Wedge trouble from the fairway?

[mlf16507]

Here are some more pictures showing forward shaft lean.

http://us.mc1127.mail.yahoo.com/mc/showMessage?sMid=4&fid;=Inbox&sort;=dateℴ=down&startMid;=0&filterBy;=&.rand=1215577066&midIndex;=4∣=1_14031_AOCkiGIAAJfNTYmujgZuf1XBSE0&fromId;=andrew@andrewricegolf.com&m;=1_42926_AOGkiGIAAPpFTY0a4wjcgisSqok,1_43841_AO%2BkiGIAAG3oTY0bnwINwVFJyJY,1_41656_AOKkiGIAAMiQTY0NDQv3YlllUeo,1_5186_AOykiGIAAJeeTYo%2FYAa%2BkTsZdqk,1_14031_AOCkiGIAAJfNTYmujgZuf1XBSE0 ,

[trickymicky69]

"secrets of the short game" by stan utley shows him hitting a sw with 14 degrees of bounce, from the tarmac in a car park

its not the club, you are flipping

ball first then ground, it doesn't matter too much what the lie is like then

[Mr. Desmond]

Also check your lower body dynamics if you're hitting it fat. It could be that on a wedge, you're not as dynamic about getting/staying on the front foot or opening up with the hips dynamically.

[Zeph]

Originally Posted by trickymicky69

"secrets of the short game" by stan utley shows him hitting a sw with 14 degrees of bounce, from the tarmac in a car park

its not the club, you are flipping

ball first then ground, it doesn't matter too much what the lie is like then

You are correct, but Stan hit a pitch shot off the tarmac, using the bounce. Which means he hit the tarmac first with the bounce of the club, then the ball. On most full wedge shots, you want to hit the ball first, where a forward leaning shaft is pretty essential. Bounce does not come into play when you hit the ball first with a forward leaning shaft. You can of course hit a pitch shot with any wedge pretty far, but it involve more timing and that you have the club leaning not so far forward that the bounce is cancelled out, but not so far back that the club skids on the ground and blade the ball.

Draw a line on the grass with something, place the ball on the line and hit it. You should not touch the line when hitting. Make sure you don't put the ball too far forward, middle of the stance is good for a wedge.

Weight forward of course, but not upper body.

Pulling can be a result of the toe digging the heel in the ground and turning the club over, but could also be a result of the arms and hands being too active and rotating. Don't try to "release" the club, rotate it back to square or anything like that.

Holding the right arm flying wedge is a good way to make sure you hit the ball first, this is a good drill:

The right wrist bend on the backswing, make sure you don't throw away that angle, but maintain it on the downswing and allow gravity and centripital force to bring it down. If you by the time of impact have gotten the hands in front of the ball, you are guaranteed hitting it first. Dial down the speed at first to find the proper feeling of it. Start with a little chipping motion, then move up.

Animated (clickable)

Animated (clickable)

[blackxpress]

Don't know if this applies to you but a lot of people make the mistake of thinking they have to help the ball into the air. I hear guys all the time, after hitting a bad wedge shot, say "Didn't get underneath that one." Whenever I hear someone say that I think their philosophy is all wrong. What I'm about to say is true with all iron shots but it's especially critical with short irons and wedges. Your goal is not to slide the club underneath the ball and lift it into the air. Your goal is to hit down on the ball and let the loft of the club do the work. The clubhead does not actually go underneath the ball if you strike it properly. If you hit the ball first, then the ground, the ball will actually be in the air by the time the clubhead strikes the ground and takes a divot.

And, +1 on what other guys have said about overswinging. If you can't hit a SW 100 yds with a smooth swing and good tempo you need to take more club. I learned that lesson the hard way just the other day. I misjudged the distance on a shot when I got out of the cart and pulled out my 60 degree wedge. My partner had already driven away before I checked my GPS and discovered the shot was 72 yds. I know I hit the ball 60 yds with a 60 degree wedge. Instead of waiting for him to come back so I could get the proper club (56 degree wedge) I decided to just try to swing a little harder. Bad decision. I bladed the crap out of it and sent it zipping over the green and out of play. Instead of being on the green laying 3 and putting for par I ended up taking a 7.

[TheBobGuy]

Most amateurs struggle from the fairway with a premium wedge. It's akin to hitting a players blade iron as opposed to a game improvement club. Little room for error. The majority of golfers would be better

served using the wedges built for your set. Usually a wider sole, and more effective bounce which certainly doesn't hurt either.

So, if you can get wedge to match your set, you'll be pleasantly surprised. Hope that helps.

[WUTiger]

Quote:

The majority of golfers would be better

served using the wedges built for your set. Usually a wider sole, and more effective bounce which certainly doesn't hurt either. ...

This all depends. When I switched out irons a couple of years ago, the set I got came with PW as highest-lofted club. PW was OK, but I got a matching AW, and couldn't get any consistent yardage with it.  My pro said I could use specialty wedges, as long as I was willing to practice with them.

Got some CG14s and Callaway X Forged, and they work quite well. What Bob is forgetting is that wedges have short shafts, and are much easier to handle than longer irons. There's no way I would try to play a blade 5i, but a smaller headed CG14 or XForged cut through the rough and greenside fluff nicely, and crisper shots off the fairway than the klunkier stock wedges.

These wedges were the big reason I went from a 24 to a 19 HDCP last season. Just another viewpoint.

[Cut68]

Originally Posted by TheBobGuy

Most amateurs struggle from the fairway with a premium wedge. It's akin to hitting a players blade iron as opposed to a game improvement club. Little room for error. The majority of golfers would be better

served using the wedges built for your set. Usually a wider sole, and more effective bounce which certainly doesn't hurt either.

So, if you can get wedge to match your set, you'll be pleasantly surprised. Hope that helps.

This was my thinking. Actually just bought a send wedge that matches my set for $8 (brand new) on ebay. I will continue to carry my other wedge as well

[TheBobGuy]

... My original comments pertained to fairway approach shots from approximately 100 yards in. If you can hit your PW well, why can't you hit a more lofted sand wedge just as well. Higher and not as far.

Don't get me wrong, specialty wedges have a place such as finesse shots and greenside bunkers. However, don't think you're limited to those clubs out of bunkers. Try laying open a PW or 9i for say a

20 or 30 yard bunker shot. You'll be amazed at the results.

[bigbear43]

What size bounce is your wedge? The softer the turf the more bounce/ the harder less. If you have a high bounce 60 wedge you'll have to down on the ball contacting the ball first then the turf otherwise the bounce of the club will not allow you to make the proper contact from hard turf