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mfillyaw

Buying Used Clubs on EBay?

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I'm considering doing this. I really don't have the money to be spending $1,000 on brand new clubs. I've found a set of cleveland 588 CBs for a very reasonable price on ebay and they seem to be in fine shape.

Are there any complications with getting clubs fitted after they have been used for a few years? I can still get the shafts lengthened and everything correct?

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You can get used clubs fitted at most golf shops, for a fitting fee. Often a used set will need to be regripped; for 3-PW this could be between $50 and $80.

If the clubs need major adjustments, however, this could run into some money. You don't want to buy a used set and spend $300 tweaking it.  And remember, it you lengthen the shaft you increase the swingweight, if you shorten the shaft you decrease it. Regaining the old swingweight will cost you $$.

Lots of golf shops get used irons as trade-ins and want to sell them to get their $$ back.. You can test-hit used clubs if you buy them in person, and get an estimate up front on tweak cost. Not so on eBay purchases.

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I know a few people including my sons first set we got from ebay, all have been in great shape and got some really good deals.

One thing to keep in mind when having them fit and any adjustments made other then the grips, the store will take zero responsibility. So say you have a lie angle adjusted and they crack the head your out.

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I have bought plenty of "vintage" clubs from eBay that have made their way into my bag at some juncture. That said, it all depends on what you are looking to do/buy. From my assessment the difference between good equipment and unusable comes down to the shaft - consistency and suitablity to your swing. Especially if you are talking a driver, I think this is where driver technology really has advanced. The combinations of weight, flex, kickpoint etc, I think are often overlooked advances in terms of why today's tee ball goes farther. That said, irons tend to be a different story - it's more about consistency than distance. I think any reputable manufactuter over the past 15 years has made probably a pretty consistent set compared to yesteryear or say knockoff market. That is what irons come down you want there to be a consistent swingweight, loft, lie, shaft dynamics etc. No one wants to have swing each club differently (gee I hook my 5 iron, slice, my 4 iron, etc.)

Now you can always go to a clubfitter and get new shafts or have some of these factors adjusted, but then you can end spending just as much fixing an old set of clubs as you would on a new set of clubs. My advice, don't overlook the shaft in a set of irons. Avoid those Frankensteins (I reshafted these, making them a half inch longer, bent them a degree upright, etc.). Resign yourself to the fact that you will spend some money on the clubs after you get them (at least you might need to regrip them).

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I have bought plenty of "vintage" clubs from eBay that have made their way into my bag at some juncture. That said, it all depends on what you are looking to do/buy. From my assessment the difference between good equipment and unusable comes down to the shaft - consistency and suitablity to your swing. Especially if you are talking a driver, I think this is where driver technology really has advanced. The combinations of weight, flex, kickpoint etc, I think are often overlooked advances in terms of why today's tee ball goes farther. That said, irons tend to be a different story - it's more about consistency than distance. I think any reputable manufactuter over the past 15 years has made probably a pretty consistent set compared to yesteryear or say knockoff market. That is what irons come down you want there to be a consistent swingweight, loft, lie, shaft dynamics etc. No one wants to have swing each club differently (gee I hook my 5 iron, slice, my 4 iron, etc.)

Now you can always go to a clubfitter and get new shafts or have some of these factors adjusted, but then you can end spending just as much fixing an old set of clubs as you would on a new set of clubs. My advice, don't overlook the shaft in a set of irons. Avoid those Frankensteins (I reshafted these, making them a half inch longer, bent them a degree upright, etc.). Resign yourself to the fact that you will spend some money on the clubs after you get them (at least you might need to regrip them).

Dynamic Gold S-300 is a pretty good shaft correct? I have a fairly high swing speed 110+ for irons.

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Dynamic Gold S-300 is a pretty good shaft correct? I have a fairly high swing speed 110+ for irons.


Yeah, that's my plan. S-300 taper tips. There are also the Dynalite shafts, which I have read are a closer match for the Hogan Apex shafts of yesteryear, but the DG S-300s are what I am used to. I am not huge into saying swing of XXX must equal this flex, etc. If you are trying to bring a 30-year-old set of blades back into playing shape, odds are you are more about feel than math. That said, the big issue may be shaft weight. From what I understand the Apex shafts were about 115 grams. The Dynalites are abour 120 and the DGs come in around 130.

Like everything else golf, experiement, have fun, and ignore what everyone else says, right?

For what it is worth, you can bore out the old hosels from their .370 to .355 taper to just a straight .370 parallel tip. Again, the right equipment (reamer and/or a drill press) and patience. I have done this both with irons (just as a test case) and persimmon woods (to accept a new composite shaft). I would advise against going this route for irons, however, for three reasons:

  1. Quality .355 taper tip shafts are readily available (persimmon taper tips not so much).
  2. Reaming/drilling and deburring a metal hosel is involved work
  3. You are changing the dynamics of the club. Not only is the clubhead going to be slightly lighter, but the shaft weights will be different - taper tips have a constant weight whereas parallels weigh more the longer they are.

But that is what makes such tinkering fun and educational. It's also why if you are looking to get old clubs off eBay, don't go overboard (unless you are doing it for pure collectibility).

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Yeah, that's my plan. S-300 taper tips. There are also the Dynalite shafts, which I have read are a closer match for the Hogan Apex shafts of yesteryear, but the DG S-300s are what I am used to. I am not huge into saying swing of XXX must equal this flex, etc. If you are trying to bring a 30-year-old set of blades back into playing shape, odds are you are more about feel than math. That said, the big issue may be shaft weight. From what I understand the Apex shafts were about 115 grams. The Dynalites are abour 120 and the DGs come in around 130.

Like everything else golf, experiement, have fun, and ignore what everyone else says, right?

For what it is worth, you can bore out the old hosels from their .370 to .355 taper to just a straight .370 parallel tip. Again, the right equipment (reamer and/or a drill press) and patience. I have done this both with irons (just as a test case) and persimmon woods (to accept a new composite shaft). I would advise against going this route for irons, however, for three reasons:

Quality .355 taper tip shafts are readily available (persimmon taper tips not so much).

Reaming/drilling and deburring a metal hosel is involved work

You are changing the dynamics of the club. Not only is the clubhead going to be slightly lighter, but the shaft weights will be different - taper tips have a constant weight whereas parallels weigh more the longer they are.

But that is what makes such tinkering fun and educational. It's also why if you are looking to get old clubs off eBay, don't go overboard (unless you are doing it for pure collectibility).

They aren't old or "antique" clubs by any means. The set I'm looking to buy are Cleveland 588 CBs. They would be my playing set of irons, not a collectible. Which is why I'm trying to do as much research as possible before investing.

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They aren't old or "antique" clubs by any means. The set I'm looking to buy are Cleveland 588 CBs. They would be my playing set of irons, not a collectible. Which is why I'm trying to do as much research as possible before investing.

Have you tried these irons out at a retailer/buddy yet? If not you need to if at all possible.

One thing a buddy did was try out as many different clubs he could, then found them on eBay for the price he wanted to pay.

But again how much work do you need on them would really determine if you got a good price or not. eBay is good if you know what you are looking for.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by JoePete

I have bought plenty of "vintage" clubs from eBay that have made their way into my bag at some juncture. That said, it all depends on what you are looking to do/buy. From my assessment the difference between good equipment and unusable comes down to the shaft - consistency and suitablity to your swing. Especially if you are talking a driver, I think this is where driver technology really has advanced. The combinations of weight, flex, kickpoint etc, I think are often overlooked advances in terms of why today's tee ball goes farther. That said, irons tend to be a different story - it's more about consistency than distance. I think any reputable manufactuter over the past 15 years has made probably a pretty consistent set compared to yesteryear or say knockoff market. That is what irons come down you want there to be a consistent swingweight, loft, lie, shaft dynamics etc. No one wants to have swing each club differently (gee I hook my 5 iron, slice, my 4 iron, etc.)

Now you can always go to a clubfitter and get new shafts or have some of these factors adjusted, but then you can end spending just as much fixing an old set of clubs as you would on a new set of clubs. My advice, don't overlook the shaft in a set of irons. Avoid those Frankensteins (I reshafted these, making them a half inch longer, bent them a degree upright, etc.). Resign yourself to the fact that you will spend some money on the clubs after you get them (at least you might need to regrip them).

Dynamic Gold S-300 is a pretty good shaft correct? I have a fairly high swing speed 110+ for irons.

110+ for irons????

That is amazingly fast..

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110+ for irons????

That is amazingly fast..

My yardages seem to line up with the 110 column. Maybe I'm reading this wrong? Obviously I don't swing my PW the same speed as my driver.

Really I'm just looking to confirm that Dynamic Gold S-300 are a good shaft for a high swing speed golfer.

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Have you tried these irons out at a retailer/buddy yet? If not you need to if at all possible.

One thing a buddy did was try out as many different clubs he could, then found them on eBay for the price he wanted to pay.

But again how much work do you need on them would really determine if you got a good price or not. eBay is good if you know what you are looking for.

Yea I've hit the 588 CBs a bunch at golf shops and love the feel. I have cleveland TA 2s now and would like to stick with them as a brand.

What do you think a fitting session and shaft lengthening would cost me?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 14ledo81

110+ for irons????

That is amazingly fast..

My yardages seem to line up with the 110 column. Maybe I'm reading this wrong? Obviously I don't swing my PW the same speed as my driver.

Really I'm just looking to confirm that Dynamic Gold S-300 are a good shaft for a high swing speed golfer.

Pretty sure that 110 means driver swing speed.  Each club down from there would be incrementally slower.

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Pretty sure that 110 means driver swing speed.  Each club down from there would be incrementally slower.

yes that makes sense. shows you how much I know.

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are you certain you need to fit clubs ? standard often goes much better than cerebral ego material tweaking....

like 110 swing speeds on irons.. are you swinging  the speed or really swinging a potential shot ?

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Yea I've hit the 588 CBs a bunch at golf shops and love the feel. I have cleveland TA 2s now and would like to stick with them as a brand.

What do you think a fitting session and shaft lengthening would cost me?

I would call, it maybe that by the time you buy from ebay, go have all the work done you could have picked up a used set at the store.

They will usually wave the labor cost when you buy the clubs.

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