SpiderBall : NXT Tour


Posted
I've been searching around a bit myself for a new 3 wood, too.

Of the ones listed, the G10 appeals to me the best. I will be getting the 15 degree...not the strong lofted model. I could see where the 4 wood really would appeal to you as well.

Another brand that I've heard way to much about not to demo them is Tour Edge.

I look forward to the day when I can get a smooth hitting 3 wood back in my bag.

Good luck on your hunt!!!
909D Comp 9.5* (house MATRIX OZIK XCON-6)
Burner Superfast 3 & 5 woods (house MATRIX OZIK XCON-4.8)
G15 Hybrid 23* (AWT shaft)
G5 5 iron-PW-46*, UW-50*, SW-54 & LW-58 (AWT shaft)
Studio Select Newport 2 Mid SlantGrips: PING cords & Golf Pride New Decade Multi-Coumpound Bag: C-130...

Posted
I'm trying to choose one of the 4 fairway woods.

Seeing that you are a 20 handicap I would think that maybe the Ping G10 would be better for you even though I have never hit it but it seems from everything I have read that it is very forgiving...on another note take a look at the

Burner (not TP). That is what is in my bag (see sig below) and it is the most forgiving 3 wood I have ever owned. It is very good off the tee as well as off the turf...just my 2 cents...

TEE - XCG6, 13º, Matrix Ozik HD6.1, stiff
Wilson Staff - Ci11, 3-SW, TX Fligthed, stiff

Odyssey - Metal X #7, 35in

Wilson Staff - FG Tour ball 


Posted
I didnt vote. Who cares what other people like or choose. If i were you I would thoroughly test all the major brands and determine which one suites you best and performs the best for YOUR swing!

I would have to agree. I use a 904F, but it is a 4 wood.

Joey R

In the Bag:

905T w/Aldila NV 75x 904F w/Dynamic Gold x100 MP-32 w/Project X 6.5 Vokey 52.08 BeCu 56 MP-R 60 Studio Stainless Newport 2 ProV1, ProV1x, or NXT Tour


Posted
What's the reasoning behind this? Just curious.

It's from Japanese Golf Digest.

I think the reason is that 13* 3w isn't very easy to launch. If you don't swing fast enough, your carry will actually be shorter than a 15* 3w. So if you can launch and carry the longest with a 7.5 or 8.5 degree driver, you wouldn't have any problem with 13* 3w. For average men with a 9.5 or 10.5 driver, 15 is probably more ideal This is my guess. Another possible reason could be that you are launching with your driver @13 to 14 degree. With a 13* 3w, you are also launching the ball 13*. Then you have two clubs that go the same distance or at least very close. If you use a 10.5 driver and have no problem with a 13* 3 wood, then go for it! Try it before you buy.

Launcher 460 10.5° <BB Solution 130 R>
Wishon 949MC 16.5° <SK Fiber Tour Trac 80 R>
3DX DC Ironwood 20°, 23° <UST SR2 R>
MX-23 5-PW <KBS Tour R>
Vokey 250.08, SM54.10, SM58.08 <DG Wedge> Callie 33.75"TLT Series 4MOI matched


Posted
I'm really contemplating the Adams LP but not sure which shaft would fit me best. The ProLaunch or Aldila NV. The price is so cheap that I can use this for a couple years until I'm ready to invest in a better 3-wood.

« Keith »


Posted

I am stuck also. I have an older Titleist 975F 13.5* Pro Trajectory 3-wood and an older Titleist 975F 16.5* Pro Trajectory 5-wood. I am looking to consolidate these two clubs by getting a newer 15* 3-wood.

I need some advice on which one to get that is out there. I have looked at the Nike Sasquatch2 and the TM r7 Draw because of their prices. I do have a slight slice as well, just another reason for the draw. I just don't want to get it and then in a month or two I won't have that slice due to practice and then i have to set up for the draw.

I am a higher handicap player due to not enough time to practice and I would really appreciate some advice. Should I just go to the pro shop and test them all out? Sorry for not starting a new thread, but I am being hit by the "newbie" stage by just registering. Thanks ahead of time!


Posted
I have a Cobra Speed Pro X from last year that I like a lot. It's got a fairly shallow face so it's easier for me to hit off the deck than the G10 or Burner. Just my 2 cents.

Posted
Hmm this isn't a bad option until I become a better ballstriker. What shaft should I be getting in stiff? The Aldila or ProLaunch?

Personally I like the Aldila... The Grafalloy should give you a higher ball flight. I have it in the Aldila shaft but have since upgraded to the Cleveland XLS 13*... It is alot harder to hit. Im still not as consistant with it than I was the Adams but I get more distance out of it. It must be the Fujikura shaft.

13 Wedges
1 Putter


Posted
I am new to this site and just have a few questions. I am not a great golfer but I love the game. I bought a set of clubs last year nicklaus cd2 irons and I dont like the hybrids. I was not fitted and I was thinking of going and getting fitted and purchase some cobra fp II irons. I play around 3-4 times a week. Just for fun and play in some scramble tourn. but I want to get better. Should I go and get fitted or just keep playing with the ones I have. I am 6'3 and my iron shots seems to shoot right most of the time. I have heard differeent things about getting fitted. I cant aford to go to lessons all the time but I can go to golf first or dicks and get fitted. any sug. William

You might be able get your nicklaus fitted (not sure about bending cast irons)or get a new set.

You might need longer shafts. Shooting right could be your clubs or your swing. Fitting without buying a new set will probably cost the same as a one hour private lesson. If you buy a new set, it's usually included.

Launcher 460 10.5° <BB Solution 130 R>
Wishon 949MC 16.5° <SK Fiber Tour Trac 80 R>
3DX DC Ironwood 20°, 23° <UST SR2 R>
MX-23 5-PW <KBS Tour R>
Vokey 250.08, SM54.10, SM58.08 <DG Wedge> Callie 33.75"TLT Series 4MOI matched


  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Definately hit as many clubs as you can and if you have never hit a Tour Edge Exotics fairway wood then you should definately hit them for sure. You can get the CB1 for about 180 bucks and they are probably the best fairway woods out there in my opinion. The 3 wood could very well run your driver out of the bag! Hit as many clubs as you can and you'll know immediately which one is the best for you.

Posted
get the Ping. It has a nice feel to it out of different lies. 15º to go with ur driver.

Posted
I have a Big Bertha 3W with steel shaft. The club is my magic wand. When I cant hit my driver, the BB 3W saves the day. It is my favorite club in my bag.

Posted
I use Titleist, so I had to vote for them. I want to try the 906F4 anyways.

Joey R

In the Bag:

905T w/Aldila NV 75x 904F w/Dynamic Gold x100 MP-32 w/Project X 6.5 Vokey 52.08 BeCu 56 MP-R 60 Studio Stainless Newport 2 ProV1, ProV1x, or NXT Tour


Note: This thread is 6391 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
    • Wordle 1,668 3/6 🟨🟨🟩⬜⬜ ⬜🟨⬜⬜🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
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