Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5739 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
So I have come to the realization that my driver/4-wood/hybrid shafts are all too long for me (basically, when I choke down an inch on the clubs, they go straight and I don't hit the ground behind the ball any more). I think I am borderline on stiff shafts (driver SS 97 or so) and I wanted to know if it was possible to have these shafts cut down an inch and not make the shafts much stiffer.

Posted
not that cutting yoru shaft is a terrible idea...but maybe you should worry about your swing consistency before you start altering your equipment to see if it makes it any better.

at your handicap, a shorter shaft isn't the problem.

DST Tour 9.5 Diamana Whiteboard
909F3 15* 3 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
909F3 18* 5 FW stock Aldila Voodoo
'09 X-Forged 3-PW Project-X 6.0 Flighted
CG15 56* X-Tour 60* Abaco


Posted
How tall are you ?

I am 5'4" with my shoes on and always get an inch taken off of all my clubs.

Driver: Ping G25

3w - Ping K15

3h - TEE Trilogy

4h - TEE Trilogy

5h - TEE Trilogy

Irons: Ping G25 6-LW

Putter: Odyssey White Ice D.A.R.T
Bag: Nike SQ Tour

Optics: Bushnell Tour V2 Slope

Shoes: True Linkswear


Posted
I just took out a half inch from 45.5" to 45" of my Burner TP driver a month ago. More solid shots. it feels little (very little) stiffer than it was. 1" shortening will feel more stiffer for sure. But shorten it gets, you can attack more aggressively :)

Golf: Agony & Love over 3 Generations


Posted
at your handicap, a shorter shaft isn't the problem.

Correct, however having a properly fitted shaft will certainly help in solving swing problems. If his shaft is too long for him, why not get it adjusted no matter his handicap?

Driver: Nike Ignite 10.5 w/ Fujikura Motore F1
2H: King Cobra
4H: Nickent 4DX
5H: Adams A3
6I 7I 8I 9I PW: Mizuno mp-57Wedges: Mizuno MP T-10 50, 54, 58 Ball: random


Posted
I believe if you take an inch off of those clubs it will definitely make the shaft noticeably stiffer.

Putter first 
:titleist: newport 2 oil can
:titleist: 58* SM4
:titleist: 54* SM4
:titleist: 50* SM4
:titleist: 4-pw AP2 project X 6.0
:ping: i20 9.5 TFC Stiff


Posted
The only thing you gotta worry about with cutting clubs down is swing weight.
As for stiffness of a shaft I have dabbled with all sizes in my irons and could never tell a diffence in flex. With my drivers I have all sized also, one at 45.5,44.5 and 43.5. With graphite you usually can tell that your shaft gets soft. So with my new driver that i cut to 43.5 i took 3/4 of the tip and the rest off the butt end and its perfect. Though when you cut the tip i would start with a weaker flex as cutting the tip will definetly make the shaft stiff) so now my regular flex shaft plays at a stiff flex from me cutting the tip of a Regular flex.

but you should be fine with an inch of your driver and woods by just hacking it off the butt end and placing a little leadtape or tungsten powder to replace the SW or take it to the shop and have them hotmelt or install tips.

For irons if you are taking of an inch i would probably cut 1/4 of the tip and 3/4 off the butt end to maintain the current flex. but its all dabbling. No one who i have talked to who are club builders can tell me any concrete information to figure out how the flexes will work.

Its costly if it doesn't work but man is it fun to build clubs.

Bag
Sumo 5900 9.5d
Sumo 3 & 5 Woods Pro launch shafts
Victory Red Split cavity 4-pw
Victory Red Wedges 52/10,56/14/60,10 White hot Putter / Balls


Note: This thread is 5739 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • Hello Golfing Buddies, It has been awhile since I posted but I am the Retired Old Man that asked for advice because I suffered two "T.I.A.'s about switching from playing right handed to playing left handed.  I purchased a Callaway Edge Left handed golf clubs. I changed the grips to oversize grips.  Well, two weeks ago and still at 79 years old, I shot a 44 and 47 on a small course in my hometown.  I am currently changing my shafts from regular flex to Senior flex.  So, you can see' it can be done! So, you other old timers; get with the program! Blessings to all of you. Retired Old Man (Terry Warner)  
    • Haiduk - Archdevil        
    • Probably since the golfer has to swing the club back and up. The hands have to move back and up. You can feel them go back and up just by turning the shoulders and bending the right arm, because it brings your hands towards your right shoulder.  The difference is if you maintain width or not. Less width means a shorter feeling swing path so the more you need to lift the arms. Being as someone who gets the right arm bend at 110+ degrees, it's 100% a timing issue. I am use to like a 1.5+ second backswing. It probably should be like 1 second at most. Half a second or more will feel like an eternity. I have had swings where I keep my right arm straighter and I am still trying to time the downswing based on the old tempo.  Ideally, for me, it is probably going to be a much quicker and shorter (in duration) backswing, while keeping the right elbow straighter. Which also means more hinging to get swing length without over swinging. 
    • Wordle 1,789 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟨🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • I'm currently recuperating from surgery, so no golf, but have been thinking about this quite a bit. This and the don't overbend the right arm thing. It's hard for me to even pose the position, so I'm not 100% sure, but I feel like it's impossible to have the right humerus along the shirt seam and not overbend your right arm, unless your hands are down near your hips. If the left arm is up at or above the shoulder plane and your right arm is bent less than 90 degrees, then your right humerus has to raise or your hands will get pulled apart. Your left hand can't reach your right hand unless either the right upper arm is up or the right arm is overbent. Is that right? If it is, then focusing on not overbending the right arm would force you to raise the humerus. And actually thinking further on it, if you do overbend your right arm, then you're basically forcing your upper arm down or forcing your left arm to bend. Since (for me at least) bending the left arm too much is not something I think I need to worry about, it means that the bend in the trail arm is really the driving force behind what happens to the right humerus. 
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.