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Posted

I'm lacking distance on my irons because i don't hit down on the ball. When I play I'll put a tee in the ground next to the ball and I find the divot starts behind or is even with the ball. I hit the ball straight, but I am always short of the target and constantly chipping on. how can I practice getting the ball first so the divot is out front. If I consciously try to hit down when I'm playing, I tend to chunk the shots. I went to have the clubs checked at a pro shop and was hitting off the mat. I would get 150-155 out of the 7 iron. At the course off grass  get maybe 145. I know the grass and the mat are 2 different animals when it comes to distance.


Posted
Sounds like you need to work on Key 2. Also, it sounds like you need to adjust what you think your yardages are. I don't hit off mats unless it's the only option.

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Posted

@fiveover

Try moving the ball position forward and sweep the ball, meaning very small divot, nothing more than clipping the top of the grass.

Sometimes often referred to as picking the ball.

A good drill - place three tees in front of the ball spacing them about an inch apart and have them an inch above ground.

A good swing will make contact through the ball and hit all three tees, without digging the tees out of the ground.

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Posted

For me the key is to get your weight forward as much as possible.  It's almost impossible to hit a crisp shot with a divot in front of the ball if you have much weight on your back leg at all at impact.

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Posted

I've been playing golf for four years and it wasn't until this year that I can hit down on the ball. I don't take divots. I just brush the grass in front of the ball, but surprisingly that's enough to get solid shots.

For me, the key to hitting down is a good weight transfer to the front leg.


Posted

Hit more club say a 6 iron or get a 26 degree hybrid and the right shaft. It sounds like your casting the club and chunking it or hitting an overly high straight shot of a tee on par 3's or leaving the clubface wide open on mat's and the grass. Distance is face angle,loft and clubhead speed being the main factor in carry distance.Hitting down on a neat lie and a pro v 1 will cause a lower ball flight that shoots with more spin and good distance. That's why hitting down is for spin and ball flight control primarily! You sound like you need a lesson on some of the basic fundamentals such as ball placement alignment,grip the whole nine yards. I wouldn't worry about pro techniques with an amateur swing just work on getting more consistent and taking a little turf with say your sw on 80 yard shots and go from there ok :-)


  • Moderator
Posted

I'm lacking distance on my irons because i don't hit down on the ball. When I play I'll put a tee in the ground next to the ball and I find the divot starts behind or is even with the ball. I hit the ball straight, but I am always short of the target and constantly chipping on. how can I practice getting the ball first so the divot is out front. If I consciously try to hit down when I'm playing, I tend to chunk the shots. I went to have the clubs checked at a pro shop and was hitting off the mat. I would get 150-155 out of the 7 iron. At the course off grass  get maybe 145. I know the grass and the mat are 2 different animals when it comes to distance.

The problem is probably more that you do something (on the backswing or downswing) that causes you to pull the arms apart coming into impact to avoid hitting it fat, "chicken wing".

This would be a good drill to work on.

Mike McLoughlin

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Posted
Where in Erie Pa was that video made? :-) I hear Erik is teaching at Chautauqua GC. I've played there many times. I was with a guy who sculled an iron, skipped it off the pond and into the hole for a hole-in-one on #7 (I believe). It was a 150 yard par 3 over water. That was probably 40 years ago.

Driver.......Ping K15 9.5* stiff 3 wood.....Ping K15 16* stiff 5 wood.....Ping K15 19* stiff 4 Hybrid...Cleveland Gliderail 23* stiff 5 - PW......Pinhawk SL GW...........Tommy Armour 52* SW...........Tommy Armour 56* LW...........Tommy Armour 60* FW...........Diamond Tour 68* Putter.......Golfsmith Dyna Mite Ball..........Volvik Vista iV Green Bag..........Bennington Quiet Organizer Shoes.... ..Crocs


Posted

Anybody have any tips or drills for swinging "down" on the ball.  I have a tendency to subconsciously try and lift the ball, and as a result i hit a very high ball or hit it thin a lot and have no distance.  I know i need to drive through the ball or hit down on it and i am probably flipping it up.  Anybody have a good drill to work on this?

Thanks


Posted

Anybody have any tips or drills for swinging "down" on the ball.  I have a tendency to subconsciously try and lift the ball, and as a result i hit a very high ball or hit it thin a lot and have no distance.  I know i need to drive through the ball or hit down on it and i am probably flipping it up.  Anybody have a good drill to work on this?

Get your weight forward at impact.

Keep your head steady.

Get your left wrist inline with the clubhead and your shoulder at impact.

As for which one you need to work on. I would start a My Swing thread and post a video.

http://thesandtrap.com/f/4180/member-swings

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
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Posted
I know i need to drive through the ball or hit down on it and i am probably flipping it up.  Anybody have a good drill to work on this?

Thanks

One tip you might try, when practicing, is to concentrate on a spot about a inch in front of the ball and swing to that spot, not thinking about the ball. This could help you hold release just a bit longer and stop any flipping the wrists.

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Posted

One tip you might try, when practicing, is to concentrate on a spot about a inch in front of the ball and swing to that spot, not thinking about the ball. This could help you hold release just a bit longer and stop any flipping the wrists.

thats a great suggestion thank you i will try that


  • Moderator
Posted

thats a great suggestion thank you i will try that

Moved your posts to this thread. Check this out.

http://thesandtrap.com/t/84590/hit-down-on-the-ball#post_1203842

Mike McLoughlin

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Note: This thread is 3758 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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