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Posted
Ok, so I bought an r580XD a month or so ago. Its a regular stiffness 10.5 degree loft. It felt good in the store and all, and i think i'm hitting it fairly well so far.

The other day I was checking out a hybrid 2i and the store i was at had a swingspeed monitor, which was clocking my swingspeed with the 2h as 95 mph consistantly, which the guy there said probably makes my driver swing over 100.

My question is in what way is having a regular stiffness driver shaft hurting my game? Is it just distance, or could it be hurting in other ways (like straightness of ballflight).

Would be a serious letdown for me if it is effecting me badly, considering when I was buying the club i was choosing between a 9.5 degree stiff shaft and the 10.5 degree regular, but ended up getting the 10.5 degree because it was the only one left when i went back the next day.

any ideas would be appreciated.

I'm terrible, but i have fun.

In the Bag:
Taylormade r580XD 10.5° Reg flex
3 + 5 wood - Dunlop graphite shaft parts from a set3-pw - Dunlop set that looks sorta like ping I3's (i'm sorely in need of an upgrade.)LW/SW/GW - Adams black 52, 56, 60 degree wedges.Putter - Ping Karsten Anser 34"Bac...


Posted
It is to my understanding that if you use a shaft that is not quite stiff enough for your swing speed that you will have a tendency to fade/slice the ball more. Correct me if I'm wrong.

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Posted
It is to my understanding that if you use a shaft that is not quite stiff enough for your swing speed that you will have a tendency to fade/slice the ball more. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I think that's backwards. Too stiff tends to mean you leave shots low and right. Too weak is high and left.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
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Posted
As long as you're not consistently hooking it or missing fairways on the left (assuming you're a rightee), don't worry about it. There's a lot of variation between different brands and shafts as to what an R and an S is. And the R will probably give you better distance.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
from my experience the only thing that really happens when you are using a shaft that is too weak is that you either push the ball, fade it, or slice it. This is caused by the shaft being still extremely flexed at impact... however... a looser shaft may help you temo so if you have a tendancy to leave it right then try out a stiffer shaft... if not then i think that you should be okay... but this is without looking at your ball flight and swing...

hope this helps
Driver: Titleist 983k 9.5 Fujikura Pro 95 Stiff
3 Wood: Taylor Made V Steel Stiff Flex
Hybrids: 2 & 3 Tour Edge Iron Woods X-Stiff Steel
Irons: 4-PW Tour Edge Progressive Irons X-Stiff Steel
Wedges: Taylor Made Fe2O3 56, Cleveland Tour Action 588 60 Low BouncePutter: Ping G5i UG-LE Ball: Bridgestone...

Posted
from my experience the only thing that really happens when you are using a shaft that is too weak is that you either push the ball, fade it, or slice it. This is caused by the shaft being still extremely flexed at impact... however... a looser shaft may help you temo so if you have a tendancy to leave it right then try out a stiffer shaft... if not then i think that you should be okay... but this is without looking at your ball flight and swing...

Actually iacas/Erik got it right (assuming what I have read from Tom Wishon). At impact the shaft is actually flexed opposite the way that most people think. So when you swing a shaft that is too flexible the clubhead is somewhat more lofted with the face pointing a bit more left (for a right handed golfer) causing the ball to go higher and draw.


Posted
i've always been told it matters more how the club is tipped than actaully shafted higher the swing speed you have the stiffer the tip your shaft should have. If your shaft is tipped to weak you will hit fades and draws on your off center shots even when the face comes through square, if it is tipped to stiff you may loose some distance but will gain a lot of control.

correct me if i am off track here

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Posted
i've always been told it matters more how the club is tipped than actaully shafted higher the swing speed you have the stiffer the tip your shaft should have. If your shaft is tipped to weak you will hit fades and draws on your off center shots even when the face comes through square, if it is tipped to stiff you may loose some distance but will gain a lot of control.

Here's what I see as a problem with that statement. Tipping a shaft more will affect the feel of the shaft and not every golfer with a high swing speed needs or wants a stiff tip shaft.

In my opinion, tipping a shaft more than the manufacturers recommendation is often an abused practice. Now I'm not against tipping and feel that it's a great method to fine tune a club to a player but that people often try to make the wrong shaft fit by tipping then just getting the right shaft and/or flex to begin with. There are so many factors to consider like Swing Speed, Swing Tempo, Shaft Weight, Torque, Kick Point and Bend Profile to name a few. It's difficult to fit a player with a few blanket statements or assumptions even with these numbers. Then take into consideration the endless shaft and head combinations. If you tip a shaft it will have a few effects 1. Will affect the kickpoint and generally lower the ball flight (One special consideration is the type of head IE Bore-Through or Bore-Thru) Since this end of the shaft is the smallest and most flexible part of the shaft. 2. Will stiffen a shaft because it will leave more of the butt end of the shaft which is the stiffest and heaviest part of the shaft I believe the torque of the shaft and the overall flex will dictate direction more than the tip itself. Also one companies R may be another companies S so you have to first make sure you're comparing the right flexes to start.
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Posted
since making this post, i've had a lot more work with my regular flex shaft driver, and have noticed i get a pretty high launch, and when i'm swinging right, I get pretty damn good distance off of it.

I think i might reshaft it someday to a stiff, but it will most likely be after i've worked a whole lot of other things out of my game. I can deal with less distance if i'm more consistant, which i am currently.

I'm terrible, but i have fun.

In the Bag:
Taylormade r580XD 10.5° Reg flex
3 + 5 wood - Dunlop graphite shaft parts from a set3-pw - Dunlop set that looks sorta like ping I3's (i'm sorely in need of an upgrade.)LW/SW/GW - Adams black 52, 56, 60 degree wedges.Putter - Ping Karsten Anser 34"Bac...


Posted
Most all of the newer high end shafts I've been playing with don't recommend tipping at all. I wanted a stiff Comp NT (untipped) in my Launcher Comp. In his infinite wisdom my club guy bought a "regular" flex and tipped it 1-1/4" (when tipping was not recommended) and said it was in the stiff range on his instrument. It might have been stiff but it played horrible. I was totally disappointed and sold the thing. My new stiff Accuflex is NOT tipped and it is working nicely.

WBL

What's In the Bag
Callaway FTiq Tour i-mix 9.5º with stiff Mitsubishi Rayon Javlnfx 6
Cobra F-Speed LD 3-wood 15.5º with 43" YS Tour AD regCobra Baffler DWS 20º & 23º with Aldila VS Proto HL regPing S59 3-PW with Nippon PRO 950GH stiffTitleist Vokey Spin Milled 56º wedgeInazone B...


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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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