Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5270 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
I have shot a 82,84 and a 83 the last three times Ive played. I feel like I could break 80 if I could hit the green from this range. I'm usually 50-70yds out after my drive on all par 4s, but I really don't know what shot to play from that distance. BTW most of our greens are elevated.

Posted

for me, thats a finesse sandwedge, meaning i just feel out that shot, especially to an elevated green.

Find a range, or a course that has a short game area, or go to the range that has alot of flags. Then try to hit every club from lob wedge to 7 iron 50 yds, 60 yds, 70 yds.. That will get your feel really good.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

Depending on the green and pin location I'll use a 58* or 60* LW or 52* or 54* GW/SW 95% of the time.  70% LW swing, or about a 55% GW swing.  Occasionally I'll want to keep the ball lower and/or have it run out more on the green, and I'll use a PW (45-50* depending on my set that day).


Posted


Originally Posted by wildcorndog

I have shot a 82,84 and a 83 the last three times Ive played. I feel like I could break 80 if I could hit the green from this range. I'm usually 50-70yds out after my drive on all par 4s, but I really don't know what shot to play from that distance. BTW most of our greens are elevated.


First thought...if you hit your drive this close to all the par 4s, maybe you should move back to the next set of tees. If that is not feasible then you can lay-up to give you a more favorable yardage. I have a couple of holes that range from 350 - 380 that I will hit 2H or 3W so that I have a full wedge in while others are hitting it past me only to try to scrape a wedge from a thin lie from 50 yards.

On the occasion that I have the 50-70 yarder, I usually gear down on a LW from a 1/2-3/4 to hit those ranges. If the lie is marginal, or in the wind, or the green is slanted toward me, I may take it in lower with a 54 degree SW. This is a shot that you really have to feel and practice a lot to hit it close.

  • Upvote 1

Callaway AI Smoke TD Max 10.5* | Cobra Big Tour 15.5* | Rad Tour 18.5* | Titleist U500 4i | T100 5-P | Vokey 50/8* F, 54/10* S,  58/10* S | Scotty Cameron Squareback 1


Posted
Well, it's really just during the summer. The ground is so hard it's like hitting across a walmart parking lot! Im usually 80-100yds in the winter time witch is a much more favorable distance. I've thought about teeing off with a 3 wood, but I don't wanna hang my driver up for months at a time. Simple fix would be go hit off the back tees.

Posted


Originally Posted by wildcorndog

Well, it's really just during the summer. The ground is so hard it's like hitting across a walmart parking lot! Im usually 80-100yds in the winter time witch is a much more favorable distance. I've thought about teeing off with a 3 wood, but I don't wanna hang my driver up for months at a time. Simple fix would be go hit off the back tees.


Well, the 50 yarder off the walmart parking lot is the toughest shot in golf. You really have to be precise to hit a wedge off a hard pan lie or club down with a less lofted club which will give you a little more forgiveness. I know this shot well, and I would take a PW and run it in there rather than risk blading it over the green.



Originally Posted by wildcorndog

Do you use much wrist hindge from 50yds.

Not really, you want to set up with your weight favoring your front side, maybe 60/40, and try to keep your head still with your hands pulling the handle through the ball. Having your wrists hinged at 90 degrees by the time they are waist high (parallel to the ground) would be ideal, but you don't want to overdo it and end up snatching the club too far inside because you were overly concerned with hinge.

Callaway AI Smoke TD Max 10.5* | Cobra Big Tour 15.5* | Rad Tour 18.5* | Titleist U500 4i | T100 5-P | Vokey 50/8* F, 54/10* S,  58/10* S | Scotty Cameron Squareback 1


Posted

I would defer to the Ben Hogan method... don't use much arm swing -- leave the hands downish.  Hinge your wrists, then turn your body to hit the shot with minimal hand action.  Practice hitting shots with no release at all (try to keep some flex in the right wrist,) just hinging up and turning your body through, keeping weight more left at all times.  You will actually release a little wrist hinge automatically, but make sure your hands and club shaft are leading the shot (shaft leans toward the target) at impact.  To add distance, just turn through the shot faster with a slightly larger swing.  This shot is really easy once you learn this way to do it.  I think Stan Utley teaches this approach as well but Hogan was a master of this shot.  Once you learn how to do it, try hitting little 8 irons, 9 irons, PW, SW, and LW shots -- they will always be easy and very controllable.  You turn a challenging shot into a weapon you look forward to hitting.  I use it to hit out of divots as well, just use more club.

RC

 


Posted

This is definitely a touch shot.  I just go practice for a bit and figure out how far back I need to take the clubhead for certain distances.

Really the best way though, is to minimize how many times you really need to take that shot in a round.  Why don't you drop back a couple clubs on those par 4's and leave yourself 100-125 instead where you're hitting a nice easy full shot.  You may surprise yourself how close you stick it from there.

On those kinds of holes, I figure, If I'm not getting within 30 yards of the hole, it's probably not worth it and I should just give myself an easier shot in, plus, I can judge the distance past 100 much better than I could under.  I've got more clubs for that.  I also find it a bit demoralizing to be 50-70 yards away and not make a bird.  It's at the point where it feels close enough to think you can stiff it every time, but in reality, I'll probably be more accurate further out where I can use distances I know are precise.

  • Upvote 1
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted


Originally Posted by RC

I would defer to the Ben Hogan method... don't use much arm swing -- leave the hands downish.  Hinge your wrists, then turn your body to hit the shot with minimal hand action.  Practice hitting shots with no release at all (try to keep some flex in the right wrist,) just hinging up and turning your body through, keeping weight more left at all times.  You will actually release a little wrist hinge automatically, but make sure your hands and club shaft are leading the shot (shaft leans toward the target) at impact.  To add distance, just turn through the shot faster with a slightly larger swing.  This shot is really easy once you learn this way to do it.  I think Stan Utley teaches this approach as well but Hogan was a master of this shot.  Once you learn how to do it, try hitting little 8 irons, 9 irons, PW, SW, and LW shots -- they will always be easy and very controllable.  You turn a challenging shot into a weapon you look forward to hitting.  I use it to hit out of divots as well, just use more club.


I use this exact method for pitching and chipping.  I am going to try it on the range with an 8 now. Good tip.

Callaway AI Smoke TD Max 10.5* | Cobra Big Tour 15.5* | Rad Tour 18.5* | Titleist U500 4i | T100 5-P | Vokey 50/8* F, 54/10* S,  58/10* S | Scotty Cameron Squareback 1


Posted

Just dont hit driver on par 4's unless its long.  Its not like you will be hanging up driver for a month or all summer cuz you still have par 5s (i hope lol)

Dont hit a club for max distance, hit it to step up a favorable next shot at a comfortable distance.

On another note, I hate 50 yard shots lol

Driver: adams.gif Speedline 9032LS RIP Shaft (Stiff)

3 Wood: adams.gif Oviation 3Wood

Hybrids: taylormade.gif Rescue 18* 3H - 22* 4H

Irons: callaway.gif X-24 Hot Irons 5-PW

Wedges: cleveland.gif CG15 52, 56

 

Putter: odyssey.gif PT 82

Ball:  e6


Posted
Well I've been taking half a regular GW swing. So my swing is just past parallel to the ground.. Yea alot of wrist hinge

Posted

Do you make solid contact with your wedges?

Do you come up short or long with your approach shot with your wedge?

Is it distance control?

How do you currently hit your wedges distances of 50-70 yards?

I usually take a shorter back swing on my 60 degree wedge and control the distance of 50-70 yards or I will aim slightly left and open my club face to take off distance and swing the same as a full shot, my 60 distance is 80 yards so I open the wedge up accordingly and that worked for me in the pass.  I currently take a shorter back swing and take distance off but this requires practice to know your shorter distances and what a 3/4 swing or 1/2 swing distance will be for my swing distances.

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1


Posted

Am I the only one that likes hitting wedges off of exceedingly tight/firm lies?!?!? Unless it's a cart path, or the kind of hardpan that forms along treelines (most of you, I'd think, know what I'm talking about. It's essentially the cart path) I love hitting those shots. For me, I just hit the ball first and play something pretty low, not too 'cute'. I usually get one big hop and it settles down nicely. Ball first! Ball first! Ball first!

.................

I can't advocate a specific method for these shots...but practicing is the biggest thing inside of 100 yards. My only advice is try to find a consistent method and get your alignment right. Once you have that, feel and both muscle and cognitive memory should take over.

Current Gear Setup: Driver: TM R9 460, 9.5, Stiff - 3W: TM R9, 15, stiff - Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro Black, 18, stiff - Irons: Callaway X Forged 09, 3-PW, PX 5.5 - SW: Callaway X Series Jaws, 54.14 - LW: Callaway X Series Jaws, 60.12 - Putter: PING Redwood Anser, 33in.


Posted

I was practicing today on dirt and wood chips hitting my wedges about 50 yards, fun stuff.

Titleist 910 D2 9.5 Driver
Titleist 910 F15 & 21 degree fairway wood
Titleist 910 hybrid 24 degree
Mizuno Mp33 5 - PW
52/1056/1160/5

"Yonex ADX Blade putter, odyssey two ball blade putter, both  33"

ProV-1


Posted

This is totally a touch shot.  Definitely go to the range and figure out how far your 1/2 and 3/4 shots with the LW, SW, and PW go.  But really you just need to practice these shots a lot and get the feel.

Example, I just went on a vacation that included no golf, and played this past weekend for the first time in almost a month.  I'd hit my birdie balls in the interim a bit, but it's impossible to get good distance feel with those obviously.  I'd been practicing my short wedges a lot before I left, but hit 3 wedges just to get on the green on the first hole (after hitting driver, 3i to get to about 35 yards on a 540 par 5!), and only on the back nine did I start putting any of my short approaches to a distance I was at least somewhat satisfied with.

Matt

Mid-Weight Heavy Putter
Cleveland Tour Action 60˚
Cleveland CG15 54˚
Nike Vapor Pro Combo, 4i-GW
Titleist 585h 19˚
Tour Edge Exotics XCG 15˚ 3 Wood
Taylormade R7 Quad 9.5˚

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted

I think with you hitting that close you should back up to the next tees but I wouldn't do it yet.  I use to play from the whites at a course for a while and was always withing 70 yards after my drive on the par 4's and always used my 54 vokey. The best practice is if the course is not busy one day to just drop a couple balls on each hole where your drive lands and just practice that shot.  I feel like you get more practice on the course than on the range and once you get that "feel" for the shots at that distance then take it to the range and work on consistency of that shot.  It has been a while since Ive played that course from the white tees cause I have moved back to the blacks but I was to a point where my accuracy and distance control with the wedge was basically spot on, putting shots within 6' 80% of the time.  But once you get comfortable with that shot then I suggest you move back to the next set of tees cause that will expand your golfing ability.

Bag- Sun Mountain Superlite 3.5
Driver- TaylorMade R9 Supertri

3 Wood- TaylorMade R5-80XL

Hybrid- Titleist 585h 19 and 21
Irons- Titleist AP2 710 5-PW

Wedges- Titleist Vokey SM60.04 and SM 54.14

Putter- Antigua

 

"He who rules the short game wins the gold"


Posted

TourSpoon had good idea on either moving back to next set of tees, or else using 3W or hybrid so you have a full iron shot into green.

This gets into course management. You can either stay out of the "40- to 80-yard zone," or calibrate your wedges. If you have a 14 HDCP, though, you can probably master the zone .

Take a day and calibrate your wedges - this is a variation of Dave Pelz technique. Find a quiet day at the range, and hit five shots for each cell in the matrix. Take average yardage for each wedge for all swing lengths. Put this yardage average in the proper matrix cell, and you have good idea of how far each type of shot with each wedge goes. You can laminate the matrix and hang it on your golf bag.

Wedge Quarter Half 3Qtr Full
PW
GW
SW

Note: Use the balls you play on the course; range balls don't go as far as game balls. (That's why you want a quiet range day, so you can take shots up and down range box for day. Ask range manager first, or course.

I did this last summer, practiced a little on it, and broke 90 four times. I got a new wedge mix at Christmas, however, and haven't "recalibrated." Result: I'm leaving a lot of partial wedges 10 yards short or 10 yards long (good line, bad distance). Guess I need to redo my matrix.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:image.png.b6c3447dddf0df25e482bf21abf775ae.pngInertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  image.png.f0ca9194546a61407ba38502672e5ecf.png QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 5270 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • In terms of ball striking, not really. Ball striking being how good you are at hitting the center of the clubface with the swing path you want and the loft you want to present at impact.  In terms of getting better launch conditions for the current swing you have, it is debatable.  It depends on how you swing and what your current launch conditions are at. These are fine tuning mechanisms not significant changes. They might not even be the correct fine tuning you need. I would go spend the $100 to $150 dollars in getting a club fitting over potentially wasting money on changes that ChatGPT gave you.  New grips are important. Yes, it can affect swing weight, but it is personal preference. Swing weight is just one component.  Overall weight effects the feel. The type of golf shaft effects the feel of the club in the swing. Swing weight effects the feel. You can add so much extra weight to get the swing weight correct and it will feel completely different because the total weight went up. Imagine swinging a 5lb stick versus a 15lb stick. They could be balanced the same (swing weight), but one will take substantially more effort to move.  I would almost say swing weight is an old school way of fitting clubs. Now, with launch monitors, you could just fit the golfer. You could have two golfers with the same swing speed that want completely different swing weight. It is just personal preference. You can only tell that by swinging a golf club.     
    • Thanks for the comments. I fully understand that these changes won't make any big difference compared to getting a flawless swing but looking to give myself the best chance of success at where I am and hopefully lessons will improve the swing along the way. Can these changes make minor improvements to ball striking and misses then that's fine. From what I understood about changing the grips, which is to avoid them slipping in warm and humid conditions, is that it will affect the swing weight since midsize are heavier than regular and so therefore adding weight to the club head would be required to avoid a change of feel in the club compared to before? 
    • I think part of it is there hasn't been enough conclusive studies specific to golf regarding block studies. Maybe the full swing, you can't study it because it is too complicated and to some degree it will fall into variable or random.  
    • Going one step stiffer in the golf shaft, of the same make and model will have minor impact on the launch conditions. It can matter, it is a way to dial in some launch conditions if you are a few hundred RPM off or the angle isn't there. Same with moving weights around. A clubhead weights 200-220 grams. You are shifting a fraction of that to move the CG slightly. It can matter, again its more about fine tuning. As for grip size, this is more personal preference. Grip size doesn't have any impact on the swing out of personal preference.  You are going to spend hundreds of dollars for fine tuning. Which if you want, go for it. I am not sure what your level of play is, or what your goals in golf are.  In the end, the golf swing matters more than the equipment. If you want to go to that level of detail, go find a good golf club fitter. ChatGPT is going to surface scan reddit, golfwrx, and other popular websites for the answers. Basically, it is all opinionated gibberish at this point.   
    • Wordle 1,640 4/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜🟩 ⬜🟩🟩🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.