Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
juanrjackson

Bounce on 60 degree wedge?

6 posts in this topic

I have a Cleveland 60 degree wedge with a 8 degree bounce. Cleveland calls that "low bounce". They have a "standard bounce" that is 12 degree bounce.

I researched some of the other brand name wedges & some of them have a standard bounce with only 8 degrees.

Is there a standard for bounce in a 60 degree wedge & what is the pro/cons of having a 12 degree over a 8 degree bounce?

Thanks!
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Want to get rid of this advertisement? Sign up (or log in) today! It's free!

Well everyones "standard" is going to be different. So no there is no standard between different brands. The pros of 12 over 8.. .12 will be easier to play out of the sand and maybe thick rough. Cons, it will be harder to play off of tight lies. I prefer the smallest amount of bounce possible for my 60 degree.. this is why I havent changed from the CG12 to the CG15.. i have 4 degrees in my CG12 and they do not offer it in the CG15.
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In addition to mrt10x's comments, since 60* lofts are already harder to hit, extra bounce can make flop-style shots with them just that more difficult. You want to get the club face under the ball for clean contact and the harder that is to do, the more likely you are to forehead the ball (or such).

From your signature, it looks like you have a sand wedge, so you don't need the extra bounce to help it double as a sand wedge.
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Club designer Ralph Maltby has a thorough article on wedges, and wedge bounce.
http://www.ralphmaltby.com/50

One key Maltby idea: Rated bounce (listed on club) and effective bounce are not always the same.

Hope this helps.
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I wouldn't go with higher than 10-11 degree for 60* as you already have sand wedge.
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • 2016 TST Partners

    GAME Golf
    PING Golf
    Lowest Score Wins
  • Posts

    • I'll answer your question with another question: If you drop the 3H, what would you hit for a 215 yard shot, or even a 210 or 205 yard shot? Are you comfortable gripping down on your 4-wood to cut distance off of it by that much? I personally don't see much issue with keeping the 3H in the bag since it isn't actually hurting anything. You say the other alternative is to drop the 4-wood, but why do you feel that you must drop anything at all? It's okay to have a 10 yard gap. If it really concerns you, though, I would think that the best way to go would be to swap from a 4-wood to a 3-wood. This would increase the gap between your 3H and the next longer club without affecting the gap between the 3 and 4 hybrid, which seems to be a number you like better for a gap. I'm just a little confused why you'd drop down to 13 clubs if the hybrid isn't costing you strokes. I know I find hybrids easier to hit than a wood that I'm trying to hit shorter than usual. I absolutely hate to hit a 3/4 3-wood to cover the cap between a full 3-wood and my 3-iron, but the number for a 3/4 3-wood is such a rare distance that I'd much rather have consistent gaps up through a 3-iron than a big jump from a 4i to a 3H. In my case a 3H would hurt my game, but it doesn't seem like yours is doing you any harm and could be protecting you from an awkward 4 wood shot.
    • This might not be the most helpful for balls and gloves (though I do see golf ball deals pop up at least once a week), but golfwrx's classified section is a great place to get deals on a lot of stuff. I got my AD-DI shaft there for $130, along with my KBS shafts from 3-LW for another $150 for the set. The AD-DI was used for a week (didn't have a mark) and the KBS shafts clearly only ever had a grip installed on the 7-iron. Good deals there, at least from what I've found, but mostly on clubs and shafts (though they do have golf balls in their classifieds every so often).  The nice part about that is they also have a WTB forum, where you post what you want and people come to you. That's actually what I did for the iron shafts. I posted about what I wanted and I had about 7 responses to choose from within 24 hours, so it's pretty active. For golf balls other than ProV1's that would be your best bet for finding them.
    • Are you sure?  I can barely see you!
    • Hi guys, I know how this is going to sound (Oh no, Shane's asking another set make-up/gap analysis question. Ahhhhhhh! Let's run and hide!) But it's a very valid question... I hit my 3 hybrid pretty well, (I finally stopped pulling it) but I believe it's too close in distance to my 4-wood (225 vs 215). My 4-hybrid is around 200 ish... ( I have a little gap down to the 5-iron... frankly because I just don't hit it much) would I be safe to drop the 3-hybrid?  I thought of carrying both a 5h and a 5i to fix the "gapping issue" but I usually just grip down on the 4h when I'm between the two... I understand it drops me to 13 clubs; but the other alternative is to drop the 4- wood but that creates too much of a gap.
    • Things I do when the pace is slow: Take more time on my shot Engage in casual conversation Look around for lost balls Doodle around, looking nonchalant Stare at the front group, trying to use force to move them along
  • TST Blog Entries

  • Images

  • Today's Birthdays

  • Blog Entries