Jump to content
Check out the Spin Axis Podcast! ×
Note: This thread is 5920 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

Posted
Ok I have the ultimate answer to this question... its whatever floats your boat... most players carry both... I carry just the 3-wood... they can coexist... but the reason why this thread was posted to begin with is and the question should be and it may be another thread... 5-wood, 2-iron, or hybrid... thats where there is a lot of gray area...

What's in Shane's Bag?     

Ball: 2022 :callaway: Chrome Soft Triple Track Driver: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond 8° MCA Kai’li 70s FW: :callaway:Paradym Triple Diamond  H: :callaway: Apex Pro 21 20°I (3-PW) :callaway: Apex 21 UST Recoil 95 (3), Recoil 110 (4-PW). Wedges: :callaway: Jaws Raw 50°, 54°, 60° UST Recoil 110 Putter: :odyssey: Tri-Hot 5K Triple Wide 35”

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
I take back what I said earlier, about my choice just being hybrids. As I said I was still searching for a 15*-16* hybrid but after trying the 15.5* Ping G10 at the range along with some other fairway woods and hybrids, it was a hands down choice on trajectory, feel and distance and would give me the distance i need on the fairway. Also with it I already have a strong back-up for my driver on those narrow par 4's.

Of course am still keeping my hybrids- 'nuff said.

ISLAND PAR

In my Mizuno Bag:
TBD, MacGregor 4W(16*), 3H(20*),4H(23*), 5H(26*) Mizuno MX-900 6-PWAdams Watson 2010 Wedges (GW, SW, LW),Ping Wolverine Putter "But I thought you meant these golfers from our club when you said you needed SANDBAGGERS to help with the flood...


Posted
I'm looking to get a new 3-wood since I didn't like my previous Top Flit HCT Tour 3 wood with steel shaft. I'm looking to spend less than $80 (so used is in the picture for me). Does anyone have an opinion on the Macgregor NVG 3 wood? It's low priced, graphite shafted, and low in price these days. I tried the Cobra woods and I didn't like the hits with it.

I can't say enough good things about the MacTec fairway woods and hybrids. Same technology as the Exotics in addition to being just as long and more forgiving IMO. Better stock shaft too! Price? They are an absolute steal right now! Try one. You won't regret it.


  • 2 years later...
Posted
Wood for distance and hybrid for better control, but if you can rely on wood, you can't get distance either.
I ordered 1H and will find out if this will replace my 3W.

Driver: Big Bertha 460, (9° Steel) | Wood: X Fairway 3W (15° Steel) | Hybrid: X 3H (21° Steel) |
Irons: 4-PW, MP-52 (TT DG S300) | Wedges: X-Forged Chrome 52°/13, 56°/15, 60°/10 (TT DG S300) |
Putter: Ping Karsten Anser


Posted
I have a 17* 904f that I had the shaft cut down to a 2h length. Its the best of both worlds IMO.

:callaway: BB Alpha 815 DBD 10.5* Rogue Silver 60 :callaway: x2hot 3deep 14.5* (TBD) :tmade: RSI UDI 20* RIP Tour 90 :bridgestone: J40CB 4-PW Steelfiber i95 :vokey: SM4 50* KBS Tour V :vokey: SM5 54* KBS 610 :vokey: SM5 58* KBS HI-REV 2.0 MannKrafted Handmade Custom


Posted
depends on the course if you need a lower shot hit a 3 wood if you can get away with high launch then 1H the course can be the deciding factor

Posted
I'd carry a 1 hybrid over a 3 wood, and I probably will make that switch eventually. My 3 wood sucks anyway, and I really only like using it off the tee (way inconsistent off the deck - an issue I'd never had with a 3 wood before).

Current Gear Setup: Driver: TM R9 460, 9.5, Stiff - 3W: TM R9, 15, stiff - Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro Black, 18, stiff - Irons: Callaway X Forged 09, 3-PW, PX 5.5 - SW: Callaway X Series Jaws, 54.14 - LW: Callaway X Series Jaws, 60.12 - Putter: PING Redwood Anser, 33in.


Posted
put the 3 wood is easier to hit a cut with if you need that shot my three wood is the only club i can hit a cut with in the bag maybe because its a Lite flex and my other clubs are Regular flex

Posted
...Is it crazy to go from a driver to a 17 degree club?...

You might consider going to a 4W for your metal wood. Golf Digest had an article a couple years back which said 4W was easier for most golfers to hit than a 3W. | 4W with 16* or 17* loft is hittable, and it has some distance. Back in the days of persimmon woods, the 4W was my favorite long club.

Focus, connect and follow through!

  • Completed KBS Education Seminar (online, 2015)
  • GolfWorks Clubmaking AcademyFitting, Assembly & Repair School (2012)

Driver:  :touredge: EXS 10.5°, weights neutral   ||  FWs:  :callaway: Rogue 4W + 7W
Hybrid:  :callaway: Big Bertha B16 OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  :callaway: Mavrik MAX 5i-PW
Wedges:  :callaway: MD3: 48°, 54°... MD4: 58° ||  Putter:  image.png.0d90925b4c768ce7c125b16f98313e0d.png Inertial NM SL-583F, 34"  
Ball:  :srixon: QStar Tour - Divide  ||  Bag: :sunmountain: Three 5 stand bag

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Posted
learning how to hit a 3-wood is a difficult but very large leap in everyones game... i think its much more beneficial to get the 3-wood and learn how to hit

Posted
learning how to hit a 3-wood is a difficult but very large leap in everyones game... i think its much more beneficial to get the 3-wood and learn how to hit

3 wood is sweet when it works....hybrid is probably versatile and easier on any lie. So this is not easy answer.

Driver: Big Bertha 460, (9° Steel) | Wood: X Fairway 3W (15° Steel) | Hybrid: X 3H (21° Steel) |
Irons: 4-PW, MP-52 (TT DG S300) | Wedges: X-Forged Chrome 52°/13, 56°/15, 60°/10 (TT DG S300) |
Putter: Ping Karsten Anser


Note: This thread is 5920 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    Carl's Place
    PlayBetter
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FitForGolf
    FlightScope Mevo

    Coupon Codes (save 10-20%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack/FitForGolf, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope. 15% off TourStriker (no code).
  • Posts

    • I work with a lot of golfers who want more shaft lean at impact, who currently have AoAs that range from +2° to -2°, and who love to see the handle lower and more "in front of their trail thigh" from face-on at P6. And a lot of these golfers try to solve the issue by working on the downswing. They do something to drag the handle forward. Or they just leave their right thigh farther back so the same handle location "looks" farther forward. Or they move the ball back in their stance. Or they push themselves down into the ground to get the handle lower and increase (decrease?) their AoA (to be more negative). The real fix is often to get wider in the backswing. To do LESS in the backswing. To hinge less, fold the trail arm less, abduct the trail arm less. I had a case of this over the weekend. Before, the player had 110° of trail elbow bend, "lifted" his trail humerus only a few degrees, etc. The club traveled quite a bit around him, and he tended to "pick" the ball from the fairways. In the "after" swings below (which are mild exaggerations — this golfer does not need to end up at < 70° of elbow bend. These were slower backswings with "hit it as hard as you normally would" intent downswings), you can see that he bent his elbow about 70° instead of 110° and lifted his right arm an extra ~15° or more. You can't see how much less this moved his hands across his chest (right arm abduction), but it was also decreased. His hands stayed more "in front of" his right shoulder rather than traveling "beside" them so much. The two swings look like this: The change at P6, without talking about the downswing one little bit (outside of him telling me that he tends to pick the ball), is remarkable: Without 110° of elbow bend to get out (which he gets to 80°, a loss of 30°), the golfer actually loses slightly less elbow bend (70 - 50 = 20), but delivers 30° less elbow bend, lowering the handle and letting the elbow get "in front of" the rib cage… because it never got "behind" or "beside" the rib cage. If you look at this video showing the before/afters of P6, you'll note the handle location (both vertically and horizontally) and the shoulders (the ball is in the same place in these frames). This golfer's path was largely unaffected (still pretty straight into the ball, < 3° path and often < 1.5°), but his AoA jumped to -5° ± 2°. I've always said, and in talking with other instructors they agree and feel similarly, that we spend a lot of time working on the backswing. This is another example of why.
    • We had a member of our senior club who developed a mental block on pulling the trigger. I played with him to see what the membership was talking about. I timed him a few times when he would get over the ball. 45 seconds. He knew he had a mental block and would chide himself, “Just hit it!” Once on the green he was okay and chipping was a bit better. It was painful to watch him struggle. Our “bandaid” was to put him in the last tournament  tee time with two understanding players. We should have suggested to him to take a break from our tournaments. I agree with the idea that when a player realizes they have a problem, the answer is to go fix it and not return until they are able to play at an acceptable pace.
    • Day 56 (4 May 26) - Worked on some ball-then-ground drills - going from P3 thru impact - with a slowed tempo, working to keep all parts in sync.   
    • Wordle 1,780 3/6 🟩⬜🟨🟨🟨 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
    • Wordle 1,780 4/6 🟨⬜⬜⬜🟨 ⬜🟨🟨🟨⬜ 🟩🟨🟩🟨⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.