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What Driver Would You Reccommend?


Note: This thread is 5639 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  1. 1. What Driver Would You Reccommend?

    • Taylor Made
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    • Nike
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    • Titleist
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    • Cleveland
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    • Cobra
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    • Callaway
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    • Ping
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    • Adams
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    • Lynx
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    • Other (Specify Below)
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Posted
What Driver Would You Recommend?

I want to purchase a new driver, but I would like to see you guys' preferences so I can check those out while looking to buy one. If possible; please specify the kind of club it is, along with the brand, as well as an approximate price as well.

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Posted
What Driver Would You Recommend?

Just open any random thread and look at drivers listed in people's signatures. Those are probably gonna be what the average poster recommends - the driver they're currently using.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
Just open any random thread and look at drivers listed in people's signatures. Those are probably gonna be what the average poster recommends - the driver they're currently using.

Okay, thank you.

I would just like to check whatever people prefer, so I can check them out at a golf store, and find out my personal preference on that specific one.

Posted
For me it came down to a choice between the Ping G15 and the Callaway Diablo. Most of the reviews I read said these were the two best game improvement drivers on the market so I went out and tried them both. I've always been a Ping player but after demo'ing both drivers I found I simply couldn't justify spending the money for the G15 when the Diablo performed just as well for less than half the price.
My Implements of Destruction (carried in a Hoofer Lite bag):

DRIVER: Big Bertha Diablo 10 degree draw, Aldila regular flex
FAIRWAY WOODS: G2 14 degree 3 wood & 17 degree 5 wood
IRONS: S59 3-PWWEDGES: M/B 54, 58, & 60 degree PUTTER: I Series Anser 4 (or G5i Anser, Anser 2F, or original...

Posted
Okay, thank you.

My favourites are: the MacGregor VIP, Golden Ram (by Ram), Powerbilt Citation, and if I had the money, I'd personally get custom fit for something from Louisville Golf.

Also, check out the PING G10 if you can find any left over.

Mizuno MP600 driver, Cleveland '09 Launcher 3-wood, Callaway FTiz 18 degree hybrid, Cleveland TA1 3-9, Scratch SS8620 47, 53, 58, Cleveland Classic 2 mid-mallet, Bridgestone B330S, Sun Mountain four5.


Posted
For me it came down to a choice between the Ping G15 and the Callaway Diablo. Most of the reviews I read said these were the two best game improvement drivers on the market so I went out and tried them both. I've always been a Ping player but after demo'ing both drivers I found I simply couldn't justify spending the money for the G15 when the Diablo performed just as well for less than half the price.

I think it was probably a whole "paying for the name" kind of thing. But, how much was the G15?

My favourites are: the MacGregor VIP, Golden Ram (by Ram), Powerbilt Citation, and if I had the money, I'd personally get custom fit for something from Louisville Golf.

Okay, thanks, I have been looking into Ping's.


Posted

Okay. This might sound odd and crazy coming from a guy w/ the username, nike_golf, but I've become a TaylorMade DRIVER believer.

I just recently dropped my Machspeed driver for a Superfast.

(I just have to cover it up in my bag w/ a non TaylorMade headcover. Hey, I'm like that)

TM R11/Titleist 910F 15*/ Nike SQ2 20* & 23*/ Nike CCi 5-PW/ Nike SV 52* & 56*/ SC Newport 2 Studio Style 32.5"
Nike 20XIx/Pro V1x


Posted
Okay. This might sound odd and crazy coming from a guy w/ the username, nike_golf, but I've become a TaylorMade DRIVER believer.

At first when I saw your username as it is, I figured you would suggest a Nike before I actually read it; lol. I am starting to be a Taylor Made driver fan as well. I like the new R9 SuperTri, but I am not trying to spend $400 either.


Posted
I'm a big TaylorMade guy and I'm thinking about getting a new driver to replace my R580 XD which is pretty old at this point. One of the issues I have with the current TaylorMade drivers however is that they are so damn long, especially the Burners. I don't want to have to cut the shaft down.

Posted
I'm a big TaylorMade guy and I'm thinking about getting a new driver to replace my R580 XD which is pretty old at this point. One of the issues I have with the current TaylorMade drivers however is that they are so damn long, especially the Burners. I don't want to have to cut the shaft down.

Oh, alright. I didn't notice the shafts were long until you posted this.

I was looking at the Taylor Made Burners and they look nice, and I was hitting with them as well. They are actually, pretty good!

Posted
What Driver Would You Recommend?

I was just at Dick's Sporting Goods after taking in some lessons. I see that they had a special going on for a Hagen AWS driver for $159.00 and you get an AWS Hybrid & AWS Fairway for free. Don't know much about them but anytime you get clubs for free or 1/2 price then I'm all over it.

I bought my Maxfli C3 square driver for $100 and the guy gave me the woods for 1/2 off of $79 before there was any deals on them. I later went back a few weeks later and picked up a Maxfli C3 Bullet 10.5 driver and got a second one for free. I'm a rookie and didn't know what to expect with square vs bullet. I wasn't about to take a swing in the booth having never swung a club 3 or so weeks ago. I picked out a 9.5 with a stiff shaft as my freebie. I see they currently have the buy 2 for $100 deal going on but both stores I stopped at the Maxfli racks were pretty thinned out. I've been using the 10.5 regular flex and have been slowly getting the feel for the big stick. The lessons helped a ton. Using the range balls, I can get them out to around 225 yards with an approx 3/4 swing. I did measure one the other day with a SkyCaddie on a par 5 and it came out to 240 yards. They do make a louder noise at contact then other clubs at the driving range if that is bothersome to you. Some of the specs on C3's are: Flex - S Wt. 60kg Butt Stiffness 274 Mid Stiffness 7.1 Tip Stifness 27 Tip Parallel 4.0" Tip OD .335" Flex - R Butt Stiffness 254 Mid Stiffness 6.3 Tip Stiffness 23 same for other specs Nearing the end of season so things gotta go and you can get some great deals on the lower tiered stuff.

Driver:  :nike:  Vapor Pro 9.5°  Wood & Hybrids : :nike:Covert Tour 13°, 18° & 21°
Irons & Wedges:
  :nike:  Covert 2.0  5i - AW,  :titleist:   56-14F,  60-07S
Putter:     :titleist:Newport Select
Balls:  :bridgestone: B330-RX


Posted
I was just at Dick's Sporting Goods after taking in some lessons. I see that they had a special going on for a Hagen AWS driver for $159.00 and you get an AWS Hybrid & AWS Fairway for free. Don't know much about them but anytime you get clubs for free or 1/2 price then I'm all over it.

I'm not really a huge fan of the square drivers. I used a square Nike one, and I just don't like the head of it, because for me; it's more of a hassle than anything because you have to be standing a certain way, etc.

Titleist 975D

I've never really tried Titleist drivers yet. I should though.


Posted
Currently have a Taylormade R9 Supertri and love it, but you mentioned you do not want to spend the 400 dollars for it. Before my Supertri I had an '07 TM burner which I loved. I tried the '08 Burner as well, but did not find it anything special. I used the G5 for a couple of years in high school and really had success with it. I tried a friends i15 before buying my Supertri, but with an X-stiff shaft in it, I never got a good feel for it.

I really liked my G5, which I think is one of the best drivers made in recent years. I have hit each Ping driver after the G5 and couldn't tell much of a difference. If you could find a G5 in nice condition it would be much cheaper then a G15 or G10 and still be a very good driver.

Just my experiences, in the end its all up to which combination of driver and shaft works best for you.

In The Bag

Driver: Taylormade Supertri 9.5

3 Wood: Titleist 909 F2 

Hybrid: Adams 

Irons: 3-PW Mizuno MP64

Wedges: Vokey SM2 56* and 60*

Putter: Scotty Cameron Studio Select Fastback #1


Posted
I'm not really a huge fan of the square drivers. I used a square Nike one, and I just don't like the head of it, because for me; it's more of a hassle than anything because you have to be standing a certain way, etc.

The C3 Bullet driver has the "traditional" head. I just picked one up because I wasn't sure on the square head thing either. So far, the square heads is all I've hit. I was under the impression that they would be easier for a beginner to hit accurately. It probably is just a marketing gimmick to get people to buy more clubs. Hey, it worked! lol

Driver:  :nike:  Vapor Pro 9.5°  Wood & Hybrids : :nike:Covert Tour 13°, 18° & 21°
Irons & Wedges:
  :nike:  Covert 2.0  5i - AW,  :titleist:   56-14F,  60-07S
Putter:     :titleist:Newport Select
Balls:  :bridgestone: B330-RX


Posted
Currently have a Taylormade R9 Supertri and love it, but you mentioned you do not want to spend the 400 dollars for it. Before my Supertri I had an '07 TM burner which I loved. I tried the '08 Burner as well, but did not find it anything special. I used the G5 for a couple of years in high school and really had success with it. I tried a friends i15 before buying my Supertri, but with an X-stiff shaft in it, I never got a good feel for it.

Okay, thank you.

Trust me, if I had $400-$500 to spend on an R9, I would be all over that, lol. I have been looking at the Taylor Made Burner's and I like them. It helps that they're not as expensive as the R9 is though.
The C3 Bullet driver has the "traditional" head. I just picked one up because I wasn't sure on the square head thing either. So far, that is all I've hit.

Yeah, I tried a square head one; and I wasn't a huge fan of it.


Posted
My favourites are: the MacGregor VIP, Golden Ram (by Ram), Powerbilt Citation, and if I had the money, I'd personally get custom fit for something from Louisville Golf.

A clubmaker in Cooperstown, NY made me a Louisville Golf Classic 50's 5 wood w/ DGS100 and grip of choice for $50 last summer. If I could get a driver and 3 wood at those prices I'd snatch 'em up.


Posted
it's more of a hassle than anything because you have to be standing a certain way, etc.

??? I don't see and have never heard how a square driver makes you "stand a certain way". That being said-I also don't care for 'em. The Maxfli C3 driver referenced is a nice stick-and I'm a big fan of the stock ProForce V2 shaft. I voted Titleist cause their drivers just do it for me, currently have 3. Look for a used 907, 905, or 983 (or even a NOS 907). My 983E 8.5* is still my longest driver when hit on the screws, great sound too.

Nothing against TaylorMade quality, but the majority of their drivers, especially the Burner, are low on my recommendation list unless you're a more accomplished golfer. They put extra length, super light, whippy shafts in them so people will hit them a couple yards further, because distance sells. You'd be much better served with a 44 or 45 inch driver shaft-regular or stiff flex, that weighs 65-80 grams, and keeps the ball in play.

Note: This thread is 5639 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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