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  1. 1. Blades or Cavities?

    • Forged blade
      44
    • Forged cavity
      42
    • Cast cavity
      16


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Lately, this has been a big issue. Whether to get blades or not. However, now with the introduction of forged cavities in the last couple of years, there are more options. Vote for your favorite category, and then explain why.

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Why, you haven't voted dave!

I chose "forged cavity" not necessarily because I have them, but because I think that in the right design they can offer a lot of "best of both worlds."

I grew up and learned to play with blades. Now I play 10-year-old Titleist DCI 962bs - the "b" means "blade" and they're cavity back clubs that feel more like a blade than any other cavity-back club I've hit.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

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My first set of clubs was a set of Ping Zing 2's and the larger more forgiving head definately helped me make solid contact more often and helped with a lot of positive reinforcement. If I had tried to learn on blades I probably would have quit.

However, once my handicap started dropping, I became frustrated with the lack of control I was getting. As is usually the case it wasn't the club's fault but mine. Since I wasn't consistently hitting the sweet spot of the club my distance control and accuracy were poor. So I picked up a used Mizuno blade 7 Iron and started hitting it at the driving range. Although it was a harsh learning curve the lack of forgiveness helped tremendously and forced me to make really consistant contact and focus on what is going on at impact. I also learned that I was losing some distance due to the fact that I was hitting shots slightly fat which I didn't realize due to the wider sole of the cavity backs. But the trenches I was digging with the blade made it clear that I was a touch too steep on the down swing.

Now I'm playing with Titleist 690 MB's and I love them. I'm especially proud of the quarter sized wear spot I've hit into the face! I've also come to like the visual appeal of the smaller head and thin top line. Although I can't reccomend one or the other since everyone's swing and style of play are different, all i can say is blades have helped my game more than any other purchase I've made.

Alrighty, here is my vote and my reason.
I recently purchased a set of Mizuno MP 33's, and I couldn't be happier with them. So I go forged blades, since you just can't match the precision, feel, and workability with any other clubs. I do love the Hogan Apex FTX's though, and well as the Titliest 690 MB and CB, and the Hogan Apex 50. And also the half cavity Mizuno MP 30. But yeah, I'm a traditionalist, and I love blades.

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I'm guessing that your handicap index isn't 36 as stated in your profile, then, if you use blades and talk about workability. Might wanna fix that...

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

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Oh, I haven't even looked at my profile yet. Yeah, I'm not a 36, so I'd better fix that. I don't have an official handicap, but I'm guessing mine is around a 10 or lower. But I really can't say for sure...

I suppose that a forged blade would be the clubs that I would benefit from the most. I'm not consistent enough yet to even consider blades. If I keep playing once or twice a week I might be able to appreciate a blade after a while.

Jeff

10.5° Callaway FT-iZ Tour

18°, 20°, 23° Adams Idea Pro Prototype Hybrid

4-9 Titleist 690.CB
48° Titleist Vokey Tour Nickel
54°, 58° Titleist Vokey Tour Oil Can

Scotty Cameron NP2, 33"

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I've got my eyes on a set of Titleist 680s . The trouble is there's nowhere to hit them, and hitting a few six-irons in the 690 may not really tell me how much I like 'em. Hrm.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

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hitting a few six-irons in the 690 may not really tell me how much I like 'em. Hrm.

Before I bought my 690's I demoed the 670, 680, and 690. All three feel pretty distinct, especially the 680 which is weighted higher than the 690. The 680's head is noticeably smaller than the 690 with less length. Although the 680's have less offset, the difference is .01 of an inch or less I think, pretty close to negligible. Feel at impact was about the same, but ball flight was much flatter which I personally don't like. It's not a substitue for hitting them, but I hope that gives you a starting point.


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That is what I love about my Mizuno MP 33's. When I'm playing good, the ball goes high!

Thing is, everything I read about pros or good, good golfers is that they hit the ball unbelievably low, with tremendous spin. I hit the ball really high, and am working on bringing my ball flight down. More distance, more control, more spin.

Or so I've read.

Erik J. Barzeski —  I knock a ball. It goes in a gopher hole. 🏌🏼‍♂️
Director of Instruction Golf Evolution • Owner, The Sand Trap .com • AuthorLowest Score Wins
Golf Digest "Best Young Teachers in America" 2016-17 & "Best in State" 2017-20 • WNY Section PGA Teacher of the Year 2019 :edel: :true_linkswear:

Check Out: New Topics | TST Blog | Golf Terms | Instructional Content | Analyzr | LSW | Instructional Droplets

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Believe me, that's wrong. Check out some of the pro's on tour. They hit the ball way high. And I mean waaaay!!! I have a low ball flight, and I know that the higher I hit it, the better spin I get and the more accurate I get. That is why on my good days, the ball flies higher, and I score better. But then again, I could be backwards...

Let me tell you a story. I was playing with a college golfer one day. He was either a very low single diget, or a scratch. He was playing Mizuno MP 33's. I had snatched a set of Ben Hogan CFT's out of the proshop, since I wanted to demo them. (Remember I work at a course) It was about 170 to the pin on this par three. Nasty bunker right in front. I took a six. I'm a bit of a short, low hitter. Well, I watch him throw a high ball about 10 feet from the pin. High as could be. He probably hit a 7 iron, but it was amazingly high. (BTW, I did hit six to about 8 feet. But waaaay lower than him)

So, the point of the story is, I've seen some awesome golfers who can put the ball right on top of the pin, and still hit the ball high. And yes, he hit just about every iron that close.

I really think that trajectory control is something that's gotten lost with a lot of golfers. So many people just want the equipment to take care of their trajectory for them and tend to forget about how to control it. A well struck cut will climb high in the air and land softer than a feather, while a draw is low penetrating and just runs forever. An easier swing with less spin keeps the ball nice and low while a harder one with a lot of spin can cause it to balloon up really high.

In the end I think it's worthwhile for any golfer to work hard at the range and try and be able to hit any shot (high, low, draw, fade, punch) with any club in their bag. Trajectory of equipment is all personal preference and should complement your style of play. Take a look at Golf Digest's In the Bag and you can see the different lofts and lies the pros use. Davis Love III uses a 7.5 Titleist's 983 E to negate his high spin/launch style while Vijay uses a 10.5 degree R7 to help him get the ball up in the air. In the end all that matters is that the ball ends up in the cup not the path it takes.


Sorry to disappoint those that go with the high theory...but the professionals for their standard shot want a mid-low trajectory because it is less affected by wind. The ability to hit the ball high is very important but that is not the desirable ball flight for most conditions. Keep in mind, the higher the ball flight, the more spin affects the landing and therefore, the ball can spin back much more than desired (i.e. you can back a ball up with 1/2 the spin of a lower flight ball just by hitting it way high).

We have an assistant who has some money to play and has just finished some instruction with the #1 LPGA Instructor in the country and he was hitting the ball waaaaay high but was still scoring under par MOST of the time. After an hour and a half, the biggest thing she is getting him to do is hit the ball lower. By getting him to "cover" the ball more at impact, he can hit a lot more shots and create that bowed wrist that is desirable at impact.

  • 2 weeks later...
I've my second combo set now (first was the Nike's) and I'm quite surprised, why aren't they more popular. forged blades in short sticks for most feel and CB in longer clubs for more forgiveness... what else one would look for ?
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  • 3 years later...
I choose Blades, I love the sexy look and smooth feel.

Titleist 913 D3 10.5*

Adams Super XTD 17*

Adams DHY 21*

TaylorMade TP MB 4-PW

Titleist SM4 54*/58*/62*

Bettinardi SS 11

Leupold GX-3i Rangefinder

Titleist ProV1 Ball


I strongly agree with Rafcin!!!!!

Driver - R7 425 9.5*
3 Wood - 980 15*
Hybrid - Rescue Mid 19* & 16*
Irons - 735.CM 4-9
Wedges - 248.06, SM54.14, & SM60.08White Hot Tour #5 Ball - ProV1 XHome Course: The Island


blades are unbeatable if you can handle them

in my x72 stand bag
g10 driver 10.5
g10 3-wood 15.5
g10 3 iron hybrid
cg gold with actionlite flighted vokey spin milled oil can 56 t35 60 degree anser 2 putterz urs


Note: This thread is 6010 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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