I play steel in my 4 and 6 hybrids (dont play a 5 at the moment).
The 4 is TM burner with a OEM steel shaft but the 6 is one i built on the cheap as an experiment.
Its an Acer XDS, fitted with an Appollo steel shaft. Its the cheapest one they do and its spot on. You can get the Appollo Shadow lite are Acculite for decent prices through Nordica golf
It's not an informed opinion but I have tried a DG s300 in a 5 wood head and found that the overall weight was very heavy. I was able to get the swingweight down to d2 but the whole club felt like I was swinging a mallet. Since the DG SL is about 20grams lighter ( lower ball flight) or AWT ( Mid Ball flight) I would opt for either of these, bearing in mind that the shaft would have to be parallel tip hosel .370 to fit the Adams Pro .370. ( I could be wrong here but hopefully someone that knows more will pitch in )
I've been Playing Golf for: 10 years - with a 5 year kid break
My current handicap index or average score is: 18 My typical ball flight is: pull/pull draw The shot I hate or the "miss" I'm trying to reduce/eliminate is: pull draw
Current swing thoughts are
-Posture don't arch back and neck
-Start backswing with right ass cheek
-Just rotate on the way back, don't sway to the right
-downswing - rotate body, rotate, rotate...ROTATE!
-impact try to drive club face forward (impact bag feeling) not flip
Not all at the same time, of course!
The hand signals show the ball flight on DTL.
This is a 6I
This is a selection of shots, I've not given you the highlights real.
Shank happens once every 20-30
Push every 15-20
over draw every other shot.
This I really agree with. Really
As it happens I went for the trackman certified guy.
Thanks for the all the thoughts, At lot of them made a lot of sense.
Not sure I really got an answer into the fundamental question
-How do you know if the advice you are being given is just plain wrong?
I, for one, don't want to waste a couple of months being shown the wrong path. It's a difficult game and weeding out the good advice from the bad is tricky. The best I've found is to look at how an instructor fixes a "problem" If they talk about fixing the movements that lead up to the problem, the previous links in the chain, then they get more points. If they just fix the problem without referring to anything else, then they lose points with me.
Thanks for the help all.
Now to get to the range again!