Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 6002 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
Title pretty much speaks for itself.
What are the main causes that a ball hooks to the left?

Is it inside-outside swing?
Arms are coming in too fast before the hips?
Wrists are rotating on the upswing?

Slowly building my set.

In my Vaporlite Bag:

Driver: SQ DYMO STR-8 FIT 10.5°Woods: R9 Fairway #3 15°Hybrid: Rescue Hybrid #3 19°Irons: R7 3-PWWedges: 588 DSG Gunmetal 56° Spin Milled 260.08Putter: Black Series Tour #2


  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted
A closed clubface can cause a hook. The worst kind is the pull hook which is caused by a closed clubface and a out to in swing path.

« Keith »


Posted
For me, the most frequent hook culprit is that I (unwillingly) allow my right hand to roll over as I make contact with the ball. I have to keep practicing what I would call 'neutral wrists' as I swing through.

John Hanley
Sugar Land, TX
Driver: Pinemeadow ZR-1 460cc 10.5 degree; senior flex graphite shaft;
6-PW: ProStaff Oversize; graphite (about 13 years old);
Adams Tight Lies fairway woods.

Cleveland CG14 56° sand wedge

Zebra 395gm Mallet putter


Posted
I usually hook when I have too tight of a grip with my glove hand, causes me to rotate the club through to quickly.

In the bag
Driver - Burner 460cc with Balistik Stiff Shaft
Hybrid Adams A4 3i
Hybrid Adams Golf Tight Lies 4 utility
Irons - Adams Golf Tight Lies 5-SW CG 12 52 degree 58 degree spin milled Classic #2 Putter


Posted
To add, a flat swing will cause a hook.

That's for sure, lol!

Had a few rough rounds were I was hitting the ball terrible. Finally yesterday on the range my wife of all people says "it looks like your club is coming back low". I think to myself...FLAT...she's right! All is well again...just need to jot down some swing notes so this doesn't happen again :). I guess all those "lessons" I've been giving my wife finally had some return ...just need to make sure that doesn't happen too often lol...next thing you know she'll think she can beat me or something crazy like that!!!

In my Datrek Rage bag:
Driver: Sumo 5000 w/ Aldila VS Proto Stiff
4-Wood: SasQuatch 2 w/ Diamana Stiff
Irons: AP2 4-PW w/ PX 6.0
Wedges: Zodia US Spec 52*, Yururi Gekku 57*, 588 DSG RTG+Putter: Scotty Cameron Studio Style 3.5 or Odyssey White Hot Tour #1Ball: ProV1 or whatever I find!


Posted
I've suffered terribly with the hooks. Here is what I've found.
1. I need to make sure I have a nuetral grip
2. Make sure the V's are lining up the same, I have a tendancy to have a little stronger right if I don't watch it.
3. Now this is hard to explain but it works for me. I "feel" like I'm leading with the hosel. I feels like on my downswing that I'm going to hit the ball with the back of the hosel. This gives me great lag and keeps me from turning my hands over to early. Just feel as you are coming down on the inside path(and you can really go way inside with this) that you are hitting the ball with the opposite side of the toe of the club. Your hands will turn if you relax and keep looking at the ball all the way through impact.- Steve

Posted
Feel free to correct me but my understanding is (for a right-handed golfer)...

the path the ball initially starts off at is based on swing path, ie a ball that starts off to the right of the target line has been struck on an in-to-out path; a ball that starts off straight has been struck with a club on path; a ball that starts off left of the target line has been struck with an out-to-in path. Again generally, what the ball does after that is based on face position at impact relative to the path. An open face with spin the ball to the right, a neutral face will keep the ball on path and a closed face will spin the ball to the left.

So my answer to your question without being specific would be to analyze the limb mechanics, grip, stance (and probably other factors) once establishing the shape of the shot.

In my bag..

Driver: Mighty Big T3, 8°, Grafalloy Prolite 35
Fairway Wood: PT, 13°
Fairway Wood: Seville 15° (in my bag since 1987)Irons: T-Zoid Pro, 3-PWSW: MP-9, 56°LW: Tour Star, 64°Putter: Allied Professional (in my bag since 1989)Ball: ProV1xShoes:


Posted
Feel free to correct me but my understanding is (for a right-handed golfer)...

I think the physics are as follows:

The ball will start flying in the direction the clubface was pointing at impact. The ball will curve based on sidespin created by the swingpath: an out-to-in swingpath causes a fade, and an in-to-out swingpath causes a draw. So yes, an open clubface will usually cause a fade, but that is because the swingpath is out-to-in relative to the direction the clubface was pointing at impact. (Sort of a what came first, the chicken or the egg type of deal.)
Scott T

G5 9° V2 75 X / 909F2 15.5° V2 85 X / 909H 19° V2 100 X / MP-33 #3-PW X100 / X-Forged Chrome 54.15 60.10 X100 / FGP Black 34" / Penta TP

Handicap is a guess because I haven't established one yet.Best score so far is a 71 on a 6,509 yard 70.3/121 par 72 muni, during a glorious...

Posted
I think the physics are as follows:

That's not entirely true. In my experience, the ball begins flying down a line about halfway between the swing path and the club face angle and then it turns about as much as the differential between those two angles.

I'm unusual in that I hit a draw by aiming my clubface to one side or another and then swinging normally down a line just outside where I want the balll to begin. For example, to hook around a tree, I set up 30 yards right of the green, as normal and then put the ball back in my stance and turn the club closed. I actually holed out a shot from behind a tree last week with that technique. Anyway, it's just a quibble, but it's important for people to recognize.

Driver: 905S 8* - Graffaloy Blue 65S Shaft (tipped 1" Short)
Fairway: 960F (15*, 19*)
Irons: T-Zoid Pro 4-PW w/ True Temper Steel
Wedges: MP-R Black 52*, 56*
Lob: 60* CG-10 (nice and rusty)Putter: OZ Putter (with oversized Winn Blue Grip)Ball:: One Tour


Posted
I think the physics are as follows:

It's the other way around, and I disagree, an open clubface will not produce a fade, but a slice.

The ball starts flying in the direction the club is swinging In to out = Starts out right Out to in = Starts out left Square = Starts out square The ball spin and fall down in the direction of where the clubface is aiming Open clubface = Ball lands to the right of the target line Closed clubface = Ball lands to the right of the target line Square clubface = Ball lands on the target line Now you can combine any of these and find 99% of all ball flights. A couple of examples: In to out swingpath and closed clubface = Ball starts out right and spins back to the left of the target line Out to in swingpath and closed clubface = Ball starts out left and continues straight, could also spin further left depending on how open the clubface is Square swingpath and open clubface = Ball starts straight and spins off to the right Out to in swingpath and square clubface = Ball starts left and spins back on the target line The definitions of the golf terms are often cause for confusion. Some call a ball starting straight and curving to the right a fade, some call it a slice. I like to define them by the result and not merely the ball flight itself. Regardless of definitions, the important thing is to know what causes the ball to go in either direction. It's pretty easy, and very useful to know. I've seen examples on this forum of people struggling with a ball flight from left to the target line and trying to close their clubface more, it makes no sense. I know some call a ball starting square and spinning slightly off to the left a fade, but I call it a slice. I think of a fade and draw as a desired shot which always come down where intended. The only difference of a slice and fade in some definitions is the amount of spin. I don't see the point in that. The problem is an open clubface and neither is a desired shot. A fade or draw is a shot where the ball actually lands where you intended and aimed the clubface, only the swingpath gives it a curve. I haven't included every type of shot here. You've got some starting left and spinning off to the right, a pull slice. Vica versa, ball starts right and spins off to the left, a push hook. When discussing using these terms, keep in mind that people define them differently, which may be cause for confusion. A severe condition of swingpath or clubface will produce extreme shots. Hitting the ground first and opening the clubface a lot will also slow down the speed of the clubhead and the ball may fly straight left, even with the swingpath going straight. These rules apply to a cleanly hit ball with a downwardstrike. Without it, the club won't apply enough speed to the ball to have it fly off in the direction of the swingpath.

Ogio Grom | Callaway X Hot Pro | Callaway X-Utility 3i | Mizuno MX-700 23º | Titleist Vokey SM 52.08, 58.12 | Mizuno MX-700 15º | Titleist 910 D2 9,5º | Scotty Cameron Newport 2 | Titleist Pro V1x and Taylormade Penta | Leupold GX-1

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
Feel free to correct me but my understanding is (for a right-handed golfer)...

+1 - just about sums it up!

WTIB:
Callaway FT-9 Tour 9.5° Scads of shafts - now: Kai'li 63 stiff
Tour Edge Exotics 3 & 5 FW
Callaway X-22 Tour irons
Bobby Jones 3 & 4 hybridsRife Abaco/Odyessy Black Series i9 puttersWith a few more hangin' around


Posted
Feel free to correct me but my understanding is (for a right-handed golfer)...

+1 - just about sums it up!

WTIB:
Callaway FT-9 Tour 9.5° Scads of shafts - now: Kai'li 63 stiff
Tour Edge Exotics 3 & 5 FW
Callaway X-22 Tour irons
Bobby Jones 3 & 4 hybridsRife Abaco/Odyessy Black Series i9 puttersWith a few more hangin' around


Posted
It's the other way around, and I disagree, an open clubface will not produce a fade, but a slice.

That has always been my understanding, but I have heard some people lately say the opposite.

BTW, good diagram. Maybe it should be posted somewhere on the site as a reference so we can all use the same language when talking about this stuff.

Instight XTD A30S Driver 10.5° ($69 new ebay)
Instight XTD A3OS Fairway Wood 15° ($45 new ebay)
Fybrid 19.5° ($35 new ebay)
Ci7 4-GW ($175 new Rock Bottom Golf via ebay)
53° & 58° 8620 DD wedges ($75 each new PGA Superstore) C2-DF ($35 new Rock Bottom Golf) Riley TT stand bag ($7 n...


Posted
For me, my hook swing flaw is caused by coming over the top with a closed club face. I have sufffered from this and I definitely come over the top and pull hook it.

For me to actually not hook I have to come more from the inside so it starts off to the left and draws.

Brian


Posted
interesting thread, great explains. +1 for suggestion of posting the diagram where it's easily located, maybe sticky it to the top of "Playing Tips" subforum?

Ping G2 Driver; Titleist 906F2 5W; TM Rescue Mid 3H; Adams Idea Pro 4H; Titleist DTR 3-SW; Callaway Bobby Jones Putter; Ping Hoofer lite

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
interesting thread, great explains. +1 for suggestion of posting the diagram where it's easily located, maybe sticky it to the top of "Playing Tips" subforum?

I would agree on having that ball flight attachment as a sticky. I know once I figured it out my game tremendously improved. Not only could I figure out what I was doing wrong but it allowed me to try intentionally shaping shots.

In my bag..

Driver: Mighty Big T3, 8°, Grafalloy Prolite 35
Fairway Wood: PT, 13°
Fairway Wood: Seville 15° (in my bag since 1987)Irons: T-Zoid Pro, 3-PWSW: MP-9, 56°LW: Tour Star, 64°Putter: Allied Professional (in my bag since 1989)Ball: ProV1xShoes:


Note: This thread is 6002 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Yea, I think the first thing is to define block, variable, and random practice with regards to golf.  The easiest one might be in practicing distance control for putting. Block practice would be just hitting 50 putts from 5 feet, then 50 putts from 10 ft then 50 putts from 15 ft. While random practice would having a different distance putt for every putt.  In terms of learning a new motor pattern, like let's say you want to make sure the clubhead goes outside the hands in the backswing. I am not sure how to structure random practice. Maybe block practice is just making the same 100 movements over and over again. I don't get how a random practice is structured for something like learning a new motor pattern for the golf swing.  Like, if a NFL QB needs to work on their throw. They want to get the ball higher above the shoulder. How would random practice be structured? Would they just need someone there to say, yes or no for feedback? That way the QB can go through an assortment of passing drills and throws trying to get the wright throwing motion?  For me, how do you structure the feedback and be time effective. Let's say you want to work on the club path in the backswing. You go out to the course to get some random practice. Do you need to set up the camera at each spot, check after each shot to make it random?  I know that feedback is also a HUGE part of learning. I could say, I went to the golf course and worked on my swing. If I made 40 golf swings on the course, what if none of them were good reps because I couldn't get any feedback? What if I regressed? 
    • I found it odd that both Drs. (Raymond Prior and Greg Rose) in their separate videos gave the same exact math problem (23 x 12), and both made the point of comparing block practice to solving the same exact math problem (23 x 12) over and over again. But I've made the point that when you are learning your multiplication tables… you do a bunch of similar multiplications over and over again. You do 7 x 8, then 9 x 4, then 3 x 5, then 2 x 6, and so on. So, I think when golf instructors talk about block practice, they're really not understanding what it actually is, and they're assuming that someone trying to kinda do the same thing is block practice, but when Dr. Raymond Prior said on my podcast that what I was describing was variable practice… then… well, that changes things. It changes the results of everything you've heard about how "block" practice is bad (or ineffective).
    • Day 121 12-11 Practice session this morning. Slowing the swing down. 3/4 swings, Getting to lead side better, trying to feel more in sync with swing. Hit foam balls. Good session overall. 
    • Wordle 1,636 3/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜🟨 🟨⬜🟩⬜⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • Wordle 1,636 5/6 🟨⬜⬜⬜🟨 ⬜🟨🟨⬜⬜ ⬜⬜⬜🟨🟩 ⬜🟨⬜⬜🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.