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Posted

Anyone have a step by step on how to get old ones out and throw new ones in? bought a set on ebay and the shafts aren't long enough/stiff enough so i bought some shafts to put in em...i know how to do grips so it's not a big deal just shafts i'm a bit...'new' to doing. thanks for your help in advance,

-PG from PA

In my Titleist 2014 9.5" Staff bag:

Cobra Bio+ 9* Matrix White Tie X  - Taylormade SLDR 15* ATTAS 80X - Titleist 910H 19* ATTAS 100X - Taylormade '13 TP MC 4-PW PX 6.5 - Vokey TVD M 50* DG TI X100 - Vokey SM4 55 / Vokey SM5 60* DG TI S400 - Piretti Potenza II 365g


Posted

Check out YouTube....it is easy...bit there is a learning curve for best results.

Driver Wishon 919THI 4 Wood Pure Fit w Accuflex

Ping Rapture hybrid Irons Wishon 770 CFE with Apollo Humps regular Gripmaster rubber grips 4-aw Wedges Ping MB 56 Ping Eye 2 Lob &nbsp ;Mentor Quad putter gripmaster gator grip

Bantam chipper leather grip


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Posted

Originally Posted by weavej2

Check out YouTube....it is easy...bit there is a learning curve for best results.


If you know of some good videos, embed them here.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
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Posted

Learning curve for irons? Irons and wedges are pretty easy assuming everything is steel. I've done several with no problems. Graphite becomes much more problematic... You need a shaft puller if you want to ever use the shaft again.

Let me Google that for you .

The first Golfworks article will work nicely for you.

titleistprov1x |nikeneo |●| callawayx-forged 54/60 |● |mizunoMP68

adamsproblack 3H |●| mizunoMPtitanium5w/3w |●| mizunoMP630FT


Posted


Originally Posted by The Gill

Learning curve for irons? Irons and wedges are pretty easy assuming everything is steel.


Lots of people can put clubs together....some just make a better finished product.

Driver Wishon 919THI 4 Wood Pure Fit w Accuflex

Ping Rapture hybrid Irons Wishon 770 CFE with Apollo Humps regular Gripmaster rubber grips 4-aw Wedges Ping MB 56 Ping Eye 2 Lob &nbsp ;Mentor Quad putter gripmaster gator grip

Bantam chipper leather grip


Posted

Better make sure everything is the same size ie: tip diameter and inside diameter of your hosels. Are the shafts pulls or new? Do they need trimmed to flex (.370p) or just butt trimmed (.355t) after installation?

:tmade: R15 14* Matrix Black Tie 7m3

:adams: Speedline Super S 3w & 5w Matrix Radix HD S VI

:callaway: X-12 4-PW Memphis 10

IONNOVEX  Type S GDT 50*, 54* & 62* Mitsubishi Rayon Kuro Kage Black 80ir

:odyssey: Tri-Ball SRT

-Landon


Posted

First make sure you have the proper shaft, ie, taper or paralel. find a ferrule that closely matches your iron outside diameter, makes things easier for a DIY'er

Removing isn't a problem any more as you most likely do not have pins in the iron heads.  I prefer a welding glove and a torch.  I generally cut off the ferrules first so I don't need clean up much on the heads.  Once the head is removed clean out the bore as well as you can while the head is still hot.  A round wire brush works pretty well in a cordless drill.

Make sure you have the stepping chart for that iron and the flex you wish to be.  after that some gluing weight checking and ferrule finishing.  Finishing the ferrule that is close to the iron o.d. is s imply a matter of shining it up with some acetone and a lint free rag.  Not an easy thing to do well but you can practice on the clubs before you remove them.

Good luck


Posted


Originally Posted by weavej2

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Gill

Learning curve for irons? Irons and wedges are pretty easy assuming everything is steel.

Lots of people can put clubs together....some just make a better finished product.



Outstanding vague statement.

titleistprov1x |nikeneo |●| callawayx-forged 54/60 |● |mizunoMP68

adamsproblack 3H |●| mizunoMPtitanium5w/3w |●| mizunoMP630FT


Posted


I pulled my drivers graphite shaft to shorten it last year. The one mistake I made was not being careful, and letting too much heat (heat gun) hit the shaft, which melted it. Luckily that part got cut off.

But with graphite at least, don't let any direct heat hit the shaft, or it will melt!

Originally Posted by The Gill

Learning curve for irons? Irons and wedges are pretty easy assuming everything is steel. I've done several with no problems. Graphite becomes much more problematic... You need a shaft puller if you want to ever use the shaft again.

Let me Google that for you.

The first Golfworks article will work nicely for you.



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Posted

You are gonna need some Tools that aint cheap.   If you want to save money, just bring it to Clubmakers in your area.

Some basic tools are Heat Gun, Circular Saw (7 inch), Some epoxy, a long Ruler about 2 meters and lastly a shaft Puller (pretty expensive tool).

IF you don't have all of those, you are not ready to do some Re-shafting by yourself.

Whats in my Golf Bag:
Driver: Nike Sumo 5000
5 Wood: Mizuno MP-001
Iron: Mizuno MX-950 5-PW
Wedge: Cobra FP 60 degrePutter: Odyssey 2-BallBall: Yellow balls

Posted


Originally Posted by ronaldkuntoro

You are gonna need some Tools that aint cheap.   If you want to save money, just bring it to Clubmakers in your area.

Some basic tools are Heat Gun, Circular Saw (7 inch), Some epoxy, a long Ruler about 2 meters and lastly a shaft Puller (pretty expensive tool).

IF you don't have all of those, you are not ready to do some Re-shafting by yourself.

I think, that's quite a bold statement.

What would you need a 2meter ruler for?

To me, for reshafting clubs, depending on the specific work, these tools are necessary:

1.) Replacing iron shafts (new shafts already have the right length, like most tapertipped shafts)

- heat gun

- epoxy

- round wire brush

- sand paper

(- new ferrules)

Apply heat to the hosel, until the old epoxy melts, remove the head, clean out the hosel, sand the tip of the new shaft, apply epoxy, put together shaft/ferrule/head, let dry - DONE

If you have to trim your shafts by yourself you will also need a small hacksaw, but better would be a steel pipe cutter - costs about 5-6 bucks - and a regular tape measure will do, also.

In all, if you just want to replace your iron shafts, it really, really cheap to do it.

2. Replacing graphite shafts

- heat gun

- epoxy

- round wire brush

- sand paper

- selfmade shaft puller (about 10,- - 15,-)

To cut the graphite shafts, I'd suggest a fine hacksaw again, works really well.

A selfmade shaft puller is not really hard to do (search on golfwrx for "diy shaft puller", the website is down ATM).

I don't have a pic of mine, but it took me about 2 or 3 hours to build it (with parts I already had at home).

greetings

michi

"I have my own golf course and Par is whatever I say it is. There's a hole which is a Par13 and yesterday I damn nearly birdied that sucker." - Willie Nelson


Posted


Originally Posted by mihi4

Quote:

Originally Posted by ronaldkuntoro

You are gonna need some Tools that aint cheap.   If you want to save money, just bring it to Clubmakers in your area.

Some basic tools are Heat Gun, Circular Saw (7 inch), Some epoxy, a long Ruler about 2 meters and lastly a shaft Puller (pretty expensive tool).

IF you don't have all of those, you are not ready to do some Re-shafting by yourself.

I think, that's quite a bold statement.

What would you need a 2meter ruler for?

To me, for reshafting clubs, depending on the specific work, these tools are necessary:

1.) Replacing iron shafts (new shafts already have the right length, like most tapertipped shafts)

- heat gun

- epoxy

- round wire brush

- sand paper

(- new ferrules)

Apply heat to the hosel, until the old epoxy melts, remove the head, clean out the hosel, sand the tip of the new shaft, apply epoxy, put together shaft/ferrule/head, let dry - DONE

If you have to trim your shafts by yourself you will also need a small hacksaw, but better would be a steel pipe cutter - costs about 5-6 bucks - and a regular tape measure will do, also.

In all, if you just want to replace your iron shafts, it really, really cheap to do it.

2. Replacing graphite shafts

- heat gun

- epoxy

- round wire brush

- sand paper

- selfmade shaft puller (about 10,- - 15,-)

To cut the graphite shafts, I'd suggest a fine hacksaw again, works really well.

A selfmade shaft puller is not really hard to do (search on golfwrx for "diy shaft puller", the website is down ATM).

I don't have a pic of mine, but it took me about 2 or 3 hours to build it (with parts I already had at home).

greetings

michi


The 2 meter ruler, of course, for measuring the desired CLub length.

Don't EVER use a hacksaw to cut graphite shafts cause they will damage the  shaft.

2 Hours to build a golf club???  that's bit too long.......  should be just 20 minutes max and then you leave the epoxy to dry.

Whats in my Golf Bag:
Driver: Nike Sumo 5000
5 Wood: Mizuno MP-001
Iron: Mizuno MX-950 5-PW
Wedge: Cobra FP 60 degrePutter: Odyssey 2-BallBall: Yellow balls

Posted

Aright, here's the deal: i have clubs coming to me, (nike forged blades in pristine condition) that are standard up and length. I also have rifle 6.0 px pulls that are on the way (less than 10 rounds, at my lengths already so no  trimming), so i was more concerned about technique if there is any. I have a torch, saw/pipe cutter, brush, etc. for the job. Is the epoxy with glass beads a good investment? also, (a bit off topic) what kind of bending could i do in the shaft and still be 'safe' ? loft: 2 degrees strong/weak too much? lie: 2 degrees up from standard too much?  I'm in the situation of going back to a set of heads that i used to own and thoroughly loved, however couldn't find a set in my specs 2* up and 1.25" long in my size, so i'm doing what i can to get great set back. I know how to regrip clubs, looking to put new shafts in these guys and hopefully take them to a local clubfitter whom i know well to bend em for me, just looking to do some preliminary know-how and shafting before i see him. Thanks alot for the info already and any more is GREATLY appreciated.

-Paul G from PA

In my Titleist 2014 9.5" Staff bag:

Cobra Bio+ 9* Matrix White Tie X  - Taylormade SLDR 15* ATTAS 80X - Titleist 910H 19* ATTAS 100X - Taylormade '13 TP MC 4-PW PX 6.5 - Vokey TVD M 50* DG TI X100 - Vokey SM4 55 / Vokey SM5 60* DG TI S400 - Piretti Potenza II 365g


Posted


Originally Posted by Gioguy21

Aright, here's the deal: i have clubs coming to me, (nike forged blades in pristine condition) that are standard up and length. I also have rifle 6.0 px pulls that are on the way (less than 10 rounds, at my lengths already so no  trimming), so i was more concerned about technique if there is any.



SO I am concerned already...you say the shafts are at your lengths already...not all hosel depths are the same,  so what is pulled from a club at 36 may work out to be 34.5 or 36.5 in your clubs...then again maybe not.  Club building is fun, not that hard but why spend all that money on a pristine set of Nikes only to fudge it up.  What about swingweight, shaft alignment etc...keep doing your research and I am sure it will be fine.

Driver Wishon 919THI 4 Wood Pure Fit w Accuflex

Ping Rapture hybrid Irons Wishon 770 CFE with Apollo Humps regular Gripmaster rubber grips 4-aw Wedges Ping MB 56 Ping Eye 2 Lob &nbsp ;Mentor Quad putter gripmaster gator grip

Bantam chipper leather grip


Posted

make a spine finder and work on FLOing them, works for irons too!  youtube- "spine shaft FLO"

KZG Gemini 9* Aldila Proto By You
Leyland COPlasma 3wd
Golfsmith Q4 19*
Louisville HyLofter 24*
Wishon 770CFEs w/Nippons
Alpha P2 wedges
Louisville EWP putter


Posted


Originally Posted by tweaky

make a spine finder and work on FLOing them, works for irons too!  youtube- "spine shaft FLO"



2 different things of course. You can't get a true FLO with any old rubber clamp and a vice.

:tmade: R15 14* Matrix Black Tie 7m3

:adams: Speedline Super S 3w & 5w Matrix Radix HD S VI

:callaway: X-12 4-PW Memphis 10

IONNOVEX  Type S GDT 50*, 54* & 62* Mitsubishi Rayon Kuro Kage Black 80ir

:odyssey: Tri-Ball SRT

-Landon


Posted

Originally Posted by weavej2

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gioguy21

Aright, here's the deal: i have clubs coming to me, (nike forged blades in pristine condition) that are standard up and length. I also have rifle 6.0 px pulls that are on the way (less than 10 rounds, at my lengths already so no  trimming), so i was more concerned about technique if there is any.

SO I am concerned already...you say the shafts are at your lengths already...not all hosel depths are the same,  so what is pulled from a club at 36 may work out to be 34.5 or 36.5 in your clubs...then again maybe not.  Club building is fun, not that hard but why spend all that money on a pristine set of Nikes only to fudge it up.  What about swingweight, shaft alignment etc...keep doing your research and I am sure it will be fine.


to help relieve concern, there are 12 (yes 12) shafts in the set and of lengths that are longer than i need so i can always trim them.

In my Titleist 2014 9.5" Staff bag:

Cobra Bio+ 9* Matrix White Tie X  - Taylormade SLDR 15* ATTAS 80X - Titleist 910H 19* ATTAS 100X - Taylormade '13 TP MC 4-PW PX 6.5 - Vokey TVD M 50* DG TI X100 - Vokey SM4 55 / Vokey SM5 60* DG TI S400 - Piretti Potenza II 365g


Posted


Originally Posted by LBlack14

Quote:

Originally Posted by tweaky

make a spine finder and work on FLOing them, works for irons too!  youtube- "spine shaft FLO"

2 different things of course. You can't get a true FLO with any old rubber clamp and a vice.


i'll look into the spine issue and talk to the guy at the shop about it. I want it done right, the first time.

In my Titleist 2014 9.5" Staff bag:

Cobra Bio+ 9* Matrix White Tie X  - Taylormade SLDR 15* ATTAS 80X - Titleist 910H 19* ATTAS 100X - Taylormade '13 TP MC 4-PW PX 6.5 - Vokey TVD M 50* DG TI X100 - Vokey SM4 55 / Vokey SM5 60* DG TI S400 - Piretti Potenza II 365g


Note: This thread is 5235 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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