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  1. 1. Which brand do you use when it comes to drivers? Pros and Cons.

    • Callaway
      162
    • Taylormade
      360
    • Titleist
      143
    • Mizuno
      29
    • Cleveland
      88
    • Nike
      87
    • Bridgestone
      5
    • Srixon
      6
    • Ping
      78
    • Cobra
      54
    • Others (Please specify)
      104


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I just switched from the Nike Sasquatch to the Cleveland HiBore XL.

I used to play a R580XD and I switched to the XL also about six weeks ago and it took me about three weeks of consistent golf to get it down. I played absolutely terrible with for so long and once I got the feel of the shaft and the clubhead(much different feel with compared to the TM) I can now hit it very well. Another thing that got me was adjusting the tee height to a lower height(definitely positive) based on the center of gravity.

My Clubs
Driver: HiBore XL 10.5*
3-Wood: SS-01
Hybrid: 503H 22*
Irons: Deep Red II TourSand Wedge: CG10 56*Lob Wedge: CG10 60*Putter: V Foil GT M6.4KBall: ProV1

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Callaway FT-i when i need that little bit of a straighter shot.. if i want a little more distance and speed i pull out the FT-5
Whats in my bag?
Bag: Terrafirma X Tour Edition Stand Bag
Driver#1 - FT-i 10
Driver#2 - FT-5 10
Irons (5-SW): Fusion Wide Sole Graphite RegularHybrid Fusion #4 HybridWood Fusion #3 & #5 Fairway WoodPutter: White Hot XG 2 ball Tour EditionCurrent Balls: D2 & HX Hot & Tour 56

I stick to what works in my bag. I'm not one to go out and purchase new clubs if what I have in the bag is working for me. I don't care how old my clubs and how out date they are, if they are working and in good shape i will play them until they break.

Callaway 9.5* Hawkeye VFT. Still in near mint condition. Few minor scratches at the base of the head from me getting a little too crazy sometimes by hitting driver off the deck. Had it for almost 7 years and still never fails to put the ball out 275 and to the left side of the fairway with a slight draw and ballooning ball flight (starts low, takes off mid flight)

In The Huffer:

Driver: Superquad 10.5* Aldila NV-S Shaft
3w: 975 F
Hybrid: 22 Degree Baffler Multimetal3-PW: LCG Burner IronsSW: 56 Degree 588 GunmetalPutter: DfX No 2Balls: ALWAYS NXT Tour #3's, or NXT Extreme #3'sHome Course: Glenmoor Country Club: Jack Nicklaus Signature Course. 7015...


I am using a golden bear driver at the moment but I tried the King Cobra 400 SZ with an Aldila tour 60 regular shaft (60g) which is the non-conforming model. I am hitting about 220-250 most shots straight. I would like to buy a new King Cobra with the same shaft that is conforming and has very similar results (long straight drives, very nice sound and a very forgiving club face). If you could recommend one of the new King Cobras which is just like the 400 SZ could you please pm me and tell me the name and price of it. Thanks

I use a Callaway FT-3 Fusion with Adila NVS stiff shaft. Oh and a Draw Bias. I have had a Nicket in the past but in my modest oppinion, they are not a good driver maker. I thought about updating to a FT-5 but they were too expencive for a 15 year old.
In the Bag
Driver: FT-3 Fusion Driver
Fairway Woods: FT-3 Fusion 5 Wood
Hybrids: FT Fusion Hybrid
Irons: ZB Forged 4-PWWedges: X-Tour (52,56,60)Putter: Rossa Daytona 1

Just moved up to a Taylormade R7 460, haven't played any rounds with it yet just a bucket of balls & I am liking it quite a bit.

not that i'm a great golfer or anything but i love my R7 460. I've always had a thing for taylormade though i've always thought they were the best hitting clubs (for me)
In My Blue & Silver Sasquatch Tour Bag:
Driver: 10.5° Tour Burner TP
3 Wood: Tour Burner Tour
5 Wood Burner TP
Hybrid: Rescue TP 17°5-PW: R7 TP Flighted Rifle 5.5Wedges: 52°&60° cg12 Black Pearl 56° 588 Classic GunmetalPutter: Circa '62 No. 1 Oil CanBall: e6+

I just switched over from a 9.5 Cleveland Hi Bore to the 9 degree Callaway FT-I with a Fujikura Speeder Tour stiff shaft and its helped me incredibly already. At first I would not even think of looking down at a square head driver, but I'm loving the look now :)

What's in my bag
Driver: Callaway FT- I 9 degree Tour Stiff Fujikura Speeder Shaft
3 Wood: King Cobra LD F-Speed 15 degree Stiff flex
Hybrids: Nickent 4 (23 degree) & 5 (26 degree)
Irons: Callaway X-20's (PW thru 6) Uniflex shaftGap Wedge: Cleveland Tour Action 52 Sand Wedge: Cleveland CG 10 56 degrees


TM R5 TP 9.5 Diamana stiff. Great club. Higher caps will not like the open face though.
In My Bag
Driver: R5 TP 9.5 Diamana
3 Wood: V-Steel 15* UST V2
5 Wood: R7 Steel
Hybrids: Heavenwood 20* UST V2 Rescue Mid 22* UST V2Irons: RAC LT2 5-9 Project X FlightedWedges: RAC Black TP 47* 51* 55* 60*Putter: White Hot 2 BallBalls: One Black

TaylorMade r7 425. The Nike SQ2 just sounds like a Blacksmith hammer, I couldn't get over it.

I use a 10.5 degree Titleist 905R w/ a YS-6* regular shaft and it puts me 250 yards out on a fairly consistent basis.


I use a TM R5 Type N and an R5 Type N modded to the TP version

I wouldn't use anything else.

For what you would spend to get a R5 TP on ebay with the weight kit,

you could have a used r5 type N, mod it, buy the weight kit on ebay and still have $60-$70 left over to refinish the club, and after that, have $30 left over and a totally unique one of a kind paint job on your "TP".

I've hit my buddies r5 Tp and I like the way my modded version feels compared to his.

Hi-Bore W/ Aldila NVS-65 (Stiff)
R5 Type N (TpConv), W/ Graphite Design YS-6+ (Stiff)
TA-5 Gumetal 5-PW, W/ Stock TA-5 Graphite shafts (Stiff)
588 Becu SW, LW, GW W/ True Temper S300 shafts
21* & 24* Viper Hybrids W/ UST proforce 65 shafts (Reg) R7 Ti 3 Wood W/ Re-Ax 60 Graphite (Stiff) Pal2...


  bwinger79 said:
TM R5 TP 9.5 Diamana stiff. Great club. Higher caps will not like the open face though.

And this is why I reccomend the mod type N to upper mid / high handicappers who want to play the R5 and still use the TLC tech but don't want to play the open face on the R5 TP model.

the type N has a neutral face angle and is not open. Mod it so it can take weights and the Type N becomes a monster with TLC weight technology. Why TM didn't make the type N or D TLC is beyond me. It is literally as simple as breaking the epoxy bonds on the palstic weight covers, and using an #4 easy out to remove a plug form the heel port. The ports are already threaded to take the TLC weights! It's plug and play from there.

Hi-Bore W/ Aldila NVS-65 (Stiff)
R5 Type N (TpConv), W/ Graphite Design YS-6+ (Stiff)
TA-5 Gumetal 5-PW, W/ Stock TA-5 Graphite shafts (Stiff)
588 Becu SW, LW, GW W/ True Temper S300 shafts
21* & 24* Viper Hybrids W/ UST proforce 65 shafts (Reg) R7 Ti 3 Wood W/ Re-Ax 60 Graphite (Stiff) Pal2...


cobra f spped with adilla nv shaft reg flex, best driver ever, very forgiving

What's In My Bag

Driver R9 Supertri 9.5
3 WoodR9
3 Hybrid: Baffler DWSIrons X-20 Tour 4-PWGap Wedge RAC TP SmokeSand Wedge Vokey 56.14Lob Wedge Vokey SM 60.7Putter:SeeMore FGP Black


All of the pro line drivers are pretty good today; there really isn't any manufacturer who has something special that the others don't.

Taylor Made and Callaway probably spend more than anyone on product R&D;, but I'm not certain of that.

Here's my take on how to choose a driver, distilled to a three step process:

1. Look at a bunch of drivers in the store, gripping and taking the address position. Anything that doesn't fit your eye misses the cut. Try to weed it down to 3 or 4 candidates at most, if possible.

2. Get a fitting with an experienced pro/fitter, who has a launch monitor, and many drivers with many different shafts for you to test. If you like Callaway, you're in luck, because they have "Opti-fit" which allows you to test almost any shaft/head combination in their fitting centers. If your candidate drivers from step one come from different companies, you may need to be fitted by a pro who has access to all of the different brands...not all places have all of the major brands' fitting centers, so act accordingly.

3. After the fitting, get your favorite clubs - from 2-4 at most is ideal - and take them to the range or out on the course. The one you hit the most consistently solid in the first 5 swings with each is the one to buy. If you're properly fit, distance is going to be a dead heat between all contenders probably, so the one you hit solid the most often will give you the best distance and accuracy over time. Don't be swayed by killing one shot in your field testing...

JP Bouffard

"I cut a little driver in there." -- Jim Murray

Driver: Titleist 915 D3, ACCRA Shaft 9.5*.
3W: Callaway XR,
3,4 Hybrid: Taylor Made RBZ Rescue Tour, Oban shaft.
Irons: 5-GW: Mizuno JPX800, Aerotech Steelfiber 95 shafts, S flex.
Wedges: Titleist Vokey SM5 56 degree, M grind
Putter: Edel Custom Pixel Insert 

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Started with a Ram FX
then moved to an Adams Faldo (long but no heel which I seem to find with regularity)
then progressed to a Ping TiSi (Used from 2000 till last month)
Now I've been Geeked..... Geek Fail Safe II and it truly has been the best driver for my game so far. Longer and more forgiving than all the rest.

cybear

The-Bear's: OGIO Backpacks Golf Bags and Work Bags cart bag.

Driver:       ping.gif Rapture 10.5 w/stock R
Fairways:  cleveland.gif 588 14 Matrix Ozik 6Q3 R
Hybrids:   adams.gif a12os 3h-6h Grafalloy Prolanch blue 60 R

Irons:      adams.gif a12os 7-PW Grafalloy Prolanch blue 60 R
Wedges:  Hopkins Black Stain Chrome 48-08 full sole, 52-08 shelf, 56-14 channel Hopkins OTM steel W

Putter:     ping.gif  B60i IsoPur 

 Ball:       callaway.gif Supersoft ball


Note: This thread is 4418 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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    • I don't use anything except occasionally an alignment stick or a yardstick. 😄 
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    • So even if a ball is obviously OOB? What constitutes "obviously". Let's say the person hitting says "I think that stayed in". The other three disagree and say it was obvious it did not. He cannot be forced to take a provisional can he? So this rule essentially offers the person hitting the ability to not have to risk going OOB again and hitting 4 from the middle of the fairway where the ball went OOB. Or am I reading the rules incorrectly?  
    • Lots of clubs institute this MLR. Even when conditions don't lead to a lot of lost balls. I see no problem with it. It does mean you're hitting your fourth (if your tee shot is missing), of course.
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